BLKMGK

Scottie - just an FYI, that valve in the back isn't a prop valve. It's a residual valve. I tkeeps some slight pressure on the rear drums after you've let off the brakes. I pulled mine apart to gut it and that's what I believe I was seeing. Anything over a certain pressure unseats a spring loaded valve...

I started to put Neapco into my shafts after I snapped one. Had trouble with it - seemed like one of the crosses was a bit too wide. I've now got a set of CVs and adapters but have not yet gotten a set of stubs. Looking at the nice but cheap Neapcos I'd say they're stronger. I think the Spicer I snapped was defective as the rest have held well - so far.

I've got a T56 with a plastic slave. The first one didn't do too well and I ended up making a custom line. If you go the drilltap route consider using a bit of JB Weld to ensure it's a good tight fit. I think with a little JB mine would've held but I decided not to risk it.

I'd agree. The ZX TT, the Supra TT, and the FD3 RX7 are all sweet cars that I'd group together. Each has it's good and bad points but together they're terrific examples of engineering that I'd love to own. I wanted a Supra but they were too expensive, and mostly still are. I didn't see any ZX TTs in my range and the density underhood was pretty scary, so I ended up with an RX7. It too handles like it's on rails and it's light weight really helps. One of these days I'd liek to own a Supra and I wouldn't mind the ZX either. My Z doesn't come close the RX7s handling but more time behind the wheel might raise my confidence

Yes, I'm talking about flash programming the ECU for mods. The 96 is an OBDII ECU I believe but the folks who made the LT1-Edit software are coming out with one that I believe will work for that ECU. You'll still need wiring mind you but that ECU is powerful and if I'm correct will allow you to make whatever changes you want. I wish I could figure out how to slap one on an older car but the Opti-spark is an issue. Oh, and if it goeas bad like ours just did it's $450 from GM

Hrm, presurrize the gas tank perhaps? Use a check valve so it doesn't suck in raw gas hrm, not sure you'd be able to work that out.... Pressurizing the entire carb might do it but I'd be afraid it would just push the gas right back into the tank.. Oh well, sell the turbo to Ron for his golf cart

Heh, I actually have only one pic of myself on the 'net and I've requested more than once that it be removed for privacy reasons (sigh). I tend not to share such things - one of the paranoias I've gotten out of being a computer security geek Heh, not a bad picture of Scottie though I was taken completely by surprise when I met him - not sure what exactly I expected though. On the 'net nobody knows you're a dog...

I'd echo that - get it registered first and make sure it's kosher. I wouldn't be telling anyone locally about the discrepancy either (ahem). Check into LT1-Edit too. The 96 isn't covered but they have a package coming out that ought to cove it I think. That ECU is flash programmable and as such you can do a WIDE variety of edits to its programming much like an aftermaket ECU. That's a very powerful software package that might come in pretty handy for you. Ought to be one very nice car when you're done. congrats

Hrm, I think if mine were Scarab from the get-go and I wasn't moving to a stick shift trans I'd skip the $200 cost (driveshaft) of changing over. Obviously some folks have switched and enjoyed perceived benefits but it's a PITA and does cost some cash. I'm lazy enough that taking a perfectly good project off the road to do that would probably be just enough to not make me do it Starting from scratch though I think it's a no-brainer, I'd go JTR. The only added cost is the setback plates and some hoodpins. Everything else I'd do pretty much the same including an electric fuel pump because that's my prefrence. (shrug) I do find it most amusing that someone with an all iron setup would presume it to handle better than a Scarab style setup that used aluminum bits. The change is subtle moving the engine back and it doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize it's pretty fuzzy as to which would be better. I'm pretty sure this guy wasn't a rocket scientist (lol). I guess that's almost as amusing as those L6 folks who ASSume that a V8 is going to handle terribly and be "slow" I often wonder what runs through a purists mind when statements like that are made I think at this point that it would be REAL interesting to get some corner weights from a JTR setup car. If I knew where I could get it done I'd have my car weighed since I think it would be a good example. Wheels on my car are probably heavy but coil-overs, billet calipers, and other things might offset this some. Battery is dead center in back with an aluminum cell belowbehind it (shrug). Heh, now I'm curious - I'll have to ask around and see if anyone close by can do this.

