at-jefft

what about outlineing them in some sort?

why don't you delete the black around the cars?

I REALLY like the first one minus the cars on top(top heavy). put them on the bottom and we got a winner.

ya the HELP! #38377 Worked really well for me. I had NO bushing in there when I got the car and the shifter feels like a whole different machine now. Well worth it.

I have heard 15%. If it were me I would only worry about wheel hp. afterall thats what matters right? (unless your selling the engine haha)

To clarify a it fell probably about a foot or so. but definatly not more than 2 feet. It may or may not have been slowed down by hitting the exhaust too. But ya, everything looks alright. I'll reassemble things and run it and hope for no problems.

O in that case.... Round the top corners and go with #1

#1 because the logo is centered They all still look more like postcards than logos. It took me until #3 until I realized the cars were there. I would try for something circular or at a less busy back ground

ya, I moved the u-joint around and it felt smooth and normal. Thanks a lot, Jeff

Hello, I am in the middle of a complete suspension rebuild(sandblast, paint, new strut/spring). I was pulling the differential support(mustache bar, etc) today and the jack slipped causing the diff to fall a few inches; After getting it supported again, I saw the driveshaft had fallen out of the talishaft on to the cement. How should I check for damage to the driveshaft, u-joint,... etc? Is there a good chance it is ok? P.S. can I look for something on the diff that will tell me the gearing? ya know "while I'm at it."

Also interested.

try putting the whole thing upside down and putting a cup of liquid PB Blaster under the tube with the nut /tube sumberged. That helped mine quite a bit. I let it soak for a good 3-4 days

they are normal right hand threads. Lefty loosey/righty tighty

Keep soaking it. I soaked mine for a week before they came off. Also I bolted it up to a spare wheel and had someone stand on the wheel for more torque on the assembly. Remember to use gravity and pull/push down so you can put your full weight on it.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/tokicoupgrade/tokicoinstallfront.htm Get acquainted to Atlanticz.ca, especialy the tech tips

PB Blaster for the win! Soak it in PB blaster and get the biggest pipe wrench you can. I had to cut the old strut as close to the nut as possible and put the whole strut assembly upside down and soak the nut/tube with cup of pb blaster.

Wow, If I had an s130 I'd be all over that(assuming the price was low) haha The only thing that bugs me is the non-symetrical duct in the front.

yup, thats where the antenna control is on my car

theres a green s30 in one of the new Mobil one commercials. Its in the "6min to soccer practice" part. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Videos/TV.aspx click on our tv ads then numbers.

AHH, Finaly an appropriate place to post pictures of my z. My Ratish 260z: I had nothing to do with the flat black rattle can job, Pics showed white hood, went to see the car, and it was definitely not white.

Ahh I knew I was forgetting something

Most are going to say put a turbo in it or sell and get a turbo car. If you can't do that my guess would be ignition and exhaust. If its cool to link to another forum here is a thread all about making n/a's faster: http://zdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=658&highlight=more+power+n%2Fa

Anyone daring enough to try this stuff on their bumpers? Haha but seriously I'm interested.

From the Sticky in the S30 Section: Interior. In general terms there were two distinct interior designs. The 240 was one, and then the 260/280 was the other. The 240 didn’t have to many interior changes through its production. The 260 interior was totally revamped. The 280 retained the 260 interior. In ’76, the shoulder belt mount point went from the “C†pillar to the strut tower, (seat belt doesn’t dig into your neck as much on the ‘76+ cars). Also, in ’76, the AMP gauge became the Volt gauge with a fiber optic charge light. In ’77 the only significant interior changes were the font style of the gauges and the doors received a total redesign internally, which relocated the window crank and the door lock switch. The door changes in ’77, (which carried over to the ’78), made for much heavier doors, but the window regulators were much smoother and the actual door striker design was totally different than the earlier ’70-’76 doors. Doors for the ’77-’78 will not interchange with the earlier doors due to the different striker design. In ’78, the speedo received KMH in small blue print. Either in ’77 or ’78, under dash foot well lighting was also added. In ’77, the Z received larger capacity fuel tank which encroached on the spare tire well necessitating the space saver spare, (the 240, 260 and ’75-76 280 received a full size spare tire), and also the ’77-78 rear hatch area now has a raised false floor which was to accommodate the larger fuel tank and that little deflated spare. Depending on which manufacturing plant the ‘77/78 was manufactured in dictated how the that false floor in the hatch area finished out to the rear. Some were flat level all the way back, others kicked up at 45 degrees to the hatch. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123516