turbeau

Stock 78 280Z, 5-speed. When in neutral or in gear and the clutch is engaged (pedal released), there is a whirring noise from the transmission. The noise increases in pitch with RPMs. The noise vanishes when the clutch pedal is depressed to the point where clutch disengagement happens. The noise does NOT cease by merely touching the clutch pedal. If the clutch pedal is pushed in, the engine is revved up, and the clutch is released (all the while, the transmission is in neutral) the sound will increase in pitch to match the revs once the clutch is engaged. I pasted this description from another thread because the poster described it so well, I have the exact same thing happening. I think it is the throwout bearing. My question is: is this noise just a noise, or should I open up the tranny and replace the bushings? Can I drive it for a while before the clutch stops working? Can anyone describe to me how the throwout bearing makes this noise? And if the clip comes off the release sleeve what happens?

what is this thing near the alternator that bolts to the inside fender well? it is under the fuel filter. mine has a plastic cover that fits over it. it plugs into the wiring harness. do i need it? car is a 71.

Pyro, that is exactly what I had in mind. I have a F54 block and N47 head. I think the motor is from an 80'. That means dished but how can I tell for sure? Also, can use the serial number on the block to check the year?

hybridz is the best forum because of people like you guys. this is only a part time drag car (just for fun drag car) so no SBC for me. I will continue my research and hopefully unlock a little more power.

my car revs up to about 5500 rpm then the power drops off, im losing all my drag races on the top end. Will a performance cam give me more revs and some real HP up top? I run about a 10.5 in the 1/8 mile, seems slow. I dont know anything about cams yet, like what else i have to replace if i put one in (lash pads, springs, rocker arms)? I was thinking stage 1? Setup is l28, SU'ed, headers, exhaust, lightened flywheel. thanks for any advice

I started racing my 71 Z at a 1/8 mile strip, started with a L24 and ran a 11.05 then switched to SU carbed L28 and ran a 10.65. Both setups had a similar 60 ft time of 2.45 avg. Car has few mods like filters, headers, exhaust, flywheel, and 225-50-15 cheap tires in the rear. The problem is the wheel spin through first . I want to get a new set of wheels and tires with some better traction. Do you think 14 or 15 inch rim, and what is a good tire for this setup? Not a full slick but a street radial:eek:, i dont need it as a daily driver cause i plan to switch rear wheels just for the race. What do you guys think?

im putting in an aluminum flywheel, i checked the Haynes manual for torque specs and got 72-80 ft/lbs, the tranny is 5sp, can anyone confirm this? also, should the pilot bearing be flush with the crank when fully inserted? i had to tap my last one in and then had to chisel it out. i always have a hard time putting the transmission back in the crank, any tips for aligning the splines and sliding it in easier? thanks for all the help

i opened the tranny and took the clutch off, and all the flywheel bolts were loose. one had come so far out it had hit the clutch disk. its my ignorant fault for not torqueing the bolts down properly when i installed it. what a homer. the pilot bearing is messed up and i tried using the pull-out tool, but it didnt work. do you have any suggestions or tricks for getting a stubborn pilot bearing out?

yeah that is what i hope, this weekend i will drop the tranny and open it up. if the disk did break maybe i torqued it down incorrectly? it is fairly new clutch (~3000? miles) thanks agian for the looks and help, the Z community is great!

when i rolled back in neutral there where no sounds, clutch resevoir is full but grimy, no clutch slippage previous to incident. tomorrow i will drop tranny and inspect. thanks for help so far

i drove the car around the block to check the plugs. going about 20 mph in third gear the tranny started shaking badly and i put it in neutral. i couldnt put it back into gear so i pulled over. with the car off and parked i tried to run through the gears with the clutch in. most were difficult to put in, some would not go in. with the engine running no gears would go in, and reverse would just grind cause the engine was spinning. when i would start the car in gear the tranny would shake really hard then start grinding and i would go back to neutral. with the car in gear i rolled backwards and there was loud clunking sounds, sounded like from the differential. i looked underneath and i could not verify anything unusual. had it put on a flatbed and towed back to my house. what do you think?

i just did the fuel filter and will do a full tune next. i hope tat solves it and i will become a happy Z driver again.

i have just airhorns on the carbs right now. white smoke when cold, then turns clear. i still havent solved this.

