BLKMGK

Oh - the central question as to why you don't see them out there... First - not many of them are around and they aren't cheap. Many are quite simply dyno queens. Look at the power curves some of these cars make - 150RWHP at say 2K but by 4K they're putting down 700. What will hold that sudden spike of power to the road?! Seriously, go look at some of the dyno sheets on SupraForums. When they're put in the hands of someone skilled though watch out! Single digit ETs are right there. The SP63 kit I mentioned above - it's good for 10s tuned and driven correctly Traction for a Supra is very hard to come by... Road coarses? Supras are heavy. They have awesome brakes but they look a little like a hippo on skates. I'm still feeling mine out but it's no RX7 that's for sure! Come the first straight though and i'm zipping up on you Some do roadrace them but not as many as say the 240Zs. The power curves for these cars are probably just not terribly suited for it. I put a (modified) 2001 Lightning truck curve up against my Supra's dyno sheet the other night. The Lightning made power faster and held it longer than my car. In two cars weighinghandling the same I'd have been eaten alive even though my car made just a touch more power on the top end. Peak horsepower, while cool for bragging rights, is NOT the be all end all....

Okay... I'm a HybridZ member who just happens to have purchased a Supra TT so I think I can speak a little bit about this. I'm still learning but.... To get 600RWHP you need a single turbo kit (SP63 is my choice from SoundPerformance), dual fuel stock or Walbro pumps, upgraded injectorsrail, front mount intercooler, and fuel management. In my case the fuel management will be AEM's new PnP ECU for $1365. Those mods ought to get you 600RWHP. Maybe a few other little mods like fuel lines and cam gears (15-25RWHP) but mostly that's it - single turbos on these cars rule! They sell cams too but for this power level I don't think it's needed... My car is presently mostly stock. It has a K&N cone filter, downpipe, exhaust, and free mods. Dynoed this Saturday right off the street my car made 327RWHP (stock is 320 at the crank) on stock boost which is around 11PSI. I reset the ECU and got 338RWHP. I then pulled the wastegate hose and got 389RWHP and 427ftlbs with about 1.4BAR. My fuel ran down to about 9:1 on that last run and there was a sag in the curve just before the 2nd turbo came online which is apparently caused by one of the free mods. I've actually found out that I'm down about 50RWHP with those numbers from some of the better tuned cars. The free mods done to my car are poor substitutes for doing things "right" but let me tell you it's a wild ride! My next mods will be to put the electronics back to stock and add the AEM ECU to tune things "correctly" rather than tricking sensors as I am now When done I too wish to push 600RWHP on a single turbo! That's on the stock trans and rear too. The clutch has already been replaced Drivetrain wise I should need to replace nothing else. Some things about the Supra you ought to know - stock fuel system can run 550HP. Compression is 8.5:1 and headgaskets seldom blow. Boost as high as 30PSI is run with little worries so long as you don't go lean Stock bottom ends have taken over 800RWHP and 600 is actually common on stock bottom ends! Go into the SupraForums dynoperformance area and look at the dyno sheets, it's sick. Some heavily tunedmodded cars are making 900RWHP. Launching one of these pigs is the trick - my rear axle tramps pretty good when I've tried. Never race a Supra from a roll or on the highway - when he hits full boost and can put it down without fear of spinning he's GONE! It literally feels like a roller coaster ride in my car. Many Supra owners have mentioned not being able to get traction until 4th gear - in second it's dicey for me and the car darts like mad, 3rd isn't too bad but I've not done many WOT runs in that gear yet. I'm running 275 Nitto drag radials BTW and I might move up to 315s if they'll fit. I could go on but you get the idea. These motors are stout, flow lot's of air, and so long as you keep the mixture right won't blow up. Making that much power in a car that streetable really isn't that expensive but the price of admission - a Supra - isn't cheap. I paid $27K for mine (sticker was $51K BTW) and I'm sure I will be $10K deeper into it before I'm really happy. If you put that drivetrain in another car though it should be MUCH more economical. Motors and transmissions pop up for sale on SupraForums somewhat often. Toyota shortblocks are like $2500, ported heads as low as $1500, transmissions for say $1500. The turbo could cost $3K though. NOT real cheap but the power is sick and it's certainly a different swap If anyone has any questions I'll try to answer them, I'm NOT an expert but I'm learning just as fast as I can which is why I've not been on this board quite so much. This car is the GN of the 90's guys and I'm happy to say I own one. Now if I could just sell my RX7....

