turbeau

Yes I searched around but I still need help. My set-up is a 1971 240z it has coilovers, front strut sectioned about 1.5 inch, stock fenders, 15x7 Rewinds 0-offset 205-50-15/225-50-15 I really want the new Rota shakotan, yes I know they are knock offs. I want the 15x9 0 offset. What will it take for these to fit without putting flares on? (roll/pull fenders, tire size?)what about backspacing issues? Thank you for any help. If any one can find pic or has that set up please post pics/links. Thanks

ill check that out. my car had a mechanical fuel pump up front, i will look for the green/black wire near the tank. no switch, i want it to run while key is in on position.

looked but couldnt find the answer. im installing an electric fuel pump to feed my trip webers. is there a guide for the install on here? where to mount? where to put positive and negative lines? rubber spacer? etc... 1971 240z carter pump

yeah i had to take the master cylinder off and clean it. put it back together and now it works. The fluid was not draining back into the MC and the brake pressure would stay. im on my way to the show and will take some pics.

i unbolted everything and tried to bend the MC backwards to give myself enouph room to spin the arm, but it wouldnt make it. I definetly do not want to overbend it and break the hard lines coming out the bottem. i dont want to take it all off but i might have too.

my master cylinder arm was adjusted too short and keeping the pedal depressed a little. so as i would drive the fluid would build up and then not drain out and the brakes were always "kinda on", makes sense. now i have to disconnect the master cylinder and brake booster to pull that lever back and adjust it out a couple turns. any suggestions for removing the MC without causing a huge mess and having to bleed all the lines again?

i have a chiltons manual and it says the rear drums are self adjusting. i will adjust the brake pedal and whatever else i can.

yeah its the same with the ebrake adjusters inside the drum. i set the adjuster all the way down to get the drums back on, but its so low the ebrake does not work. it seems that the with adjuster all the way down the shoes should be closer therefor drums fits easier. but ebrake is too loose. if i move the piston out to tighten the ebrake the shoes are out too much to fit the drum over, which means too much friction from shoes to drums and the same problem. am i confused on how this works? ill try different adjuster hieghts but have no idea how to solve this problem yet.

the brake pedal was really stiff and engaging high. i bled all the lines and bled the master cylinder, air came out of the rear brake cylinder. then i drove it after i got off the freeway i noticed that the car would not coast between shifts but instalntly slow down like i had the brakes on. i put it on a hill in nuetral with the e-brake off and it would not roll. i could barely drive it, but not safely. had it towed home. i took off the drums and disconnected the axles and spun the hubs, the passenger side is not smooth and squeks on half the rotation, wheel bearing, driver side was perfect. i cleaned the drums and shoes and put it all back together but the brakes are on while i drive. the brake pedal is hard with very little travel. the fronts seem okay, when i jacked it up they spin almost a full turn when i spin them. the rears do not spin freely at all. cant even push the car at all. while driving the car the problem seems worse when it is warmed up, shoes expanding? what could cause the brakes to stay on? 71 z stock brakes, SS lines im trying to get to JCCS this sunday, help! thanks

bought another mechanical fuel pump, changed the spark plugs and viola, runs like a champ, almost. can not give it 100 percent throttle without it "falling on its face". also idle is a little high so i might back off the timing a bit.

it ran terrible. piped in a fuel gauge and the stock mechanical pump was only at 1 psi. So now i will get an electric pump and regulator, set it at 3.5 and try again.

cool thanks guys,i just got it all installed and started it up. Zach, the return springs you used seem very strong and offer too much resistance while revving. I will probably switch to softer springs. at about 4k rpm it was backfiring out the carbs smelling very "fuely" running rich, rather rich than lean how high can these rev, and how should i rev them safely? tomorrow i will drive it around the block and see what it feels like, im so excited

well i have a couple specific questions with pictures ( hopfully they work) 1. my stock 71 linkage is 2 1/2 inches too long to fit on the linkage for the webers, what do people do? 2. all of my webers are missing this plate on the back, the choke plate? can i run without it and will it affect driveability? beyond just starting it up and waiting? 3. where should i plug in the tube for the (vacuum advance?) from the bottem of the distributor? 4. what about a heat sheild, custom? 5. as it is now there is no fuel return, both sides are plugged. is this okay? 6. the SUs had a coolant line going through them, the webers dont. is this okay? thanks for any and all the help

im in la mesa, which is part of san diego. i am converting from SUs to triple webers on my 71 240z. I have zero experience with this set up and am running into a few problems. What I need is an experienced Z guy to come see if I set it up okay. 619-578-8583 my name is Beau, thank you very much

The Z is not comfortable/safe to drive at night. Need more light. I am thinking about buying the MSA wire upgrade harness for my 71. parking light headlight alternator anybody with experience buyin/installing/using any of these? I dont have any electical accessories except stock lights which I will upgrade also. Its about $500 for all of them together and I hope it will be worth it. Thanks in advance

I talked to my local Z shop and they said it is a worn countershaft bearing. That means rebuild or replace because eventually it will fail. Rebuild was quoted at $1000, too much. thats half a 240z.

i feel the pain, one works intermittenly. dash flashers work and sometimes click, but no outside turn signals. hazards can make all bulbs flash w/no problem. keep up the good fight!

i put a tranny in (junkyard 5sp), filled it up with gear oil, and still have the same noise. I reused the same clutch, pressure plate, fork, and throwout bearing. Noise sounds the same in all gears, maybe a little quieter in 4/5 but hard to tell because exhaust is loud. Tommorrow i will jack it up, check the fluid levels, and adjust the clutch slave cylinder. Could it be too tight/loose and cause something to rub?

when i go to the track i have about 1/2 tank. does electric fuel pump get mounted near the tank? my setup is almost stock so maybe a mechanical pump will be sufficient.

my mechanical fuel pump is ticking pretty loud. its on a SU carb'ed L28. just a street car that i have taken to 1/8th drag a couple times. should i upgrade to an electric pump? i dont know anything yet about fuel pumps so suggestions/advice/install would be very informative. thanks

I need a 5 speed transmission from 78 and up Z. I am in San Diego and can come pick it up. Cash in hand for you, I am thinking around $150. call or text 619-578-8582, Beau

well the tranny broke while driving to JCCS. i looked under the car and the speed sensor was missing and all the gear oil had come out. now i am shopping for new 5 spd. any one have experience rebuilding a tranny?

Hey Dave, i left your cell phone number at my work. call me back on my cell if you get a chance. i will come up on Sunday.

any year 5 speed. must work. cash in hand ready for you. Im in La Mesa which is part of San Diego. $100-$150. Get my Z back on the street! post an offer and ill call back, or text me at 619-578-8583, i work all day.

on my way to JCCS the tranny gave out. the throw out bearing was already whining and i thought i could make it. at about 80 mph the sound got louder then a bang happened inside the tranny and it stopped working. i got towed home. i looked under the car and the speed senson had fallen off and all the manual transmission fluid was gone. i filled it up and tried to run the car. the motor is fine but there was really loud grinding when the clutch was released. the noise came from the clutch end of the transmission. i moved the car back and forth in the driveway with 1st gear and reverse. the grinding noise was too loud so i stopped and took the transmission off. i could not find any damage or signs of wear. the pressure plate, disk and flywheel look fine. the throwout bearing looks fine and spins like normal. i dont know what the problem could be, any ideas? also, on the magntetic drain plug for the tranny there was a bunch of thin black shavings that felt like plastic, they were not metal.