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Everything posted by BLKMGK
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Damn, YES, I've seen one. It was on a GN site as I recall but looking through the bookmarks on this computer I didn't see it. How quickly do you need it? Also, have you considered making a sheetmetal elbow and using a Ford TB? This is how I'm going - elbow for under $100 I'm told. I've got a laptop that MIGHT have a bookmark for this but it's been acting flakey lately. I'll look as soon as I get a chance - ding me on my HotMail account if I've not posted back in a day or two. Hrm, someone made one for the Ford guys too but it couldn't be turned to face forward (I tried). Argh, this is going to drive me nuts trying to remember where I saw it... Here's the Ford unit - still looking... Ah Ha! http://members.aol.com/bigturbo1/buick1.html Found it in one of our ChevyTalk discussions. Unfortunatly it's NOT a GM type TB but it's the best I've been able to find. Is there a reaosn the Ford TB won't work for you? They're cheaper but I'd imagine you may already have some and cable routing might be an issue...
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Nah, ScottieGNZ has already done that. Mostly stock motor turning 11.1 in the quarter shifting into OD at the 1/8th mile mark. He just put in a 'Vette rear so he could get better gearing, I'm expecting to hear about a 10second timeslip any day now
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BB throtlebody bolts on to a carb intake? Is that for port injection or TBI? Interesting numbers Grumpy. I'm going to probably go with a 75mm Ford TB. Single blade and much cheaper than the GM stuff. It'll be placed on a sheetmetal adapter elbow facing forward it looks like - I'm hoping it won't be too tall (ahem). Price is right for the conversion and the elbow so I figure it's worth a shot. What fuel pumps are you having good luck with? I've got an SX, am considering an Aeromotive, and have been pointed towards Walbro($). Don't need a zillion galaons an hour and will only be running about 30lb injectors. The AEM ECU can be had for under $1700 but I'm waiting a bit before jumping on that. I've got 4 WB heater box kits coming and two display kits coming - under $200 total. Just need some $117 UEGOs to go with them and I'll be in buisness! WB has gotten much cheaper now
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Ah yes, Dave Williams - a man I'd like to meet some day. Very active hot rodder and all 'round neat guymachinist.
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Yup, MSA reselles Xenon, I've got one in the back room as I type this. I'd expect that some shopping around might yield a better price than MSA as they have this tendency to tack on a pretty decent tariff.
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Umm, S281s are slow. They use an Eaton supercharger that's nicknamed the "superheater", have no intercooling (has that changed?), and they use a SOHC engine instead of a DOHC engine. Oh, and they leave the rear gears alone. What exactly was your point? Race an S281 against a stock DOHC Cobra - 3 guesses which gets stomped. The SOHC GTs are better than they were before but I wouldn't own one of them over the DOHC Cobra. Tell ya' what - put that LS1 up against an 02 Lightning truck. Hey, it's 4K+lbs The LS1 might be very surprised. Stock Lightnings are making a 360RWHP and a ton of torque. Apples and Oranges again though. I watched a string of about 6 LS1 Camaros dyno one day. 320RWHP was the norm and most had filter lids (if you own an LS1 buy this!), exhaust (some had headers), MAF ends, and a couple had "power programming" done (lol). The one who sprayed made over 400RWHP but naturally aspirated made about 306RWHP. I'm thinking the junk he had tacked onto his MAF to adjust the signal was hurting him The highest NA LS1 they had on the dyno that day that I heard about made 340-360RWHP. A blower car would've been a really cool sight but none showed that I know of. Stock for stock the DOHC revs higher and smoother.Coupled with a T56 and the right gears it's an awesome combo. We're looking for revs here right?
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What TimZ said! And what I was trying to get across - you will need SERIOUSLY strong internals to even approach 30PSI. The turbo V8 I mentioned broke apart because the rods couldn't handle the torquecombustion pressure. No part of that particular engine, save maybe the intake, was salvaged - even the cam got trashed. That was on it's first dyno run too and the author (Vizard?) was shocked. Personally, I'd be happy with a single turb V8 I think. I've spoken to guys who have had MASSIVE HP Mustangs and yes, it's possible to boil the tires at 40mph driving down the road. Or have the rear step over one lane at 70mph stomping on the gas I'm not kidding, that was dry pavement too. My Mustang, when it had two turbos on the 302, would spin the tires after the slightest drizzle if I downshifted to 4th to pass someone on the highway. That is NOT a fond memory at all
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Blue's right I believe. A nice high winding 289 would be cool tho' however parts don't fall out of trees for those either. A 302 is the easy way out but check out th eroom available forst - you'll have to runa really flat intake I'm afraid...