How much enforced? As much as the dork who just pulled you over wants to enforce them! They might let it slde 99% of th etime but if one of these guys gets a burr up their butt they will cite you for everything they can find

"yeah yeah thats great, but with all the upgrades from huge ball bearing turbos which are at least 3000 for the pair, fuel managment another 1000, injectors fuel rails, not to mention the intercooler it all adds up, to achive that ... " Umm, first of all ball bearing turbo(s) aren't needed. Most folks are skipping them as their benefits haven't been realized for the cost. Second - hi-po Supras run ONE turbo. It's been found that a single spools nearly as quickly if sized right and costs half as much - not to mention the complexity you skip. Singles DO cost BUX though but I'd point out that my car - running as rich as 9:1 (argh!) put down 389HP and 427ftlbs (at the wheels) on STOCK turbos. Yes, the boost was pushed to 21lbs or so but Supra motors can take that In fact if the turbos could move the air I could go even higher say 25lbs or so (!). My built 383SBC made 300RWHP on what looks like just primaries. I'll get more with EFI (I'd better!) but I promise you the 2JZ is more streetable at the 600RWHP level. For that matter if I run a turbo capable of 600 700 is just a knob twist away - and maybe some race gas (lol). Fuel management - yup a grand. No getting around that - how will you do that cheaper on a "built" EFI V8? I'm looking at $1600+ to do my (V8) fuel management and maybe not even that cheap depending upon my choices (sigh). Injectors... Gen2 RX7 injectors and a built rail. Or buy the SP railinjectors for $900. Yup, ouch! However the stock injectors are good for about 550RWHP supposedly. I'm trying to find out how to do this cheaper myself using the RX7 parts but it may not be worth it. (shrug) Intercooler - NPR baby! It fits the Z and costs nothing like a Greddy etc. Scottie - what are you running? I'd run what Scottie's running and save some cash on the intercooler! So - to get to 600HP in my Supra here's how I hope to do it, should be much the same for a Z swap: AEM ECU - PnP to stock harness. They make a "race" version I may use in the Z too. PnP is $1365, race a bit more (shiver). Dual Walbro fuel pumpsfuel system upgrade. $250 or so for pumps A few fittings - some already on the way InjectorsRail - Ouch. $900 most likely. Intercooler - $1K? Dunno yet but it would be WAY cheaper on a Z. Single turbo - most likely an SP63. BIG bux. On the Z this might not even fit - the one Zupra on E-Bay seems to have a custom manifold that actually might be cheaper. The turbo itself isn't too bad, not sure about the manifold but coated probably around $1K. I'll hit 600RWHP with that combo if I go that far. SP63 setups are getting Supras (IE fat pigs) into the 10s! http://www.supraforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=17406 Imagine that in a 2500lb car. How would you keep it on the ground when boost came on? Actually, that's a good question - could you even use the power? I can't hook up 389RWHP now very well As for the older Supra motors.. http://www.supraforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19936 so I guess they're capable too! 29PSI - sick I tell you! Anyway, I think this is a worthwhile swap even if it's not the cheapest...

I seriously considered those too! However it would leave some mounting holes on my doors I think I get their catalog - some sweet stuff they sell but not alway sapplicable to us (lol). Hrm, wonder how big that mounting pad is... P.S. Shush with the CF ricer thing - I'm considering a CF overlay on my Supra's dash. I LOVE the look of that stuff! I'd really like to do some things in the Z with it!

Again? If I did it again I'd seriously consider the Supra straight 6. There's a Z on E-Bay now with one but it's just a bit too pricey I'm afraid but well worth the $15K+ it's at now. Anyway, I like forced induction motors. The V8 is torquey as all heck and I love it but EFI is much more drivable and I like the turbo whine. Barring the Supra 6 I'd consider the GN motor but the auto "requirement" would be a bummer as would the low redline. The L6 Turbo is an option but that might not meet my power thirst. It would have to be something fun too. I dunno' - I don't regret my V8 but the rush of a turbo coming on boost is pretty exciting. I've now bought a supra and the power curve, while not the most useful (lol), is certainly fun! Maybe a V8 with nitrous? Once my drivetrain is more bulletproofed I'll consider that and I'm converting to EFI slowly but surely so maybe the best of both worlds? Yeah, rambling but now that I've done a V8 I'm almost tempted to try something "different". Sad huh?

