BLKMGK

Pix may not be close up, I'll link one here. This design is Pete's so i get no credit. The part for the upper mount rubber was straight out of the JTR manual. Oh, and I can see why you couldn't find them Here's the page, I'm sorry it's so well hidden. I'm in need of a WEB site overhaul it seems. http://www.blkmgk.com/development/testweb.nsf/4691e0edd8a01bd6852569ae0075e9c4/bfde2094dd10c02085256a6a00050714?OpenDocument

Zfan - are those angle or straight plug heads? If straight - do you have any plug interferance? TIA!

Scottie I'm truly thrilled to see you moving ahead so fast! I'm glad that you've not gotten bogged down and am dying to see the first 10 second timeslip!

Gearhead - read the linked PDF at least before you order anything. Also checkout the FelPro if you're buying it all whole hog. It might be too much, heck the new DFI might be too much, but it's worth a comparison. I personally would love to check out their software and see one in action. Iknow someone who migh tbe using one but I've not seen him in months - I migth see him at the cruise Saturday and if I do I'll see what I can do about a demo. As for the SDS - yup it's simpler! But I think that's what they were striving for. A "good enough" simple solution. I've not used it but am honestly tempted to give it a try. It's control is not as finite and the ECU makes assumptions for you but again for some cases this is okay. Heh, Electromotive. Yeah, they do their stuff "different". If you're used to other packages trying to figure their's out with it's different terminology could be a trip. I'm told that once you're used to it that it's not so bad. Have you looked at their graphing capabilties? Other's may have caught up but they've had some good tools for years. The guy I knew who used them on RX7s raved about their setup. Boost control fomr the ECU, NOS, triggering external stuff - pretty nice. The terminal strip on the ECU bugs me and I've seen people having fits with it. Gearhead - please let us know what sorts of prices you get too. Are you considering converting a carb intake or using something like the Accell gear? Any tuning shops nearby that you can query on prefrences?

I would argue that he newer box has more than a few extra options I think they redid the whole shebang! I believe the FelPro box may have been designed by an Ex-DFI guy who got frustrated with Accell and struck out on his own. I know one of the newer boxes was done by "that guy". The older box wasn't much different than a late 80's GM OEM box that could be programmed. Yes, Duttweiler was one of those racers and is the guy I bought my box from. I can only imagine how much tuning time he put into it! He's great to talk to on the phone and very knowledgable. They almost had the Fod idle motor working there fo awhile but gave up - seems it would occasionally spike for no reason at all - not cool in traffic! Do realize that tuning for WOT is much easier then tuning for driveability. If you've got FastFrog's base to start with you are WAY ahead. The base I started with from Duttweiler had to be leaned out over 40% to even start the car. I ended up nearly creating maps from scratch with nearly zero support. Frustrating is a good word for it. Ayway, once you're running it should do what you want. It's NOT a terrible box if you get it at a good price but if I had to buy one new it wouldn't be my first choice. I believe SDS is getting good reviews mostly because it's so dirt simple and it's reasonably priced. I played heck getting my system to where I wanted it for the street. I prayed for the day someone would release a package that would let me modify the EEC since it had Ford's zillions in tuning driveability already done - this is why I like the LT1-Edit software so much. Once running you may find that all of the various options in the DFI software can be confusing. The EMIC PDF you linked IS a must read, heck even if you don't have a DFI it should be read if it's the same thing I've got at home. The EMIC manual I had explained EFI as well as the DFI software. You used to have to goto class to get it I think, mine was backdoored form a DFI employee I managed to meet online. Boy did that sucker help! Go it over a year after I'd been tuning on my car though Anyway, keep us posted on your getting it up and running. I was lucky enough to get a jumper for my stock harness...

Try FactoryFive racing -> http://parts.factoryfive.com/index.html They don't list it as a seperate part that I can see but they obviously have the part. There are tons of Cobra kits out there so maybe grabbing a copy of Kit Car and hitting some WEB sites will turn it up if FactoryFive doesn't offer it seperate. Always liked the look of their cars and the idea of using recycled Mustang parts

Careful Sleeper - there's more than one type of supercharger. A Root's style does indeed make instant boost - it compresses the air within it's housing and delivers the compressed charge right into the intake. A centrifigul (sp?) supercharger has to pile the air up in the intake and discharge tube and has a response curve much like a turbo. Heck, it even looks like a belt driven turbo Some centrifigul blowers are more efficient than others too. Look ast the boost curve for some of the blowers being put on modular Fords, late boost that looks like a turbo with lag but they rev so high that it would boost off the scale if it made boost lower down. You don't usually see wastegates for blower cars but I guess in the case of a high revving motor it could make sense?

