BLKMGK

In a rod I agree, this puppy would rock! In a Z I'm not quite as sure since it's not been done. I'd bet that if you asked them for measurements and whatnot they'd be happy to provide them. Heck, the wow factor alone makes it pretty interesting just make sure you factor in what the induction and headers could cost. They don't yet have block huggers right? I didn't notice but do they have EFI harnesses ready to roll? Note too the cost of valve covers and be sure to check out what mounting things like an alternator would cost. Would be pretty darned coool

Another trans to consider would be a well built 200R4 - I believe at least one member has had good luck with them behind V8s and is what's in Scottie's GNZ. The advantage to a 200R4 over the 700 is size - it's supposed to the same length as the TH350 so the drivesahft could probably be reused. I'd double check that this is indeed true though before picking one up. Oh, and since the 200 isn'r as popular the core migh tbe a bit cheaper too JTR says that the speedo stuff might be a bit more difficult to adapt too so keep that in mind.

That won't be just the fuel curve you're fiddling with - you'll be changing timing as well. Honestly, and not to burst your bubble, but I'll be surprised if it nets you much. OEM folks tuned that puppy to the best of their knowledge at the time, if they could've gotten more MPG they probably would have. Try it and report back though as you'll never know till you try. Is the car mostly stock or modified? If it's modified, especially on a MAP based system, then you'll have the best chance of improving on the factory's programming. Good Luck! P.S. What's the stock voltage range on that sensor? Keep that in mind as if it's very small you'll want a potentiometer that has a very small adjustment range and vice versa...

Doh! Sounds like DOT5 isn't quite the panacea I thought it was. Hrm, so it doesn't eat paint but has lot's of other bad properties? Guess I had better check what's in that BIG bottle out in the garage I've been using for so long (sigh).

The Mitsu's were famed for trashing their diffs and their clutches - the reason? Seems they're heavy pigs! I'm not real sure on weight but I think it's up near 4K, ouch! Ordered my clutch Monday, it showed up today Sprung hub, normal organic clutch. It's billed as an OEM replacement clutch by RAM. Considering that the OEM clutch is supposed to take 400HP in a car that weighs considerably more than a Z I think it'll be fine. Heck, if the stock clutch had been in good shape I'd have used it! Remember, the OEM application weighs in at like 3300-3500lbs, our Zs ought to be in the 2500lb range. We'll see here pretty soon I guess. $500+ just seems like highway robbery and is what they charge for RX7 clutches too darn it. Just seems awful high to me.

Heh, who sees the edge of the REAR rotor? BTW - I was educated today on the difference between the GT and Cobra rear brakes - the Cobra has vented rotors all the way around. We noticed this on a "Jack Roush" Mustang in the shop. This car had his name plastered on it - count 'em - 19 times! With Cobra fronts and GT rear brakes. Both sets of rotors were crossdrilled AND slotted - overkill?! Looked at the rear caliper - gold iridite steel I think, ick.

Miata seats - comfy! Short too. I've seen them in a beigefawn kind of color and black. Leather or suede both. Another possible seat - RX7 seats Comfy and both leather and suede can be gotten. Same color choices though. If these seats interest anyone I can take some measurements off my car, they can usually be found at www.thepartstrader.com I think I MIGHT have seen blue for sale too but I'm not sure. (shrug) Note that the RX7 has holes up by the headrest tailor made for shoulder harnesses - an intentional design feature I'm told

This bothered me so I did a little bit of research for ya' The clutch setup that I just bought is for a 93-97 Camaro/Firebird LT1. I think you're okay, I'm sorry for scaring you - I wasn't sure when the crossover was. Whew! Question still remains though - do you really want to use something other than an OEM setup? I think someone else posted that the OEM part could be gotten for like $50 at wrenchead.com and the Tilton master might be needed no matter which way you went so... How much would you really save? What's the benefit?