Just in case -> http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=16306&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

www.jagsthatrun.com get their 240Z swap book. Read it, read it, read it! Then read lot's of car mags and pretty much just vacuum up as much car stuff as you can Maybe take a couorse at the local Community College on mechanical stuff if you want to really build confidence. Got any buddies that know anything about cars? Get their help! Honestly, as swaps go th e240Z swap is pretty easy but you'll still want some car knowledge. Things like fuel lines have to be done right as do electrics (ahem).

LOL, just now spotting this thread and didn't know a 2JZGT motor from squat in October anyway (lol). As we've seen with th ecar on E-Bay right now the 2JZGT motor apparently fits As for cost - guys I don't think it would be much more than a built SBC! Seriously, I've seen Toyota shortblocks for sale cheap from dealers and you can occasionally find a long block on Supraforums. A turbos would be expensive if you didn't go stock - as much as $5K but they can be had for less and the E-Bay car looked like it had a weirdo exhaust manifold anyway. As for the 7-MGTE, I wouldn't do it. Weak head gaskets and they just don't seem as strong as the 2JZ. The aftermarket SEEMS stronger for the 2JZ too but it's possible I'm biased I can take some measurements if someone is looking to do 2JZGT and can look out for parts on SupraForums if someone is serious.... I'd LOVE to do it myself!

That's Holley's new StealthRam and it SHOULD perform VERY well. For the inside scoop on that intake head over to Chevytalk.com and get into the EFI forum. There's a Holley engineer over there who is VERY knowledgable, VERY nice, and who dynos cars for a living. I mentioned the miniram to him and he nearly died at the cost! I'm betting the StealthRam is supposed to compete with it and migh tbe better - he'll know if it is and will give you an objective answer. I trust him and I think Grumpy can speak to his creds as well.... Heh, he can tell you LOT'S of things about the Holley Commander EFI and what they're doing with it. Hrm, need to get over there as I've not hit that site in awhile - he's pretty cool to chat with

Supposed to be straight plug only according to their WEB site I believe. My ceramic coated ones sdhowed up missing a weld It was fixed and if I ever get off my butt to remove them they will be up for sale but at this rate it will be Spring (sigh). Except for poor quality control, needing straight plugs, and being a small diameter primary these are great headers! Hrm, and if they hit on something, flip them side for side and they may fit better - mine fit MUCH better once flipped

HybridZ moderates itself for the most part. Folks here respect one another for the most part and there's hardly ever any trash talking to moderate... As for the LT1 - watch that damned Optispark and the water pump too. Optisparks aren't cheap and go somewhat often. They're nothing more than a glorified optical distributor and a little bit of dirt or water from a bad waterpump will kill them If you want some adventure they can be dissassembled for an attempt at cleaning...

Maverick - depends on the blower manufactuer. Straight 4-71, 6-71 etc. Roots blowers didn't use vanes that had a twist to them - they were simply paddles I believe. Those have an open plenum below them full length for the forced air. I'd say those were NOT axial. Something like an Eaton however would be axial - opening at one end for inlet and an opening at the other end for outlet as I recall. I was pretty sure Latham went out of business and have only seen a few of their blowers. Are they back with the same blower or is someone using their name for something else?

Ummm Warren - what's redline on one of those big diesels? I'm pretty sure they make their boost down low and not at high RPM. Turbos like to have something to push against - heavy loads will do the trick

I never have gotten around to figuring out how to make my markers blink with the signal. For that matter I've still got to figure out why one blinker stopped working (sigh).

Hrm, you DO realize that the Flowtech block hugger fit fine and don't have to be customized right? Several manufacturers make good headers and with ceramic coating they look really nice. Why exactly would you want heavier cast iron over th ebetter flowing header?

If a kit is made I'l lbe interested too. I might not be first in line but I'll certainly be interested in buying one if my R200 doesn't pan out as well as I hope

Cranking WILL eventually see pressure on the gauge bu tit DOES take a long while and as was stated - the motor is dry during that entire time. Supposedly packing the oil pump full of Vaselne will make it prime quicker that first time and prevent galling but I've never known anyone who's done that. Grumpy - you ever tried any of those tricks?

