Oddmanout84

Best bet/lowest cost is to bring it to somewhere like a radiator shop where they can chemically remove the rust inside and out, then braze or weld the leaks shut. Stock tanks are very hard to find in good condition at a low price, and a fuel cell will be a bit of a pain and also expensive to install (especially if you're taking it to a shop to do it)CORRECTLY.

You will have problems on this forum.

There were quite a few o-ring and barb fitting fuel rails on ebay recently, and they (and JSK and pallnet designs) pop up every so often. But as Bernardd said, you can make one yourself if you buy some stock and know someone who can bore it out.

I stuck with it at the time for the sound, the looks and the simplicity. For a first time motor swap and the similarity of the wiring, it seemed like the best choice. However I've since discovered other more modern motors that can more easily reach my power/reliability goals for less cash and modification. I'm sticking with my L6 for now simply because of the time/money invested, but am looking into other options for the future.

YES. Tony mentioned that to me before in another thread when I posted about my engine failing. I really, really wish now that I had known about how plausible a turbo KA24DE when I started this car. Especially that video of Subtledriver's $1500 KA build. I would definitely have gone KA instead had I known. Much cheaper, much better parts availability, highly economical. I could have been making a LOT more HP than I am now. It may not be a straight 6, but I'm certainly willing to compromise in this situation.

Basing the costs on what others screwed up? Hell no, I just added that little anecdote as an explanation as to why one would look for parts. Cost is based on the price of parts ONLY. Whether your bearings fail because of improper installation procedures or 30 years of oil deposits and grit doesn't matter. You still need a new set of bearings. Or another motor to run into the ground and hope for the best. THAT'S my point. We're also not just basing this on solely looking through an just an old book for parts. The book is merely an indication for how limited parts availability is NOW. If it was NLA then, it will be much harder if not impossible to find now. The demand for Datsun parts has hardly increased since then, so the market has most definitely shrunk. Those were most of the good parts, you can probably count the selection currently available on one hand.

Others might not. Its a personal problem for me. I just like to overdo things.

Na-Nu Na-Nu. Good bearings and piston rings are increasingly difficult to find, that's my main beef. Look through the "How to Modify your Datsun OHC" book as well; most of the pictures of aftermarket parts he shows are NLA. Things like better intake manifolds must be custom fabricated unless you want to go with the Lone Wolf intake, not everyone has that ability (I recently acquired a welder, but am not set up to do aluminium). I'm not saying its IMPOSSIBLE to find these items, just usually difficult and cost prohibitive. Kameari is a good example, most of their products make the RB25DET market look cheap. I think I know what you're trying to say though, that most motors don't need a rebuild and can be built without being cracked open. I can't do that. What happens when you DO need to crack it open? Lots of the L28s people find are in junkyard cars, or if they're lucky, a recently wrecked/well cared for donor. The L28ET I bought was kept wrapped up in a garage and had about 4000 miles on it, it crapped out in less than a year of light driving, crank destroyed. The stock L28 I swapped out of my 280z had thick grit and half of a 3M sanding disc in the oil pan. The other stock L28ET I picked up out of a car "never rebuilt" had gouged cylinder walls on 1 and 6 because of oil starvation. Basically what I'm trying to say is that its pretty hard for me to just take a 30+ year old motor at face value and start slapping on external power adders without any consideration to the internals. Unless I planned on beating the piss out of it until it died. I'd rather have knowledge that the motor is (at least) inspected and good to go, and if it needs new consumables I have ready access to them. With the L28 it seems to be increasingly difficult and expensive. The KA on the other hand is newer, a bit more efficient, and the aftermarket has actually grown within the last decade. This means plenty of parts are readily available and there is a larger price range to choose from. Its a much more economical option.

