BLKMGK

I've moved the timing around some to clean up the idle. However it seems to want a TON of initial advance and that just seems "wrong" to me especially since I know this is bumping my total advance ever higher. How high is too high? I don't think it's detonating but with the loud exhaust it's darned tough to tell! Just seems to sort of miss a little at part throttle, 1500rpm seems okay if I remember right and I can pull 6th from 1K to 2K on the highway fine. If it were "missing" in that range then I'd certainly expect to feel it in 6th! My calcs seems to say that in the 2K-3K range with high vacuum I may be seeing as much as 48degrees. That's 10 from the can, 24 from the mechanical, and 14 initial. That seems super high to me! My carb is probably rich too but until I get a dyno run I won't know for sure. I'll tinker with it some today but a dyno run is looking like a must have to get A/F if nothing else. Need to wire up my A/F gauge too but it won't be today

Heh, never piss of a yard owner. Not only will they remember you and hose you on any and all future deals but they will often times sooner crush a car you're interested in than let you take them for a sucker. Some of them are downright ornery! $150 is fair IMO, maybe try offering $125 IF you can use it. My gut reaction is that you can probably use the parts but I am NOT any sort of expert. The CVs would probably be worth something to some of us here IF the boots are intact and the rear you could certainly use if it's a ratio you desire. I don't believe the R200 rear mounted differently - yes?

Brad, the Mustang guys are running them like mad with no apparent ill effects. I DO know that when you clean them you have to be careful not to go nuts with the oil though. Several other companies have come out with K&N style fitlers including Holley - I've not seen any filtration or flow tests on them though. K&N makes a WIDE variety of cone type filters as do some of the other companies. Some of the other companies have filteration right to the tip with an inverted cone on the end, K&N hasn't done this that I've seen. Look at the import stuff, Holley's filters, and at the MustangLightning setups to find the cones. My friend's shop sells them by the boatload but they're not K&N. If you get really stuck finding one I can try to get a price etc. as well as measurements. Lemme' know...

Brad I believe you're correct. I'm running coil-overs with 245 tires on 17X8 wheels and it just barely fits. I cannot imagine what a super short spring using a relocated perch would feel like but I'd imagine it would be stiff. My car presently squats like mad with 200lb springs and I may even be moving up because it feels a touch soft. Seems to handle fine although I'll admit to not pushing it very hard. I'd actually be happier if it didn't squat quite so much to be honest, rolling into the gas is enough for it to squat a bit. I've got 225lb springs up front that seem to be fine but I think I'm hitting the bumpstops some judging from where I find the stopperd all the time. I believe I should section the front struts.. P.S. Removing the thin spacer on the driver's side rear has been fine - no rubbing. I'm going to do the same on the passenger side next time that wheel is off. Just an FYI for those considering using the measurements I've published.

Ya, mine is Automotive followed by a pile of cars and under each one is sections like suspension, motor, parts, EFI etc. The site those pics above came from appears to have EXACTLY the sort of setup we've been debating. I'll be interested to hear Scottie's thoughts on it I do notice that the crossover goes right where our crossmember is though so it owuld have to be moved. Lot's of mild steel it looks like and it's all wrapped so lifetime of the parts might be questionable - especially on a turbo car. Interesting that he didn't flip any headers but was able to use regular shorties. Not exactly junkyard parts but certainly something to consider... P.S. Heh, I found that while hunting for sites talking about the TPIS Mini-Ram believe it or not. Unfortunatly I've not found many sites talking about that manifold! If anyone sees one for sale used ring me up as I might be interested. Still pondering possibilities...

I'm so good to you http://home.webworks2000.net/guido/turbo.html You've probably seen this page but just in case -> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/8668/index.htm

The new Cobras do not run T5s, they run T45s and they're proving to be as durable as the T5s were However the Ford T56 is CHEAPER than what I can get a GM T56 for and it makes no sense (grr). For about $2K you can get a T56 modified to fit a Ford but to get a GM T56 "new" it's nearly $3K, WTF?! Cobra guys are swapping in 410, 430, and I think even a 45? series gears like mad. To keep highway RPMs in check they're popping in T56 6speeds. On the IRS cars you don't even have to modify the driveshaft! Dunno' if the T45 fits in place of the T5 very easily - never seen it done. Not sure what the T45 is rated for either but do realize that the 320HP has very little Torque and that torque is what kills a trans. That and dumping the clutch at a zillion RPM P.S. Yeah, actually it is a Tremec. Tremec bought out the Borg Warner tranny business. Makes it real confusing when someone talks about a Tremec "T5". That's NOT the aftermarket Tremec that everyone automatically thinks of! [ September 29, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

