Jersey

I took the pipe off my 1G DSM BOV on my 240 once just to hear what all the "hype" was about and it definetly made some noise. Can't say it was super loud, or compare it to others because i've never been in another car with one vented to the atmosphere but, you could hear it pretty darn good. My Z ran like crap with it that way so i hooked it back up to recirculate after a short run so i don't have much info, but at least some. It does work excellent and keeps the Z right on boost between shifts. The best part about it is that it cost me $20 I really don't hear it releasing when it's hooked up, but i know it does

No, just the one that's on the Z now. I'd really appreciate the manifold if you're willing to part with it. That would be great. As soon as i get this I.C. in, hopefully by tomorrow night it'll be done, one of the next things i was thinking of doing was to build a custom fuel rail and upgrade the injectors. I was going to order the rail from Arizona Speed and Marine, tap it for the upgraded injectors and do the welding it myself. I like to save $ when i can and i learn new stuff as i go. As long as i have the time and resources to do the job, i enjoy spending some time in the garage figuring it all out. Time is the toughest part of it all as i'm sure you're well aware. I'd love to play around with porting/re-threading an intake. Appreciate it. I think i'm going to take a run to Island Wednesday night if all goes well this weekend. Any plans? Be great to put some names to faces and see some nice Z's, like yours. Hey, I'd even like to see that GN tear up the track a bit and teach us all a lesson!!! ha. I'll make a new post on Monday to let anyone that may be interested in showing. Maybe we can show some Z speed there. Possibly see ya Wednesday night?

Thanks eveyone. The pictures probably make the welds look better than what they are but, it wont leak and it should definetly flow better than that stock cast thang, as others have suggested. I'm not really into the fling fling (or however you say it) thing, just more or less making it work and getting faster If i had the time, i'd bring it to a shop to have them duplicate it into one mandrel bent pipe and see if anyone was interested. I know it doesn't even compare to Scotties or JeffP's pipe but i just wanted to see if i could do it and save some $, and it worked. I used the stock cast flange. Notice it missing in the pic? After i get her back on the road with the new DP and NPR I.C. and drive it a bit, if i get some time, i'll pull it back off and take it to a fabricator to see what he'd charge to bend a few up for me then see who's interested. Sorry guys, wish i had the time now to make some more. Possibly Scottie or JeffP will do another run of them? I'll keep ya posted on how it performs. Thanks again.

Ok, remember, i'm still just learning how to weld so please don't break my chops TOO bad! It's 2 1/2" SS and i got it to squeeze around the T5 in my '73. About 3/4" clearance on either side going down. It looks like it'll give the T3 a lot smoother flow than the stocker...hope it helps.

Cool. Thanks guys for the knowledge. I think the first step is to upgrade the pump and then i'll go from there - injectors/fmu. Alex, shoot me an email with a price on that Walbro when you get a chance unless you just wnat me to call ya? Thanks again all.

Thanks Alex. Posted the same time you did, why i didn't respond. Email me with a price shipped to NJ 07405 on the walbro GSL-392. Thanks and thanks for the info. Taking all this in Sleeper. Which injectors do you suggest? I will be keeping the stock '82 ECCS right now. I DO NOT have the $ for an aftermarket YET Possibly next year but for now, i'll need to stick stock on this part. Thanks.

Sleeper - Thanks. Understand on the MSD pump. I will go Walbro if and when i do. Glad to here it's the ZX coil and not the ZXT coil you use that works well fo you. Hard to find ANY turbo cars around here in NJ. Pete - Got ya - Stock ZXT injectors are 260cc/m. I was thinking about the SVO injectors. They run about 370cc/m, correct? I wonder if that's too much for the stock '82 ECCS, even with adjusting the AFM as much as possible? I'd hate to run rich as heck at idle and low end. Looks like i have something new to reseach. Thanks for the info.

