BLKMGK

Can't use the flywheel - you'll be forced to buy a pricey Centerforce unit. Not sure about the mounts but the rest you can use except for the master. You may or may not want to use a piece of th estock line - I did rather than drilltapepoxy the slave. YMMV...

BTW - cutoff switch in my car is on th eground side as I felt that was safer in th eevent of an accident. However in testing I found that it doesn't cut power to the car. I believe the alternator is putting out enough juice to run things up front so if you're considering this setup be aware that you'll likely need a relay on the alternator (sigh) All the techs will care about is that the motor dies when they hit the switch IMO. The Summit aluminum battery box is what I used mounted just ahead of the rear tires in the center between the cargo bins. I used a lightweight battery and did this in order to put the weight where it might assist handling as opposed to acting as a pendulum way in the back...

No hardline for me - why woudl I want it? You CAN run hardline though - they sell aluminum and I think stainless fuel line. You have to run flare stuff on it but that can be gotten from most any Jeg's catalog. Question is - do you really want high pressure fuel running through a piece of aluminum? I'm not real comfortable with that. I'm actually considering using some of their pushlock hose - it's damned sturdy! I'm just not sure I trust the connectors - for higher pressures they must be crimped apparently and I'm not sure iof that procedure. Braided AN stuff on the other hand I'm pretty used to I think the plan is so run two pieces of -6 back to front. I could use one -6 and the stock line to save some cash but I think that's kind of silly. Might as well do it "right"... Will be a little while before I do it though.

Well, my original idea seems to be shot in the A$$. I'd been looking at a setup that used a cast manifold. For some reason I believe that HKS had made a cast manifold and that this was a copy of it... Well, it seems that this cast manifold was nowhere near as good as I had thought, hasn't got anything to do with HKS, and probably is less than "optimal". Here's the thread that led em to this -> http://www.supraforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20985 The setup I was looking at was about $3K. I've since found a nice Greddy setup for $3500 new in a box but guess who's NOT got the cash at the moment? Dammit! The Greddy kit still isn't perfect but it would've worked. So, it looks liek I'm back to drooling over one of these -> http://www.sound-performance.com/parts/turbokits.htm About $5500 for the turbo and manifold etc. Check out the nice wastegate though My big problem now is injectors and a fuel rail. I've found a used set of injectors and a used rail for $600. New rails go for $400 (?!!) and injectors cost a ton. Just not sure I want to do the used setup. (sigh) Who has a good cleaning service for these puppies? Grr, I hate this....

Check out th esetup on my site. My cell is where th espare was and has a sheet steel plate over it with a little "house" to cover the door to the filler. It's a PITA to fill through the hatch but it meets regs. My battery is in a sealed box with a vent - it also passes

That's a deal - my 1st T56 (don't ask) was $1700! At the time I wasn't finding them any cheaper (sob). Before sealing th edeal spin the shaft and run it through the gears. Pull the drain plug too an dlook at th efluid. In my first trans the chip magnet had come loose and gone through the trans - it was UGLY. Destroyed the whole box too Does it come with a bellhousing? Slaves are cheap, if you've not got an LT1 you can't use the flywheel, you'll probably want a different shifter anyway. DO try to get the shift knob though!

Headlights, schmedlights - I want the whole car. I was outbid though (lol). He wanted anything over $15K - had I known I'd have given him $15K and skipped the auction trouble

Yup, I've heard of the Indygate - what's it cost? Supposedly he's got a very nice controller that will allow you to run different boost in each gear to keep from breaking traction. THAT would be very nice as losing traction is one thing a Supra does very well!

