BLKMGK

Sounds like an interesting motor to me. If I'd known about it I'd have been tempted to be honest but 400 blocks are a bit hard to find. I did once talk to a guy who destroked a 351W Ford. He said it revved faster than any motor he'd ever had and really seemed to like it. I don't recall the size but if your motor acts liek that it'll be perfect for the Z. Good luck, and please let us know how it works out.

I had a Carter pump on the firewall from the previous owner. He had all sorts of rubber in there but it was pretty stiff - damned loud I'm afraid...

Okay, I'm finally putting my R200 LSD in the car. After figuring out that the Moustache bar was bassackwards and having to disassemble a BUNCH of stuff I got it in. However, the solid mount I've got won't bolt up! I can get one bolt in if I turn the mount (maybe) but then obviously the second one won't line up. Naturally I had to unbolt a bunch of stuff to even get the long bolts through the diff (sigh). Do I need to push the Moustahce bar back some (flex it) in order to get the front mount bolted up? This is the same bar that came out of the car - I'm puzzled. It's been a long time since I pulled it all apart so maybe I've screwed something else up? Help! Here's a page of pics-> http://216.254.117.47/development/testweb.nsf/4691e0edd8a01bd6852569ae0075e9c4/54f18bfcc388fe7285256a210078b926?OpenDocument

Mike, have you laid out the harness and just looked at it? I think it's in a couple of parts and I can probably help a little. I'll hunt aorund some - have you checked to see if there's anything in the SVO book that might help? Maybe Ford sells something...

Pete, my 383 balancer is about 6.5inches tops. I've got comfortable room between it and the crossmember - no worries. If you're using stock stuff then yeah, the 400 balancer is a pig I guess Note that the crate motors like the ZZ4 have ot have their balancers swapped out too.

Hrmn, Canton CAN 11-102 sounds possible at only 6.5 inches. I figure I'll run this one and see what sorts of torubles I run into first. Pete - all I've ever seen in Jegs or Summit has been circle track pans which are baffled for turning right only I think. I'll look again and see. The 'Vette pan might really be a better deal. In talking with Lone he said his Goodwrench pan is above the level of his trans so maybe that would work as well - no sense getting too much higher than somehting liek the trans or crossmember is there?

Some of this has to do with mounting. I've got a Paxton cofee can pump on the Mustang - from inside it's louder than the motor! But it's solid mounted and I foound that some Dynamat on that piece of sheetmetal helps a great deal. If I rubber mount that sucker it ought to be even quieter. When I cut down my moustache bushings I made sure to save the pieces. I figure I might be able to use them for pump mounting. I also saved the rubber pieces the previous owner used on the pump he mounted - that was still too loud You'll hear the blue from outside the car I'm sure but from inside I'm hoping I can isolate it enough not to care. Down the road I'll be EFI anyway so this is only "temporary" for me...

Okay, here they are -> http://216.254.117.47/others.nsf/bf1cfce3711ab30d852569f90083bfc3/0fe10a10c40cdc5585256a210057e467?OpenDocument Note that this isn't linked off my main page and is about 200+K. If I have some time I'll cut that file size down. This is off a 144K connection but should load okay. John if you've got others you'd like posted or a description you'd like put up just let me knw.

They do sell wheels for trucks.... As for calling and haggling, nah - I don't do that. Set a reasonable price on the goods you wish to sell and I'll pay it. I'm not into flea marketbazarre (sp?) haggling Mind you, the wheels ARE probably worth $400 each but I'm just not willing to pay that. Hell, the FIKSE wheels on my friend's Cobra cost over $500 each and are damned sweet but he nearly had a heart attack when the alignment dork dimpled them with his gauges. I don't want that kind of worry, I'll pay less for other rims and not cry so much if something happens to them.

Pete, I thougt about that. Cyberdyne makes just such a gauge but I'm not sure what range it has. Would want to look and see what senders their "outside air" temp gauge and maybe their "water temp" gauge uses. If it's the same.... Combining them might work, we kicked this aorund at work. A friend of mine seems to think he can gen one from scratch just as easily but time has been an issue. Scottie, I'll let you know Might be as soon as two weeks.

Tevor - those couplings are often used on FWD cars. As th emotor rocks fore and aft they had to do something to hook up the exhaust to keep from snapping it off. Should be some OEM stuff out there you could use if you need them...

There IS a 'Vette oil pan for one piece seal motors that can be used that's low clearance. I considered this pan but stupidly went with a Moroso added capacity pan. Imagine a standard GM pan with about another inch tacked onto it - doh! It hangs lower than my transmission and a touch lower than my frame rails. Yes, dinging that is a serious concern of mine right now. However to go back to an L6 just seems stupid to me. Before I did that I'd have a custom pan made - lot's of places can do it. Pete, those road race pans sound very interesting - any ideas on cost? I'm thinking "not cheap"

Killing a litle torque is fine by me but for th elittle HP gain I'm not sure the spark plug hassles are worth it Mike, are your heads andgle plug or straight? I went with straight in order to skip header hassles - I believe thei rsite mentions straight plugs working best. Let me know if they're absolutely for sale as I need to get that finalized. Right nwo I'm not sure who will do my exhaust. I know Robert does awesome work but he's not exactly next door to me. There's a shop in Fairfax circle that did work for my Mustang that was flawless that I might speak to when the time comes, there's also a guy in Manasas that I'm told is good but I've never used. Since I've still not decided on mufflers I'm not sure what I'll do. On the one hand I think the punk ricer mufflers would be fun but I don't know how loud they are. On the other I know I can get the car pretty quiet using something lke a Dynomax Ultra muffler. I'm going to wait to cross that bridge - I've got a little ways to go yet...