Guys, thanks much for all the replies and sorry i haven't replied since my post. Busy with the kids and building the SS DP this weekend. Len - Thanks. I'm going to try and find the Walbro GSL392 for a good price locally. Seems like the pump of choice for the $ and will do the job. If i can't find it in time that i'm done with the IC install, I'll try the stocker and see how much she can handle. I will keep with the stock FF and FPR. Thanks for the info on the AFPR vs RRFPR. I'm using the stock 240 feed line as the return line - i believe it's 5/16". All the stock components are out of a '82 manual - stock 20btdc. Not sure what the stock dizzy retards under boost. Not that hot yet here in NJ. Hottest day we had so far this year i believe was around 80 so far. DP complete, I.C. mounted, firewall cut, waiting for mandral bent pipes and trying to figure out where to get silicon couplers locally. I am impatient, can ya tell??? Sleeper - I will try to find the walbro pump. Question - why are you against the MSD-2225? Just asking because i saw others suggesting it in the archives. No big deal, just curious. I'm also hoping i'm not running to the end of duty cycle on my injectors. We'll see hopefully at the end of the week if the I.C. and DP will allow me to run more boost without ping. Thanks. Yo2001- Good advice. Thanks. Z-Gad - Will do, thanks. Len - I replaced the FF when i did the T swap which was about a month ago. The DP i just made this weekend (pics for all to critisize coming soon ) is 2 1/2". The exhaust i currently have is also 2 1/2" mandral with a dynomax out the back. Hopefully, this wont be a major factor not being 3". Thanks. Len - plugs are at about .042. I will try and take them down a bit after i hit the ping wall to see if it helps. Thanks for the suggestion. Lockjaw - 5/16" return, 3/8" supply. I'm using a '75 280 tank so the pickup shouldn't be a problem. Stock '82zxt coil. Are you talking about the coils from the 300zxT or just the 300zx? And which ignitor - from the 280ZXT? I will look into it, just need to get more info. Thanks. Didn't know the 300 coil was that much stronger than the 280ZXT's. I'm hoping to get that last .33 with the DP and I.C. We'll know in a week or so. Thanks. Pete - When you said that i'd need to change my injectors to run more boost, what boost poundage were you refferring to? Thanks for the luck. I'll need it! I should be ready to run at Island next wednesday or friday night. I will make a post to let any local guys know in case they feel like watching. Hope you and some others can make it. Run your Z! I'd really like to see Rags with either of his 2 Z's there! Either of them would be the Z to see, not mine. the_dj - Man, i hoping. Thanks for the confidence.

Hey all. This is where i'm at - '73 240 running a stock L28ET, stock ECCS, stock fuel pump, stock injectors, stock FPR, elec fan, 3/8" supply line, 10Ga wire to pump from relay, running @ 9psi. This is right at my limit of boost before she starts to ping. I ran a 13.33 with this setup...and i want 12's Last night, I took her off the road and back onto the jackstands to fab a 45deg SS downpipe and will start the NPR I.C. install tomorrow. I was thinking, hoping i guess, with these two things to bump the boost up a bit...maybe 12-14psi, and getting into the 12's. I have a feeling i'm running right at the edge of lean at 9-10psi because a little more psi than that and she starts to ping lightly and, the temp rises quickly on WOT runs. So, here's a few questions i have - 1. Should i upgrade from the stock ZXT pump? Is this what's causing my leaness? 2. If yes to #1, which one do you suggest? I've read bosch, Walbro and MSD. After these mods, i probably wont do much more (yeah, right) 3. I'm using a stock ZXT fuel filter (metal canister type) - Is this restricting me now, or will it if i upgrade the pump? 4. Is the stock FPR causing me any leaness now? If not, will i need to upgrade it if i upgrade the pump? I know these are sort of tough to answer because all applications and Z's are a bit different but, if you have some experience and knowledge you could share, it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance guys.

Let me know what else you may "need" Maybe we can work something out. My wife is going to shoot me

uh....Len...t04b? You've got me interested now. Let me know what you've got. I did revieve your email earlier and have been to busy to reply but, thanks much bud. Appreciate it.