hmm, an interesting idea Mike! It's on backorder it looks like - ship date over a month away. No picture either and it's not clear wether or not it comes with fuel rails - any idea? Doesn't look like it but I guess it's still a start. -> http://www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/AMS/AMSM/AMSM.html#ChevyFI Looks like that's not the only one either! Look at 9901-113 through 115. Pretty funky looking though, they have them for big blocks as well and sell the rail kits. Wonder if it must use their TB? Wonder what that might cost (shiver) The TPIS MiniRam looks like it has to have rails purchased for it too - takes that $900 up over another $100 Why are Chevy EFI intakes so expensive?! That may require a TB too - another pile of cash. Chevy TBs are crazy expensive compared to Ford, why is that? Can use Ford injectors and OEM GM sensors it looks like. Hrm, still need the cash for the silly ECU as well. Decisions decisions - thanks for th elead!

Cast iron would be more durable too FWIW but will really hold in some heat! How's this look ->

For those of you considering the use of an OEM ECU this site looks like it might be of interest -> http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/promintro.shtml OEM ECUs can be used to run most anything if you can get in and modify th ecode. Some of th eGM ECUs have been hacked pretty good and that site seems to give a pretty good step by step for th ebeginner.

While hunting information on the Miniram from TPIS I came across this site http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/7610/dyno.htm Thought it might be interesting, a bunch of those make some big power - he seems to really like Lingenfelter who seems to like the TPIS Miniram. Hrm....

Okay, I had noticed that my car seemed to sputter in the 2K-4K range at light throttle. I thought that perhaps it was the ignition and installed an Accel 300+ ignition and a HUGE monster E-coil. Well, problem still persists! I'm starting to wonder if perhaps at part throttle the silly ignition timing is too far advanced - would that make sense? Accel says their distributor's mechanical advance is 24degrees "all in" by 3K. The vaccum advance is an additional 10degrees. Base is close to 15. Adding it all up (?) is sounds like maybe high vaccum low throttle conditions may be advancing quite a bit - am I on the right track I'm considering unplugging the advance tomrrow to see if that helps at all. I'd hoped that this ignition would clean up the idle a little and fix this problem but it hasn't seemed to help much. I've NOT tried playing with initial advance too much but at WOT it sure seems to run pretty well. Will try for a dyno run this week, I suspect my A/F is WAY off on the rich side too P.S. When I get a chance I'll try to post something in regards to the two ignitions I've recently tried to work with - Crane HI-6 and Accel 300+. Somem noticable differences...

Lone, look at some of the S10 swap headers and GM truck headers. They sweep back like a Mustang header - flip the driver's side upside down and put it on the passenger side Some Ford guys have done this with the FOX headers - flip them side for side upside down! I'm not sure how high up they come but it's a possibility if you can find some say at a swap meet. Hrm, I think Carlisle near me may be having something next weekend...

Hrm, thanks Owen. I'm still pondering it. Did that price include a throttle body? Bare intake right - no sensors etc.? Have to see what converting this intake will cost - having toruble hooking up with the guy that can help me! you drive it yet? Am reading good things about that intake...

Don't let the R200 be your deciding factor - it's easy to swap. Disk brakes in the rear can also be added easily enough and supposedly the stock drums have served others well (shiver). If you do the older car the front brakes should certianly be upgraded - lot's of options there including Toyota (heavy) and Outlaw billet stuff (big!). Not sure bout the newer car's options or needs. The T-tops would concern me though - they WILL lower the stiffness of the body! They also tend to leak in most any car although I can't speak for the ZX from personal experience. No matter what you'll be happiest with some structure work unless the motor is pretty stock and even then... With the exception of the T-tops worrying me I think you won't lose no matter which you pick. With a good cage stiffness due to the T-tops would probably be no biggie (shrug). Which do you like better? Which has an interior you like? I'd guess the ZX has more creature comforts at least

Hae you looked into an R230 rear diff? These are found in Q45, 300ZX (late model) and 300ZXTTs. Those cars all made 300 or more ponies from the factory and are limited slip (viscous). They might be what you need to keep things together. Trouble is bolting one in is nowhere near as simple and would probably mean CV joints for you. Guys, how fast are the hopped up 300ZXTTs running these days? Is this a worthwhile idea?

I'm still slightly confused - no light no charge? But I've got nothing on that wire I'm pretty sure Mine charges, I'm sure of it... I'll look at mine tonight and double check (sigh). BTW - this reminds me, a friend who used to restore Zs used to bitch about how som of hem would simply die if a bulb on the dashboard blew. I'm thinking this was probably a charge indicator light like the one you're talking about. Be aware that if that bulb blows you may not have any charging going on. Sound right?

