turbeau

Okay so I finally bought a new pair of wheels for the Z. They are SSR Formula Mesh in 15x8 -14 offset. Current set up is coilovers, 15x7 Konig Rewinds with 205-50-15 in front and 225-50-15 in rear. Lips are unrolled. I did a test fit of the new wheels without tires on the car and they stick out more than I thought they would. I wanted to run a 225-50-15 all around, or a 205-55-15 in the front. To me it doesn't look like I can fit that. What tire sizes do you guys think will fit? I am not into a stretched look like 195s and I think my current 205-50s have too short of a sidewall. Also, I only bought a pair of these, but there is another set for sale in the same specs. If I cant fit the tires I want then I will have to buy a smaller size. Thanks for any suggestions.

I need a yellow 16 tooth speed sensor cog/ assembly. I think the cog matches the differential and I have the original 240z R180 one. The current transmission is a 5 spd. I also need the plug/bolt for the side of the transmission to fill up the gear oil. not the drain plug but the fill plug, its right behind the reverse sensor. it has a square head txt me at 619-578-8583 if you have these parts, thanks a lot

Looks good Zark. I love the color, if I repaint my Z I'm doing orange for sure.

Great looking wheels kouki. I've been looking for some used jdm wheels in the same size. Where did you get those and what was price if you don't mind sharing?

Now that it's running well I want to do another dyno pull then see if anything needs to be changed. I have a sync tool but have not been successful using it. Here is what i tried. I disconnect the linkage, use the idle speed screw to get the flow about the same. But each barrell of the carbs are reading different. Then when I connect the linkage rods they will not be the same length. The closest I could get the carbs is 4-5-7 on the sync tool. The idle mixture screws seem to have no affect on the flow, or the idle speed for this motor.

2 posts above this I posted my jets. The car ran bad. Idle was very stable at 900 RPM but anything over 30% throttle would make it bog. There was a huge cough at the transition point between between 2-3k RPM. If I got through the bog at the start and all the coughing at the transition then it was a little more stable up to 6000, with an occasional hiccup. All these problems made the car very slow and no fun to drive, almost dangerous in traffic cause I was always bogging all the time. Yesterday I went to a dyno day at a local shop. I knew I wouldn't be able to make a clean run because of how the engine was running, but I wanted to check the AFRs. I suspected it was very rich because the plugs were always black and sooty. Well the dyno said it was very rich at idle, about 10, and very lean for the rest, about 15-17. I moved the idle mixture screws in until the idle AFRs were closer to 12. Then it was time to do something about the rest of the range, luckily there is a buggy shop next door that sells Weber parts. They happen to have 6 145s mains that I buy and install. I assumed that this would richen up the the top end be a good start to making the car more driveable. I was expecting only a very small difference. Well, switching to the 145s mains fixed everything, I swear. There was no bog at any throttle input, no nothing at the transition except clean pulling. I could not believe the difference. I wanted to find a weakness and I knew that a burnout was completely out of the question with the previous setup, it would seriously bog for 2-3 seconds. So I came to a stop, brought up the revs and dropped the clutch. Whoa! Tires instantly lit up and spun all the way to second gear. I have been driving around town today and the car is almost boring. From a stop light in traffic I just give it a little gas and the car goes, shift at 3000 and keep going with no problems. Then when there are no cars in front of me Ill take it up to 6000 and the car just screams. Before the jet swap I was very dissatisfied with the carbs. I have heard far more stories of people having problems with bog and poor transitions than Webers that worked properly. So if you are like me from two days ago then take hope that even a small change, like one jet up or down a step, can change the character of the entire car.

Here's my setup: 180 air corrector F11 emulsion tubes 140 main jet 55 F8 idle jet 45 Venturi 34 choke Does anyone is the San Diego area have a synchro meter I can barrow for a day?

I have an electric Carter fuel pump next to the tank putting out 4 psi and want to add in an inline FPR(fuel pressure regulator). what do you guys have on your Webers that is good? I was thinking the Mr. Gasket type, but the reviews are terrible and it seems cheap. I will spend $20-70 range I also need a pressure gauge and was thinking to put it between the last two carbs to make make sure carb three is getting the correct pressure, 2.5-3. Attached is a pic of my cars engine bay Reccomendations and pics of you set up will be most appreciated. Posting Pictures: Please Read http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98611-posting-pictures-please-read/page__pid__998203#entry998203 Please adjust your phone/camrea settings for ( 1024 x 768 aprox.) smaller image size.

Sunny we will look forward to the pics, what size tires did you decide on?

By under sprung do you mean the springs rate should be higher? Are you talking street or race conditions? How much spring travel do you have? Thanks

Super cheap Cosmo coil overs (They are crap dont get them) sectioned front tubes. There is a ton of room in front in back. I can post any fitment pics/shots if you want.

Check my sig for pics of my car. It's the blue one. 15 rewinds 205/50 front and 225/50 rear.

Yeah nelsdanger that set up looks good. Can take fitment pics without the spacers? How would the back spacing fit, I assume you have coil overs.

To answer my own question: yes. The car is running now with the wiring hooked up the way I described.

Good tire choice, let's get some front inner fender clearance pix.

I bought a remanufactured dizzy with E12-80 module. I have a quick question for the wiring: G/w connects to long b/w to bypass resistor + coil post connects to B terminal on IC unit Short b/w wire to + post on coil Black wire from engine harness near coil goes to C pin on IC unit and - post on coil? Will someone post a clean pick of how/which wires are connected to the coil?? Thank you

Comicartist, the car looks awsome. I dig the fender.

i need a good condition working(duh) dizzy. 78-81 I am in San Diego I prefer remanufactured. VERY motivated buyer

Thanks Kaito. Yes I'm in San Diego. The car hasn't started for a while. I thought it was the Stock ignition module. When I called around to get a new one it costs like $150, so I tried using the HEI but am still having the same problem. Ill read through the FSM to see about gapping the stator and Rotor. I'm out of ideas of what the problem could be and what to check.

Still no luck. Okay so still the same problems. But I think that I have the HEI wired up properly now. I was trying to change the pickup in the distributor and ran into a few problems: one of the three bolts that holds it down stripped. While I was messing around with all this I noticed that the "star" thing that spins is not looking right. As you can see in the first pic one of the splines is hitting as it spins. In the other pic there is a spline that is about 1 cm away from the pick up point. what does this mean? buy a new one?

Another thing that may be important. When i got the new Blaster 2 the center post was too long to fit the wire to the distributor. I filed the black plastic cylinder down about 1/2 inch so the wire could make contact. Could that be a problem?

I am still having no success with getting the car started. This is the HEI module. First pic is W and G terminal, I have the red and green wires from the distributor going there. The next pic is of B and C side. Im not sure how to wire this side. I have four wires: long BW( black white), short BW,GW(green white), and B(black). And a red wire that I think goes from the negative post of the coil to the C terminal. I also got a pickup coil to put in the distributor.

I measured 10.4 v at the battery. Checked the coil primary and secondary per the Chiltons Manuel and it was good, brand new also. Full power to the coil. But no spark out of the center post from the coil to the distributor. Had my GF hold the coil wire to a chassis ground and there was no visible spark. We also checked the distributor. I disconnected and pulled out of the car. Hooked up the meter to the red and green wires and spun the shaft. There was some readings, I forget what numbers and on which settings.

I'm considering the new enkie apache or shakotans.

Kali, you are braver than I. S30 or 31? I have been considering these too for a while. Post up fitment pics, back spacing and inside fender fitment.