Oddmanout84

Don't be scared, its easy. Just a few bolts then unplug the three connectors for the loom. Removing the steering wheel from the column makes it a lot easier too...

Ok, so this is just another Speedhut install, nothing special compared to the previous ones. I'd like to put out a huge thanks to KTM and Ezzzzzzz (correct # of z's?), the installs they documented were what I used to get mine in. Yes, I got the blue reverse glow with the red pointer just like everyone else, but its the only color combo I really liked. I'm still not *technically* done yet, the daisy chain wires supplied were too short for me to use gauges in my A pillar, so I temp relocated them to my radio slot which doesn't work anyway. I still have yet to calibrate the speedometer and fuel gauges. I'm not exactly sure at the polarity of the 240sx speed sensor I'm using, even with the wiring diagrams from all years of the FSMs. It has a black and a green wire, but the only indication which I'm not even sure of is a + sign on the plug where the black wire goes in and a - sign where the green is... weird. I hate it when manufacturers make ground wires anything but black. I'll have to do some further testing. The fuel gauge I'm not entirely sure of, as the speedhut gauge comes with a signal and ground wire, but it doesn't look like the stock gauge had a ground wire going to the sender so I only connected the new signal wire (as per speedhut instructions).

gmac708, that's one nice setup you got there. Where did you get the SS -8 fuel lines? I've been searching summit and so far I've only seen 3/8 at the largest for stainless. Oh yes, I've seen videos of the noise it makes. I have several ideas for rubber isolators that will hopefully reduce the noise somewhat. That pump is huge too, much bigger than I thought it was going to be. I guess I wasn't clear with my questions, but my main concerns were that the pump (being much larger and more powerful) was going to be strained trying to push a greater amount of fuel through the stock-sized lines and possibly burn itself out. I definitely know now that I will be waiting until I have the rest of my setup before the pump itself is installed, though. The -8 barb fittings are simply way too large to fit the stock lines, and I'm afraid that I'll make a fiery mess of myself if I try to cheat and get one-size-up EFI line from the local store and try to slip it over my stock hard lines. That said, I'm not terribly worried about my stock EFI soft lines bursting, I replaced them less than a year ago.

Thanks, guys. I appreciate the clarification, Pallnet. I was under the impression that NO orders would be received. Gimme a week or so and I may order one. I had been talking with someone else about purchasing his fuel rail with supra injectors but I don't really like the idea of cutting/swapping my current connectors on my haltech harness because they're very new and in good working order. I would rather use Rx7 type injectors.

Well, recently I began to have (what seemed to be) fuel starvation issues on my L28ET. The engine one day about three weeks ago just decided it couldn't hold idle, and then wouldn't start at all. The fuel pump was louder with the key in the IGN position, no pressure at the rail. Then the next day, I got fuel pressure at the rail, but a loud whine from the (stock) pressure regulator, and fuel began to leak from both the regulator fittings and at the fuel filter. So, both were removed, and the tank was dropped. Brown fuel came out of the return line. So with the tank pulled I remembered I had a POR-15 sealer kit from over a year ago. The damage wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, only a couple tiny patches of rust in the tank. I treated the tank, and the liner is setting up inside as I type, and should be ready for fuel by Thursday. I also have the stock 280z pump out. Surprisingly, its lasted 30 years, and even ran the turbo motor without a single leaning issue (mostly stock zxT setup, 10-13lbs max). I was hoping the little thimble strainer in the inlet side would tell me a story, but I didn't find much debris. That and I completely destroyed it trying to pull it out, as carefully as I may have tried. I'm willing to bet the pump is still good for a little while longer, but I still ordered a replacement. On its way to my door is an Aeromotive A1000, A1000-6 FPR, 2 Summit -8 steel mesh filters (40 and 100 micron) and the associated AN barb fittings to connect it all to my current plumbing. Now, I had planned to replace all the lines with -8 feed and -6 return, as well as replacing the associated hard lines under the chassis with matching sized lines. Unfortunately, all that stainless braided line and the fuel cell I had planned will have to wait at least a month due to budget concerns. The current EFI hose and hard lines *seem* to be of comparable size, so I was going to try hooking the new setup to them and see if the car will run. So basically what I'm asking is am I about to do anything stupid. Yes, because I am dumb I fell for the shiny Aeromotive and bought a pump (purportedly) capable of supporting a 1000hp car when I myself never plan to go beyond 350-400. I'm running stock 280zxT injectors currently, but plan to replace them with larger ones sometime soon. The new pump is going to be mounted in the stock location as low as possible, with the 100 micron filter between it and the tank, and the 40 micron before the fuel rail. Am I out of my mind to think that I should try running it before I replace the lines with stainless? I don't have the little Aeromotive fuel pump speed control so I know its going to run balls to the wall whenever the car is on. If someone knows that I'm going to overheat and cavitate the new pump on my stock '78 280z lines, please let me know. I know Big_Phil used to run one on his beast, and it looked like he was running similar to stock lines in the video but I wasn't sure. Yes, I have been lurking on this subject for weeks in the forum, but because I didn't find everything, it makes me wonder. If anyone has any useful info to put my mind at ease (or otherwise), thanks in advance. If I'm asking a stupid question to which the answer is right in front of my face or buried under 10 years of posts, please let me know. I'm still learning... -Chris

Check the orientation of that in-line valve that comes with the BOV. Shaped like a disc. It only goes one way.

