at-jefft
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Everything posted by at-jefft
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Alright, Thanks for the offer. I think I got a handle on it now but I'll let ya know if I run into any more problems.
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too funny
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If someone with experience with both would make a list of pros and cons for each, i'm sure that would help a lot of people decide.
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sounds good.
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its under Engine Contol P.7
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Any word on the needle, Nozzle and spring on your carb? Or were you thinking of just selling the entire carb?
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I have adjusted my valves to the metric spec, while looking at the imperial (Inches) numbers. Even got a new feeler gauge because I thought that was the issue. hahaha It sounded like a diesel. Put the front springs on the rear and vise virsa. It was slammed in the rear, and ridin high on the front. Words of my sis; "looks like a midget should be driving it"
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Got a manual/FSM? if not Xenons30.com should help.
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From ZTherapy.com: Complete Tune Up Kit for 2 carbs (Needle & seats, SM or N54 needles, ZT Nozzles, float gaskets, gas lines, banjo seals,4 insulator gaskets, Just SU's DVD) isn't the N54 or SM Needles, needles. and the ZT Nozzles are nozzles.
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Carbs swapped. Verdict....... Back cylinders fired only! Time for a rebuild kit. I think I need a kit with a nozzles/jets and needles. because the jet on the bad carb is worn. So is my only option Ztherapy?
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alright, I'm gonna swap the carbs front/back. I looked in the fsm and I can't find how to disconnect the linkage so I can separate them. anybody, know a off hand how to do that?
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There hasn't been much progress in the last day or two(except getting a welder hehe), stupid highschool graduation is getting in the way. Hopefully after graduation today I'll be able to sneak onto the garage for a bit.
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but should I take the intake off and put it on again or just tighten it more?
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I still have some leaks between the intake manifold and the head, so I'm gonna re-install the intake later tonight or tomorrow and see if that makes any difference. Second though, should I just tighten everything more or re-install?
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I just double checked and I can block the hose from the carb to the aircleaner and it will run fine. it defiantly was starting to stall when I was blocking it the other day. I'll get a pic up in 5 min.
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the engine stalls when I block the hose that goes to the aircleaner from the front carb. same hose on the rear carb does nothing. I have sprayed carb cleaner around everywhere and I am pretty confident there is no leaks. A little experiment i did yesterday was: pull fuel hose to rear carb, crank the engine and see if fuel came out. It did. After cranking the bowl was dry, so I know fuel is getting sucked onto the engine.
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Firing order is 153624. so that is correct. I have checked multiple times that the plugs wires are on the right cylinders. Battery is charged. I tried 3 different plugs on the back cylinders = no change I laid the plugs on the valve cover and there was spark when I cranked it.
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Alright I appreciate the help. How do I make sure the spark is happening at the right time? the only think i can think of is a timing gun. I really haven't diagnosed ignition problems before.
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Spark is what I am starting to question at this point. although, when I spray carb cleaner down the throat the rpms rise rapidly so there's atleast something.
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Tightened the intake bolts. Some were kinda loose and engine runs smoother now but still not getting the rear cylinders to fire.
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ya, I have watched those vids on youtube. I put the float bowl cover on in a pan. cranked it and fuel came out the valve so I think that is good. I have adjusted the height of both floats. Also is there supposed to be a gasket between the bell and the carb body? if there is my carbs don't have it.
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Can anybody tell me if the jet, spiring, or needle are a problem?
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Pics: Jet (it is distorted could that be a major issue?) Spring (distorted as well but the piston still comes down) Needle (was pretty bent but I straightend it some and is less bent than the front needle) With the engine off the piston sticks probably 1 out of 5 times I lift it. but I haven't had it stick when the engine is on.
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I pulled the float cover off and the needle valve seemed to be able to be pushed in smoothly. Is that what you mean by check the metering valve? Thanks again, I really appreciate the help.
