Oddmanout84

Oh, believe me. I tried. Did everything right too. From what it looks like, Haltech just doesn't like Serial-to-USB adapters. Having an old toughbook with serial ports and windows 98 SHOULD solve the problem as that's what the ECU and software are meant to interface with. If it doesn't, maybe the ECU itself is bad.

Go with whatever looks good on the car, don't feel restrained to stock colors. The Omaha orange I used for my Z is lighter and less red than the stock orange, and I like it better. Unless you're trying to do an all original restoration, who cares about stock colors. If you were going for stock, why would you be on HybridZ anyway?

Cue one BIIIIIIG copypasta. 02MAR10 New stuff. Nothing reeeealy exciting, except for me. Now all the power should (in theory) make it to the wheels. Fidanza 280zxt flywheel and 280zxt 240mm clutch from RPS. Guess I already posted the clutch image but here it is again for effect. I had removed my transmission (finally) last week only to find that the clutch would not fit my stock flywheel. Kind of a DUR moment, as I should have known the stock flywheel was for a 280z and only had a 225mm friction surface. Decided it would be stupid to just buy another stock model so I layed the green down for a Fidanza. Looks like it'll fit nicely. What amazes me most is now the clutch weighs more than my flywheel! Thank you, Flatblack280z, for that awesome post about flywheel and clutch fitment. I'm a bit worried how the rest of the engine will fare. I still have trouble cold starting it, and I'm afraid that less rotational mass will reduce the momentum to a degree that will make it even harder. Also seriously considering a better harmonic damper for the front of the crank to even things out. Hopefully the $90 model from MSA will do. Still in the mail are another mess of small parts and a few goodies. My clutch line is heavily dry rotted and I'm amazed it lasted this long. So I got a steel braided one. Will also be replacing the master and slave cylinders with this install as I'm anticipating the clutch being a bit heavier. The transmission is one filthy *****, and I can say with as much trouble as I had removing it I'm dreading putting it back in. Next time, I'll use a floor jack. Of course, I'll be cleaning and painting it before that happens. 03MAR10 I had a nice MSD 6A hooked up instead of the stock 280zxt spark controller which was wired into the Haltech harness. It wouldn't throw a spark because a setting needed to be changed. Couldn't find a laptop old enough to have the serial port required so I had to find a serial-to-usb adapter. Also didn't have a windows 95/98 disc, which the Haltech software was supposed to run on. So I went on the Haltech website and found a fix for running it on XP. Even their solution won't work. I tried every version of the software, all updates. Best result I had was it loading to 50% then konking out. Very frustrating. A little while ago I even considered buying a whole new E6X ECU (since it has the same pin connections), getting a base map for the engine and starting from scratch. And at least that ECU is new and meant to run on windows (E6K software is DOS based). Nope. Pin connections may be the same, but they are in a completely different order so I'd still have to make/buy a new harness. f**k. I'll figure it out eventually. Right now I'm trying to find an old ass laptop with a serial port and windows 95/98. If that doesn't work then I'll know its the ECU that's bad. But for now at least it runs the current setup, and does it well. Later... I have an old toughbook laptop on the way, and it comes loaded with features such as serial ports, 32MB RAM, floppy drive, 150mHz processor, 2GB hard drive and Windows 98. This machine is too leet for USB. I'm a bit furious. The transmission fill plug still refuses to come out. This is the second time I've battled with it, with no success. The previous owner rounded the hell out of it, but I don't blame him because making the grasping point a huge f**king 1/2" square is the stupidest idea ever. Last time I just removed the backup light switch and filled it from there. This time, I want everything done right so that little bastard is coming out. Blasting it with a propane torch and freezing it have no effect. Drain plug still comes out fine, because unlike its counterpart its made so you can just pop in a 1/2" drive breaker bar/wrench/anything. I think tomorrow I might just swallow my pride and take it to goddamn jiffy lube and let them have a go. The autozone here also doesn't carry Redline MT-90 which further pisses me off. Similar story with the flywheel. Pressing in the alignment dowels with my vice (as stated in the instructions) isn't working at all. Some guy on HBZ said he just lightly tapped them in with a hammer. I'd like to know what kind of magic he wields. Hammer or vice, they won't go in mine, and they certainly won't go straight either. Dowels are in the freezer now for the night, I might even cook the flywheel in the oven for a few minutes to see if that will work. Spending all this money lately is depressing. Once in a while though, I buy something ridiculous and shiny for the car where money could have better been spent on something more useful. Today's arrival was no exception. Bottom right is the useful stuff. Long needed fuel pump blockoff (the 280zxt version had a huge power steering pump mount that pressed against my intercooler piping), the stainless clutch line and an oil dipstick (out of picture) that now has a much better seal. But the top right is my favorite, the Fairlady Z emblem. I've been resisting it for a long time now, and the other day I finally gave in and added it to the cart. Its even better than I imagined. I was expecting a plastic thing like the similar "Datsun" one my car came with. No. This one is metal, and perfectly painted. I'd add in a "432" emblem which would complete the look of the car, but that would be just wrong. That should only go on the Z that carried the S20 engine. Now I know some of you may be saying "Well by your logic a FairladyZ emblem shouldn't be on your car either, cause its not RHD, hypocrite!" Sue me. You can put me in the same category as those tools who put Altezza labels on their IS300s. After putting so much into this car and altering its appearance to a more japanesy tone, I can't see it as a Datsun 280z anymore. To me it is a FairladyZ. And that emblem will be on my BRE spoiler where it belongs, until some bastard pries it off with a pocket knife and steals it. 04MAR10 Got the plug out today at a local transmission shop. We torched it, pipe wrenched it and put candle wax down the threads. Finally we removed it with a big breaker bar while simultaneously hitting it with an air hammer. Those guys were great, and they didn't even charge me for it. I'll have to drop off a case of beer or something for them some time. New plugs ordered from Nissan, should be here Saturday.