I'm not sure the T-Rex can draw the fuel up from the tank - I think they reccomend a "lifter" pump of some sort. In the Ford world the T-Rex has always been used in conjunction with a stock pump when I've seen it. I'm not saying running it alone wouldn't work but that it's probably not how it's supposed to be setup. Have you considered contacting Vortech's tech support maybe?

Superchargers come in different sizes just like turbos. You'd want to match the supercharger to the size of the engine just like you would a turbo. I would expect that the HP required to drive a bigger 'charger will be higher as size goes up - that's based on intuition though and could be incorrect. As blower size an HP required to drive it go up you also run into belt issues and if too small the belt will slip and you'll lose boost. Pick up a Fod mag like Muscle MustangsFast Fords sometime an look at some of the blower race cars. They run huge boost and giant blowers - lot's of turbo cars showing up now. A guy I've met out here has run HUGE power using a race blower on a Ford 302 (something like 20+PSI!) so it's certainly possible to boost a bigger engine. Last I talked to him he was about to go turbo though That was one big honkin' turbo he had too! Bear in mind - turbos and superchargers are both just air pumps force feeding an engine.

Gack, three posts while I wrote that thing. I've got a pinout for the DFI here somewhere, not much of a wiring diagram I'm afraid. It CAN use a cheap laptop - it's DOS based, mine was a 286 12mhz luggable Forgot the NOS option, yeah that's cool. Wideband O2? That wasn't available for mine but I know it's on the new ones - which version are you using? I just checked their site and all the info I see is for the new GEN VII system rather than the older box. Calmap 2K looks nice tho' Hrm, most of the fast cars I've heard of running DFI are using the newer system. Are there any still using the older cheaper box? What's the GEN VII run pricewise?

