Oddmanout84

Ah. Cast steel. Just about everyone I've asked in the past told me it was cast iron, so that's what I was going off of, and didn't feel the need to question it until now. That being said though, the reasons I was told not to try and weld cast iron were because of the high temps involved, etc. But for welding cast IN GENERAL, the biggest thing I was told to look out for was that the small bubbles formed during the casting process can interfere with the welding process. Like I said, I'm not an expert, I just started out the other day. Would it be wise for me to try and tackle welding a cast manifold, after just practicing on a few pieces of 16 gauge steel? I suppose that I do have three lives (manifolds) left, just in case I screw up the first one, but that's besides the point.

How difficult was that to weld directly to the manifold? I'm relatively new to welding and have been told its an absolute (very very fun time) to weld cast iron. Until now I've been almost dead set on getting one of those spacer flanges with the wastegate flange built in off of ebay. Only problem is that its about 63mm thick, which will offset the T3/T04 turbo I'll be mounting quite a bit. Since I'm also going to be running the MSA 2.5" downpipe, this might have some clearance issues. So if the difficulty of welding my own flange and wategate pipe into the turbo manifold (like yours and hoke's) is more beneficial, I'd like to know...

Yeah, I remember the first time my uncle heard the car run... He thought the injector click was a valve clearance issue. So did I at first, those things are LOUD.

Better than the CT DMV. When I took my Cali license in to change over to a CT license, they REMOVED my motorcycle certification, and gave some BS excuse why. Apparently even though I have an M license, have all the cert paperwork, and its PRINTED ON THE LICENSE WITH A CAPITAL "M", I have to contact the cali dmv for paperwork proof and/or take the test again.

The back of your car reminds me of this: or a koala...

Lol... Finished car...

Forget paint jail... this is paint maximum security prison... with no chance of parole...

This is very good to hear. Currently running my 280z with headers and the MSA twice pipes the engine is really annoying at highway speed. And this is even after I laid some thick soundmat throughout the interior. Good thing I'm planning the turbo swap. I'm going to try and see if I can use the MSA downpipe, go to 3" single piping and then terminate by adapting the current twice pipes glasspacks to fit on the end. Hopefully this doesn't create too much backpressure. I'd really hate to get rid of these tips, I just can't see myself replacing a nice looking twin pipe look for a fartcan (even if in the name of flow).

Wish I knew, I don't have them (yet). Search around a bit, you'll find plenty of info.

No, some dummy PO put it in some time before I bought the car.

(Sportmax) XXR 002. 16x8 0 offset. Probably coilovers, maybe made by Techno Toy.

The "strange" looking bars you see are aircraft flight control push-pull rods.

Hey when you get out towards CT I'll trade you those boring, fake leather Summit seats for some nice stock 280z seats.... Autozone seat covers included!

I rolled them with a rolling tool (can remember for the life of me what the manufacture was, I just know its blue with and orange wheel and bolts to the hub). So far, its been done pretty lightly, but I don't rub unless there's a really big bump. I'm driving carefully until I go up north again to complete the process (my friend owns the tool). Before I start thrashing the car around, I'm going to try and bend the fender out as close to flush with the ZG flare as possible. If all else fails, I'll cut and weld it.

Alright then...

I have plans to lower it at some point, dunno about the bumpers yet but I probably had the same idea as you; matte black fiberglass 240z style. As for the fenders, you are correct. They're rolled, not cut. I need to paint them flat black so they're harder to see... Your pictures bring back memories of Camp Pendleton...

I finally have wheels that fit and complete the look of the car, thanks to Kim Bong and Rudypoochris! RB 17x9, 17x9.5 I actually screwed up and ordered RBs, and meant to get the RBRs instead. But I couldn't be happier with my mistake, I think these may actually look better on my car the way they are!

Me too, I just trimmed the inside corner a little bit, no more front wheel rub. Because it would ruin the look. I've almost got the look of the car *perfect* for where I want it to be. Granted, I may still cut and weld the fenders. But I'd like to see if I can avoid an essentially irreversible modification. EDIT: Amazingly enough, its the ZG flares that make my car unique around here. Until about a week ago, I was the only person in our club that had them on their Z. As of now, I'm the only person with the combination of ZG flares AND fender mirrors, not to mention an orange and black car.

Finally! Got some wheels that suit the look of the car and fill out the flares! Rota RBs, 17x9 -13, 17x9.5 -19 Yokohama S-Drives, 235/40/17 front, 255/40/17 rear Even with the stock R200 diff, I CANNOT spin the tires anymore. There is simply too much traction! Now its time for me to build up the power so I can!

My guess is carbs. Especially for a long distance run at highly varied altitudes and temperatures, I wouldn't want them.

As I've stated before, I brought my '78 280Z from California to Savanna GA, to Connecticut in one long trip, no problems. And this was before I fixed anything on it at all. Didn't fail me once (which is good, because I had no spare parts or anything on me, lol). I'd recommend being prepared, maybe even take a few spare relays. My Z has been making at least 1-2 100 mile round trips per week, no problems, for the past several months. And I STILL haven't rebuilt the engine. I don't feel worried about driving anywhere (distance wise). Dude, if you actually make the trip to NH, let me know. Not too far from here at all.

So far I haven't cut anything, but have been slowly using a fender roller to push out the metal. I've actually only gotten the inner lip curled under so far, and it may rub when hitting large bumps or if I cornered hard. Once I start pulling it out I plan on making it nearly flush with the ZG flare. Hopefully that will solve the issue of any rubbing. Yes, by the way, I am running the staggered rota RB set in 17x9, 17x9.5. No issues so far on the front (not even rolled yet), just the rears.

As long as its well done in the end, it will be worth it.

Looks excellent, except the purple in the engine bay. But I'm an AR @sshole when it comes to color, so take that with a grain of salt.

But before you go and buy a new, longer exhaust tip... It probably won't reduce the fumes, at all. My Z has the Twice Pipes system from MSA which has two chrome tips that are waaay too long (think they're at least half a foot... ugh...). Doesn't keep me from sucking fumes, at all. Also have the BRE spoiler, doesn't help. But what would probably help, and I just haven't gotten around to it yet, are some new tail light gaskets and rear hatch weatherstrip. I'd try that route first, unless both of yours are brand new and already make an airtight seal.