Hey, sorry for the mixup. I was away from HBZ for a while and came back to a whole new layout and am still getting used to it. I actually did respond to your question, it was just posted above the message you left on my profile. I was thinking at the time that I got them from either MSA or Blackdragon, but now that I've thought about it a little more I'm pretty sure it was Blackdragon. They fit great, supposing you have a stock car. The mudguards are NOT flat, they are hollow "3d" ABS plastic molded to fit the contours of the car. With flares, its a bit tighter. The only modifications I made to the rear ones was to scoop out a small portion on the left so my exhaust wouldn't touch it. The fronts will require a bit more trimming to fit under the flares, and I haven't gotten around to it myself. Again, I apologize for the mixup. I usually respond (correctly) to questions shortly after I get them. Edit: Actually, now that I look at MSA's pics, it could be either one. Both stores seem to carry the same set of ABS plastic mudguards.

I know how you feel. My friend had a flywheel come loose on him during an autocross event so he told me his method. I used my friend's drill press on the flywheel bolts, then got a pair of swipes and safety wired them together. It takes quite a while and usually several bits to do it right, the drilling. But I'd say its worth it. Feels good to have a pair of swipes in my hands again too.

Let us know how that OBX goes! I've been wary about reports of their spotty QA (washers backwards) but for $300 I'd still like to see what it can do.

Nice. So did you use their VSS speed sensor or one from a 240sx? Sorry about my interrogations, lol. I'm curious!

I have been looking to do this conversion for some time, almost a year. Thankfully I waited and they released the speedo with the integrated turn signal/highbeam indicators. Just need to fit it into the budget now... Thanks for providing the info on the thread sizes for the adapters. Now for my requests.. I've been going back and forth on color choices, more or less settling on cobalt blue reverse glow. Are yours cobalt or regular blue? I'm also curious about the analog AFR gauge as I had considered it for consistency. Also curious how the calibration process for the speedometer goes for you. The fuel gauge also seems simple enough, but I wonder if its worth trying to put their [speedhut's] sensor into our gas tanks. Working on helicopters with a similar system, I prefer it to the stock float based system that the Z has. Thanks for the writeup, and for any info you bring to light in the future!

Go to NAPA and ask them about heater ducting. I got two boxes of heater duct for pretty cheap, and it seems like better quality than the original. Have had no problems so far, and its been several months worth of use. Just bring a fitting or measure the inner diameter of the stock ducting so you can give them the proper size you need.

Not at liberty to explain, that was meant for the self proclaimed "/btards".... They should know the rules.

Rules 1 and 2.

It was a secret project If I ever get a video camera, I'll make something for youtube.

