BLKMGK

Formula? Decent running SBC, decent shot of nitrous, say 125 horse or so?, set of Nitto 555R or BFG drag radials, and a good transmission. Oh all right, put a cage in it so you don't kill yourself Seriously, for the weight of these cars what does it really take? Not much more than this I'd think and it would be pretty streetable. Mine's only putting down 300RWHP and it pulls REAL hard. I've not yet timed it or even tried to launch it hard but it certainly feel like it ought to be in the high 11s or close to it. Get the secondaries working and I ought to hit 350RWHP! Figure 2500lbs, good traction since Zs hook, and how much HP to hit a mid 11? Who's got the formulas? We could call this a recipe car since it's what everyone wants and then we'd be able to easily answer this question. Andrew, how much power does your car put down with and without juice? Would LOVE to see some dyno slips... P.S. I never did scanpost my dyno sheet. Will dig it up and post ASAP!

Umm, I'm not sure th eExtender is terribly available despite it's being in th ecatalog. I'd also point out that the Fords, like almost all O2 equipped cars, do NOT use the O2 sensor for WOT. As such I'd be real interested as to how the Extender changes WOT A/F ratios unless it simply monkeys with the signal or modifies internal tables. If you guys really want to tinker with the EEC-IV I can dig up some EFI links. There's at least one fairly decent priced box out there that's user programmable. Unfortunatly it's software isn't as advanced as say the GEN7 DFI or the FAST system It would require some learning on your part but it's under a grand... (shrug) I may have posted it osmewhere here before, name of the box is escaping me right now.

They may cause loss of flow but I'd prefer that to loss of hearing or income via tickets. I'm going to have two Dynomax bullets put into my exhaust system along with the new headers if things would just slow down a little in life so that I could remember to call the shop and setup an appointment Sad huh?

Lookup some of the 510 sites. I realize that it's not a Z but th eZ engine bay is actually bigger. The 510 guys have documented this on at least one site pretty well. Figure you could do the same thing only not have to notch the firewall I think it owul dbe a neat swap but you'd want to find a 4series gear for the rear and turbo that sucker for some real fun!

Though thtis link sent to me by the FAST people migh tbe of interest http://www.fuelairspark.com/common/information/presentations/fast/001/Default_fil es/frame.htm It's a presentation that one of their engineers gave at a conferenece concenring EFI technology. Not sure there's anything new in it for those of us who understand eFI but for those just learning perhaps it will have some value. I'm still reading through it too so perhaps there's some neato' bits in there I've not yet seen Okay - slides 27, 28 and 36 ought to be of particular interest. 27 and 28 show the response curves of both normal O2 and WB O2. You can sort of see why the voltage meters everyone uses on normal O2s don't work real well. The voltage curve given for the WB is probably AFTER a little black box that smooths it's response curve out, my understanding is that that little bit of electronics adds to the cost noticably. The sensor itself ain't cheap either. Slide 36 will make the most sense if you've got EFI experience and have looked at the FAST software. The lower screen shows the datalog of a run. As you scroll across the bottom map you would look at the upper map, which is that motors VE table. At each point on the lower map the VE cell that's being used at the time the datalog was created is highlighted AND tracked (it leaves a little tail as it moves in the map). So, if you see a dip in the A/F ratio logged by the WB sensor you can look at the VE map and easily see which cell needs to be modified. There are functions for smoothing the surrounding cells too if I recall. You can do this same tracking with ignition and other tables too I think. DFI GEN7 will highlight cells but it won't "track" with a tail. Frankly, FAST did it better from what I can see. Dunno' yet about the AEM software - the Beta stuff out there is apparently GEMS which the rally guys use and VERY flexible (you can suppposedly program LOT'S of triggers etc.) but pretty crude for someone who doesn't know much about EFI and exposes some seriously low level functions that no other unit I've seen exposes (sensor specs for instance). Talking to people who DID approach the AEM table at SEMA I've been told that it will actually modify the VE fueling maps to hit your programmed target A/F ratios Dunno' yet if th eothers can do this or if the AEM unit does it on the fly or not. I'd think postprocessing would be the best way to go for that. Okay, enough rambling. Hope someone gets something out of it at least

Put a relay on the headlights, trust me. It's not so much the fuse I'd worry about as it is the combo switch, with high wattage bulbs the switch MELTS. Ask me how I know...