Jermomio, thanks for reminding me! Guys, the 5.0 Mustangs have a nice collision detector on their rear that can be easily used to shut off a fuel pump in an accident. I'm NOT sure what it costs but it can be reset and used so it's not a one time use part. I meant to wire one of these in and forgot - now you've reminded me and I need to hunt one down, thanks! Anyone else done this? My Mustang got tagged once and it triggered, no biggie to wire or reset and it sure could prevent a BIG mess - especially if you're running EFI! I've seen what a fuel leak at 40+ PSI looks like

Hrm, what stubs are you running? If it's 240 stuff I might consider skipping moving to 280 stubs I wonder if the weld can be strengthened in some way... If you're running those kinds of speeds and don't have a full cage you're insane! All it will take is one stub axle to take a dump or maybe a U-joint snapping with the halfshaft getting tangled up in the control arm and you'll be on Mr. Toad's wild ride! Be safe man, it's not worth your life to keep it looking sleepy. Heck, my 8pt cage isn't all that noticable and at least one member has a much nicer one that follows the pillars down right through the dash - it looks really sweet! Oh, and I think I'd agree on the Powerglide. Supposedly those suckers will really pick up a lighter car and take much less power to turn. Not sure how they might be on the street if you're doing that sort of driving but... might buy you several tenths if what I've read is true.

Didn't spec the gasket, I'm betting that it will be fine though since the 1404 seems to be made for 1.75 tubes. As for the colectors, no biggie I've already got exhaust on it for the 1 5/8ths Flowtechs. I bought their header "toobs" which are mandrel bent sweeping pipes made for this job. I'm not sure it'll line up exactly, in fact it probably won't, but the exhaust shop can fix that easily enough. I just hope that they don't have to chop it up too much or I'll lose my O2 bungs Noticed that the Toobs are rusting and the rest of the pipe isn't too I'll deal and will take pics as I go. Hopefully this won't be a big deal and we can all get something out of it...

Tire height and trans ratio in OD will allow you to plug in various rear ratios to get engine RPM. Also consider torque converter lockup. I'm not super familiar with automatics but you've got to consider what RPM you want the converter to flash and whether or not you'll be using a lock-up converter (I would). I CAN tell you that lugging my car in 6th which is a .5 OD I can pull it down as low as about 1200RPM without the engine bitching too much. With some tuning it shoudl be even better! You should be able to easily build a streetable motor to reach your goal. Do you know what the car weighs by any chance? Couold you post your tire height and the OD ratio in that trans? There's probably a Java applet out there somewhere that will do the math for you even if you search for it Honestly if mid 12s are your goal I think a 350 would work out just fine. I think many of the folks are hitting 11s without too much trouble? Check out Andrew's WEB site with time slips and then figure out what looks good

Those wheels are TSW Trophies and in that pic are 18X7 I think - possibly 8inches wide. I tried several places to get them and it was no-go. Instead I ended up with Konig 5.0 wheels and a few folks I've spoken to who are familier with both seem to think I did better with these (shrug). IMO that car looks terrific, wish my paint was more that color One of these days I'll do the paint thing, just not quite yet and when I do I'll probably go whole hog with flares and who knows what else P.S. What's the VW antenna look like? If you've got some other pics of cars done like that I'd be interested in seeingposting them... Oh, and if you're making a mod like this one please take lot's of pics and dopcument the progress! It helps others down the line who wish to attempt to follow you [ September 28, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Emissions laws not withstanding I'd suggest picking th eone that's in the best shape that you're happiest driving. If it's one of th eZX check with the guys who've done that swap to find out if power steering or whatnot might get in the way. Yeah, lighter is faster but if you figure that ANY of them is goingf to weigh about 1Klbs LESS than a Camaro then you'll understand just how fast it will be. Kripes, short of a Z06 'Vette you'll beat most any new car off the lot except for maybe really high dollar exotics. I'd say don't get too wrapped aorund the axle on saving a few lbs and go with whatever makes you happy and requires th eleast amount of bodywork and finangling to get around emissions laws. You can alwys add a little HP later if you really have to have it

Hey, if that's what you want to do I'm not knocking it. You'll learn a TON and probably not spend much learning it. I too wouldn't mind doing a turbo setup of some sort and almost envy the ZXT guys. However I'm not sure it'll be this motor that sees a turbo - it's fast enough right now without adding still more power. Heck, I get in the RX7 and I actually thought the clutch was slipping in 2nd gear. Turns out the car just makes that much less torque than the Z however I finally noticed that the speedo was moving about as fast as the tach too. That and the lack of clutch smell let me know it wasn't quite that bad yet (lol). Go for it man and please do let us know how you go about making th emanifolds. It's a real bummer that finding manifolds is so darned hard for the SBC... P.S. You reading in on the Yahoo JYTurbo group? If this is truly your interest than that's a VERY good group to get in on

I think I'd agree that the T5 is the best shifting trans I've owned or driven including th eT56 I'm driving now. The T56 may yet turn out to be better but it'll take a little bit of a rebuild to get it there (ahem).