I just replaced the plugs and fuel filter yesterday, i dont know how to check the level in the carbs. any how to's for doing that?

it is a fidenza flywheel and i ran it on the other motor with no problems, runs fine at 3k in nuetral. in nuetral i cant rev above 5100. no ECU so all mechanical tuning. i dont think its the header cause its the same exhaust as before. what is valve adjustment? im am very unfamiliar with the internals of an engine. could it be vacuum advance? ill check in the Haynes and see if i can check that.

i have a 71z with an L28, duel SUs, headers, straight piping, air filters, lightened flywheel, ngk wires, universal coil, 280 dizzy, all else is stock. i just got the car running after the motor swap but am having a hard time with the fine tuning. the motor gets really rough at 4,500k then can barely rev over 5k due to no power and a lot of vibration. also, acceleration does not sound smooth, like a fast thud thud thud instead of vroooooom. the torque is there, but no top end. vacuum leak? timing? fuel pressure is good. thanks for any suggestions.

I got it started now it idles really high. around 2400-3600. i have loosened all the screws on the throttle linkage that might hold the gas open and have loosened the choke cables all the way. i moved the distributor to try and change the timing but still at 2400 at the second mark of the R. what is going on?

just put the L28 in my 71Z and it wont start. i have full charge on battery, SUs, mostly stock. when i tried to start it the first time it ran for about 2 seconds then shut off. now when i turn the key the starter just clicks. i thought it was a fuel problem but there is fuel in the lines. i tapped in a fuel gauge next to #1 SU and tried to start it but the gauge did not move. when i checked the line there was fuel in it. i put the L24 distributor on it but still have the one from the L28. i didnt know how to wire the coil to the plug outlet on the side of that dist. any suggestions? check fuel again? check spark? thanks for any help

thanks again. you guys were right, the battery was not charged enouph to start the motor. i had the battery and starter checked at Kragen and both were good, although battery was very low. i charged it up. new problem! the motor turns over but now there is a fuel problem, no fuel pumping. i have a mechanical fuel pump. i detached the hose to the filter and started the car, there was extremely low to no suction. i also tried to start the car with a fuel pressure gauge wired in near the carb and it did not move. could the fuel pump be out?

Thank you guys for all the suggestions. on the first attempt of starting it the belts move so i dont think its siezed. i checked the battery and it is charged, about 11.68. i checked both starters, l24 and l28, and they spun but the shaft did not move out all the way. tomarrow i will put a new starter on. could that be it? i will also buy new battery cables. i hope all of your cars are running better than mine, go enjoy your Zs!

i cleaned the battery terminals and used dielectric grease. sam problem after. its not the battery. i also tried starting it with a jump hooked up but same problem. on the first key turn it cranks? twice then nothing second attempt is 1 crank then nothing third try is a half crank fourth is just the click how do i check if the motor is seized? it came from a running car 2 months ago.

this is the first install ive done and i dont know much about the electrical system of the car. Its a 71 240z with an L28 SU put in. right after i put the motor in i started it and it revved to 4K and ran for 2 seconds then shut off. now when i turn the key it makes a loud click from the engine compartment and the lights all go dim. then thats it. otherwise all the lights work fine so i know its not the battery. i also tried to start it with a jump on but had the same problem. the reason i asked about the distributor is because i heard that the 280z one should be used for this swap, i didnt know how to wire it up so i used the l24 dis.

can an L24 distributor work on a carbed L28? if not then i need to wire my universal coil to the L28 Distributor. can you tell me which prong is positive and which negative on the plug from the L28 distributor? thanks for any help

i just pulled out the l24 and bolted in the l28 but it wont start. i tried both starters and still same problem. i tried starting it with a jump and no go. i think the problem might be the distributor. i have the 240 one on there now, will this work? i have a positive and negative wire coming out of a universal coil i used for the l24. on the 280 distributor there is a two prong outlet plug but i dont know which prong is positive and which is negative. any other suggestions for what to check? thanks for any help, and yes i have checked for other threads