at-jefft

Great, Thanks. Could you elaborate on the removal process? Its kinda hard to stick my face up there and to try and investigate how it comes apart, and not wanna puke.

hmm, I would if I knew where it would go. I'm not sure if the entire system is hose. It may be open under the fender. In that case I would have a dead rat in my fender.

Hey guys I really need your help on this one, Recently I noticed a bad smell while in my 260z(early). I found a dead mouse in the passenger side rocker panel, vacuumed it and its nest out and called it a day. I drove it today and got whiffs of the same smell. I did some searching and i can see the same material as the nest if vacuumed out in the passenger side fresh air vent. I'm sure there is another smelly bastard in there. My question is how do i get to it with a vacuum? The butterfly prevents me from sticking the vac hose up there and can't get the hose more than a few inches in from the rad support, where it starts. I looked in my fsm and cannot find the section where it explains the fresh air system. Is there another place where i can get access to suck it out? Can I disassemble the butterfly so I can stick a vac in there? Thanks, Jeff

OK, well I got the front cover back on with new gaskets and such. The water pump no longer leaks so: Mission Accomplished! I'm having issues with timing now though, I put the oil pump back on and put the dizzy shaft as close to the "1125AM position" as possible; like the fsm said. Engine was at tdc verified by looking through spark plug hole and taking valve cover off to see lobes. It only back fires when I crank. Have I installed the dizzy incorrectly? Also what color connector goes to the dizzy. I believe I switched the water temp and dizzy connectors but I now think I have them corrected.

Is this what you are talking about? Water pump = $20 Alternator = $35 Voltage regulator = $20 Dizzy cap+ rotor = $15 all prices approx. depending on which big box autoparts store you buy from. side note: don't buy alternators from autozone.

the guy probably didn't have the money or wouldn't pay up in the end. Also I would never sell my car to an idiot. I don't care how much money the give me, they can't buy my emotion connection to the car/house/(insert noun here).

well, cod 5(waw) is basically cod2 with better graphics and perks. The online play is amazing too. Anybody Playing Cod5 online??? PM me and well play.

well, cod 5(waw) is basically cod2 with better graphics and perks.

Call of duty 4 or 5 (world at war) Both amazing Battlefield 2142 is still pretty fun. Those are my 2 favorite FPS's Also if your looking for a decent game with amazing graphics try crysis.

I was thinking of using air and then pouring some oil down the chain. but to be honest it really wasn't my first concern. Anybody think jbweld would be better than lock-tite? I'm just thinking about thermal expansion and lock-tite. What kind of foam are you thinking of Kolonel?

o so thats what the autozone directions were telling me. They were obviously not written in english first. Too late to break it off?

Today, I picked up a helicoil kit and drilled it and tapped it. As I was backing the tap out a chunk of the weld came out but the helicoil seems to still have enough to hold. The hole is still not perfectly centered but I believe the repair will be ok for a while and it will certainly be better than no bolt(how i got the car). What can i fill the empy space left by the weld? pics:

Agreed. 550 or 600 is acceptable. If you are painting over a decent base coat (not primer) you can use a 3m scuff pad but in your case your gonna have to go 500/600 on the whole thing now.

What did you sand the entire hood with? Final grit?

What would be the advantage to drilling it out and putting a helicoil in; as opposed to drilling it out and tapping it? Another Update: I welded up the off center hole, and then re-drilled a centered hole.(still following) It was going good until I went up a few too many drill sizes(it was getting late) and the bit snagged and took some of the weld with it. I'm gonna try and prep the hole better and go slower with the drill but I'm giving it another shot.

Update: I got the cover off and the bolt had been drilled out a bit by the PO. The hole was off center. I tired to correct for the of centerness of the hole but It turned out that the hole I tapped was too far off to get the bolt threaded when the cover is back on. What now??? I figure I gotta start fresh some how. I have a cheap welder I could fill the hole and try again, would that be an acceptable plan?

Thanks everyone. I'm gonna go make an attempt to take the timing cover off now.

Ahhh, I knew there was a solution to this. What is involved it taking the timing cover off? Anything I gotta make sure of or does it just unbolt?

be careful to not have it pop off and hit the radiator!

Hey, When I got my car the previous owner advertised a new water pump was installed. He didn't meantion that the bottom (12mm) bolt was broken and had sheared off inside the block. The end of what is left of the bolt is recessed a in the block. The problem is that both my screw extractor and tap are too short to reach the bolt. I think my only options here are a long screw extractor or long tap. I looked for both online and could not find a extra long screw extractor but I did find a long tap but it is on ebay and have never heard of the brand. LINK Anybody have any other ideas other than trying the no-name tap on ebay?

O shoot, ya that one will suck, I saw the wire speed dial and saw 24ga metal, and thought it would be good. Don't buy it for auto body work, Plus you could get it cheaper at homedepot. I think its like 260 @ HD.

That should Do nicely, What I had trouble with was the welder I borrowed was not very adjustable and wouldn't produce a low enough amperage to weld 22ga steel for body work, but that one should work. I would have another member confirm it though.

It was white right? And the guy had on dress clothes?

lol, stock early Z manifold.

ya, that should work. Any spot on the balance tube that pulls a vacuum will work.