BLKMGK

Cool, now that you two have hooked up can we have some more pics? I'm a V8 kind of guy but I'd love to see more pics of this swap.

Trans will not work. You're talking a pretty complete drivetrain swap here. check thorugh the archives and you'll see URLs for specialty places that sell LT1s and T56s. Figure on several grand at least though. After you're done you'll also discover that the stock brakes aren't up to the task and the cycle of upgrades will begin anew

Zcarfan - I suggest you take a close look at Mike KZs WEB site - in particular the last page of pics. Note the high mount AC and Alternator done with the JTR setback. It looks like Ram Air might be a hassle for us carb guys though but it's what I'm considering. As for Vintage Air - check this one out -> http://www.vintageair.com/universal/page14new.htm I think that will fit in the Z and supply the defrost and ducts fine. Big question is cost an dfitting it in. If no one else gets to it I'll try building a carboard box that dimension and see hopw it might fit but it'll be awhile. P.S. Why wouldn't the TPI setup work with an LT1? Water pump perhaps? I guess that could really limit your choices, I'd forgotten about the gear driven water pump until just now. Ewww! And the Chevy mag does indeed show conversions from V-belt. In that case I'd go with a V-belt bracket that met my needs and "convert". But then there's that darned missing water pump. I think th eJTR TPI book has a method of converting to a standard water pump with driven fan in it for LT1 but it's been awhile since I've read it. I'd suppose keeping that pump is important to you? [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited March 23, 2001).]

A big difference between th eHookers in Jeg's and the Sanderson other than material is sizing. I think the Hookers might be a bit small for higher powered apps whereas the Sandersons can be gotten in several sizes. This is one of the reasons I'm hesitant to get the Hookers and am looking at the Sandersons. However I'm not sure what size primary would work best with a 400+hp engine and which Sanderson headers will fit with the least fuss on straight plug heads (sigh). So, I've considered buying the Hookers uncoated knowing they're probably small, getting the car running and happy - possibly wrapping those headers, and then next Winter crossing over to Sanderson headers while the car is down for the weather. I do know that I'll go shorty no matter what. Some of the dyno tests I've seen haven't shown huge gains with long tube headers until obscene power ranges and the hassle and expense of long tubes really don't make me desire them much

Felpro also makes those sorts of gaskets for valve covers and instake too. the valve cover gasket # for SBC is supposed to be PN 1628 for perimeter covers. The one for intake is PN FPP-1256 and has posrts that are 1.23X1.99 inches. Naturally the HotRod mag article that gave me all of these part numbers doesn't have the darned oil pan part number! They gave a head gasket number too but I think that's more head specific and not "general"...

I know about the bulb condoms, I just don't like them much I'll probably try a couple of different things to see which looks best when lit up. Magic Marker just seems so easy and comes in a WIDE variety of colors. Fading might be an issue tho' - we'll see.

Thank you John! I will be headed to the GM dealer for those soon - much appreciated! I'll let folks know if my Mustang handle rubs when I'm done. I'll use the stock shifter at first to see if it is okay before jumping right to a Pro 5.0 shifter...

This site might be of use to some of you looking at the T56 install. It's apparently an alternate slave for the clutch - made of metal (ooh ahh!). It's sold by Pegasus FWIW. It alos look sas if extending the stock hose isn't too bad to do - I'd need a pair of male -4 ends, some -4 hose, and a -4 coupler. http://para.noid.org/~lj/StreetTwin/GirlingSlave.htm

Doh, and I've nto even BOUGHT my headers yet! Really though, it doesn't look too hard to drop in after the fact either. I'm stil deciding on which header to buy (sigh).

Speaking of boots - what about steering rack boots? And does it make sense to get boots for the struts? I've got a cracktear in at least a place or two on the rack I've noticed - is this a major undertaking too? (sob)

Yes, exactly. If you go with a taller tire you've got a greater lever on the brake rotor that will reduce the brake effectiveness. However I'd hope that a taller tire might have a greater contact patch - but I'm not sure. For my taller tire I'm more than willing to compensate with a bigger rotor though. They should be showing up for the front brakes here pretty soon - vroom!

