turbeau

I have 15x8 -14 in the rear, stock body. Had 225/50 but that rubbed a lot, switched to 205/55, much better, but still rubs under heavy compression. Fenders are rolled. Here is a thread with some fitment pics. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112524-need-tire-size-help-for-15x8-14-wheels/?fromsearch=1

good stuff from everybody on here. Today I went from 34 chokes, 150 main, 180 AC, 50F9 idles, F11 ET to 30 choke, 120 m, 180 AC, 50F9, F11 ET With the initial set up the car idled at 10.5, cruise between 12-13 and WOT about 13 afr. Tip in from any rev range would spike way lean to 19+ afrs causing stumble, then linear power to 6k rpm (the highest my wimpiness would go) I switched to the 30 choke after reading through datsungarage site and I liked the way he described the new drive-ability of the 30s. Now it idles at 11.25, cruise 13, WOT 13. There is still a small stumble, about .5 sec when tipping in, then full power. It takes off cleanly and stays linear straight through the transition. I thought the car would feel slower but it felt the same, just easier to drive. The afr's were more stable and the car was more predictable to drive. Stock L28

That is the weird thing, nothing was disassembled or taken off in any way to weld on the bung. I had the wiring for the gauge pre done, drove the car to the shop, he crawled under and sanded off some ceramic coating, drilled a hole, welded on the bung and then I plugged in the sensor. On start up the new idle was at 1500. When I got home I did the routine of resetting the idle and it didn't change. I even detached the throttle arms, and backed out the idle speed screws all the way and the idle still read 1500 rpm. So to me that sounds like at least one of the carbs is stuck open on the inside. I will open up the suspect one to see if that is the case. It could also be the tach malfunctioning. Or it could a malfunction at the tach. When I had the throttle arms off and speed screws out the exhaust sounded like the rpm's were at 7-900, eventhough the tach read 1500 still. Here is the welded bung, and the super slick gauge install that kennymonster helped me do.

current set up 180 air F11 E tube 145 main 55 f8 idle 40DCOE 34 choke I ordered a set of 50F9 idles and 150 mains. When I get them in and new AFR readings I will post the results. The throttle plates are positioned so that they cover half of the first (closest to intake manifold) hole when viewed from the progression hole inspection area. The car always had a really stable idle right at 1000rpm, then after the bung was welded on I cannot get it below 1500. If there is an incomplete weld at the bung could that cause an exhaust leak and effect the idle so drastically?

All Right guys, I installed a wideband sensor with a gauge to read the AFRs. I need some help interpreting the results. Here is the setup stock 2.8L 180 air F11 E tube 145 main 55 f8 idle 40DCOE 34 choke Before the install the car idled right at 1000 rpm, on acceleration there was some lag. The AFR readings: first thing I noticed was that the car idled at 2000 rpm now, I do not understand why. Any thoughts? The sensor is mounted on the exhaust manifold after the 6 collection tubes merge into 1. Idle and cruising AFR is between 10 to 11. Hard acceleration is up to 15 So, what are some recommended changes I can make to get a proper AFR reading? Thanks

Got them in today. Man have in waited a long time for these.

I just ordered a pair of HZ3099 yesterday from RedlineMotive.com About $150 including shipping. The rep said he had 8 in stock at the time

What an amazing gentlemen. Thank you Bill for your contributions, thank you tube80Z for sharing them.

SSR Formula Mesh F: 15x7.5 -8 205/50 R: 15x8 -14 225/50 coilovers with sectioned struts

I'm in San Diego. Are you doing the test fit in this area? 240z stock fenders, coil overs.

Haajehaa I still don't understand how you got those to fit in there. I see the tires have the new stickers on them, have you driven the car with that set up?

I already sold the S. To my girlfriend, and it stays in my garage so I can drive anytime I want. Super Sweet. I DD an 07 350Z, the power is great and it's way heavier than the S so it rides smooth on the freeway.

thanks haajehaa and ryne those are some good looking cars. i prefer a car with stock fenders and wide wheels. for this fitment i took my existing tires (205-50 & 225-50), put them on the new rims, and put them on the car. i think it looks pretty good

I put in 6 new plugs, NGK bpr 11s i think, and after driving for a few miles the first four plugs are sooty black, and the last two plugs are white. The car felt like it was driving fine. Good throttle response and speed. All carbs have the same jetting and same turns on the idle adjustment screws. The third carb has a sticky butterfly return. I have to use a stronger return spring to pull it shut so it will idle at about 900 rpm. The linkage makes sure that all carbs open and close the same so I dont see how that could be the problem. What else could cause one set of plugs to run so different? I have posted my jetting size on the last page if checking that will help yield some answers. Thanks for any help