Zeerari

Progress! Did you ground that green/blue wire that was going to the 8 pin connector? In case you don't have these already, they helped me a lot during my 82 swap: http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html

Looks like that's the connector to the fuel pump control modulator so I don't think it would cause the problems you're seeing... I don't have one either. Saw some good diagnostic procedures in the manual you might want to try since we all know it's something simple

Lol, I certainly can't leave a crying baby on the internet. I'll take a look at my diagrams when I get home. I'm fairly certain I have that T connector just dangling. If you haven't already done it I would turn the key on and back probe the ECU connectors to make sure you're getting power to the pins that are supposed to have power... use a ground on the connector instead of a body ground just in case you have a bad ground to the harness. You might first want to do a quick probe of the EFI relay connector to make sure it's giving the harness power when the key is turned on.

Terrorizing Reid Hall... I like it

The fuel relay is from the 82 so you should have this in your donor car. If you can't find it, you can tap into the blue/red to fire your own generic relay for the fuel pump. You do need to at least find the connector on the other end of the fuel pump relay harness because there's a black/white wire that has to be run to key switched 12V for the EFI relay to turn on (seen on the left side of the last pic of post #35).

i need an icon for "this thread is useless without videos"

Could be from an oilpan replacement. Does the oil not go through the filter before going out to the turbo? I've never looked at it that closely. Sorry man

Just hold out a bit longer... s130's are likely to start flocking to the junkyards as soon as Obama signs this cash for clunkers bill into law

Hmm, I wonder how thoroughly the alignment tech was "testing" your car Oh well, component failure is just a reason to upgrade!

Booooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooost! Ya gotta love that whistle What's your exhaust plan? Do yourself a favor and leave the muffler on the shelf... 2.5" straight sounds amazing.

Yeah, I just got done doing this and it worked! I turned my MIG way down and ran a couple passes to build up the area where the door first hits then ground the top and face flush. Works surprisingly well. I put more on than I expected to... probably added 3/16" on the driver side! Only added about 1/8" on the passenger side and it works but has a very slight rattle so I need to either add more or replace the weatherstripping.

Here's my "temporary" setup. I turned the AFM upside down and ran a couple bolts through the inner fender that attach to the rubber isolators of the AFM. Ugly, but works. The filter and flex duct are from autozone and I just zip tied the filter to the hood torsion bars. Still in place after 1000 miles and probably will be till I add an intercooler

Any long term results on this? Both my doors are now rattling badly and I like cheap fixes (if they work)

I was able to bolt my BW T5 right in to my early 260z using the curved auto tranny xmember from my 82 280zxt parts car. Even used the same bolts. Fishing it in there with the engine already in place was tricky but I made it happen. I used a brand new 240z tranny mount I got from MSA. I didn't notice the mount orientation so I can't tell you if it's rotated or not but I can get some pics this weekend if that would help solve this mystery.

Aww shucks, I missed the bushing party! I haven't driven mine in weeks due to it requiring a tranny fluid IV thanks to the leaky rear seal but I just bought a house with a 1500 sq ft shop so now it's awn like donkey kong

Bumble Zee: Thanks! Tim: You might want to start a new thread in the turbo forum since you are apparently dealing with some custom wiring. You'll get more visibility that way. Did you make any progress?

From my 82 280zxt auto parts car.

Some folks say you should shorten it but I used the r200 and unmodified driveshaft from the automatic car with my T5 and I still have about 1/2" compression before it bottoms out. No problems yet and I've been hammering it. Seems like a waste to go to the driveline shop unless you're having a new shaft made with 1310 joints or something

I paid $550 for a whole auto 280zxt that was supposedly an abandoned s30 swap project. Turned out it runs like a top and I don't regret it a bit but holding out for a manual car would've saved me the $150 I spent on a T5, the $210 I spent on a flywheel/clutch combo, and the $75 I spent on a manual ECU.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99620&page=2 Click the link above and the third picture from the bottom shows the connector you are asking about. I mention what they are for in the description above the picture. I did go ahead and ground the green/blue wire and I suggest you do as well. My car is actually tearing up the road now so I will be doing a full write-up as soon as I catch a sunny day to take some pics so that might help you as well. Looks like you're close!

I'd have to make $100 a set to make it worth my time and I doubt folks are willing to spend $300 on 280zxt axle adapters since MM sells some for $225 and even at that price other axle options start to look good. If there was enough interest then maybe Ross at MM could make something like this since it appears this is essentially what his adapters are just with the companion flange bolted on instead of welded. The welded solution avoids one potential failure point (the 4 bolts) but in my opinion it's not worth having to deal with that axle nut and sending the flanges through customs. No binding as far as I can tell. I have the axles just as they were pulled out of the zx.

I decided to take the easy but more expensive route and have some adapters made. These are fully bolt-on so no fussing with the annoying axle nuts! $200 at my local machine shop... well spent, in my opinion! Drawing is attached. I rotated the holes 18 degrees for optimum spacing. This gives about 3x the metal between the two holes that are very close together. Don't worry, it looks funny but it's all still balanced. I used M8x1.25 socket head cap screws and lock washers on the CV side and special M10x1.5 x 15mm GM torque converter bolts from the Help! section at O'reilly on the wheel side. They were the only bolts I could find that could fit into the companion flange. These worked in a pinch but a stud would be better because it could thread deeper and still allow everything to go together. Oh well, it still works and I haven't exactly been nice to this thing since I added boooost Datsun S30 turbo CV axle adapter Rev B.pdf

It was a bit tight but I got it in there without any elfin magic. To be honest, I got this tranny for a cheap way to get the car going and if I start having to spend more money on it I'll probably move to a z32 or 240sx tranny.

I'm currently using the auto driveshaft and it has slightly less than 1/2" before bottoming out. The only issue I have thus far is it leaks pretty badly even with a brand new proper SKF seal with the big metal collar. I did notice a groove in the slip joint part that looked like it was caused by the seal in the auto tranny so with my luck it falls right on the new seal. I suppose under hard acceleration the engine does shift toward the rear somewhat but surely there's not enough movement to eat up 1/2" of shaft?