I definetly will Pete. I'm hoping to be done next week, latest...the week following, with the I.C. install and DP and will be going to Island to run her right afterword. I'll probably go on a Wednesday or Friday night. It's just easier for me with the family and you get to run more often with less hassle. Hopefully Joe (rags) will meet me there with his 240ZT. I'd love to see it. From what i've read he's done, he should smoke my doors off, which will give me motivation to be quicker/faster Can't wait.

Could you have possibly unthreaded the wastegate actuator a little too far which would have the wastegate constantly open a little? That would also cause the intake to be a bit warm and your turbo would never get up to speed. Like you said, the boost gauge will hopefully help you diagnose a little further.

Thanks Len. BTW, great name - i'm a Len also 8) It's like you already did half the work for me! I also like the inconspicuous look so i will most likely have the drivers side outlet modified as you did. I cut the rad support a bunch already to get the 3" air intake through, no problem using the airsaw again Thanks for all the info. Let you know how i make out. I hope with the gradualy bend downpipe and I.C. i can boost a little more and get those 12's next week. We'll see. livewire - if you threaded the wastegate actuator to adjust your boost, you need to tighten it up for more boost and put more preload on the spring, not unthread it. I'm sure you know this already and posted wrong, but just making sure. It would be nice if something this easy was your problem, and i'm hoping it is. If your intake is warm as hell, sounds like you're detonating in there. Anything change with the AFM during the I.C. install? Timing changed at all? Hope you get it figured out. Good luck and keep us posted.

Sleeper, Thanks. Appreciate the info. I hope to start the fab work and install this weekend along with the I.C. install. I'l let you know how it goes.

Glad to hear your almost "done" Thanks for the info Len. I just bought the same NPR I.C. as you i believe.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2417650600 And will hopefully start the install this weekend, along with a custom DP. If you have any pics or anymore helpful tip on this install, please, by all means...POST 'EM or email me! Thanks.

Hey Sleeper - if you used the stock flange, ground down smooth, why did you have to install longer studs in the turbine housing? Just wondering because i'm getting ready to make a custom DP also to get around a T5 and was either going to do exactly what you mentioned - cut stock flange and weld new DP to it or, just make a new flange out of stock. You guys with experience and time staring at it - do you think there's enough room to fabricate 2 45degree 2 1/2" bends and not have to modify the T5 at all? Thanks in advance.

With the N/A L28 i had in the '73 before the T swap, i was running the '78 5sp with the 3.54's and had the same problem...i was in 3rd what seemed like forever and never thought about crossing the line in third. I wish i would have just tried because my quickest run on that setup was a 15.026. Maybe, if i stretched 3rd i would have broke into the 14's but never got the chance. 3.90 would have helped in that setup. Here's a video from what it looked like right before i dropped the L28ET in... Englishtown ¼ mile Run3 I hate to lose and this race was most likely one of the main reasons i dropped the Turbo motor in shortly after this My Z is mainly for pleasure driving also and the T5 w/3.54's setup seems to be a pretty good setup for both pleasure and track, for me. I cut the stock trans mount and welded a couple of ears so it would line back up with the stock '73 mounting location. Used the '82ZXT DS and it's accompanying 3.54 R200 so i didn't have to worry about the flanges mating. Length was fine. The stock stang T5 shifter has rubber insulators which i think help the feel of the T5. I never heard another T5 so, i'm hoping the noise is normal also! If you look say, in a chilton or haynes manual and compare the 5sp's, the T5 does look better built but who knows. Time and abuse will tell. Thanks. I hope to get into the 12's next time. HOPE. Hey..I just made up a comparison pic of the tranny mounts. You can kinda see how the ears move the mount foward about 3/4". Hope it helps...