I believe the Holly Blue uses a "deadhead" kind of regulator. I've only briefly pulled mine out of the box but that's what I recall seeing in there. Also, I think there might be two Blue's - one geared for street and the other more strip oriented. The strip one is preset at the pump for a slightly higher pressure I think. been awhile since I shopped for mine to be honest so I'm not positive.

Had the same problem pulling my halfshafts - I thought maybe there was a bolt I'd missed. After recieving advice here I slipped a crowbar under the flange edge and gave it a quick jerk - out it popped! Just had to get a little leverage is all...

Speaking of finned covers... If anyone has one in good shape I'd be interested in buying one. Mine's got a fin or two snapped off and I'd really like to have one that's in better shape. Purely for aesthetic reasons mind you Bolted my cover on today but have yet to install the diff in the car. Fun Fun! P.S. I painted the diff black. I think a better choice woould've been something liek a cast aluminum. I think it's looks weird with black and cast aluminum bolted together (shrug).

Mike - if it's placed correctly it can prevent the front AND the back from doing damage. Obviously if it's a REALLY long driveshaft that might not work but you get the idea. I believe NHRA is more worried about the front than the back anyway. Lost the back and it beats up some sheetmetal and hopefully you've got th ebrakelines done right so it doesn't hit them. However if the front goes it can polevault the car - doh!

Oh heck and I was just in the garage too. I'll look tonight if I can remember - I'd forget my head if it wasn't screwed on! Sorry man, no sign of it (sigh). I may have given it away or it might be what's in the Mustang now - I'm just not sure. I've got to goto my friend's shop Monday night to pick up some parts, I'll ask him what he's got in the way of clutches. Anything else you need? Lemme' know. [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited April 01, 2001).]

Heh, lot's of us are running T56s, not sure there's many running 700's. You might also try the Drivetrain Forum - that's where most of the transmission stuff is going on

Looking for info onthe T56 I stumbled across this site -> http://www.geocities.com/ls1montecarloss/ Yeah, he's doing a Monte Carlo but he's posting good details on things like fuel rails and oil pans that migh thelp out interested folks here. That's going to be one nice Monte when he's done!

Uh boy, I might have screwed up! Lone mentioned that the bolts to hold the sheetmetal flywheel cover on were "weird" so I've ordered a set from the dealer. During my visit I got a peek at the exploded line drawing of the trans. Where exactly does that cover bolt up?! On the drawing it looked to be behind the flywheel but that doesn't make sense to me. Does it have to be bolted up before the trans and motor are bolted together? The drawing looked like it did - if so I'm hosed as my trans is IN the car with the motor and no cover (sob). I figured it would be like the cover used on auto transmissions and could be bolted on later. Did I screw up? Need to know ASAP before I bolt down the trans mounting.... Oh and naturally only one of the pigtails was in stock, no screws, and the parts cost me more than what everyone else is paying. It figures... Okay, I looked closer and Lone was nice enough to send me a pic. Whew! It DOES bolt to the face of the trans behind the flywheel but it CAN be done after the trans is installed, in fact I think it has to be. I got up under there today and checked it out - whew! Think I've got my clutch fork finally right and just bench bled the slavemaster. I'll bolt that up later tonight maybe, already tapped a spare fitting that goes on the pedal. Will bolt the trans mount up tonight too. [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited March 31, 2001).]

http://www.kaynor.net/v8-240z/ Go for the brace. It's VERY nicely made and he was quite quick with shipping it. It's aluminum and heavy duty - even the hardware for it was impressive (IMO). Nice pic btw - makes mine look like garbage - couldn't get a good shot. Hrm, need to send him my hangers back. DO pay attention to the leftright markings on the hangers he sends you - it makes a difference. My markings were lost at the powder shop and it took a few tries to get it all setup right. P.S. Found out the size of the rear cover bolts! Metrix 8X1.25. Will be ordering stainless buttons for mine If others are interested I might be willing to buy extra and polish them for a small fee..

I will ask the owners permission to post, if approved I'll put them up for everyone. I believe he's a member here too...

I've not got a pic but... One thermocouple goes in the inlet pipe, one goes in ther outlet pipe. Both sensors are wired to the gauge and it gives you the temp difference. Move inlet sensor as required to get different readings. For instance - place inlet sensor at air intake and outlet sensor at throttle body. Temp on gauge is difference over your ambient (?) intake temp - or the effeciency of the entire turbointercooloer system! Or - move inlet sensor to the intake pipe of the intercooler. Now it reads the HOT turbo compressor exhaust. Temp on gauge is the heat that the intercooler failed to remove! Effeciency of the intercooler itself can be evaluated now Gauge is 2 5/8ths and black faced. Neat huh? Apparently not hard to make either but I'd really like a digital gauge. The digital one I was hunting had a 3 way switch on it - pos #1 was inlet temp, pos #2 was outlet temp, pos #3 was difference between the two! Very nice, very easy to make for an electronics person, and no one seems ot make them except ONE darned company who wants WAY too much for it. I can dig up URLs if this is interesting to anyone. Pete want to make some money? I'd buy one of these in a heartbeat if it was digital and not a fortune! Hey Scottie I just realized - you're out near Cocoa right? I may be driving down (ugh) in a couple of weeks! I could pack this sucker and meet up one evening. Dinner at Fat Boys maybe? [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited March 31, 2001).]

Drax - for some of those parts you listed you can do VERY well buying used. The BOV for instance can be had pretty easily through the Supra, RX7, or maybe even the Mitsu forums. I've got a Greddy BOV on the RX7 and picked it up cheap by simply watching the RX7 forums for a deal. Same with the electronic boost controllers and all sorts fo toys. Lemme' know if you need URLs. E-Bay is also awesome but know what it's worth efore you consider bidding on anything. I've bought and sold maybe $6K worth of stuff this year and not been burned. (shrug)