Zeerari

Keep dreaming! I just got my first tank mpg... 22.2 mpg! Amazing with all the sideways driving I've been doing I only got 16-17 mpg with the carb'd 2.4 driving somewhat reasonably. As icing on the cake, gas is almost down to a buck fiddy

Speaking of the Valeo flywheel, here is the clutch and flywheel I got from them. As you can sort of see, there are no lightening holes, it's a solid flywheel. Also note there are holes in the clutch basket for 9 bolts but only 6 holes in the flywheel. Working great so far. For those of you swapping from an auto, the spacer in my hand is what you have to remove from the crank before mounting the flywheel.

Sounds mean! I had a Magnaflow stock style muffler put on and it sounds like a V6 Camry Needless to say, there will be some sawzall action tonight! It sounded so amazing with the open downpipe... like a ferrari and a jet engine had babies. Revs fall off kinda slow so shifting is weird (T5 doesn't help either) but to at least prove mine now drives too: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZRK_0b4eVqE No tach so I'm shifting early. Will do a better run after I get my tach and boost gauges online. I know this engine supposedly only has 30 hp more but it really feels like a different car now.

I don't get up to NWA often any more but last time I had no problem finding my top speed a couple times on 540... "floaty" is the word MikeZCar is also in LR and is "almost done" with his turbo tom setup with a suck through carb and alcohol injection. It's starting to sound like we need to invite the Fast n Furious 4 crew to Arkansas to do some S30 action shots to go along with the S30 stills they already got in Cali

Oooh, xmas came early this year! Megasquirt will be nice... I already hate this dorky AFM thing adorning my engine bay. Feels much more crowded now with turbo/EFI stuff but the whistle is worth it... click sig link for motivation Get cracking already... we need to go turn 540 into the Wangan

I have posted some updated pictures to that thread showing an 82/83 harness and exactly which wires you need and what they go to. It's at the bottom of page 2 (last post on the thread)

http://alteredz.com/240ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm I think I just read every post in the drivetrain forum and I only found a couple references to binding issues when using the whole 280zxt setup including the companion flanges. Can this swap really work? I have an 83 turbo parts car and I'm trying to get my 74 back on the road without investing much money into the drivetrain. I know the early 260z stubs are weaker and the 280zxt shafts aren't ideal either but I have them so that is why I am considering the swap above. I want to find a beefier LSD setup later so for now I really don't want to pump money into something I will upgrade in 6 months anyway. Long story short... my car sits pretty high compared to most so am I less likely to have CV binding? I can always just try it but if I'm completely wasting my time then I might not bother. Whatcha think?

Just came across this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=88453 240mm and 6 bolts seems to be normal, even from nissan.

I didn't think to measure before I bolted it up so I can't confirm but I found the same clutch at this site: http://www.dial-a-clutch.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=18582 And it says the OD is 9 7/16", which is right at 240mm. The flywheel has 6 holes but as I recall the pressure plate had several holes I didn't use.

Good tip! Should I just drive it in until it bottoms out? I just drove it in with a socket until it cleared the bevel so it's only 3/32" or so past the end of the crank. It appears this is far enough to avoid the big part of the input shaft running into it but it's certainly no big deal to drive it in further if somebody has experience otherwise.

Well, I got it today and as reported by others the flywheel is plain jane, not lightened as the auction pic would have you believe. Otherwise ok except the pilot bushing is cracked into 4 pieces. Autozone stocks these for about $4 so that's ok. One question. This is the first new flywheel I've ever bought and the surface is all on one plane with a slightly coarse texture. Do I have to have it decked even though it's new? All the used ones I've seen looked more like a brake rotor... kinds smooth and shiny.