If the unit doesn't cost about a grand then it's using an OEM O2 sensor - t that point th ecircuitry is pretty much just a voltage meter. There's a WEB site out there that specializes in making these more sensitive in the ranges where folks would want to tune fo ra few bucks, if anyone is interested I can try to dig it up. I think I might have posted it here way back when. As for the WB models, a grand is actually cheap! The new ones are using a WB OEM O2 from an LEV vehicle, either Honda or one other. It's a VERY durable O2 that is really helping out the EFI community. I actually ran across one of these units for sale today on either ThePartsTrader.com or the Supraforums.com Head over to those two sites and check around in the ForSale section under Supra When I ran across it I couldn't recall where I'd seen someone looking for one (sigh). There's a guy in either the TurboBuick forum or the ChevyTalk group that can help you piece one together yourself too but it'll still be about a grand. The DIY EFI group is also building them - price about the same. The sensor is NOT cheap but it's long lasting, prior WB sensors had lifetimes measured in hours and had to be calibrated with special gasses - yuck! They also cost multi thousands of dollars until fairly recently. What sorts of information did you want to know about them? The older style O2s are most sensitive around stoich or 14.7:1 A/F - the new ones read accuratly across a wide range of mixtures. Since peak power is NOT made at 14.7:1 the WB units are preferred. The others can be used but recognize that on either side of 14.7:1 their accuracy drops off VERY fast....

Heh, can ya' do carbon fiber? Not for me mind you, I'm afraid my cage blocks th epiller completely. I DID try to test fit a Mustang pod on there one day just to see if it woudl fit since I had one. It was ugly, lot of work to make that fit I'm afraid...

Ya' know I'm a little confused. I've got 225lbs up front and 200lbs in the back. When I stomp on th egas the back feels like it's going to bump it's butt on the pavement and I kringe waiting for the wheels to bump up inside the wheelwells. To me it feels pretty soft but it also bounces around like a truck on stiff roads. I've been considering upping the rear spring rates. While I've never bottomed the rear wheels in the wells I'm worried I will! Am I just not used to the squat? I'll admit breaking Ujoints has made me paranoid, should I leave it alone and see how it works out with CVs? I was actually considering going to 250lb springs!

Sodapope - the gear oil has friction modifiers for CLUTCH LSDs - it would do nothing for a viscoous LSD. If this is a true viscous LSD it will indeed have some sort of special goop. If you read about you'll see that when the fluid sees slip it locks up and gets hot - imagine what would occur if gear oil did that

Get the clutch slavemaster (you can use the line if you want), the shifter w/knob, maybe the boot too. Electric fan if it's got one (think it does). Maybe measure the radiator but don't get your hopes up Dunno' what else - anything you can get I suppose

DynoJet here is $80 for three runs, no tuning except minor stuff. it's amazing what small changes can do to HP and hwo back to back runs show nearly identical HP figures - it seems pretty accurate. Runs are made in 3rd or 4th gear, nitrous pulls are wild to watch!

WOW! I'm DYING to see those pics! Seriously, congrats BIG TIME - that's awesome. Cannot wait to hear how it all ends up. Any trouble mating the trans to the motor? Details man, lot's of details!

I've had urethane bushing squeek on toher cars but honestly so far th eEnergy ones in my car have yet to peep at all. I've been pretty surprised too since th eamount of grease they provided was a joke! If anyone buys their kit buy an extra tube of grease too. Hrm, didn't someone say they were going to find out the name of some grease that could be bought cheaply in bulk for this awhile back? Anyone ever find that?

There ARE a couple of consumer available widebands out now. Cost is right about a grand. If this is of interest lemme' know and I'll start prowling around in the TurboBuick and ChevyTalk forums to find the information for you. Both of those have pretty decent EFI forums and this is part of what they talk about. Wide band rox for tuning and when I decide on an EFI ECU it's a must for me. I've been told by someopne who went to SEMA that the new AEM ECU will be self tuning using the WB too - you set the desired A/F in the map and it will adjust the base map on the fly. Sweet! We'll see when it comes out if it can do this, if not it CAN datalog the amount of change and to what cell - just like the FAST and DFI GEN7 can.