If you want my opinion, I'd almost say its down to preference. I have both an L28ET and a KA24DE. The L28 has cost me boku bucks not only in the initial cost (was lucky to find a full rebuild w/ tuned Haltech ECU) but in parts down the road. The guy who built it did *mostly* a good job but mixed up one bolt and a stackup which cost me ANOTHER rebuild. Its still in pieces, nickel and dimeing me. Aftermarket parts are harder to find and difficult to acquire at lower prices. I'm also slightly resentful about the research I've done on the forums about the P90 head being quite outdated compared to the more modern engines, and having those nasty detonation issues if you're not careful. For the modest power goals I have, I'd rather not use methanol. I'm already running pig rich in boost to control detonation. Not my ideal solution. The KA24DE I got for FREE. It was pulled out of an S14 because it was on its last legs, and nobody wanted it anymore. Teardown showed 2 spun rod bearings and major oiling issues because the pickup ingested pieces of timing chain guide. I've known of people that have gotten perfectly running engines for the same price, however. Many SR converts simply want to get rid of them. The KA24DE has around the same displacement as an L24, and makes more power. Longer stroke limits redline, as does the half-counterweighted crank. What you gain though is low end torque. If you were insane or just really well funded, theres a fully counterweighted crank from Brian Crower that also increases the stroke making a total 2.6L displacement. But that's not really needed. On these forums there's also a graph showing the flow characteristics of the KA24DE head. Both stock and ported KA's beat out the P90 by a fair margin. Most aftermarket parts for the KA are also lot cheaper and more readily available than the L series. Its not the same level of support as the SR or RB market, but its enough. Unless you fab up the mounts yourself, look forward to spending around $500 to get them from Mckinney. You can build both motors to insane levels of cost, depending on how and where you spend your money. Even after building my L28, I'm still going to consider building up the KA as a possible replacement. Both motors have their strengths and weaknesses. The most important question (in my mind) though is, do you really want to put a 4cyl in an engine bay meant for a 6?

I've been resisting the purchase of Forza 3 until I could make one of these and buy the Fanatec wheel/shifter/clutch combo. Looks like it'll be a while still...

I don't believe in the energizer bunny.

How is this thread still going....

Crazyoctopus has the right idea! Skip to 5:20 for rolling action. Here you go: That's how you should do it.

Why am I getting the sense of deja vu?

Digging up old dirt... Nearly a year later, I'm just about ready to put everything back together. Block has been machined and freshened up, I got a different crank, entire rotating assembly rebalanced. I also had ordered a new damper and bolt/washer around the time of Tim's post. Its the damper from MSA, along with the Nissan comp bolt/washer. That being said with it bottoming out on the crank snout too soon, is there any way to remedy this besides machining? Perhaps a very thin, circular, washer-esqe shim? I have not test fit the bolt yet to see if it indeed bottoms out too soon, but I'd hate to have it on there and replicate last year's debacle within the span of the next year.

http://www.jepistons.com/Articles/101124-Asymmetrical-Forged-Pistons.aspx I recently went out and got the latest issue of DSPORT at the local Borders and saw this ad for JE's new asymmetrical piston skirt design. I've never seen anything like it before, but I suppose it could be old news and I'm just discovering it myself. They offer several applications, but you can also order a custom set so theoretically they could be made to fit a Nissan L6/RB,KA, etc. I'm just wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this, because it seems interesting. JE claims that the design reduces mass as well as friction, sounds good (on paper).

Take it to the machine shop and have them resurface your oil pan gasket.

I guess this build is either dead, or you're on a really long deployment/hiatus...

Yes, they require some bending, and possibly some cutting. Yes, one side appears to be longer than the other, its up to your discretion on whether to trim it or not. Focus on lining up the top of the flare with the body line and the rear of the flare (the point that sits just above the rocker) first. Mounting them with tape and taking pictures to compare with other installations and taking a step back often to observe position helps a lot. Just be patient. Its better to take several days of trial and error fitting than to start cutting and messing them up permanently in a few hours.

Damn it! You beat me to it!

It will. The installation requires a little bit of plastic cutting but its Barney simple.

The only one I've been able to find that seems to be in stock anywhere is the Tomei MLS, but its also 90.5 bore. Thickness goes up to 1.5mm or 2.0mm depending on where you look. Then there's Kameari, which is either 86mm or 90.5mm bore, up to 3mm thick... but man is it pricey. The strange thing to me is that this item is listed on MSA's website (along with all of their MLS head gaskets) as N/A only, apparently because "some oil passages get blocked". I'm a bit skeptical of that statement. Wish I could help better, I'm in a similar boat.

You know, I'm not the most well versed on this subject but I've had interest for some time in doing the about the same as what you're doing, Clive. I really like the idea of running a filler neck to the stock location. However, I just read the NASA/HPDE rulebook for some clarification on the rules. It looks like that setup pictured wouldn't be legal unless you completely isolated that filler neck/tube from the rest of the cabin (boxing it in with steel maybe?). I am by no means an expert on the subject, correct me if I'm wrong.

Wow! That exhaust is great! Wonder if a similar setup would work on my S30 next time I get around to redoing it...

They do. Mine came with them when I ordered them almost a year ago.