Jersey

Sorry Scottie - GNZ.

Hey all. I was wondering if anyone knew of an R200, or a gearset that would swap into an R200, that was higher (lower numerically) than the 3.364's that are found in the '79zx 4sp, 2+2's? I'm looking for something like 2.90's or close to it. I think ScottieGNX is running a ratio like this but is usuing the vette rear. I'd rather not go that route considering 1 - it's hard to find that rear around here, 2 - it's going to expensive and 3, judging by the amount of work he did to get it in there, i'd rather not. Just wasn't sure if, over the years, datsun/nissan may have made anything lower for the R200. Thanks in advance.

Checked the timing last night - still sitting steady @ 20btdc. Thanks Len.

Thanks Afshin. I looked and checked the boot between the afm and T3 last night as closely as i could with the limited time i had and didn't find any leaks. I really need to pull all the I.C. piping off and anything else that's in the way and remove the boot to make sure. I also checked and cleaned the connections for the Throttle Body Switch (?) and it tested ok. I pulled the Head Temp sensor off and cleaned it's contacts as well but didn't have a chance to test as per FSM but i will this weekend. Thanks for the suggestions.

Glad top hear you got your car back, sorry to hear it's in the condition it's in. Dont worry, you'll figure it all out and you can tell the shop how YOU fixed it...or not and charge THEM for your knowlegde on this swap. Len had good points about them releasing your Z in that condition but, i'm not sure of the deal you have/had with them. Ok, anyway... The engine bay doesn't really need to be cluttered with wiring harnesses and you can clean it up as you go. The main harness coming out of the ECCS splits into 2 harnesses about 1' from the ECCS. I smaller of the 2 harnesses is basically for power, some grounds and the fuel pump. Instead of pulling this into the engine bay and across the firewall like it was on the '82ZXT, i split it off and ran it inside the Z. That cleans it up a bit under the hood. The larger of the two harnesses runs out to the engine bay and right to the intake, and that can be very clean also if you take your time routiung. There's a few wires that split off of this harness to run to the coil and that's about it. Just some things i found when i did mine. BTW, you may have additional items that you're using that may clutter it more than what i have like - VCM, CC,...blah, blah...i'm just running the essentials needed to get by. What EFI stuff is in the way where you had your MSD and where was it mounted? Before i put the T motor in, i had my 6A mounted where the windshield washer bottle was. It will go back in the same place as soon as i get some time. Just a thought for another place to install it. Aftermarket tach will be your best bet - as Len said - coil neg and switched + from under dash or fuse block. We talked about getting the AFM in the engine compartment here - http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=23748&highlight= If i were you, and i know you're VERY excited to drive your ZT around but, i would figure out how to get some kind of filter on there before driving her any further. If one little something or other gets sucked through your T3, you're going to have a bunch of Z downtime replacing the squirrelcage. Just my opinion. Like mentioned, check your timing. Same as how you checked on your N/A motor. Static - 24btdc for 83, 20btdc for 81 & 82. Negative #'s on the gauge is hg's of vacuum. 19hg at idle is good, and your idle rpm should be at 800 although, i'm having a problem (see my other post) with idle right now and it's at 18-19hg's. When it ran perfect about a week or so ago, hg's where at 21. The hose off of the WGA t's off and both ends go to two differents spots off of the T3. I would just take the hose off of the WGA, connect your G-valve there and connect the other side of the G-valve back to the WGA. I'd suggest not doing this until you have it running right though...it'll just throw another variable into the mix of what could be wrong. Just my opinion again. Yes, it's all a PITA but, once you get it all figured out, you'll be very happy Good luck and keep us posted. Congrats again on getting it back.

Nice job. Looks great..uncle Ben j/k

No vac booster installed. Never had a problem before without it and haven't made any changes since. Strange eh? You're fast yourself Len

No, it's been the same here Len - 75-80deg. Actually a little cooler than the previous weeks which were high 80's, low 90's. Thanks for the thought though.

I will double-check all sensors with my meter. Thanks 525.

Congrats szlash. Summit's good like that. Not rice - just don't race anyone and lose or you're going to have to do some tail between the legs explaining to do! Let us know how you make out and post some pics if you can.

Hey 327. I did a quick inspection of the AFM to T3 boot and it looked fine. I will try the carb cleaner trick. Fittings are all secure and tight. Checked em. BOV flange and bypass hose not leaking - checked. Power seems up to normal, no problems there. I was thinking the same - intake manifold gasket leak but then again, why when i create a intake manifold leak, the motor runs correct - back up to 800rpm with no loping of idle to eventual stalling condition? And why wouldn't it make a differrence in idle now when i pull the cap off of the valve cover off? I have a feeling you are thinking in the right direction - a leak between the AFM and T3. I think if the leak was here, it would create the problem i'm having. Any place else after the T3, it would be able to pull enough air to supply the intake, even if there was a leak. Thanks for the input 327.