Try this - find a Pinto and put in a Turbocoupe motor Or find a nice Vega GT and slap a SBC in it. How about a Datsun Z with a SBC? Oh yeah, that's been done! S10 pickup? GMC JimmyS10 bodystyle? Used ot be a nasty Jimmy aorund here - 2WD of course. My Vega was a blast but handled like garbage with big 'n littles. I even ran across a page today dedicated to Vegas. The Pinto is much the same thing - small light and will accept a V8 too. The Chevette is also WAY cool and not seen too often but I don't know how hard it is to swap in a V8 - guess I'll have to hunt URLs. I wouldn't go crazy with the motor though - you'll just spin the tires.

Okay, I'm confused! What's this stable thing you're talking about? If aftermarket is what you want both Ford and now Painless make a Ford EFI harness. The Painless harness is supposed to combine several smaller harnesses into one BTW. That help?

Thanks Mike - I read that other thread and ended up pretty confused! I can just leave it alone I think, would love to be able to remove the darned thing! As for th eA/C - Pete I'll look that up. I'm surprised it's not been a "hotter topic" nyuk nyuk nyuk Was it an aftermarket unit? I'm starting to wonder if removing the center panel, building my own, and installing one of those nice Vintage Air units woud make sense. Carbon Fiber center panel perhaps?

Heh, then there's the guy I saw - he tied a shoelace onto the bellcrank! Me, I did the JTR thing and bought one of those sweet Lokar cables. they look pretty nice IMO but the bicycle stuff sounds pretty neat too - I'd love to see a clear picture so I could better understand how it looks and works. My car has already had that bellcrank removed though - I zapped ALL extra brackets that I could easily remove.

I just sold a set of Webers on E-Bay from my car - I got nearly $400 for them Yours are cleaner but no air cleaners - you should easily get at least what I did I'd bet. If you go that route make sure you set a reserve as with a set that nice you'll want to be sure to get your money's worth. I've sold a few bits now including a 5speed trans and an R200 tonight. My Panasports are still for sale though - seems the buyer decided to go 5lug after seeing my car. He'll have fun drilling the rear I'm sure (shrug). Good deal man, I think you managed to do even better than I did, Congrats!

A tip for those of us who might wish for colored light in the Autometer gauges - use an El Marko marker in blue or red to color the bulbs While you're at it you'll find that those two colors are perfect for touching up scratches in AN fittings that are anodized I think I like the foam tape or silicone idea(s). I was trying to figure out how to hookup my gauges and fabricating a support in the back was looking painful - this sounds like it might work fine! I also hadn't realized that the ground is what was serving to dim the lights, I figured it was the hot wire! Pete, couldn't you just put a single resistor inline to the ground wire and allow all of them to go through it? Hrm, wonder what wattage would be needed to keep it from frying....

Yeah but I'm still slight confused as to what each part is - did we get a consensus? It does seem as if the skip shift thing can be ignored though - it needs juice to activate which is why they use a resistor to fool the computer when it's bypassed I suppose my question is - where to get the plugs for the various connectors? In my case I just need reverse lights and speedo'... Oh for the shifter handle - I found that a handle from a Mustang slips right on. They sell a few of these aftermarket so maybe pick up one of those? Check Jegs, I think B&M has one in there otherwise try a Ford mag or two.

Heh, let us know how they fit and please tell us how well they go in. I'm thinking I want shorty headers but I'd be interested in knowing how well long tubes go in. $600 is a pile but worth it to get good fitting headers instead of headers that don't fit IMO.

Okay, I bolted my motor in tonight - finally. I've also been VERY seriously considering A/C. Look to March and to Zoops for brackets. Yeah, they look like they mount high don't they? Looking through a Street Rodder mag I've got I realized that the compressor actually isn't real high! It appears to be just above the valve cover on the passenger side and slightly inwards. Try holding your compressor in that position to see if it will interfere. I'm seriously considering a Vintage Air setup inside BTW even though I've got the parts to convert the stock 240 setup... As for room in the trans tunnel with the motor setback... http://216.254.117.47/development/testweb.nsf/4691e0edd8a01bd6852569ae0075e9c4/bafd49c653c0410185256a170004d7fb?OpenDocument You'll not that I've run into interference in exactly two spots and it's close in at least one other. Oh, and I had to pund the brake line bracket down - wish I'd know that before I put the silly thing in. I'll have to pull the motor partially out but that fat T56 sits in there well with the trans tunnel not having been touched at all except for the stock trans mounts. If I were you I'd try sliding that puppy back with a hoist to see where and if it hits - I'm betting you'll be VERY surprised! If it will help I'll post pics of just how much room I've got up front of the engine and above the engine for accessories. I want my A/C too - who's done it?