No way to change the viscous fluid inside though huh? I know some of the AWD transfer cases can have their goop changed to different thicknesses and was also wondering aboout the R230. I want one - someone make a kit Seriously, I think it's a good rear and if all the bugs can be worked out (driveshaft adapter, CVs etc.) I'd be interested in slapping one into my car and selling off my clutch unit.

Ooo oooh! We got one of those new motors in our spankin' new Pathfinder! The woman just had to have one It looks, at first glance, like the 300ZX motor. Not super big or anything and according to the sticker it's rated at 240HP even with our automatic if I read it right. If anyone is super interested in this motor lemme' know and I can try to put a tape measure to it when she's not looking It doesn't look super big to my eye. It also doesn't seem super fast in the big truck but I've yet to drive it and she's not exactly a lead foot...

Hrm, would the motor out of a Supra fit? I looked under the hood of one the other day - exhaust on passenger side, intake on right. Single turbo and twin turbo manifoldsheaders exist. The engine HAS been put into an FD3 RX7 and speaking to someone who saw it in person at SEMA I was told it dropped right in with NO cutting evident. Can you imagine that beast in a light 240?! I'll try to take some measurements when my Supra gets here Yup, I found one! But it's in Kansas City MO so it'll be a little bit before my paws are on it.

Whistle - can you say air going supersonic past the throttle blade? I've got that problem on my Mustang and I've heard it on other cars too. The crack of th eblade is just right and it whistles! The BOV on my RX7 does that too when I have the throttle just right. Vac in the intake but boost in the pipe apparently, whistles like mad! Are you sure both vac guages are right? Are they sourcing vac from the same place? Neither has a crimp in the hose and the hose isn't collapsing? MAP sensor could be wrong, is it's refrence voltage okay? I'll bet that would screw it up if it wasn't receiving the voltage it expected as a supply... Just some ideas - oh and Autometer boost gauges can sometimes be a little off it seems so if that's what you're using that MIGHT be an issue. Let us know what you find!

There's a page on my site with pics on how I did it but it applies to a 240Z. Look in the Pics section on my site - it's in my sig. If you have trouble finding it lemme' know and I'll find the exact URL. Site really need to be organized better (ahem).

Heh, use the search Luke! http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=search We've been over the headlight thing a few times. Relays are your answer and the search will reveal much my son. I'll bet you've got WAY less than system voltage at the bulb right now! The dashlights I'm not sure has ever come up. I'd start by checking the bulbs - if they're old they're probably filthy! The rheostat that controls dimming is probably a bit hosed too. If you can get it out from under the dash try bypassing it and see if the lights brighten much. IF they do then it's a big part of the problem. Some tuner cleaner sprayed inside it if you can might fix that. Otherwise I'd be checking fuse box connections to see if any have corroded - they'll heat up and melt if they do Something has to be supplying low voltage to the lights - start simple and work your way up

The LT1 in our Impalla SS (for sale!) has 109K and runs GREAT! Opti finally went and that's an expensive repair but 100K+ on a well maintained Lt1 is okay IMO - ours still runs great.

Why the "chained" MSD boxes? Rotary? Looks kewl though!

Heh, I think you guys covered it well. However my understanding of TBs has always been that the motor would take what it needed if the TB was "too big" and that it wouldn't hurt anything. Tip in throttle response sux of course but I didn't think that the power would be hurt since the restriction past the TB ends up being the bottleneck. Progressive TB might be nice for my project, I don't need a hair trigger thanks! Still need to send my intake out to be converted (sigh). Just haven't had time!

I've got some of those HD magnets - wicked strong! However I'd NOT, repeat NOT, put them on the outside of my pan. Most oil pans are ferrous themselves, you put that sucker on the outside of your pan thinking you'll pull it offdrain and the bits will simply stick to the now magnetized pan! I think a MUCH better place for this type of thing is on the outside of your disposable oil filter. No issues with the silly thing, you just toss it out when you're done. I also like to magnetize my dipstick so that when I pull it out I can get a quick check on the amount of debris in the engine I run magnetized drain plugs too, a permanent one inside th epan might not be bad either but I'd make REAL sure it was epoxied very well. Remember what happened to my first T56? Chip magent broke free and wandered through the gears - the resulting magnetized slurry trashed the entire $1700 tranny! I think they even sell magnet rings for oil filters - ever seen the pics from when they've cut them open? Ewwwww!