S130Z
-
Posts
626 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by S130Z
-
-
I don't see a reason why it comes on faster under WOT. Do you have a theory why it would come on faster? A huge pressure difference between where it was connected before maybe, making the gate open later.
If you think about the pressure loss through the entire intercooler system, boost pressure will be more at the turbo(his stock WG source), then at the manifold. The pressure at the turbo reaches max boost before it gets to the manifold. This being said, the WG will start to open later (if plumbed off the manifold) since it will see pressure later down the line.
-
I myself can't see a benefit to having it at the manifold as opposed to directly before the throttle body. Your going to get a good measurement after the intercooler which would be almost exactly what the engine sees. As soon as the throttle plate closes the BOV releases the pressure then the wastegate spring should do it's job. Applying vacuum to it may close it faster but It would be with more force.
How many people really hook their WG signal to the TB? Most of the time they either hook thier signal up to the turbo or the manifold. This being the most common case(being hooked to the turbo) when your BOV releases, your turbo is still spinning and creating pressure, as well as the intercooler system before the BOV will still be pressurized. This causes the WG to float open a little bit, allowing exhaust gasses to escape......you can figure the rest from there.
-
That is interesting as I have my setup like this. I see boost come on fast and strong. and gets back into full boost really fast after a shift. But I do get about 1-2 psi of creep.. hmm I might hook it up the other way to see if I get the same results.
My friend and I were tinkering with his RX-7 Turbo II and I proposed the idea of moving his signal line to the manifold. We did this and was surprised to see how much faster boost came on. We could actually hit full boost in 1st gear, as we were not able to do so before.
As for letting off the throttle....If you think about it, the sudden vaccuum on the WG will close the WG as to keep your exhaust gasses flowing through the turbine, thus keeping the turbo spinning just a little bit more between shifts.
-
He mentioned something about how 9psi wasn't a problem in one of the creep videos. What is looking strange to me is that in one of the videos the wastegate is hooked to the back of the manifold. I'm wondering if it's a good thing to have a wastegate go from pressure to vacuum like that. The Tial instructions say to hook up the pressure source before the throttle body. Other people have said that they've ran it off the manifold with no issues, so who knows.
Here is a list of some things that could go wrong that someone posted on a Honda forum.
-pinched diaphragm
-diaphragm is not sitting correct on the bottom half
-someone took it apart and didn't use locktite on the set screws that hold the valve in place
- you hooked it up to a vacuum source (which is says not to per instructions and i have said numerous times on here) and the vacuum sucked in the diaphragm and slit it
- the washers were not installed correctly (or at all) and the air fitting was screwed in too far hitting/damaging the diaphragm
I am very interested in this. I have heard one of the Admins mention that running the WG reference line off the manifold aids in performance. It helps keep the turbo spooled between shifts and gives you "true" boost to the manifold off the spring. Can anyone else comment on this? Good or Bad?
-
Did you choose the correct O2 setting when you configured MegaTune? I know I had a simialar problem because I did not configure MegaTune before hand.
-
I used to love drifting my 280ZXT.......then I had a bad experience. I ended up going through a shallow ditch after a 50mph mistake and broke my $400 fiberglass front spoiler in half. Ever since then, I have stopped drifting on the street ever since then. Luckly no one got hurt and I was lucky enough to slip between a street sign and a group of trees after I went through the ditch(It was a perfect gap to slide backwards through). It's funny because on the other side of the ditch was my buddy's body shop, I just so happened to coast into a parking spot before I came to a rest.
Needless to say, I no longer drift in my car anymore, especially after this $2k paint job. I will just leave drifting to the profesionals from now on.
-
Was totally worth it if you ask me.
Hahaha, I totaly agree! (Although I do have a feeling this may go to the shed)
-
I felt like someone needed to play the violin along side of me as i read that last post......
-
Now Juan, If you had just taken my word for it in the first place, we would not have had all this bickering
-
I am talking about that line.
-
Where dose the "crack" of thunder come from? This question may not be phased correctly. Not looking for lighting.
I know the crack from lightning is caused by the breaking of tripple nitrogen bonds(similar reaction that takes place in TNT) in the atmosphere. Could this be the same cause with thunder?
-
haha.
THIS was not funny......AT ALL! Time to make "harlequin ichthyosis" my new face book status!
-
I would go with the 8 7/8" because it is thicker than the 9.5".
-
Autozone. $20~. Order one for a 1983 280zx N/A.
And as for the trans, it does matter. I know this from personal experience. My Turbo trans took one size collar. Then my N/A trans (with same turbo flywheel and clutch) took a different size collar.