Nice. I bet that HKS surge tank was hard to find...

Well, I have a JSK fuel rail for my L28ET at the moment, but its for barb style injectors and is running the stock injectors. I've been wanting a Pallnet fuel rail for quite some time, and now I'm finally getting around to revamp my fuel system. Unfortunately it seems he's in a bind with the Toyota crisis and won't be accepting any orders for now.. What I'd be looking for is a -8 or -10 center bore for (preferably) 11mm o ring injectors. I could work with a 14mm as I haven't fully decided on what injectors I'm running, only that I'd like them to be ~440cc. If anyone has a working used one or just one they're not using anymore, please let me know. Thanks, Chris

What did you use to cover the sender hold and filler hole? I just remembered I still have a POR tank sealer kit and it might save some money while I bide time for my fuel cell install.

As a former helicopter crewchief I will say that BOTH are possible. Any metal to metal contact, especially hydraulic or fuel lines that are either stainless or hardlines is a serious no-no. They will both destroy each other. Even rubber electrical wires will eat through aluminum over time in a high vibration area. Depending on location, steel braided line will destroy the metal it touches, and in case of it coming into contact with a "sharp" edge it will quickly be frayed and compromise its integrity. Make sure you buy those isolation mounts for all your hoses, and regularly check it to make sure the lines aren't rubbing on anything. Spots of contact can usually be seen pretty easily, as they will leave black marks (wear grease) where they touch.

Thanks Josephg for the writeup, and thanks Hoov for adding clarification on the sanctioned (right) way to install these. I've been considering doing the same thing to my Z, as the current tank has gotten pretty rusty and I don't know if the local rad shop will be able to fix it. That and I'm trying to replace all the soft lines with AN, so it should make sense. My only questions would be where to attach the grounding strap (one of the filler bolts?) to the body and how I'd build the sheet around the body of the cell where the outlet fuel feed fittings are. AN through bulkhead fittings? I'd be afraid that stress over time with any sort of chassis flex would cause the fittings to crack the plastic around where they enter the cell. Also, is there any regulation to the thickness of the sheet that is used to make the box? Edit: Also, has anyone heard anything about the internal safety foam that Summit/RCI uses in their fuel cells breaking down over time with pump gas (and the occasional fuel treatment i.e. STP injector cleaner)? I heard an interesting thing on another forum that some offroad racing guys like to use wiffle balls since they don't get eaten by the fuel.

I'm just waiting for my return. Already know about what ballpark its in, but my fuel system just took a dive. Not too happy about it. Hence I will be replacing quite a few things with it. Edit: Last month? Taxes have always been due by April 15th...

A new fuel pump and possibly a whole new fuel system and fuel cell.

I just saw this and my heart skipped a beat, that orange looks almost exactly like my car! Great job on that paint! I love an orange/matte black Z... Mine was my first paint job too, although my wetsanding wasn't nearly as successful. I couldn't get all the orange peel out without going through to primer. I'll be shooting it again within the next year once I do my sunroof delete, this time with a clearcoat. May also rent a booth next time so I can have better climate control, I think the weather got too cold when I shot my color. Keep up the good work!

Oh. My. God. I've been running the long ones in the back for over a year on my 280.... ._. The original factory springs were longer in back so I figured it was the same relation with the Eibach progressives... Edit: Just checked my springs, but mine are a different part #. Springs ending in 2 are in the back. Still, I remember from installation that they were the longer ones. Perhaps the 280z is different. All I know is that it seemed like the front dropped lower than the back did.

Contacted Haltech, no useful info. They told me to send in the ECU for a 175 AUD repair. Then out of frustration tonight I tried loading the programs again. This time, v6.34, which was the FIRST one I tried, which has NEVER worked before, which the ECU told me was OUTDATED... Instantly crossed into online mode. It works. Wtf. Gremlins...

