BLKMGK

The vents are supposed to help. I switched to a cowl hood with those vents for just that reason - not sure it would be of much help with a stock motor but I'll take all I can get with a V8

Please document the frame mounted mirrors. I've got th edesire for new mirrors but am not sure what to do with the existing holes so I'm holding off for now. I DID see some very nice carbon fiber mirrors in Racer's Wholesale though Just not sure the base is big enough to cover my existing holes.....

IT'S IN!!!!!! Grr! I had to again flip the front mount arund which put it close to dropping in with the moustache bar bolted up. I then pried lightly on the rear and it dropped in the hole at last. Whew! I dumped the rubber piece, we'll see how the angles work out and then if the solid piece is too much consider using it again. P.S. Found a second pinhole in my aluminum cell! It's like the gas is eating the tank?! I'm getting sick of this....

Couple of things... It's not just torque killing T5s - it's weight. Mustangs and Camaros weigh MUCH more than Zs. My Mustang weighed in at over 3500lbs and th eT5 in that car lived behind a 450hp motor making a TON of torque for well over a year. I beat it to death one day and the next it went - in went a used Tremec that shifts like crap. As for grinding - yeah you don't have to grind BUT there are two posts on the passenger side that I WOULD advise cutting off. Not sure what they're there for except maybe to protect sensors during the install but they poke out like little spikes - dump them. My T56 went in with no issues to speak of and I banged VERY little on the tunnel. Up front by the bellhousing some and a little in the back. A prybar was used to clearance things a little more after the trans was bolted down - no biggie. 6speed is heavy but I expect it to shift better than the Tremec. If it's as good as my old T5 I'll be happy. I'll start with a stock shifter and then consider an aftermarket one. I expect to have the torque to pull 6th, I don;t think my motor will be too high strung for that...

There's a couple of ways to fix this: 1) use liquid teflon on the existing junction and reseal. Let it dry and try again. I'd try this first... 2) buy another slave w/hose and do one of the following: a) remove the roll pin at the slave, cut off the existing hose from the junction block, drilltapthread, run a new hose from a fitting in the new hole. Problem is there doesn't look to be much metal in that block. cut the existing -4 hose at the top near the master. Extend it with two straight fittings and a union. Problem here is that the Tilton masters use a -3 line. You might be able to find an adapter or you might be able to extend the -4 with -3 line and an adapter at the junction. Last but not least -4 holds more volume so I'm not sure what this would do to pedal feel with the -4 being used. Anyway, I looked seriously at all of these ideas when I did mine. However I already had ALL of the parts to do what everyone else had done and tap the plastic slave so that's what I did - with teeth gritted! It SEEMS to be fine now. A metal T5 with bleed screw might not be too expensive and worth a shot tho'...

Okay, I'm back and tried it again tonight - damn thing dropped right in up front! However... in th eback th enuts are barely tightened down. As I tighten them the moustache bar draws down on the uprights - not cool. "Eyes" of the moustache bar are forward, if I were to flip it over the bar would be in front of the uprights toward the front of th ecar. Drat! Ideas? Should I take more pics to post? I have a second bar that was supposed to be out of an R200 car that even says R200 on it in yard paint - that matches this bar perfectly... Help! Oh, and should there be any sort of rubber on the back of the diff? Isolator of any sort? That might acocunt for the weirdness?

Do coil overs and modify the strut if needed. The coil over only replaces the spring setup, not the strut itself. It's about $400 for all corners and will require some fabbing for a mount to hold the threaded tube - no biggie. This will retain the isolator as you desire and is what will be run on my car - purchased from MikeSCCA.

Cool! I was wonderin'... Of course I now also wish I still had one of those hubs as I'm trying to figure out how to fit the 300ZX hub I've got onto my 240 spindle - doh! No biggie, hope they work out well for you!

Okay, if you wanted to fit 245s could you change a measurement and get them in there or are rolled lips mandatory? Glad someone dove in before I did - I'm sure I'd have screwed it up...

Heh, I just found out there's a VintageAir dealer dealer within blocks of my house! I think I might know where my blower upgrade and A/C will be coming from Okay, I'm a wimp and it won't be cheap but I'll take the easy way any day...

What year RX7?

Just an FYI - when doing the 351W swap in a FOX Mustang there's a little trick that can be used to gain enough hood clearance to fit under a stock hood and may help you here with the EFI intakes... Pull the upper and lower intakes and have the mating surfaces between them milled at a machine shop. This could gain you as much as a half inch or more! Look at the pad on the upper - thick no? Now look at the lower with those nice deep holes - little too tall to fit? When doing the 351W swap on my Mustang I tried a set of "drop" mounts that dropped the damned oil pan right onto the rack. Switched to regular mounts and the EFI was pretty high. Switched to a milled lower and I was fine - upper remained stock (cowl hood). Food for thought....

I'll be working on this next week, no time before I head to Florida this week. Right now th earms are the same as before except one I replaced, it was identical to th eone it replaced except it was straight This appears to be a NorthSouth issue. I THINK what I will do is put it up there one more time with the front mount bolted on and see how far from dropping in the front hole it is. With the cover bolts lightly started it was VERY clode. However when I torque down the cover bolts I'll be drawing the moustache bar to the cover. I'm not sure how confortable I am with that...

