BLKMGK

Whew! Keep us posted on Donna Mike, mystery pains are NOT cool! The SO has had soem hip problems of late and it's really stressful when someone you love is in pain and you don't know how to fix it for them As for the job, hang in there. Companies, including yours I know, do NOT like lawsuits or even hints of lawsuits. They will often bend over backwards to avoid them even if it's not "right". Being "right" still costs money to defend. True story: I was working for a company and was contacted by an HR person to inquire about a resume. The applicant worked in my old office and they wanted to know the skillset. The name was unfamiliar but I made some calls. The short of it was that this person's resume was a fabrication. We didn't hire them. A couple of weeks later a coworker from another company is bitching about a "useless" new employee that they had hired and expressed a wish that MY company had hired her instead of his when the chance had been there. Yup, same person! I explained the resume and the employee was confronted concerning it. They admitted to lying on their resume! Instant firing offense right? Nope company lawyers feared a lawsuit(?!) so the person was sent to training and then given a "development plan". Last I heard of it the person hadn't been fired. The person's skills were clerical, they claimed UNIX admin and Notes Development (sigh). Heh and Mike you should be aware that your company scans the big resume sites just like ours does. If they see your resume out there they may think that you're looking and not be quite so helpful. I happen to know that the company in question pulled a yet to be awarded award from an employee after they found out the person was going to leave. The award was for the hard work the employee had put out on their team during the year and pulling it was VERY unfair. I have no doubt that spiteful things like that still occur. Retaining a lawyer is a very good idea just in case (sigh). Document it ALL. Good Luck!!

Hrm, took my TT to th etrack not long ago. 12.9@118 with a 2.3 60foot. Do the math Mods consist of an air filter, exhaustDP, and a hose pulled to bump boost. Off the line it's a low compression 3liter straight 6. 1st gear won't get tooo much boost - rev limiter is often hit, 2nd gets okay boost but goes by so fast it's not funny, 3rd is a nice long pull and the nose lifts high when the power comes on. 4th and 5th pull as hard as third and downshifting from 6th into 5th is a real blast on the highway. Be careful, I'd bet that up until now you've only raced stock Supra - when you find a single turbo car you'll be REAL surprised on the highway. These cars put down 450RWHP easily and 600HP isn't all that hard to do. Weighs a ton though...

Got one - works great. No shroud just a Cobra fan. Temp rises slowly while warming up and doesn't move around much at all with the temp controlled fan. It's an EXCELLENT radiator and pretty cheap too. My WEB site has some pics of the mounts modeled off of Pete's...

By the time yo uadd it up the new Holley EFI systems start to look REALLY good The GENVII has SOME advantages but price is NOT one of them. Holley has also just made a VERY nice MiniRam looking intake - Stealth-somethingorother I think. It's supposed to be AWESOME and be reasonably priced - something th emini-ram is NOT. Mind you I've NOT got an LT1 but I've got plans for EFI. I've just not had time to work towards that this past Winter - too damned cold. We'll see how it goes this Summer...

I'm pretty sure that EEC-IVs are NOT using peakhold driers. All of th eBosche style injecters that I'm aware of are saturated. I do sometimes get confused on this though so if someone can cite a source please do. If memory serves the T-BirdSVO used 24lb injectors - gray body or orange? I cannot recall exactly but I'm pretty sure that it's saturated. As for a resistor box - yeah I'm 99% sure that will work. In fact I've been told that the AEM system I want for the Supra requires a resistor box in order to drive the stock peakhold injectors liek the Supra has. Guess what, the Supra is already equipped with such a box - it's not being done in the ECU Works for me - PnP baby! As I recall Peak hold use a ton of juice at first, then once it's open the amperage requirements drop - yes? I swear I always get the two different setups confused (sigh). Supposedly higher amp drivers can be soldered into the EEC but it's a job. If you can find a Ford Mustang board with technical folks and not just keyboard mechanics you'll proably be able to find out what they've been using. Once you get over about 42lbs finding saturated injectors is supposed to be nearly impossible. Getting into the 72lb+ range and well I think it IS impossible. Considering the short pulsewidth you would need to idle such a big injector and the hysteresis involved in getting that I think I can understand whay saturated isn't used...

Say what? NHRA doesn't allow engine swaps?! Is this for a specific class or race?! Details please - I'm pretty curious about this one....

I'd be careful assuming they would hold up. I've talked to a few people who have run some of the Centerline wheels that are not DOT approved and were meant for racing only. Sure enough, they found cracks in the wheels after awhile! I would think that a wheel company would want to sell their wheels to as large an audience as possible - especially if their wheels are becoming popular. If they don't have a DOT rating on them I'd have to ask myself "why not?"...

Not really a soundbite but... In "Gone in 60Seconds" there's a scene where the guy is in the Mustang, helicopter overhead, being chased in the concrete drainage "thingy". The cops are all over him and it looks like game over - he flips a switch then pushes a button labeled "Go Baby Go" and rockets away from everyone. I WANT one of those buttons! Go Baby Go! Everytime we play that movie I have to watch that scene a couple of times and just cackle

http://southfloridatuners.com/c&n_performance/neil/main.htm Whew, that sucker must fly! I've never seen a pic of a 1JZ, is it a whole lot different than the 2JZ?

He's not dynoed anything interesting lately I'm afraid. He IS getting massive power out of the new Lightnings though Now that warmer weather is getting here I'm going to try and finally get my new headers and added mufflers installed. Afterwards I may try a dyno run again to see if any power was picked up with the larger headers. I never did get moving on EFI and my secondaries still don't open so we'll see.