Fairlady grill: Wasn't keen on the price either, which is why I was planning to take measurements and fab my own. I bought two pieces of aluminum mesh when I had my 3000GT years back but never used them. Good thing. I have a '73 roof that's *mostly* rust free (just a small patch mid windshield) that I'll be using. Even has a decent black headliner. We cut it at the bottom ends of each pillar, so I was considering welding it on at those points. Don't know if that idea is better than just welding it at the top of each on my existing pillars... um, hopefully that was clear enough. Compression check: 1. 140 (145 w/ 30w) 2. 148 3. 149 4. 148 5. 148 6. 149 Looks good enough to me. Tomorrow: burping the coolant again, this time with a better overflow tank installed.

You and me are in just about the same boat at the same time. Only mine doesn't shoot white smoke at any time beyond warmup, figured that's just condensation. Don't have an oil catch system either, but my cooling system is all out of whack. Check your radiator fluid level, start up the car with the cap off and watch it. Let it warm up a bit until the engine "burps". When I revved mine during this I got small bubbles, and unless my eyes were playing tricks on me some of the bubbles were oily. I'm PRAYING its not a BHG, but I'm expecting the worst... edit: BTW, I don't have the intercooler piping-oil issue that you have, but then again my turbo is freshly built. Rebuilding the turbo is easy as long as you're not dealing with a bent shaft or anything.

Oh, I will be. Boost gauge going right above the AFR, or in its place, along with the oil pressure all in the pillar cluster. The only reason the boost gauge is there now is because that's the only place it would fit, and it was better than nothing. Lol, the grill. That was just an experiment to see what a full grill would look like, all I did was bolt on the top and zip tie a smaller 280 grill to the bottom. Not sure if I like it, may be going with a mesh 432 type grill. That experiment has been going on for over 6 months, I've been too lazy to remove it. GOOD EYE. The whole reason I got the 240z hood from my friend is because of a little mishap. I was parked at my uncles house behind his van for a day. When he got up to go to work the next morning he forgot the car was there and backed straight into it. Crushed the hood, bent the grill, chipped the paint on both buckets and slightly bent them as well. He was pretty upset, and made himself half a day late to work just to help me bend and fix the hood to a somewhat more "straight" state. It still looked like ass but was fine until I got the new hood. I still have to repaint though... which is going to happen anyway. Those T-Tops need to go bye-bye. However, all this cosmetic crap is probably going to take a back seat to the possible BHG that I may have. Still running tests for diagnosis, but it doesn't look good. Car running hot at idle, bubbles in the radiator when revved, slightly OILY bubbles sometimes... #2 spark plug mysteriously clean... The only thing that doesn't fit is the lack of white smoke. Still have not figured out what the "mystery noise" is but it could be exhaust gasses being forced into the coolant/oil lines. Hard to see why I'd have a BHG. The car has not been pushed hard, I've used only premium fuel, and its always shown nearly full rich on the AFR while under load. Never heard a ping either...

An interesting question, since I can't see it in the pictures... Is that RB still fitted with a forward oil sump or does it already have a 200ZR/custom made rear sump pan in it? My god is that header a work of art, too bad you have to chop it for steering clearance. RHD conversion? heh heh.

Oh, and the car has a new hood, non-vented, lifted off of an early Z. Also installed the spare hinges I had kicking around, replacing my old bent ones. Now the entire thing is flush. Also, last shot of the dash before I take it out again and replace all the gauges. I'll do a little cleanup as well, and hopefully reattach the wheel well vinyl. Maybe I'll even get around to getting the stereo to work again, but its still hard to imagine cutting holes into the nice black door cards I have...

Awwww... ****.... I thought it was you, but I just made a post in another thread responding to you talking about being a Phrog crewchief. Now I feel like an idiot, lol. Its Colgan. I have you to thank for introducing me to this site, though I never bought that RB before I left Oki years ago. Wish I had but... I only had 2 weeks to get out of there after we got back. Anyway, after I got out I went back home and restored that Z I had told you about. Here's a link to the build so you know I wasn't bullshitting you: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/69221-new-z-project/ Decided to go the "easy and available" route since it was mostly just me in the garage teaching myself. Ended up using an L28ET with a Haltech E6K ECU. Its good to see that you're back, and to see that you now have a Z build going on. I'm interested to see the progress.

Small world. I was a 46 crewchief until '08 when I got out after 5 years. Most of my time was with HMM-262 in Okinawa, did my last year in 164 at Pendleton. I liked the Phrog too much to switch over to the Osprey and figured it was time to get back to school, which is where I am now. Semper Fi.

Not exactly sure how your climate control system works, but I know in my 280z I had the same problem for a while. Turns out I had a vacuum line off in my engine compartment between the heater and the solenoids. After I plugged it back in the heat flowed once more, and the vent switch worked. Can't give any advice for that black box of yours though...

Well if it were me in that case and I wanted to lose as much weight as possible, I'd just fab a lighter dash.