I live in Virginia - ouch you're in Washington state! Hrm, I wouldn't want much for them but shipping would kill you, you should be able to pick some up out there pretty easily I'd think. I don't really havea price in mind so a fair offer would be desired, shipping however could be $40 or $50 if not more...

Tranny will have a thingie right out of the speedo hole. In older MAP cars this was simply for cruise control and not in every car. In later MAF cars this was there so that the computer would know when you were coming to a stop. Some MAF upgrade kits have this connection, the crappy ones don't and supposedly run funny. The SVO MAF conversion is the be$t I've ever seen...

Look up Jim Dingle and PPI Performance onthe WEB - he'll have them I'll bet. As for stealing from cop cars - ask a cop about it. Apparently it's done often even in the police lots! Kids do it as a dare and as some sort of initiation around here. Sheesh!

I did it on my 'glass hood. Instead of making new holes for the pines I simply had the bodyshop pull the stock hood bumpers out in back and put th epins in there. I used Sparco aluminum pins that don't have those goofy lanyards or crappy chrome to rust. When I bought those Sparco pins I also picked up some of the standard chrome "hooks" to replace the missing one's on the Mustang. The darned chrome ones are RUSTING on the 'Stang after sitting out over the Winter. The Sparco's cost more but look better and there's nothing to lose at a show - they can't be stolen. I'd do it over using the JTR bracket.... Do realize though that there's no inside th ecar latch to keep jerks from popping th ehood one night while you're sleeping. An alarm at the least would be a good idea if not other steps too. Speaking of JTR latches - I'm not going to be using mine if anyone wants to buy it

Hrm, should we convert that puppy to an MP3 for the modem folks? And I think it sounds VERY nice Lone. I actually woould be pretty happy if my car sounded liek that. Not real nasty, low rumble, maybe sneak up on a Honda or two Single Flowtech right? [This message has been edited by BLKMGK (edited April 04, 2001).]

Okay guys - here's what the winged Canton looks like on a Z and no it's not mine

FWIW - parts places that sell AC Delco shoudl also be a source for these parts I was told. The shop I deal with took delivery of these for me from th eGM Dealer and laughed that I'd gone through them instead of th elittle AC Delco place around the corner. Live and learn

Still working this one. Bench pressed the damn thing off my chest about 4 times last night trying to get it "right". Lifting it this way seems to work best This is the SAME bar and mount that I had in the car with a previous R200 darn it! Could the LSD be shorter somehow? I think that slotting the (red) forward crossmember might be an option or I'll have to stress the moustache bar. Before I realized I had an R200 I ordered another moustache bar. When it showed up I had already removed mine - comparing them they were IDENTICAL. I have the bar in the car correctly behind the risers... The holes on the solid mount are offset from the stud and it seems like everything wants to be centered like Dan said. One of the ways I put the mount on makes it VERY close to the hole but even using a prybar I couldn't quite get it to drop in. Slotting may be the answer I guess. I'll snap a shot of the other moustache bar to post Wednesday. Drat, this was supposed to be aneasy part with the exception of lifting the darned thing into the car! Perhaps before I do the final fit I'll snap a pic of the mount. It's the MSA mount and looks just like the one in their catalog. They know my car is a '72 and I told them this was for an R200 - it should be the correct mount for this application. Oh, and I've put a small piece of rubber under the stud - Pete, do you think this will change driveline angles very much? It may lift the snout by as much as a 1/4inch. I've lopped the moustache bushings, have I just negated that by slightly lifting the snout? I can always switch back later but it might be a chore...

Yes exactly, no return line. Upside is less plumbing, downside is hotter fuel.

Heh, I've been told to bolt the FRONT mount on FIRST and then bolt the back side on and use the nuts to draw the moustache bar down. Geez, too simple huh? I wanted those back bolts in first because it weighs a ton and was a PITA to press up. My jack helps but to do it right a trans jack woudl work best. Oh well, I've got a plan now at least! I feel silly...

Nooo, I posted that elsewhere. I'll try over at my friend's shop. Off the top of my head there should be: TPS MAF water temp air temp 2 O2s 8 injectors pigtail to distributor EGR junk Hookup to tranny - it needs to know speed fuel pump relay That's all I recall. IF you need me to I'll snap some pics and take some notes off of my Mustang as it's all together. Note - there are some grounds on my harness that if unplugged will prevent the car from running - don't ask My Haymes manual has some wiring diagrams in it but it's pretty cryptic. What exactly does Windsor Fox DO to the harness?

Umm, a longblock is simply a motor that has heads etc. on it. A "shortblock" is a block that has a crank, pistons, rods, etc. on it but no heads. Maybe not 100% accurate but you get the idea - if this wagon is "complete" it's got a longblock and what you need. As for the trans - the 700R is a 4speed trans. They didn't have those in 78 I don't think. That trans will be 3speed with NO overdrive I'd bet. Not sure which trans it'll be - I'd guess TH350 but with my luck it would be something weird I've never heard of and I'd be wrong.