It goes like stink. For mostly a stock setup, its done nothing short of surprising me. This car sounds MEAN and really scoots. Still though, I'm being conservative since I can't tune the haltech (won't interface with my laptop), my O2 gauge (or sensor) is unresponsive, and I recently had a couple issues with a valve cover oil leak on the highway which caused a fair deal of smoke. Scared the bajesus out of me. Have a new gasket for it now. Headlight covers also installed, I'll get some pics later. The engine bay is also a mess, but I'm not tucking all the wires away until I iron out all electrical issues.

'82-83 Turbo L28ET motor Rebuilt, Blueprinted $$$(?) set of bearings Nismo piston rings stock head gasket rebuilt head stock turbo, rebuilt JSK fuel rail stock injectors stock 280z fuel pump HKS SSQV BOV 27x12x3 intercooler Aluminum radiator N42 Non-EGR intake manifold Haltech E6K comp OEM CAS integrated dizzy custom fabricated exhaust, beginning with MSA downpipe, terminating in HKS muffler Have an MSD 6A, but can't get it to work with the Haltech because for some reason it won't connect to the laptop. Also can't tune because of this... Thanks Chris, because if you didn't tune this engine before I got it (3 years later) I'd be completely dead in the water. Engine running Castrol Edge, because I'm thinkin' with my dipstick, Jimmy. Engine bay is a mess, but its a work in progress/testing. Unknown HP, Unknown torque. It may not be nearly as fast as the rest of the setups on here, but it sounds mean, feels fast, and it popped my turbo cherry!

Speedhut now offers speedometers with integrated turn signal and highbeam indicator LEDs! Its next on the list for me, the L28ET needs a better boost gauge and AFR gauge as well!

With the project growing closer to completion, I'm releasing some photos. Today was a big day for accomplishment, and I'm in a good mood. I've been working on this for a couple months now, so even though my project page has been almost devoid of updates, I haven't been idle. The exhaust I finished fabbing today is worlds better than the twice pipes I had hooked up to my original engine. Since I designed and welded it myself, I was able to put it exactly where I wanted it to be: as far away from the ground as possible. I don't think I could be happier with the clearance. Notice how you can't see much of anything in this picture... that's a good thing... As some may remember, my old exhaust hung below the frame rails and came very close to the ground as it passed under the differential. Not anymore. This is as good as it gets with a 3" pipe. Yes, I went function over form on this one. That is none other than a very large HKS fartcan. I decided that more flow was important, and it perfectly matches the 3" piping leading back to it. The HKS label is hidden due to me overdoing the clocking of the muffler when I welded. I actually kinda like it that way, for now. Maybe someday I'll cut it and reweld so I can show off the label. The motor came out of a 280z that was previously a track car that frequented Watkin's Glen and Limerock park. Mostly a stock rebuild was done to it, with Nismo piston rings and main/rod bearings that cost about $700 a set.... I wish I could remember the name of those... Other than that, stock rebuilt with about 4000 miles on the motor. A sweet find that my friend had sitting around in his garage. Stock 280zxT injectors, JSK fuel rail, stock 280z fuel pump, tiny intercooler, no BOV, and a stock Garrett turbo that hadn't seen a rebuild since the factory. Haltech E6K engine management system. Very basic, but somehow the guy was pushing 300hp and got a 1:12 lap time at Limerock, which is pretty impressive. I've made a few improvements, mostly small for now, the most basic being the repaint of the entire engine. My "signature" valve cover... I also drilled each flywheel bolt and tied them all together with lockwire. Just an added precaution. I did a real crummy job, but then again its been over a yaer since I've lockwired anything.... I used to be good at it. The engine bay is still a mess... I'll post pictures when its clean.

Been a long time since I updated. The only thing I can confirm is that this is an older picture, and MUCH more has been done to the car since. I'll make a REAL update when its finished!

No. I wouldn't go that way. The flares made for our S30Z cars are molded to form the curves of the car, something those generic flares would have to be modified to do so.

Bob Sharp himself is looking to get his hands on one of those valve covers for a car he's building now, as far as I remember. Check it out on ctzcc.com if you feel like giving to a worthy cause.

Get out of Commiefornia.

I have that same adapter flange for an external wastegate. It looks like its going to be a pain finding clearance when you bolt it to the exhaust manifold.

You sunk my battleship!!