Edit: The trans is not the DETERMINING factor, it is a combonation of the trans and flywheel/clutch combo.
-
If you decide not to keep the heater, make sure you block off the coolant line that runs from the lower radiator hose(at the engine) to the back of the cylinder head where the heater lines branch off from. If you dont block this off, hot coolent tends to cirulate back to the cylinder head. And seeing how number 5&6 have cooling problems as it is......
-
The type of trans you have DOES matter. I had to experiment with this when I did my turbo swap. The stock N/A ZX 5 speed paired with the turbo flywheel and PP needs the longest one. If I were to use the Turbo 5 speed, I would have needed the second longest one. I would go with the second longest one in your situation(only because you have an adjustable slave).
-
I JUST took my cluster out of my 83 a couple of days ago. The guages will come out without removing the dash. I am swapping in the 4" Speedhut Revolution GPS Speedo and Tach. I have made a custom back plate to mount the guages in the stock location. If you are interested in going this route, I can cut you a back plate for you while I have all my stuff apart(it would just cost a small fee). I will have pics up when I'm done with the swap.
-
That is NOT supposed to look like that! Time for a new turbo! While your at it, get a bigger turbo, and got with a MegaSquirt ECU. But if you dont feel comfortable doing that, I would highly recomend a new turbo. I would also tear down the engine and check for internal damage.
Just curious, where do you live?
-
My wastegate setup is EXACTLY the same as Big Phil's, just to let you know. If you where to let the whole turbo go, how much would you be looking for?
-
You "should" be able to see a bad head gasket in a compression test. That is strang that it smokes like that with good compression. Run the car and see if you find bubbles coming up through the radiator, with the cap off.
BTW, what pistons are you running? Dished or flat top?
EDIT: Just talked to my lead tech who has been in the powersports business for 40+ years as a tech and he noted that a ring problem could yeild you good compression but still cause the engine to smoke like a dehydrated hooker being dragged across the assphault at 80mph. Time for a leakdown!
-
I'm not sure why Big Phil gets boost creep. My .63 GT30 (which is smaller, should creep more(unless my logic is backwards
)) with a 38mm Turbonetics Evolution WG holds steady at 15 psi on the spring. No need to go with a huge turbine side because your scared of boost creep. Just get the correct equipment for your setup. And as I said before, I may want it for my RX-7 if the price is right
-
Would you sell it? Sounds like a match for my RX-7. PM me if so.
-
Hey Phil, ever thought of turning the boost down?
Run a compression test and see what you find. I'm a little concerned about the temp of your spark plugs, 6 seem way too hot. I would go for at least a 7, but I prefer 8's. -
Anyone that was following allong, his ignition timing was off. He had his trigger angle fixed at 0. We got it set at 60 and it now holds an idle.
)) with a 38mm Turbonetics Evolution WG holds steady at 15 psi on the spring. No need to go with a huge turbine side because your scared of boost creep. Just get the correct equipment for your setup. 
Run a compression test and see what you find. I'm a little concerned about the temp of your spark plugs, 6 seem way too hot. I would go for at least a 7, but I prefer 8's.
S130 Speedhut 4" Tach and GPS Seedo conversion
in Interior
Posted
Hey guys!
Since my car have been in the booth for quite some time now, I decided to pull my guage cluster out and see what kind of fun I could have. I was able to pull the guage cluster out with the dash and steering wheel still in the car. It was a pain in the ass, but it is doable. I pulled everything apart and found out what I was dealing with.
(and sorry for the crappy cell phone pics. Better ones are soon to come)
After seeing how it all lays out, I figured I just need a suport plate to sit in behind the guage overlay to hold the new guages. I ran to Lowe's and picked up some 1/4" plexi glass and started cutting.
The reason I am doing this is because I hate my 80mph speedo and the factory tach is so bouncy. I was surprised at the horrible design of the factory tach after pulling it apart. I have had no luck finding a speedo that has a direct factory cable atactchment, so I started looking for other options. I did some reaserch and came across the Speedhut Revolution GPS 160mph 4" Speedo. The customization, features and it being a close fit to factory made me want this. I also picked up a matching 10k rpm tach. This is what I ended up with for a support.
This peice fits nice and snug behind the factory guage overlay. I painted the back of it balck, then epoxied the support peice to the back of the guage overlay. This is my mock up before I painted the plexiglass black and epoxied it all together.
Again, sorry for the terrible cell phone pics.
I had the paint and epoxy drying over night and will have it all put together and take full assembled pics of the cluster this afternoon.