Shouldn't need a new carb. What's occuring is the gas is being pumped back down the line under boost. The fuel pressure needs to be pressure refrenced so that as boost rises the fuel pressure will go up at the same rate. This occurs on automotive carbs too. Mechanical fuel pump right? It can be done with those by drillingtapping into the pump but I'm honestly not sure how it's done or how it's done on a snowmobile Check around on the 'net and you should find information on how it's done for cars or maybe bikes which should be a clue. Oh, carb have floats? Make sure they're strong as they could also collapse under the boost. Even a few lbs of boost could put a surprising amount of pressure on the float.

Heh, I went with the cell I did because I knew it would fit - saw it in Mike's car I wish it were bigger because my car sux gas like a hog at the trough right now. No doubt tuning will improve that but a bigger tank would certainly extend the range a good bit. Had known I was going single 3inch out the driver's side I'd certainly have gone bigger but I thought I was going duals. Oh well, live and learn...

Lone, my hood vents tons of air and is easy to look over - has ZX vents as well. I'm also not sure I believe that air boxes don't work when run up front. i guess we'd need a pressure meter to tell for sure but if there's pressure built up in front of the radiator and whatnot I'd expect it to find it's way up the tubes into the carb. I wouldn't expect to see "boost" in the intake mind you but any work the engine doesn't have to do in order to inhale will increase CFM. This is why the low pressure zone at the base of the windshield works so well as I understand it - I don't think that's a high pressure zone. Anyone else know for sure? Put a tuft in there and I don't think it will move around too much - I've seen leaves on some cars like my RX7 just sit there at speed. Hrm, maybe fun to try with a tuft on the highway

Interior of the car, through the trans tunnel, hooked to the driveshaft Heh, any chance you could put a smaller pulley on it Terry? Maybe get the charging speed down perhaps... How much noise is that making in the passenger compartment? It's in there where you can hear it, right?

Heh, I actually posted some of this with you in mind Had a message from a friend when I got home tonight telling me about the Accell Gen7. He's apparently running it and feels it's more advanced than the FelPro. Best of all he knows where to get me hooked up with it and get it tuned. We'll see - cost is going to be a factor so we'll see. This is NOT the budget route but added tinkering I can do with a full out system is an attraction to me. Will let ya' know what I find out - am going to try and get a copy of the DFI software to check out...

Umm, I drive an RX7 TT - modded somewhat heavily with bolt-ons. It's quick but a Vette will likely take you off the line due to superior torque production. Top end I've had a late model Vette keep up with me - but barely. Light weight really helps - I'd actually be surprised if an FD3 weighed as much as 2700, more like 2500lbs I think. In a Z you would indeed save some weight and beat that Vette With th eaddition of a mod or two recently i could probably do it now. I guess you could run an R180 Subaru rear to get the gearing down which would help. With porting and no emissions the power would climb a great deal too.It would be an interesting experiment but I think a Miata is a better candidate. Hrm, I might add that I've have a modded 300ZX TT keep up with me (mostly) and that a somewhat modded Mustang creamed me - off the button. The Mustang had plenty more to give if he needed too and was running a junkyard motor with heads that had 100K on the shortblock. Again, it's torque off the line that did me in The RX7 is a point and squirt bundle of fun but a "muscle car" it's not (shrug)...

Umm, I'd want part number and manufacturer information before I'd bid. Who rated that pump, what does it fit, and what sorts of hookups does it have. He's left too much to the imagination IMO..

To answer your question to me - I'm running 17X8 Konig 5.0s. Tires are 245/45 in back and 225 or 235 up front (I've forgotten ) My wheels are 5lug Mustang offset with +20 on one end and +40 on the other if MEMORY serves. I've got 300ZX hubs up front so my offset is different than yours and I'm running coilovers. Overall I'm not sure my experience in fitting wheels on my car will help you too much. If you do a search here yo'll find at least a couple of threads where weI hashed out this sizing on my car and my WEBsite has info as well. Oh, I did use thing spacers in front but it looks like I can remove them in back no problem but it's REAL close. Sorry that's not much help - if you search though you'll find tons of info as this has been a VERY popular subject. I ended up with Outlaw brakes (HUGE) similar to what you see on the ArizonaZ site...