Allright, shall we try to get this back to the question at hand? I'll try for a sort of "EFI for dummies" here. Everyone else feel free to jump in with correctionsquestions on this data dump - this is from memory after all and mine sux. So do my typing skills 400SBC and a person who's new to EFI, yes? To me that means you'll want something that can be easily programmed or comes with tools to make programming it easier. You've mentioned the Holley system as being one you've looked at. I seem to recall that the Holley system comes with it's own intake - yes? Or is this their TBI setup? If it's a port injection system that they provide the intake for you'll have to ask yourself if the intake it comes with will support your needs. If it's the TBI setup then you lose some of the advantages you'd get with port injection but can run your own intake and probably lower fuel pressures as well - possibly no return line which might be a plus for you. I'll ASSume port injection for a moment and give you some basics as I understand them so that you can maybe understand what the terms are when you look at various systems. 1st thing is how the injectors fire. Batch or sequential. There's also a weird bank fire type but I'm not sure who's using that or why you'd want it. Sequential injection is usually thought of as "better". It provides a little more torque, possibly some HP, a better idle, and it provides lower emissions. It also means you have to have some sort of position sensor so the ECU knows where cylinder #1 is. The older DFI system I've used was batch fire only - their newer stuff can do both. For simplicities sake you'll probably be happier with batch firing. Batch firing fires all injectors once per stroke, sequential fires them each in turn. Bank fire does one bank then the other. Clear as mud? 2nd - closed loop. This is where the ECU uses a sensor to read exhaust gas and adjust the fueling. OEMs use one or more O2 sensors per side but most of the aftermarket units use just one. When you're not WOT the ECU can runclosed loop and adjust the fuel to give you better MPG. This is a very good thing and can really help! SOME systems like the FelPro and TEC setups can actually allow you to set tables with target A/F ratios. Correction: CalMap 2K for their newer GEN VII box can also do this. You then make a pass or two and it will "self program". To do this right you need a wideband O2 sensor since most OEM sensors are tuned for a particular range and can't read well outside of that range. This adds cost but if there's no place near you that can tune I'd consider it. This is NOT something you'd leave setup this way all the time as a read O2 might really screw things up. In fact I think the FelPro wide band O2 isn't supposed to be left in. Electromotive has been advertising something like this for awhile and they may try to make it work with a standard O2. Injectors. There are generally two families. High impedance and low. I get them confused so someone else will have to help but one family has better response than the other. This is important for idle, especially when running big injectors on a high horse motor. If you run the slower injectors the hysterysis (sp?!) in the injector will prevent it from opening properly at really low speeds. In other words - if an injector takes .25milliseconds to open and .25 to close and you need .4 to get a good idle it will never openclose properly and you'll get a drip of fuel instead of a spray - the result is a poor idle. This is worse in batch fire setups where all injectors fire at once. Some other sensorsequipment to know about: Water temp, tells the ECU when the car is warming up and allows you to set the idle higher, mixture richer, etc. etc. Air temp, cooler air has more oxygen - this sensor allows you to lean the fuel if the air is hot or richen it up if cool. You want this to get a consistant reading so positioning it can be important. Some folks trick OEM systems into running richer by putting this further from the intake in a cooler air stream - I hate tricks like that (sigh). MAP sensor - Manifold Air Pressure. This tells the ECU the vacuum in the intake or pressure if it's running boost. Usually measured in BAR a single BAR MAP would be for a naturally aspirated motor. 2 bar would be for an engine running up to 14.7lbs of boost, 3bar etc goes up from there. This sensor is used to INFER the amount of air going into the motor. Using some math and injector tables you program along with the O2 the ECU figures out fueling. MAF - Mass AirFlow (?). These meters directly measure the air moving into the system. Several ways to do it but the least restrictive is with a hot wire placed in the air stream. Amount of voltage required to keep the wire at a specific temp determines airflow. MOST aftermarket systems do NOT use this sensor, I believe that Electromotive can (or used to) allow you to use this and Motec may as well. IF you were to use an OEM ECU you could also use this. I like MAF but it also creates plumbing issues. Chances are you won't want this. TPS - Throttle Position Sensor. This tells the ECU when you've got your foot in it It will also tell the ECU when you've let off the gas. Some systems will read this ad turn off the injectors when it realizes you are decellerating. Ide Air Motor - not really a sensor but it's important. This is usually a servo motor and it bypasses air aorund the throttle blades. This is done to maintain idle, warm the car with a higher idle, and kick in for things like the A/C compressor running. Many systems I've seen use the GM unit - my DFI did on the Mustang. Knock sensor - used to detect knock duh! Screwed into the block this is a piezo microphone tuned to listen to specific frequencies. I've only ever seen the GM unit used for this. Sometimes it's too sensitive and will pull out timing in the upper parts of the RPM band as it falses on valvetrain noise. Some ECUs allow you to turn it off past a certain RPM and I think most allow you to control how much it takes out per "knock", how fast it "recovers" after knock stops, and max amount taken out. Note that many EFI systems don't offer this or offer it as an option. I think that's it for sensors. Obviously the ECU needs a tach input too. Those few sensors are all that the ECU needs in order to know what's going on with the motor. Software - some software is pretty complicated, some software tries to draw analogies with carburators to ease tuning for folks who understand them. Things like accelerator pump and whatnot are used to help things along. Helpful software packages will have "wizards" that ask you questions about your motor and injectors in order to come up with a "close enough" set of tables. Tables - generally the ECU software will have a spark table, a fuel table, warm up table (fuel), and some sort of table based on the TPS for accelerator pump shot. These are lookup tables and when they're pretty close to correct the car runs great. Screw them up and it will pump black smoke, melt down, or refuse to start. I've seen two of the three but never melted one down - yet. Note that some newer systems like the TEC will allow you, with the correct options, to setup target A/F ratios in a table and then drive the car which allows the computer to reset things in other tables to hit those targets. In effect it's self programming! DFI's older software will show you realtime which fuel table "cell" it's in, the milliseconds of injector being used, and the amount of "adjustment" the ECU is having to make in order to his Stoich while running closed loop. It won't change the cell itself and it's hard to tune other than in a fairly narrow band using this feature. Datalogging then becomes important! Most of the other inputs to the ECU simply modify what's in the base fuel or spark tables. Getting those "right" is important and can be a laborious process. Tools to generate them, other people's maps, and dyno time all help. OEMs spend millions getting these "right" for production cars. Datalogging - this is a process where you record the data coming from the engine sensors for later examination. You want as much data as you can get a quickly as possible from as many sensors as possible. Some ECUs are faster thna others CPU wise and can handle spitting out more sensor data than others. My older DFI was limited to I THINK 6 or so. It could do "fast" logging for 60 seconds or slower logging continuosly to a laptop. "Fast" logging would still show me gaps where RPM climbed 700-1000 between data points. That didn't help me much. when looking at ECUs that datalog try to find out how fast it logs and how many inputs it can log at once. also find out if the software offers graphing of the data. Electromotive's software does and it's awesome! With the DFI I often found myself trying to use Excel to graph a .5volt TPS sensor against a 6K RPM reading along with an 80degree MAF reading and millisecond injector pulses. It wasn't easy getting data out that I could use Whew! Note that some systms don't even use a computer. SDS is a biggie here, I think Edelbrock has one, I think Holley's TBI is this way. Takes lot's of gizmos off your hands but also takes away easy data logging and fine tuning ability. IMO if you're not a computer geek then not having to purchase a laptop is a plus as is losing some of the other levers and knobs to twiddle. I get the distinct impression, having read info from others, that SDS offers GOOD support, I'm NOT sure the same could be said of the bigger companies so bear that in mind. Speaking of support - do you have any dyno shops or tuners in your area? I didn't when I did my car years ago and let me tell you it was hell! My base maps from Duttweiler were WAY rich and it took me forever to get my car to where I mostly could enjoy it. At the time folks in my area were yanking EFI for carbs and wante dme to do the same (sigh). IF you've got a shop in your area SERIOUSLY consider speaking to them BEFORE you make a purchase. Get their hands on experience and find out what system they're comfortable with! If they love the DFI then despite what some like myself might call downfalls consider buying one. Having a dyno to tune on is a big help but driveability will almost always ave to be dne on the street. If they've done a motor like yours they can give you a BIG headstart if you choose a system they're familiar with. Ask around with friends too - make sure the shop knows what they're doing. In Cali there ae probably zillions of such shops. Don't shop just on price for the ECU or the tuning. Realize that sometimes simpler is better. The Motec ECU can do some incredible things for instance but it's pricey and many of it's features you won't need. Allright, I'm done. I think. Probably my longest post ever - hope it takes it! I've probably made some errors, certainly some typos and spello's (shrug). I realize I've rambled too but kripes where do you start on this subject? Almost easier to talk in person and explain things. Hope I've not made this decision ever harder with too much info. We need a good EFI FAQ maybe? Or a site to point folks too? I'm not typing this more thn once but I'll edit it if people spot errors... [ August 30, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Heh, with as much salt as you guys throw on the roads up there I'm pretty surprised ANY Z has survived! I've seen bridge supports on the PA turnpike (I used to drive to Ohio with a girlfriend) that had concrete spalling and rebar rusting badly from all the junk. Pretty scary when the bridge you drive under has such corroded supports! Congrats on the progress and on the finds! Bummer about the dent though