Try this - take the driver's side door panel off and peek inside. See anything? I didn't think so I gutted a 72 door and when everything is pulled you can pick it up with one hand, smack it, and I swear it damn near rings like a gong! There's little to no reinforcement in the doors. The way folks run redlights around here a T-Bone accident would damn near be certain death I've gto welded in side bars. Yes, it's a royal PITA but it's not a daily driver. Passenger and driver have 4 point belts and I'll be adding in the 5th as soon as I've got time to do so. These cars are light and if someone tried to make one today they would be crucified by the safety folks! Why chance it?

Hrm, that link talks about antique and vintage tags but nothing about "permanent" tags. I'm using old tags that I provided and have it registered as having permanent tags. From what you posted it's also apparent that the police who pull you over also have no clue as to the rules... Here's what I've found on permanent tags - it doesn't jive at ALL with what the guys selling tags told me. Perhaps I've got "vintage" tags?!

I've been told it's a rolling 25year rule too. check with DMV as to what the rule is for "permanent tags" which is what you want. As I understand it you can self inspect with those tags and there's no mileage limitation. If they confirm that I'd ask to get a copy of the rules in writing as I've already had one cop hassle me for not having an inspection sticker A friend of mine used to have to keep a copy in his Chevelle for the same exact reason - the cops don't know the rules either...

Pick up a copy of Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords - there's a company that makes T56 for the Ford. Oddly enough the BRAND NEW transmissions are CHEAPER than what you can buy T56 from GM - and they're converted GM T56?! Had I realized the grief I was going to have with my T56 I'd have probably done a Ford myself to be honest - I've got enough parts around that's for sure! I don't recall the vendor doing the Ford T56 but D&D might have been the one or Reider Racing. If you want to convert an existing trans they ought to have th eparts too but IMO the new ones weren't too bad all things considered...

Hmmm, that's niiiice! Me want one too!

Noooo! You do NOT want pressure! Trust me, it's as bad as vac. Plastic cells will swell and aluminum cells will oilcan. Vent it so that the tank can breathe. Yeah, sounds bad but it has to be done or you'll regret it one way or another...

Actually - there's a tech article on this site for doing complete with pics. A search ought to find it bu tthere's one wrong thing in the article - the GROUND is switched on our cars not th ehot. I dunno' know why but there you are - I found this out the hard way. Changed one wire and I was good to go. Done right the difference in brightness will be amazing... You did search right?

I used "tough stuff" sealant - toughest stronges RTV I've EVER seen! One side is perfect, the driver's side still leaks. I give up! I tried some of those rubbery urethane gskets - fully tightened down I could still push the gasket around between the bolt holes it was so loose....

Consider a Vega tilt column too. Not sure it has switches on the column for wipers and headlights but it's a small light unit that might work well.

I used a Cobra fan. Supposedly those are three speed too - mine wasn't Three lugs but power to either of the hot ones yielded the same speed no matter what. I made some brackets out of plate aluminum, cut the massive mounting ears off, rigged something for the bottom, and am happy as a clam with mine. Look over the pics on my site and at Pete's pics - I got my ideas from him. Mine is setup so that I can manually flip it on or use the thermo switch - is working great. If you need more pics or details let me know - most any good fan will work IMO.

Look over the pics on my site. That's the exact one I used and it worked well. Somewhere here is my posting with the part numbers etc. Pete's site had EXCELLENT pics on mounting it as I recall. I had to make some brackets but it was really no big deal...

The Optispark is a really bad design IMO. It's pretty much just a distributor with an optical wheel inside too. I see no easy way to replace the "cap" yet previous distributors had to ahve their "caps" replaced - why not the Opti? When ours went I took th eopportunity to take it apart to see what was inside. I was shocked to find the distributor "terminals" worn badly and a very clean optical sensorwheel area. No rust or dust inside which was a surprise to me. A waterpump had failed a year before but the Opti had survived. Ours was indeed vented (shrug). Bad design it may be but it does seem to work okay - I think ours was original! Pricey suckers too...

Not positive on MKIV boost cut but think it's around 14lbs or so. My boost cut MAP is bypassed which is "bad" for a number of reasons - will be fixed with an aftermarket ECU "soon". Intake, DP, exhaust is enough to hit cut on a MKIV BTW hence the bypass done by the previous owner. Pulling the wastegate hose gets me as high as 1.7BAR but usually no more than 1.3BAR. At those boost levels this puppy is scary fast but I'm sure the turbos hate me

Couple of things.... LT1EDIT is cool but you have to shut the motor down while programming it (ala side of the road not on-the-fly) and it IS possible to have something go wrong and end up with a "dead" ECU that has to have a PROM soldered into it to revive Keep that in mind - I personally think it sounds wonderful! As for retrofitting the LT1 hardware to an older SBC? Nope. Don't forget the damned Opti-Spark. The block is different to accomodate the water pump and Opti. I was looking into that bigtime as a poor man's EFI but by the time I added up the parts I could have had a DFI, FAST, or Holley system easily. Bummer! IF you've got the LT1 stuff use LT1Edit but if you're starting from scratch seriously consider other things....

Our 95 LT1 went about 100K before the water pump went. The OptiSpark went about 10K afterwards. Possibly not typical but they did last well for us. Holley StealthRAM looks AWESOME! If my VicJR deal doesn't work out I'll be looking for one. What do they run? How much is the rail kit for it? That "other" RAM setup is a joke pricewise. $1K?! not including rails if I recall too