Pete, I'vre got a link somewhere fo ran EPROM emulator that was being worked on Yeah, it's a pain to swap PROMs but price is the issue I think. Holley does indeed look good. Supposedly there's info on the DIY-EFI site for a wideband O2 from a LEV Honda that can be setup. Guy here at work is excited about it. $250 for the O2 which for true wideband is DIRT cheap. You did look up the part number fo rme before. However that intake is a bit different than mine and if memory serves t would still require rails. I'll have to look again as I seem to recall there was SOME reaosn that I didn't want to go that route. I'll have to look again (sigh). Worse comes to worse I sell my E-Bay Victor at a profit and go for the Holley if prices work out. Will dig up those part numbers, thank you for reminding me about that option!

Sport Compact had an article not long ago that I found interesting and is somewhat related. They took a professional race car driver, a pile of wheeltires, and some sacks of concrete to the racetrack. They blindfolded the driver and put him in the car after swapping wheelstires and in some cases putting sacks of concrete in the car for ballast. In each case the driver was able to pretty much figure out what had been done! It was interesting that thin sidewalled wheel combos weren't always his favorite BTW. Anyway, my point is that a talented driver CAN discern minor differences. Things like 50lbs of weight moved around can really change how a car handles. That might only be 1% but it could be enough to change things. I know in the case of my RX7 that folks report they can tell the difference when a lighter BATTERY is installed - it sits way out front just past the front axle FWIW. Mine weighs a ton However, I'm no "talented driver" and the minor difference in weight, while possibly making the steering lighter, wasn't really my big reason for doing the JTR swap. I wanted the trans to line up and any added handling benefits were simply icing on the cake I I really want to go around corners, at this point, my RX7 would probably make my Z look pretty silly P.S. Adding weight to the front of a car in order to keep it on the ground at speed just feels "wrong" to me. Obviously you're racing the car and have experience I don't but it seems counterintuitive to do that. If the added weight is as little as 50lbs at what speed does the lift overcome that advantage? Wouldn't a spoiler provide greater than 50lbs advantage? I honestly don't know and am curious. Hrm, and it's pretty pathetic that someone would claim your car handled badly without some sort of knowledge about it. I'd never ASSume that out of hand without some sort of direct knowledge. What a jerk! [ October 16, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Sounds scary IF you do this start with somewhat fine sandpaper first. Best to try finer sandpaper before rougher as starting with rougher on a mostly smooth surface will create more work for you. Try like a 400 grit wetdry and then move to 600, 1200, then maybe Mothers etc. Use water with the paper and soapy water for the finest stuff. Aluminum will quickly clog th epaper otherwise as it's pretty soft. Fine steel wool suposedly works but I've not used it much.. Good luck, keep us posted, post some pics if you can! Hrm, maybe try the 600 or 1200 first. Been awhile since I've done this by hand but finer is WAY beter than screwin up a surface with too rough a grit [ October 16, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Well, try putting them on and see how close it comes. I can't quite recall which offset I had that came closest to touching the springs with my coilovers but I'm thinking you might need a pretty thick spacer Be wary of that as it adds stress to the studs I believe. Easiest thing to do is set it in the wheelwell and just eyeball it. Trak Auto and other places sell cheap spacers - try stacking a couple for a test fit but don't drive it with stacked spacers

If you're not looking to swap in another brand motor that sort of leaves you with the Q45 V8 (undocumented swap) and the L6 motors I think. You've already mentioned the possible willingness to swap in a later model L6. If you're willing to do that I'd urge you to look closely at the ZXT motors. IMO the difference between a 2.4 and a 2.8 s somewhat minimal and if you're going to that trouble to get EFI it might as well be a turbo motor as the work is much the same IMO. The power difference would more than make up for any added plumbing Several folks here have done that swap and yes it does use the same mounts etc. - it's still an L6. Motors are apparently pretty reasonable too depending upon where you live and the going rate. Don't try to swap turbo parts onto a naturally aspirated motor though as there are apparently a pile of strength differences in the turbo motors you'll want (ahem). If you do a search I think you'll find several threads on this swap and I believe at least one member has a good WEB site detailing things to look out for doing the swap. Had I a second Z, time, money, and space I'd certainly consider this swap - right after I'd done a GN swap