You run a DFI, yes? What do you like about it? I can probably come up with a whole list of things I did NOT like about mine! Slow CPU and dated software that's barely being supported just being two of them. I'd not buy one of the older DFI systems if I had any choice at all. Unfotunatly when I bought mine it was one of the few "affordable" systems out there and the only one that would plug into a Mustang wiring harness. Today there are plenty of other choices that are better and that's where I'd put my money. The latest DFI stuff is supposed to be incredible but most everything I've seen written up is about the older system. [ August 30, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Lone hit it square on the head. I pulled the unit, looked it over, eveything looked fine Frustrated I began putting it back in... just as I did so I deced to slip the little added on casting piece back and examine the cup. It was tough to see in there but the silly thing dropped out of the clutch cup and was pointed down at the edge of the flywheel resting on the clutch lever! DOH! Slipped it up carefully and bolted it all together - ta da, fixed. Thank you Lone! I thought it was stiff enough to stick straight out when I put it in there (cough) but it wasn't (sigh). As for the restrictor - that's TRUE! I've seen some sites claim it might be LS1 only but I can confirm it's not. The hose that I've got out of a 94+ LT1 T56 HAS the restrictor. I intentionally cut it so that I could see if it was there and I see it plainly. I will cut the hose below that point, way below, when I hookup the -3 line to it. Anyway, took the car out for an extended spin tonight. Even did some highway driving! 6th gear is REAL low No speedo' onboard since I've not hooked it up (ahem) but it was moving. A few things to tighten and tune but clunks are gone, exhaust is loud, needs a tune BAD! Will work on that soon but for now it's running fine. WooHoo! Thanks for all th ehelp guys!