I've done the same Jamie - same pump too! However it seems really weird to me that so many things like filters don't seem to come in -8. I guess I'll look around some more, maybe I'm just not recalling things correctly. This IS for the Supra BTW, th eZ will be running much the same thing except th eSupra will run two in-tank pumps instead of a single one outside. I may just run a pair of lines up front but I guess that means 2 filters too Y'ing them in the tank and then splitting them at the rail to feed both ends seems ineffecient too. No way would I risk just feeding one end of that long rail though

How much fuel can a -6 line feed in a high pressure situation? Will it flow enough to feed say 650-700HP? What about a -8? It seems that many regulators, filters, and other things come in either -6 or -10 and I know that -10 is too big for what I want. I'd like to do this without having to buy a dozen -10 to -8 adapters as it seems to me that just hurts flow. Suggestions? TIA!

Looking at a wastegate for my Supra. The vendor I'm speaking to uses a Turbonetics wastegate but says that long term it can have some issues. I know DIDDLY about wastegates. Can someone educate me? I realize it's not a Z but certainly some of the experience applies across the board. TIA!

Try this and you'll find the answer to your question. I would say though that as a 15year old driver who has likely just gotten their license I would NOT suggest a V8 swap. You're not talking about just a little bit of added speed - you're talking major changes in power with a reasonable build. Without some driving experience you're very likely going to get hurt and the Zs aren't exactly built to the same safety regs that we have today. Be very careful how you proceed, this isn't a hard swap but it makes for one fast car. Start by using the URL above and by visiting www.jagsthatrun.com and buying their book on how to do it. That's the "bible" for this swap and should be one of your first purchases....

Never saw a price for that turbo kit - what's it going for? Think there's a snowball's chance in hell of it fitting a Z? It's tight to the motor but...

Soem of the Supra guys are a bit much - it really doesn't help that there are some guys out there who join those forums JUST to be jerks, I mean that literally. They make smartass answers to question just to see blood boil, it's sad really and I'm thankful we don't have that here. The Supra mailing list is better IMO, lot's of tech talk and less B.S. however if you post a truly stupid question on there you WILL get flamed. These guys are simply sick of answering the same questions a million times. Sometimes I feel that way here too and I know others do as well but hey, it happens and so far we've managed to hold our tongues Hrm, and as for cost to make 450RWHP with a Supra motor - you can do that with the stock turbos and some tuning Recall that mine made 389RWHP with A/F as rich as 9:1! I also confirmed that my HP curve was really screwy because of the way my fuel cut has been bypassed - my second turbo isn't being properly prespooled and that's BAD. $75 part fixes this BTW. I intend to fix that ASAP with a complete aftermarket ECU but I'm also looking to go single. Cost for that with a T66 will be $3K or so. NOT cheap but it'll get me into the 500RWHP arena with a USABLE HP curve (I hope). That's sans fuel setup though and I'll want an aftermarket intercooler too. Still researching injectors (sigh). What do you reckon it'll cost to turbo an LT1 or other V8? The T66 I'm looking at is $900 alone

Heh, don't let this thread die yet RX7 injectors I'm told to look for should flow WELL over 550ccs. Apparently those aftermarket rails use top fueled injectors, maybe the secondary injectors on an RX7 and not the primary? I wasn't given real clear info on those injectors and they require an aftermarket rail anyway supposedly. There ARE rails out there for Bosh injectors but I'd need like 72lb injectors and those are BUX. The custom rail is $347 too I'm looking for a side port 750 or 820CC injector. Talked to a guy tonight who said the stock rail can be modified for AN fittings and flows fine - cost is $50. He runs his STOCK 550cc injectors at 100PSI and they flow enough for his high powered application. He says the Skyline has 820 or 850cc injectors that would work but cost $150 each I don't wish to run 100PSI - no way! So this is a possible alternative maybe if I can find those injectors. Heelp! Also - he's able to sell me a cast single turbo manifold, T66 turbo, pipes, fitings, etc. etc. for $3k! That's about $2K less than some of the other kits out there that use longer runner welded up headers. T66 I don't know from Adam but he claims it'll make mid to high 500RWHP for me and not spool like a slug. He's out of Detroit and has access to lots of OEM supplies which is cool .71 AR I think we were talking about - turbo would run me $900 or so. Good price? Small turbo? I'm turbo ignorant (sigh). I've got to get fuel and electronics squared away first! He told me there's a VW pump I can run on the Z as an inline comes from a "A1 Rabbit" and is made by Bosch? Ring bells anywhere? Might be worth us looking into here - he says it comes in a rubber sleeve and isolated mount so it's pretty quiet. He's got an in-tank Bosch pump for the Supras that supports tons of power but I think I'm going dual Walbro GS3341s. He claimed the Bosch only pulled 12amps though which is pretty nice! P.S. For those pondering the Supra's IRS - it's rear gear on a 6speed car is like 3.13:1 and the 6th gear is like .79 so keep that in mind.... [edit] Oh, and I'm dying to know how the older Supra engine works out in a Z! I don't think they make the power as easily but they DO make big power done right. PLEASE keep us posted - pics too, lot's of pics. As for porting heads etc. - yeah they do. Supra guys change cams and port heads just like everyone else. They just don't seem to NEED it as badly as others. Remember - this is a 4valve engine and that helps. The intake has some funky flow issues too and the EGR can overheat the #6 cylinder so there ARE some areas to be careful with. Some guys are spinning them 8K+ though Some stuff to read-> http://www.powerhouseracing.com/catalog/supra_turbo/supra_turbo.html and http://www.supraforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20269 (watch the video - wow!)