Try this for a cheap boost controller http://www.fwdmopar.com/sites/dennis/boostcontrolbible.html This is the best construction link I've found -> http://pages.cthome.net/gus/mike.html Parts for that one cost me less than $30 from McMaster and only that much becasue one of the parts came in a 10pack only apparently Got the order (fast!) today and will install on the Supra ASAP and report back. For a MUCH better manual boost controller -> http://www.autospeed.com/A_0685/page1.html However I didn't want that complexity In my case the turbos cannot blow up the engine, not so in your case I'm afraid so tread carefully if you build one of those. I'm building the one from the top and may modify it by not drilling the bleed hole they specify as I don't think I'll need it (am not sure what it's for, might be wrong - Scottie? Anyone? Bleed off pressure to wastegate diaphragm?). Have fun and install an intercooler if you can - it's well worth it IMO.

Hrm... [*]Car - $6K[*]Cagecell install - $1K[*]R200 LSD $500 I think[*]1st trans - $1700 (don't ask)[*]2nd trans - $700? (fuzzy, it needs a little work too)[*]Driveshaft $150 maybe?[*]Motor - $4K+ (fuzzy)[*]Wheelstires - $1200 Brakes - $900 or so front (fuzzy) Rear mostly paid for but I still owe Mike I think and we need to get together on an E-brake. Figure a couple hundred.[*]HoodBumpers w/paint - call it $2K?[*]Exhaustheaders - $700 maybe? Need to get my new headersmufflers installed![*]Fuel system - $400 max including carb[*]Cooling system - $250 w/fan[*]Gauges... $250 maybe? [/list:u:d03cae4d70] I think that's it. I'm sure I've forgotten a ton of little things but believe me those eat you up! That's as close as I've ever come to adding it all up. I do this as a hobby and for fun so I've not really kept track of the cost. Going EFI will cost me some too but not as bad as it might if I went nuts. We'll see - I'm not there yet

Check my site for pics - it's easy to do with the dash in the car or at least it was on my '72. I first unbolted the heater assembly where th econtrols are, then reached up and unscred the single nut that holds each of the three middle gauges. Removed the gauges through the front (I think) then used their housing to hold my Autometer gauges and modified the old stock mount so they would bolt in Tach and speedo were removed much the same way - by reaching up under there and unscrewing the bolts holding them and then slipping them out. One removed I put silicone around the new 5inch gauges, slid them in place, and was done (except for wiring). Hardest part was th etach and speedo since they weren't quite an interference fit. I'd use black caulk next time as the silicone was too glossy Bound to be a better way to do those but....

Okay, I WUSSED The kit is now in the hands of a friend who sleeps and breathes this stuff. Since I can now GIVE him one of the kits in exchange for his labor with no qualms this is good I did understand the part about the ICs, that was cool but I guess I misunderstood the part about the small regulator. He'll figure it out I'm betting (lol). Plan is for him to build one and then on the last two for me I'll probably just dupe his work (shrug). I'll let you know how it goes, I won't hear form him until Monday though as he's taking tomorrow off. My fingers are crossed but I know his knowledge exceeds mine in this.

Cut the spare tire well out too - 10gallon aluminum cell with sump in back. Fill through the trunk with a sheet steel cover and door covering it for protection. Pics on my site...

Hrm, it's U4 I cannot figure out. I've got a flat transistor with a heatsink on it w/bolt hole that I know isn't it and a handful of transistors. Not sure which of those is the correct pice for step one. Pathetic I know but kripes it's been a LONG time (sigh). Feel like I'm stuck on first base here - the edge connectors were cake to install as was the cap. Come to think iof it I'd better check polarity (smack). Was one of the small blue ones so it's not like I've got to worry about it popping in my face but still... Hrm, and as I interpeted the blurb about the silkscreen I believe that the PCB silkscreen shows the regulator turned around 180 and that you need to solder it in bassackwards from what's on the board surface - yes?

Shoot some video - that would be awesome to watch I too understand the desire to keep the stock rear setup but if you hurt yourself or someone else it might not be worth it. Is up to you man but I DO understand the dilemma you're in...