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Turbo that bad boy! Think of all the fun you could have learning about that
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Guys, don't count out the Cobra motor. The LS1 is indeed potent stock but to really push it you're going to be getting into the motor - be sure to check prices on parts I've seen a few LS1 on the dyno - 320RWHP with a few mods is the norm. A couple with headers didn't even beat that for some reason. Freeing the intake tract with a filter lid is a sold RWHP gain. 100horse NOS is good for about 120added RWHP and a ton of torque. A Camaro guy I know says he won't do more than bolt-ons to his LS1 because he thinks the motor isn't a real good foundation to build on. (shrug) Cruise the Camaro boards to find out more. Cobras, stock ARE putting out less power. Slap a set of 4.30s in the back and you may surprise a few LS1s though! These things come with like 3.27 gears from the factory and rev to the moon, duh. Blown Cobras make BIG power - they breathe great. However again you'll be into the motor and parts aren't cheap. Blown Cobras can make 600+RWHP but expect to replace rods, pistons, and pay for a blower Stock vs Stock I'm not sure which I'd rather have in a Z. Either will pound most OEM cars out of the box in a Z. The Cobra will rev higher more smoothly though and that's pretty cool. Imagine the surprise when you pop the hood too DOHC w/a T56 - hrm! I guess I'm a Ford guy at heart still...
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I believe, but am not positive, that emissions will go DOWN with a higher compression engine. Can anyone confirm? Higher compression engines are more effecient (sp?!). Some of the modern hi-po motors are pushing 10:1 these days. Obviously not turbocharged though. Anyone know what the compression on the Lightning is?
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I've heard rumblings about a serial datalogger and supposedly the parts kit may have some additional parts in it for this. T he PCB, professionally done apparently, and the parts kits are SEPERATE yes. I've purchased the PCB, th eparts kit, and th edisplay kit. As for th ewider range of sensors - there are only two reasonably priced UEGO sensors out there - one is Bosch, the other NTK. The NTK is what the kit I'm buying uses and it costs something like $117 online. The other sensor is more expensive I believe. Since I shouldn't have to switch out sensors (an OEM item remember) I'm not too worried about this issue. Of a bigger concern is the O2 connector - I want to use th estock style connector so that I don't have to remove and solder the calibration resistor to my PCB Finding one could be difficult or expensive - we'll see. One of the list members has found a source and is checking on price for new ones. Scottie - I think a UEGO sensor would be a great idea for your car.... Oh, next rev of this kit won't be anything other than vapor until next month it looks like. Seriel datalogging sounds interesting to me but remember that it's really the software that drives something like that. What will you use to analyze it and what other sensors will you get logged at the same time? That could get complicated in a hurry! One of th elist members mentioned having a multichannel datalogger plans set awhile ago but has yet to share it Again, you have to have the software to be able to analyze this data before it does any good...
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Hrm, I'm confused. There shoudl be two parts I think - adapter screwed into oil filter location, then hoses from that, and then the remote mount itself. I used the billet piece and it's never leaked - removes the bypass too. However the remote filter mount DOES leak some even with a System One trashcan style filter screwed on My intent is to work on the cheapo' filter holder to try and fix this problem. The block fitting is holding WELL.
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Very nice! Be sure and take pics as it goes in etc. - should be a fun car. One of these days!
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moving engine rearward: performance gains?