When I turboed the Mustang, hell when I put a Paxton on it, the VERY first thing I figured out was that using an FMU or other such add-on B.S. was silly. I learned that through trial and error. I promptly began researching and learning about EFI systems, how they worked, and what could be done to modify them. I'm still waiting for some elusive vaporware to come out that will allow me to reprogram my EECIV ECU. Do I know it all? Nope but I have researched systems. What did I say that you don't agree with? I tossed out info about systems that I have researched. I didn't pass judgement on them - for the most part. I'll add the PMS unit to my list of systems that I can at least talk about just as soon as I've got upgraded firmware and the software to program it in-house. P.S. Electromotive is blocks from my home. I've seen their software and had copies of it since before they gave it away - they used to charge quite a bit of cash for it. I've seen it's graphing abilities firsthand and read their claims of it being almost "self programmable". I know a bit about their company from employees and friends who know them as well. I've toured their facility, talked to their people, and I've bought parts from them. I nearly bought their full system for the Mustang but several factors, to include their price on a wiring harness at the time (!), caused me to stop that pursuit. I knew one of Peter Ferral's techs who programmed the TEC II on several cars including someof the race cars. He spoke highly of the units but had issues with reliability and found some quirks programming them. (shrug) I no longer have contact with him - I'll believe their new setup when it's actually out the door on the street. They're making some decent claims. At least the ignition packs are no longer on top of the ECU. [ August 30, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Y'all need to take a CLOSE look at th eWRX exhaust system while you're at it. Potential? How does a catalytic converter between the exhaust manifold and the turbo sound? Oh yeah, it's got "potential" allright Uncork that puppy and hold on! Motor and transaxle upgrades are coming too so I wouldn't buy one just yet...

My experience with my Ford twin turbo should help. Matting the pedal at a low RPM in a high(ish) gear would result in about 2-3lbs of boost before 2K RPM. By say 3500 RPM I would be looking at close to full boost up till redline. I limited boost to about 10lbs on that setup - compression was stock at about 9.2:1 or so. Figure it was just like a hopped up stock Mustang until boost was pushing and when it was even faster IMO even when boost isn't showing on the dial the turbos ARE helping, they've just not overcome the breathing ability of the motor. It's the diffence between having to draw air through a straw and having someone pushing a little air for you - you may still have to work but just not as hard. Make sense? Trust me guys, turbos on a V8 are plenty spunky and boost isn't a big issue if they're sized right. With twins you go for smaller turbos for quick spooling but together thay have quite a bit of airflow capability. A T25 is a small turbo but a pair on a 302 is enough for a streetable 450HP and a TON of torque. I had an issue with the wastegate once on one of the turbos. I saw a spike of 15+ PSI before I let out of it. That was pretty much one turbo doing that work since the other would've had it's wastegate open past 10lbs. there was LOT's of unused airflow potential in my setup One of these days I'll find soemthing to put those pig heavy cast manifolds into!

Be careful mounting turbos low. Mustang folks tried this at one point putting it beneath the battery tray. They found that a seperate pump was required to suck oil from the turbo up into the pan. When this pump fails the oil backs up into the turbo with "bad" results. Fiero kits also had this issue I'm told.

I'm a lousy driver but... 12.15@118mph - 2.2 60ft. Come third gear it MOVED! 4th gear passing felt like my old 3rd gear on the highway. Idled and sounded stock too. I raced a guy with a somewhat hopped up Mustang once. He left me at least 2 to 3 cars off the line. His friend later told me they thought they had the race sewn up. Suddenly they hard this screaming whoosh sound blow past them at just past half "track" (street race)! The top end charge was incredible (lol). A friend at the finish line said it was a wild race to watch as I screamed past him - several cars ahead of the other Mustang. I couldn't hook it up out of the hole and pretty much resigned myself to playing catch up whenever I raced. Somewhere here I documented a street race that nearly ended in a fist fight when a friend drove. Briefly - we were racing a TPI Camaro and my friend had never driven the car before. He ran the race "soft" but coming through third he matted it to try and get "a little ahead" to win the race - we were sandbagging. The fist fight nearly broke out because the kid swore we were running NOS, something we had claimed we weren't running - and weren't. Seems when my friend matted third the car pulled away that fast! Eventually we let him peek under the hood after he had already checked the trunk and backseat - not sure what he saw except for lot's of polished stuff but he handed over the cash swearing. turns out his "mostly stock" 350 TPI had "everything" done to it in the way of bolt-ons or so he said afterwards (no blower, no NOS). Oh well, that's street racing for you (lol). I did beat a few NOS cars too but my driving pretty much sux. Done right a turbo car sleeps real nice...