Wow, I know little things add up but that's more than I'll have in my entire swap I guess I need to look into it further because my mental list was not nearly that painful. Good luck with the swap and hopefully I'll have a first-fire video to show off by Sunday

Another Arkie l28et swap, yeah! I just glanced at the service manual and it says the turbo dizzy outputs 1 pulse per degree and has a TDC detection circuit so it sounds like you are attempting the impossible short of building a custom circuit to multiply the pulses AND somehow detect TDC (crank sensor). Certainly possible and would be a good design project but even my EE brain says it would be easier to build Megasquirt You can get $150 on ebay for your harness and ECU (and maybe something for the 260z dizzy and controller?) and that about covers the cost of the MS2 kit. You'd still need a few more items (speaking from no experience here) but I think that'd be a better investment than a zxt dizzy. I'm planning to head that direction soon after I get mine done (maybe this weekend, yippee!) since it's supposedly good for 50 hp right out of the box For what it's worth, just saw this on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-280ZX-81-83-DISTRIBUTOR-TURBO-IGNITION_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a552Q7c39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem160278964903QQitemZ160278964903

Hey guys, I'm in the middle of my 82 turbo swap so I will try my best to fill in the blanks for those of you using an 82/83 harness. Most of the info above applies so I won't rewrite everything (though I might do a complete write-up on my website... stay tuned). First off, this harness has no dropping resistors so ignore that plug mentioned above. Second, here is a shot of the 8-pin (not 6-pin like the 81 harness) plug that connects the ignition harness to the ECU harness. We will only be using 3 of these 7 (8th pin is empty) wires. They are: Black -> ground Yellow -> Ignition switch (see Jon's diagram above) Yellow/White -> Coil (do not cut! this is the horizontal yellow wire you can see heading into the harness) Next we have the coil end of the ignition harness. This is up near the driver side headlight. From left to right we have: Green/Black and Black twisted -> Headlight washer (not used) Blue/White, Green, Black -> Boost sensor 3-pin connector (not used) Black/White -> Condenser on coil bracket Blue -> To coil (will feed your tach, more on that later) Yellow/White and Black/White -> Coil 2-pin connector (this is the yellow/white leading to the 8-pin connector) And here is a wide shot showing the whole ignition harness after removal. As previously mentioned, the long yellow wire at the top (next to green/blue wire on the plug) goes to START 12V, the black wire (you can cut off that shield and gray jacket) goes to ground, the green wire coming out of the resistor goes to your tach, and the black/white wire goes to switched 12V. The wires that are cut short and twisted together will not be used. I am going to pull the harness apart and remove these instead of leaving a bunch of cut wires everywhere. NOTE: A keen eye will notice there are 2 black/white wires going in on the left but only one coming out on the right. They are spliced inside the harness! Amazing, I know. Ok, enough of the spark, let's move to fuel! Here is the fuel pump relay harness still installed in the vehicle. The 6-pin connector plugs into the ECU harness and this relay simply turns the fuel pump on and off. We will be using all the wires on the relay socket but not the yellow or white wires on the harness connector. See next pic for clarification on this. Here is the fuel pump harness removed from the car. From left to right: Connector: Yellow and white wires -> unused as already mentioned Black/white -> switched power (this turns on your EFI relay) Relay: Green -> To fuel pump White/black -> Constant 12V Black -> Ground I have a few more pics that I'll stick in a gallery but I think this should cover it. I can't tell you exactly where to find these plugs since my car already had the dash ripped out but consider yourself sufficiently spoon fed Also, I haven't even done the swap yet so I reserve the right to be wrong! Please correct me if you think something is out of place. I'm planning to have this fired up by next weekend so we'll know for sure by then Can anybody confirm or deny whether the green/blue wire on the 8-pin plug must be grounded? It's supposedly for the inhibitor but I don't exactly know what that means. I see it leading to an ECU pin in the wiring diagram but that's all I can see. I guess if you're reading this, go ahead and ground that too... shouldn't hurt anything. I'll update the write-up if we get confirmation.

I just picked up one of these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=190244484169 Looks like Valeo lightened it already! Can take closer pics when it arrives if anybody wants to see them.