Thanks for the quick respose Lock. I am using the stock AFM. I do know that i probably could start adjusting other things (ie - AFM) to correct the problem i'm having but, i'd rather figure out why this just started to happen all of the sudden and find the cause rather than cover up the problem but adjusting other stuff to compansate for it. I did eliminate all my idle control stuff and it ran perfect - idled 800rpm smooth and pulled through the gears strong for months. It seems to me, since pulling the valve cover cap off doesn't make a real difference now, that somehow the air isn't flowing throughout the motor correctly. Can't remember if there's a valve on the crank breather that might be plugged? hmmm...

Having a strange problem. For some reason, my '73 with the L28ET doesn't want to hold an idle anymore. I just BARELY does...sometimes, other times it stalls when coming to to a stop. Just started happening out of the blue. Hg's on the vac gauge are now reading less at idle - like 18Hg and when i take the valve cover cap off, it really doesn't make a difference like it used to. Yesterday, i pulled a plug off one of the unused intake ports that i had capped off and the idle came back up to 800rpm and the Hg's of vacuum jumped back to the original 21hg. Idles fine like this. Strange that if i create a vac leak in my intake that it jumps up in idle and increases vac pressure. It does smell rich when this port is plugged so i'm figuring there's not enough air getting to the intake to mix with the amount of fuel supplied and when i allow air to enter the intake by unplugging an unused port, it creates a better mixture and runs better. I had a new PCV and tried that but it made no difference. I also checked fuel supply and return and it's pumping fine. Also checked return line for plugs - fine, and FPR for correct operation - fine. Any ideas why this would just start happening? Nothing was changed between the time it ran and idled perfect. It seems the amount of air passing by AFM and being monitored is not the same amount of air getting to the intake. Then i thought maybe the I.C. pipe or the I.C. itself created a leak but, it would still be able to pull the air through the leak to supply the intake and, boost is fine. I'll list my setup. Thanks in advance for any ideas. '82 L28ET stock injectors stock FPR Walbro pump no pov no aac no aic no vcm no egr 1G DSM BOV stock T3 threaded wga arm small NPR I.C. stock ignition stock T.B.

I'll see if i can get a good sound clip when i do it.

szlash - pipe is holding up great. I ran a 13.33 with stock DP, no I.C. and about 11psi. A few weeks ago, i ran a 12.88 ( http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze29q5g/12.88.avi ) with my new DP, NPR I.C. and about 14psi. Cant really tell how much it's helped by itself but i'm sure it's help her breath. Getting a bunch of 3" pipe this week and will hopefully have sometime to weld/install soon. moby - just migged the stainless pipe to the cast flange with stainless wire. I think it was .026. Welded good. Scottie - Thanks. I wish i could end up with something as nice as that. I will do my best. I've got a question now that you posted that pic...did you HAVE TO use the 2 90deg bends right before the muffler or could you get away with 1 or 2 45's? As mentioned earlier, buying some pipe this week. You guys convinced me on scrapping my 2 1/2"

Drax, you are da man.

Drax, you are da man.

Yo or 525 - could you send me the diagram how the 6A gets wired? I'd appreciate it. I'm being brain lazy, i know Thanks. Oh yeah, one more quick question...There's no problem running the MSD without the BTM module on a T motor?

And you wont be at the "stock" boost level for as long as you think, trust me, I know first hand. It's VERY addicting

Bay - didn't see your email? resend it if you can. 525 - The N/A L28 i had in my '73 before the T-swap had just about 10:1 and i ran a 15.026 with it. It was good. But..once i put the T motor in, it's in a whole different ball park. There's nothing like forced induction. You're going to love it once you get it all dialed in. Can't wait 'till next week for you. As Doug said - cruising it floats around 15-19" vac, moderate accelleration - 5-10" of vac. You could have it set at 20psi all the time but it wont run up to 20psi unless you have it WOT and have a load on it. You'll be fine at 10psi. Do you have a good gauge for watching the boost level?

Congrats Cody. Nice!

Congrats 525. Can't wait for you either. Hope it all goes smooth. Keep us posted.

You got it 525. Sorry, couldn't find any good clear pics. Like i said, there's many ideas out there, like a great one that Len custom made, i just found this one on the ground at the Junkyard when i was looking for a mount for the DSM BOV, and figured that it may work...and it did. I knew the stock ZXT boot was too long to fit the AFM and then route another boot/pipe though the rad support for the cleaner and also, it didn't have a port to recirculate the BOV which i wanted. This one was basically a plug and play. I did have to get a small coupler to attach to the front of the AFM then i made a 3" pipe with two small angles to route close to the fender and out through the rad support. Once you get the motor in and start lining things up, it'll be easier to understand. Len...11's...yeah right, i wish! I do know of a way that i could run a bit faster...with a T04b...know anyone with a spare??? haha. Do you have any pics of your custom intake? Now you have me thinking....

Awesome #'s Nathan! I love strong tourqe, especially from a little straight 6

Bay, send me the audio. I'd like to hear it. Have you ever checked fuel pressure with that kind of boost at 5k rpm? Stock pump may be failing a little bit. i just re-read your post - you say you just put the grainger valve in, right? Did you happen to have threaded the WG actuator before that and that is how you controlled boost? If so, that's likely your problem. I read a post on where you'll need to take some pre-load back off that spring when changing over and using a G-valve. Just a thought.