Umm, I just got a look yesterday at a 94 or 95 Mustang 5.0 that had a little "problem". Seems th eclutch, not the flywheel, let go. It sheared ALL bolts off, exited stage right taking a chink of frame with it, shattered the trans bellhousing and case, AND took out a chunk of engine block with it including the starter. What was left look like a grenade went off inside and left metal everywhere. I have NO idea what this guy was doing when it went but had it gone UP instead of to the right it could've been his legs instead of the suspensionframe. I might try to get some pics of the damage just for funsies. Make me wish just a bit for a blowproof bellhousing on this T56! SFI flywheel is nice and all but this was the darned clutch that blew! Heh, so what did it sound like when that turbo blew? Lucky it didn't take out part of the fuel system and start a weenie roast (shiver).

Aww geez - now you've got me pondering the TEC stuff gain. I went DFI previously even though they were close but it was a plug-in install on the Mustang. Now with the Z I can run anything I want with no emissions concerns. I'll have to swing by there when the Z is running and see what they will charge me to convert to EFI and talk to friends to see if I can get a deal through them. Great to see them drop those darned software charges - very smart move! Will have to try and load up the software this time and take a really close peek - the old DOS stuff was actually pretty sweet...

Well - it's ALMOST in!!!! Here's how it went... Put handle at back of engine, turn for EXTREME tilt. Swing engine over and bring tail up slowly, slide back. Whoops - handle nearly hitting cowl - doh! Set engine down in bay, swap tilter around, doh handle hits boom! Remove handle and use air ratchet to slide it back and forth. Note black paint dropping into exposed heads and onto sealed up manfiold - grr! Vacuum later. Tilt, move, wiggle, tily, shove, wiggle. Drat - hoist is up against bumper and engine has several inches back to go. Doh, not that one motor mount is on backwards instead of "setback". Drat! Reverse engine mount and twiddle with tilter to get more room to shove engine back - sooo close! Support back of trans with jack and it's slowly going back! Okay, at this point the front sump is sitting lightly on the front subframe and steering rack. To go back further I may have to remove the tilter and I WILL need a second person to lift and wiggle the back of th etransmission - I got this far on my own. BTW - so far I've done NO banging on the tunnel at all and the trans is nearly in there. I hope to have a bare minimum of banging to do - hopefully it can be done without fully removing it too. Will be working on it on Wednesday night and the clutch slave too. It looks so purty in there, have to post some pics here soon - including the backwards setback plate! (lol) P.S. Should I have the distributor in there already? I'll be running NO hood latch but want to make sure there's room to put th esilly thing in later! [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited March 19, 2001).]

I'm not sure where you heard ATI had bad tech support - they swapped out Darius' blower after it blew. Friends of mine deal ATI and have had nothing but good support from them. That being said some of the older Vortechs work great for cheap However you said you wanted quiet - that's touch to get with a blower. The Powerdyne is quietest but I swear inthe few cars I've seen them in it was probably because it was barely doing anything for them (lol). ATI DOES have some "quiet" blowers too but having heard about 6 of them I can say it's not much quieter! I do seem to recall Vortech doing something to quiet their blowers down and damp some of the resonance off of the impeller but I've yet to see one in person. If you do really want quiet and sneaky I'd suggest NOS. You've got decent pistons (Hyper makes me nervous but...) so you ought to be safe if you keep it mild. Nothing quieter than a little bottle in the back

Aww c'mon - didn't I just see this below and answer it? Some of us read the old postings first and work our way up - if it's not answered instantly reposting doesn't help. Can moderators please delete dupes whenif this happens? I feel like an idiot for not seeing the dupe and responding in the thread everyone ignored - they're seperated by a bunch of other posts. Jamie nailed it pretty good but I'm pretty sure the HP for 85 was "only" 210. DO stay away from the 86 as not only did it have funky pistons but it also had CRAPPY heads that were a one year experiment. Oh, and 85 had the quasi dual exhaust I believe so there's likely extra power to be had with good exhaust. 86 was rated 205 but with 300ftlbs or so 87 was back up to 225 all the way till at least 93 but Ford did some sneaky things under the covers in some of those years so don't take it as gospel.