BLKMGK replied to a topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
What trans does the car have in it now? I suspect an auto although a non-overdrive 4 speed is a possibility. If it's got an overdrive auto in it you're golden The T5 and T56 come up through the shifter hole perfectly in th eJTR position. If the motor were moved forward with either of these transmissions I suspect that you would quickly find yourself banging the heater controls with your knuckles. An overdrive trans is pretty desireable for these cars since the rear gears tend to be a bit short as are the tires. What sort of RPMs are you seeing on the highway? Looks like it's got A/C too - sweet! IMHO, drive it like it is, get used to the car. After awhile you'll KNOW what you do and don't like. In fact some things will drive you nuts - fix THOSE things first. If it revs too high, overdrive is in order. If it's an auto you can probably do this and leave the engine where it is (700R4 perhaps). If it's a stick then consider a T56 or T5 - considering the absolute STEAL you got the car for I'd go T56 and treat yourself ;D If it doesn't rev too high but handles worse than you'd like then move the battery and consider some other weight saving ideas. Move the engine as a last resort. Yeah, the JTR position is "better" IMO but getting there from where you're at is a PITA and the car is looking pretty finished right abut now. If it's not broken don't monkey with it too much! Enjoy the car - you got a very good deal. The previous owner's $13K figure is probably not far from the mark. Don't muck with it strictly because another way might have been subjectively "better". If you like the way it drives then leave it alone. Looks very nice BTW - setup a nice WEB page with smaller pics and details please -
Couple of things... Have you driven a V8 Z yet? Mine has only 300RWHP right now but is capable of leaving a streak on more than just the road It doesn't take much to get a lightweight beer can moving down the road, a decent NA 360 ought to be pretty quick. Throw a bottle on it for some added fun. Work your way up the ladder to massive power and it won't kill you the first time out Brakes, rollcage, safety equipment - all of that add up too. Unless you're sitting on a mint of money go slow. The first V8 turbo I read about blew itself up it's first dyno run. It was built with Chevy "Pink" rods, good crank, 4bolt block yadda yadda. It blew because it made so much torque it self destructed! Version #2 of that engine used some seriously high dollar parts and held together making MASSIVE power. That sucker ran nowhere near 30PSI so be careful how high you shoot in the power game as those kinds of levels are BIG bux. The cost can begin to go upwards exponentially.. Oh, 30PSI? Would you believe some of the Supra guys are pushing nearly that much?! Stock turbos get pushed to 18PSI as a matter of course. 22PSI is apparently not that big a deal and I talked to one guy who pushed over 25 on STOCK turbos for awhile. WAY out of their power zone and they ended up dying after awile but that motor, with the proper fuel, can handle it on stock guts. Can you say massive RWHP? Yowza, I should be so lucky! Folks I talked to say this guy raced an 11.30 car and strolled away from him no problem. I can't help but wonder if one of these should've been a swap candidate for my car
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Agree, me too. I've got Phantom gauges and the 10K redline is nutz. Make it an 8K redline and I'll be VERY happy. My motor has seen higher than 6K
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I've ordered 4 heater module kits and two display kits. Lowest price yet found for the O2s is $117 online. It's coming from Aussie land so the kits will take a few weeks to get here and then it's on to the assembly! Will post when I know how hard it's likely to be
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No way, the price difference would be substantial. ZXT motors are usually sold pretty cheap judging fromth eprices that have been posted here in the past. Do a ZXT if that's what turns your crank. A turbo V8 would certainly be faster but not what I'd call very cost effective I want one though (lol).
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My guy said it was too shallow - I fill through the hatch Next time I'll have the cell modified!
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headers for angled plug heads?
BLKMGK replied to nullbound's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Hydra, I have the FlowTechs - in fact I've got a set on my car I need to swap off but have yet to have TIME to get it over to the exhaust guy. They fit VERY well on my car, close to things but they cleared. They did come with a defect but a shot with the welder cleaned that up It's a small primary header deisgned for STRAIGHT plugs according to their WEB site. Pics of the install are on my page - if you're interested in mine let me know - they're still on the car though. Just have gpotten lazy with the Z since cold weather got here and I've been wrangling a Supra purchaseRX7 sale -
Welding Headlight Bucket to Fender - Any lighting ramificati
BLKMGK replied to a topic in Body Kits & Paint
Umm, make sure th eexisting buckets are both metal - I've seen quite a few plastic ones. I've even got a few spare plastic and metal ones here (don't ask - I was E-Bay crazed). -
Okay, Ditto too Seriously, you can't trust the mags to tell you the straight scoop most of th etime and it's really cool to hear form folks who have spent the time to screw together a few engines and share what they've learned. I'll never have th etime to gain that sort of in-depth knowledge and am always very grateful when someone else who's been there is willing. Thank you!
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Hrm, you broke a rocker right? Out on the track? You might want to double check that valve and make sure you didn't get and coil bind just in case. Would be most uncool to do that again and maybe wind up dropping a valve
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Heh, I've got MikeSCCA's braking setup too My only complaint is that getting the rotors warm is hard - they cool so quickly! Obviously this is just street driving and a softer pad would help but for the track these puppies would be awesome! One of these days the NVA guys are going to have to get together and attend one of these things - I've never done ANY track time and I think it ouwl dbe flat out awesome to go out and just play some.