NO! That bracket will work - is what's on my car. Head over to the plumbing aisle and grab some short PVC pieces. I think I used something liek 1/2inch but it might have been smaller. Also grab some longer mounting bolts for the JTR bracker - I used stainless carriage bolts. Drop the bolts through the frame, through the PVC "spacers", and through the JTR bracket. Consider placing stainless fender washers above the PVC so it'll spread the loading. This will drop the radiator about an inch or whatever amount you chose to use with the PVC. works fine on my car. Oh, I also used nuts with the nylon inside them to keep them tight. Be careful wrenching down as you can collapse the frame section if you're not careful (ahem). Up top I used S10 urethane radiator mounts - cheap cheap - and some aluminum strap that I also used to hang the cut down Cobra cooling fan. Down below the S10 stuff didn't seem to work as well so I too grabbed some old door weatherstripping and caulked it into place If you want to see pics check out my site. I'm not sure I've got pics of the silly looking PVC part but the fan and upper mount is certainly there. I can take other pics if needed. Hope that helps - you're on the right track!

Well, I had to compress the sucker to get it in there. I suppose it's possible that it's not on the lever maybe? I will check this tomorrow, I got pretty frustrated tonight and gave up. Working on this alone is a PITA - have no way to know when all bubbles are out of the silly line bleeding it this way! I'll make sure th elever is on the clutch too - can't imagine it would've slipped off for no reason but maybe? Also - while doing this the fitting I had JB Welded into the slave moved a bit. It didn't leak or anything but it's not as solid as I'd like. Had the previous fitting shot out while I was in traffic I'd have had to drive home sans clutch and might have even rear-ended someone if I'd been at a light (shiver). As it was I was lucky I had just turned the motor off otherwise I'd have taken a trip into my engine hoist in the garage! So, PO'ed anyway I pulled up JEGs and have put in an order for the following parts: 1 part #023-FCM1100 -3 TFE straight hose end 1 part # 799-661751 Russell -3 to -4 flare adapter, this is the "magic part". 1 part #799-610010 -4 Russell hose end. Note that this isn't for the TFE hose. The GM stuff appears to be "normal" braided line. All together this was a little over $20. Next day air drove it up a bit on my order though I want to drive this thing darn it! Lastly, I could've ordered, and would've preferred, 1 part #361-63011724 but it was out of stock. That $20 part is a -3 to -3 Earl's brake hose with a 90 degree on one end. I would've used that from the master to the union and dumped the -3 straight end. NOT cheap but when dealing with things like fuel and brake lines I honestly prefer a premade line (ahem). Summit doesn't appear to carry those. I've used them in the past for running a high pressure fuel line to an isolator for a fuel pressure gauge. It's good stuff! Perhaps later, I think my current -3 line is now okay after having redone a leaking fitting. So, I'll let everyone know how these parts work out and if I have any trouble with the GM -4 hose or not - don't order yet. Rather than cutting, tapping, and praying I think using the GM OEM fitting might be best. I'll sure be happy when the bugs are all worked out of this puppy (sigh)

Okay, I've installed my refurbished and JB Welded slave. I don't think it's going to hold and will be ordering the parts to use th estock GM hose tonight. However that's not currently my problem (sigh). Upon installing the slave I've got a VERY stiff pedal and the clutch isn't disengaging properly. This has got to be a bleed problem but I didn't have these problems last time darn it! My install was as follows - install line at both ends, slave hanging free. Open bleeder at master, loop hose into fluid well, pump pedal. Close bleeder. Open line at bottom at slave until fluid came out, close line. By hand press the VERY stiff slave 5 or 6 times slowly full stroke. Bolt slave to the transmission. Pedal is stiff but I'm pretty sure that it's on the clutch arm fine. When I cranked up the car (on jackstands) with the pedal down and in gear the wheels turned! Argh! It was fine before - what have I missed? While I was at it I had to redo a line end too (sigh). It was leaking badly but hadn't before! The pedal seemed fine before the slave blew - WTF?! Pretty sure all internal parts are installed correctly - I was careful. Help? If it wasn't bled of air it would be soft right? That's the way it was before I bled it - very soft....

Ya, that's the bolt. It shouldn't SPROING any spring etc.

Please make that three if it works out. I'm always up for more power and turbos rock! May go ATI down the road but hey a turbo is pretty neat and quiet.

Thank you for chekcing into this, I appreciate it! $500 is a bit steep right now for a project I might not need and is a long term project. If nothing you're giving us a good idea as to what they go for in general. Going to have to search here and see what ratios there are avalable. At least there are no clutches in them to replace. I can confirm that my LSD catches posi though