Torque is the downside of the rotary - even boosted. High powered turbo rotaries usually dump the twin turbo setup and go single turbo - more power and you lose about 35FEET+ of vacuum hose Look at the single turbo Miata pics I put up for Scottie awhile back to see what I mean. To make up for the lower torque RX7 have 4:11 rear gears or lower. A 3rotor engine would be a monster though - not cheap however as it would have to be imported from Japan. It's a COSMO motor only I believe. You can find them on the WEB for sale in the US if you look hard enough, shop in Texaas sells them I think. Honestly, if that's what you want I think it would be easier to simply buy a FD3 RX7. It weighs close to what a Z does, already has modern brakes, looks great IMO, and handles like a dream. Climbing into the RX7 from the Z is a REALLY weird experience. It RPMs MUCH faster but the sensation of speed is 100% different - it feels like the clutch is slipping That is until you note that the speedo' is moving right along! The Z on the other hand throws you back in the seat and goes RIGHT NOW and it's always weird to see the RPMs so much lower. I throw shifts at 7K or more in the RX7, the Z seldom sees 6K but has come close to 7K once or twice with no sign of letting up It's really hard to explain but if the Z felt like the RX7 I don't know if I'd be happy or not. You might want to try test driving an RX7 FD3 before you get too set on the rotary motor. A roatry in a lighter 510 - now THAT'S sick! I want one. Now! HeHe...

I've been slowly moving forward with plans to go EFI. I've got a spare carb intake (Victor Jr.) and I've now got the name and number of someone who can convert it for me - price unknown just yet (ahem). Anyway, I've been looking into ECUs. Lately I've been investigating the cheap route although I'm really not sure it's one I'll take. Since I know that some of us really want EFI but are on tight budgets I thought I'd share some of what I'm finding out. It seems it's possible to use GM ECUs to run non-stock engines (duh)and that pretty cheap tools exist for modifying the programming. we've talked about LT1Edit already but that's an LT1 geared ECU that might not work on an engine not using an optispark etc.. That's a shame too since that's a flash programmable system. Anyway, check out these links -> http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/ and www.tunercat.com TunerCat looks pretty interesting. You can reprogram TBI or TPI type ECUs by swapping PROMs. Tools to reprogram the EPROMs without learning HEX exist and there's lot's of info out there for the hardware required to do the flashing of the chips. Wiring the ECUs would still be an issue but by the time you were done it still should be cheaper than an aftermarket ECU. TPIS even offers systems with harnesses that are reprogrammed for your engine - not super cheap though. Hopefully that's food for thought for someone. I'm going to wait and see what modifying this intake is going to cost before I get too excited about my progress. Would be interested in research done by others. Scottie, I know you're using a GM ECU - are you doing any programming yourself? The GN ECUs actually seem to have some of the best toolstoys from what I've seen Mike, how's your search for an ECU solution going?

Hrm, moving the battery is the same as moving the weight of the battery and then some. Remember that it's taking weight from th eback and adding it to the rear. Not the same as simply removing it from the front. IMO 50lbs can make a BIG difference. I once drove a small station wagon around an offramp at speed forgetting the tempseted printer that had been placed in the FAR back. It got EXCITING in a real hurry! The difference of adding a 75+lb metal encased printer to the far rear (way behind the rear axle) was enough to make a huge difference on the handling of that particular vehicle. Ya', it's possible that the JTR setback doesn't help "that much" but it does help. Add to that aluminum heads, water pump, battery in the back (mine over the axle BTW), and the use of things like an aluminum radiator - it adds up. I wanted a stick shift too - it fits better. My reasons for using the JTR setback had less to do with cooling and weight than they did transmission position I'm not a good enough driver to see the difference on the track but one trip around an offramp with a pile of weight in the far back was enough to demonstrate to me that I do NOT want weight at the far ends of my vehicle - I want it all within the confines of my axles I'll take everything I can get to that end - the JTR setback doesn't cost much more to do if anything does it? True it's less easily reversed though... P.S. No flames here either - this is a healthy discussion IMO.