Well, I just took a look at a Ford 4.6 that should make a good 600+ hp and live - with 15+lbs of boost Too wide to fit in a Z I think and I don't know the weight but for 283 cubes that pretty nice! So, how much better is the tunnel intake vs the stock one? I seem to recall that the motor is symetrical and that this is why they can turn the intake 180 degrees, yes? What kind of revs do they see? Torque? It certainly has some visual impact. It's pretty neat, as technology gets better we get higher HP motors with smaller displacement. Nothing beats boost!

Stock hood is #30, SubtleZ hood is #15

DOT5 is the silicone stuff right? If so that's what I'd have probably used! The reason is that the silicone fluid boils higher, doesn't absorb water, and oh yeah doesn't EAT paint. It's that last that I really like, that and not absorbing water to eat up myinternal metal parts and turn brown. Hydraulic fluid is a noncompressable fluid - works like a cable would in your Ebrake only it can be routed all over the place and exert far more pressure. I'm puzzled as to why thickness would be an issue unless it was being forced through tiny little holes or seals somewhere? I guess I'm just not sure I understand why DOT5 would be "bad"...

Thanks Lone, after I posted this I stumbled across it in the NEWEST Summit - apparently they've just begun listing it. Should be here tomorrow I'd have responded sooner to thank you but I got either food poisoning or the flu and am just now cathcing up. For $300 that clutch sounds liek a great deal. Pressure plate, clutch disk, TO bearing, and alignment tool! Wish I could do that well with a clutch for the RX7...

300ZX has an R200 rear. That's a 200mm ring gear - the 'Vette's have about 230 I think. The short answer is - it'll hold up to at least 400HP but Ujoints and halfshafts could become an issue. You'll break other things before the rear itself goes..

LOL! In my case I'm going with the OutLaw stuff in th eback - partyl for that very reason. The 240SX stuff is iron and pretty ugly not to mention heavy. However I'll still use a solid rotor - no one will know if it's vented or not and if I had a real drive to make it look sexy I could always use a slotted rotor (shrug) BTW - I actually WANT a Maxwell house muffler - a pair - on my Z when I'm done. If I could find one that muffled halfway decent that didn't cost a zillion bucks I'd do it too. This owuld be to suck in all the import haters and Honda punks of course

Heh, I've got DFI from a previous vehicle. Just you wait - I've seen RPM jump from say 4K at one point to 6K the next with nothing in between! The CPU in the DFI is an older slower one and it's data rate isn't super fast. It'll work but realize it has limitations.

Even if the engine isn't as far back as you'd like - setting it up for JTR isn't too much work. Motor mounts, driveshaft, hood latch - not too bad. I WOULD suggest that you buy the JTR book though just to have a good desk refrence. Also, it's got a TH350 in it now - you'll probably want something with at least 4 speeds or maybe even a stick. That driveshaft coould end up being modified regardless...

Make sure you check for RUST. Look under the battery tray and along the frame rails. I'm betting you'll find at least some where the battery is - don't get too worried unless you can see the GROND under the battery. Yes, I've seen this before (shiver). Engine mounting can be fixed easily - especially if you know how to turn wrenches on a Camaro. 300Z rear - ask if it's limited slip. Chances are it's simply a 300Z LSD pumpkin which is what I'm doing, if it's not LSD then the fact that it's "300Z" is no big deal. Pay attention to what brakes are being used, big motor need big brake or you go Boom! Good luck, sounds liek you may have found a winner and if you've read any of the threads here where prices are concerned you'll find that the car you're looking at could be a serious bargain!

Yeah, I vote bushings! I had this EXACT same thing happen in a Vega. That was a live rear (9inch) and the control arms had come loose just a bit. When I stepped on the gas the arm would move a little bit and I'd need a quarter turn of the steering wheel to keep it straight! Very little movement can make a BIG difference up front for the driver. I'm betting you've got bushings hammered since with an independant rear the whole thing shouldn't be moving. Are you using DelAlum bushings, stock rubber, urethane, or what? If this happened suddenly one of them probably crushed or squirted out