Was the rust under the door itself or underin the rocker? IF it's the rocker be VERY careful - in order for rust to be visible there it will usually rust from th einside out and that entire rocker would have to be replaced. Not a fun job! The rocker is a structural piece too. If it's the door itself then it's not so bad and can more easily be replaced. Be sure to check under the battery VERY closely and under the front fenders - this is where rust is often found. For $200 you can't go wrong IMO - it's a good parts car if nothing else.

Impallas ALL had 350cube LT1s - never the smaller engine. That same chassis had the smaller engine but it was called a Caprice. The iron headed 350 in the Impallas was down a bit on HP - like 250 I think. I'd try to find an aluminum headed engine. Our 95 Impalla SS has a vented Opti I'm pretty sure. I dunno' when the switchover was but you can upgrade or vent an older one if you really want to...

Appreciate it?! Hell, I want to drive it!

If those are what I think they are it's not really ABS. Those are pressure resevoirs - th eidea is that the brakes never have a warp free surface. As I understand it as the warped part comes around it sends a pressure pulse back through the system - since your foot doesn't move (or even feel the small ones) the brake surface receives higher pressure and can lock up easier. These resevoirsvalves dampen that pressure pulse and prevent the lockup. That's my ROUGH understanding of these things having seen them reviewed in the distant past. Overall count me unimpressed. The review I read had them stopping a few feet quicker - but also mentioned changing brake pads and possibly tires so.... inconclusive to say the least. I believe it was Turbo Magazine that did this...

Kewl, those are Latham superchargers too I think - I can tell by the case. Very nice

Give that man a cigar - he's gettin' it! Now, if I could just get about a zillion Mustang bench racers to understand this. Ever hear some of these guys talk? i'm runnin' 15lbs of boost and you're only running 10 - I'm faster dood. When you sit down and look at the pullets, what compressor they';re running, the CUBES, and other things you can find out that the 10lb guy is making WAY more power. It's just not as obvious from his boost gauge

WOOOT!!! I'm NOT running flares. My tires are 245 45 17 Nitto 555Rs with coilovers in the back. I'm a C hair away from rubbing on the spring but it doesn't rub at full droop Sitting on the ground it's better but still pretty close. I don't think I could go wider on my wheels. I've got no spacers in the back either right now which is cool

250 front, 225 rear I believe. MikeSCCA says I've got them bassackwards so when I get motivated to swap my stub axles out and install CVs I'll also be swapping the springs front for rear.

There's a rice rag out there that has an article on this. I looked at it and noted that in the article he tubed the ENTIRE front end from the firewall forward It looks liek he may have a kit that doesn't require that but on a modern car car I don't see this swap going anywhere - emissions are getting too tight IMO unless you just want to drag race it. It couldn't be done here legally...