Thanks Scottie. Understand fully on the downpipe/hobbie thing. As far as the T5 issue. I read so many conflicting posts about the T5 when i was ready to do my turbo swap, wondering wether to use it or not, i just figured...i ran through about 3 of the N/A 5sp's in my first 77 way back 17 years ago and had a '78 N/A 5sp in this '73 for some time soooo, what the heck, give it a try. Wasn't tough at all to fit in my '73. I had to make some new ears for the T5 mount that shifted them 3/4" foward and she bolted right up. I also picked up a stock stang T5 shifter on ebay for $20 and used that right off the bat. I'm running redline in it and have been banging it pretty hard (see onboard video ) and so far, so good. I am hard on trans's, i know...good thing they're easy to pull and replace It doesn't feel any more notchy than the N/A 5sp - just as smooth to me. I'm not sure if that's due to the stick and the lube, just what i'm experiencing so far. It is more noisy when just sitting in neutral, clutch out, that's for sure but otherwise, it feels strong. I think if driven right and not beat to heck like i do, either one would hold up. Gearing on the T5 definetly helps me out of the hole with the 3.54's. If i do blow it, i'll either stick the '78 N/A 5sp that was in there back in (hated that 2-3 shift...to big of a rpm drop) or, go with the 280b(?) 5sp that came in the 80-83 ZX N/A. The ratio's on that trans seem great - nice and spread thoughout the range. These are all just MY opinions. Please dont flame me. haha.

Guys, again, thanx for the info. Scottie, my bad. I just double checked my sent items and found that i emailed JeffP that also made some DP's a while ago. Sorry about that. Do you, or have you made any 2 1/2" DP's that will work it's way around a T5? I think i'm at the point of just driving my truck everyday until i get it swapped over anyway because it hangs the front part of my exhaust real close to the road and i'm just waiting to run over something and rip it away from the T3 or do more damage. Drax - that's what i was kind of saying earlier... i thought i read that 3" might be to big to even get between the flange bolts. Thanks. Never got the shop on saturday but will this week. I'll see if i can find some 2 1/2" SS and a place that'll bend it. Also a piece of stock to make a flange and some SS wire for the mig. Thanks to both you and yo on the O2 suggestions. Nice site HybridZ. My first post here and nearly 500 views with thirty something responces! Lots of helpful people here. Appreciate it.

Hey yo - strange replying over here to you. Used to the "other" place. First time i'm posting over here. Nice site. Ok, so HQ mild steel will do also, cool. Sleeper - I actually did email Scottie but he hasn't replied about his downpipe. I wasn't sure if he had any left or was making any more but i was thinking of just getting one from him instead of hassling with the shops around here in NJ. Maybe if i post a on the buy/sell/trade someone will have one that they're willing to give up. Have you noticed any performance difference when you changed over to the smoother flowing DP? What's Scoties made out of and does it squeeze around a T5 in a 240? Thanks.

Thanks Lockjaw. The only reason i was figuring 2 1/2" is because i thought the exhaust side of a T3 was only 2 1/8" and also thought it would be tough to get a 3" pipe in between the 4 flange mounting bolts. Did you cut the stock cast flange and weld to it or fabricate a new flange? I was thinking SS only because of the intense heat. Thanks again for the info.

No problem. Wish i had an extra for ya. What are you going to do for a rear? From what i've read, the turbo DS wont bolt up to a N/A rear because of the differently configured bolt pattern on the flanges. Guess i should have mentioned that before Sorry. Length-wise, it should be fine if you use a R200 with it's mustache bar that sets the rear back a little more. I know it sounds like i'm giving you only half the info you need but it's all i've got experience with. Sorry. Good luck and thanks.

I'm not sure if the 70's and 73's are any different, which i doubt they are but, i put an L28ET with a BW-T5, the '82 DS and the R200 3.54 with CV's out of the same car into my '73. Only thing i had to do is fabricate new mounting locations on the T5 to line up with the existing '73 trans mounts. Also, i measured the T5 and a NA '78 5 speed while i had them out and they where within 1/8" difference between the two, bell to end of tailshaft. Not sure if this will help, just sharing my experiece. Good luck.

I'm hoping i can spin her up a little more with just an I.C. I'm also trying to fabricate a downpipe out of 2 45degree SS bends instead of that tight 90deg stocker but can't find anyone with a mandreal bender that will 2 1/2" for me. Joe - your wife too, eh? haha. We'll definetly hook up. Funny, i just asked one of the guys in my dept, IS (no, i'm not a nerd...haha) and he also lives in Westwood, on 4th ave near the train station. Small world.