Hrm, I've never added up my costs I agree that the JTR book is first and foremost on th elist before you even buy a car! I'd also consider the TPITBI swap book they sell. www.jagsthatrun.com BTW. So far I've got liek $4600 in my motor, $1700 in my trans, $300 in my clutch, $300 in my distributor, probably about $1200 in brakes, and I'll have another grand in wheelstires if not more. Purchase price on car was $6K in VERY good shape. I've added 'glass bumpers and hood so tack on about $2K with the paint work, parts prices, and shipping. Oh yeah, $1K in a cage too. Ouch, that stings! About another grand and I shoudl be ready to roll - thankfully I've done this over time Oh, and let's not talk about the $3K I sunk into a car that I ended up using for parts and then giving to Mikelly for $100 (*sob*). That's what happens when you're not patient trying to find a rust free car in VERY good shape. I stopped working on that car when I found out what bodywork and paint were going to cost - $5K to START with! So, but the JTR book, find a GOOD car that needs NO bodywork. Interior isn't that big a deal as that stuff can be found used. Figure the motor and trans prices are a must and you'll want brakes real soon afterwards. If you do an LT1 with EFI make sure you reseaech that cost as EFI has some quirks of it's own to consider.

Within the last couple of months one of the HotRod type rags has run a series of articles on these motors including some dyno runs I thought. All done up with billet ($$) they look REALLY nice! I guess before I got too excited about it I'd want to know what sort of HP they make - anyone know? That would certainly pop some eyes when you opened the hood though Very nioce site that as linked but where are the dyno sheets? (sigh)

I'd heard that a trans blanket was coming out for the T56s - honestly I'd prefer a blowproof housing given a choice. I've been told that "blankets" can absorb oil just liek header wrap can. No biggie until something gets hot enough to catch fire and then it's damned near impossible to put it out! I spotted a generic blanket in the latest Summit that I considered, guess I'll have to look closer for a T56 specific one. As to the smoking - one to tow quarts?! What's the oil pressure? It almost sounds like an internal plug is missing inside or something. Low oil pressure would also be a result fo that. If I had to guess that I'd say one of the head gaskets leaked - probably from adding sealer to the surfaces. Smoke from a breather in my past experience has been blowby, not sure why just the one side. If you hammer it does the dipstick get pushed out some? Any smoke from the dipstick tube when you pull it? Really weird....

Your T56 is out of a 97? Didn't 97 use an LS1 motor? I thought the LT1 ended in 96 yes? IF my memory is right on this then you may have a problem as the LS1 T56 is a whole different ball 'o wax. Input shaft length and a few other things were different. Otherwise, assuming I'm wrong about the LS1, I'm not sure what TO woudl work. Are TOs specific to splines or anything like that? Mikelly's experience was that the throw for the clutch on a T56 had to be right on. A balancing spacer was enuogh to really screw him up there for awhile. Honestly, for what the hydraukic TO will cost you I think you'd be just as well off using a regular T56 slave. Maybe one of th emetal replacements that's been talked aboout here if you don't want to get one out of a junkyard or pay the king's ransom GM wants new...

Dang it! I went through their catalog last night and thought I'd found one. However earlier tonight I went back through looking and couldn't find it again! Please tell me, what part number was that sucker and where in the catalog? That's not as cheap as I'd like but it would be pressure plate and all - for less than the Centerforce unit. TIA!

Seems to me there's not really much of a need for a vented rear rotor - it's not going to get nearly the abuse that the fronts do. It does occur to me though - since we're looking at trick custom rear brackets anyway, is it worth maybe looking at something like the Mustang to see if their caliper could be adapted? It's got the type of E-brake hookup that we'd want in that it's not some sort of silly drum brake in the hub. Just can't recall how many pistons and what material it's made of offhand...

Yup, it's about time someone offered a 17inch drag radial in something that's not 300+! 245 is just right I think, it's about time. Unfortunatly I've yet to see prices on them - I'm betting they won't be cheap or easy to get for a little while. Sad to see those wheels go though man - they look great! I think the 17's come in at aorund 22lbs apiece don't they? That doesn't seem too bad...