BLKMGK

Heh, guess who's next likely to get pulled over for this I'm thinking that perhaps some additional muffling might be good after the short drive home today. Car screams nicely in 1st and 2nd! I've had the same sort of thing occur with th epolice. I once asked an officer to tell me where his car was when he claimed I spun my wheels. He thought he'd pulled over a punk and got quite a shock. His answer was that he would answer my stupid questions in court. Long story short, it ended in court without going before the judge and he apologized to me. I was ready with witnesses and was going to make a complete monkey out of him I almost wished I had gotten the chance!

Also.. half engine speed or woudl you say full engine speed? Did you have th epan off at all? Is it a different pan? Possible the pan got banged and is touching the rotating assembly? (been there, done that!)

Some interesting intercooler things I've learned... I was reading an Aussie site not long ago (can't recall name but it's VERY popular and has a subscription area too) and ran across some interesting tests. They were screwing around with spraybar. Spraybar is what racing aircraft use to cool their intercoolers (only place I've ever seen the term). Spraybar is what they call th efluid they spray ON the intercoolers while racing. It's usually some sort of wateralcohol witch's brew that's suppposed to remove heat from the intercooler. Anyway, they found that if they activated their sprayer under hard boost that intake temps did NOT decrease! However shortly after the high boost period passed and they let off the intake temps plummeted. After some fooling aorund they came to the conclusion that intercoolers are more heatsink type devices then they are active coolers of the airstream. That is to say there's some hysteresis going on and a delayed effect from the application of the water. So, how does this apply? What this means is that a water/air intercooler is going to act like a big heatsink too. The larger the resevoir of water the more heat you can absorb before temps begin to rise. Folks think that water/air combos aren't great on the street due to the water heating up. However it would seem that the slightly warmer than ambient water, given a decent sized resevoir, isn't that big a deal. The water can still absorb a TON of heat. Raising or lowering the temp of water takes a bunch of energy in a large enough body. A well built water/air setup ought to work pretty good on the street IMO. Heck, the Ford Lightnings are doing well enough! You might even want to pirate one of their water pumps since it's obviously rated for 100% duty cycle. I'd consider using something other than a glycol mix too - something to kill oxidation and something to break water tension like Water Wetter. Ought to be pretty nice.... Of course an air/air cooler is less complicated...

I think anohter attraction to the R230 is it's gear ratios. I think they may be high for a V8 but they're attractive to the L6 crowd. It's also a VISCOUS LSD that has no clutches to wear. Yeah, the Reider is nice but it's BIG BUX! Price is an issue but right now we don't know what the R230 custom parts cost so getting too excited about cost is early yet. If it's a CV swap as well then those custom parts, which might be super beefy, become just that more attractive. I'd take custom parts if they were strong enough that breaking them wasn't a worry...

Aux, try hosting the WEB server (please God, NOT IIS! Anything but that!) on another port and you can direct to that IP address would look something like this http://IPADDRESSHERE:PORTHERE the colon does the magic so to speak (a punny!).

So... shafts, adapters, and diff mount were all custom. Yup, that's what I'd expect to find in a kit then The info is out there for sure but it's not as well documented as say the 3.7 LSD swap. That one is pretty dead solid documented and doesn't require custom much of anything. I wish the R230 were that simple but obviously it's not, hence the demand for a kit. Something put together by someone who has tested and knows that it fits right. I don't know what a reasonable price would be but folks should take into consideration what an LSD R200 costs these days if you can find it (as much as $500!) vs an R230 that falls out of lot's more cars. Plus you get a diff that's years newer and probably in better shape, other than potentially weight where's the downside? You get CVs with that swap? If so terrific and I'll bet that new replacement parts for them can be found too! Lot's of good reasons to consider the R230 but most of us aren't engineers, don't have access to machine facilities, and aren't willing to experiment with expensive one-off components. Yup, that's a swap who's demand probably rates right up there behind rear disk brakes IMO. P.S. Upload those picstech writeup. I'd love to see it and plan for the future!

I believe that the stock unit is a much smaller bore. There have been discussions here at least once on what size is the "right" one to buy. The consensus may have been somehting other than the JTR recommended size so if I were you I'd search a bit. I believe I have the JTR size and so far, with the little bit of driving I've done (*cough*), it seemed fine. YMMV however I think yanking the stock one is a must if you're using a different slave. At least one person got the stock slave working with, I assume, the stock master. Is this for a T56 or T5? If T56 don't sweat the taping of the plastic (shiver) slave. I did but it actually turned out pretty good, much to my surprise.

Hrm, since they sned them out for coating... why not skip the custom logo and go right for a custom color? That might allow you to mixmatch he models and still get the color? Or are they strict on that too? Finding two or three people doing anentire setup that just wanted color seems like it would be easier to me... Hrm, find that MC by any chance? And yeah the domain is easier to remember but now all my friends want me to explain it

Seems to me that fron and rear would be two pair - no? Must they be 10 of he exact model etc.? Probably but ya' never know Hrm, how about purple calipers? Red would be fine too IMO. Not that I'll be swapping mine out anytime soon mind you

Heh, someone needs to puzzle out the R230 swap once and for all and offer up either plans or parts to make it a bolt-on affair. Stronger and more available with gear ratios that the L6 guys would love.... Ross, you want a new business idea there's one for ya'

Umm, one drop is all it takes! Remember what's at the end of that line? Yup, a whole tank of gas and don' think for a second that th evapor that comes out of that pipe isn't flammable as all heck either. That one drop ignites, the vapor burns, oh boy mission conrol we've got a problem! I too have been there, done that, and watched my first car burn. Gas is nothing to fool with, pick a different exit, vent it to the catch can in the passenger rear, do something. For that matter, I'm now considering venting my tank to the little tank Datsun put in the back passenger side and then venting THAT tank like I am now. It would at least keep liquid gas from spilling anywhere I'd think... Trans first...

I'm with Pete, people who ask nicely and respectfully will always get the same from me. As for 13s being slow... My Mustang stock was in the 14s. It didn't take long to fix that but keep that in prespective. Way back in the "heyday" of the 60's all the "supercars" were lucky to get much into the 13s and a 12second daily driver would be a rare find indeed. 13s is nothing to sneeze at and it wasn't until fairly recently that it was pretty hard to achieve and stay streetable. That's not a bad number and you'll probably give quite a few challengers a surprise. 12s however would be even more fun

Hrm, mine was a little over 8 months and due to some setbacks still isn't 100%. Most of my slowdown was waiting on parts, adding things to my list to do that I hadn't planned on, changing my mind, and silly things like that. I've rebuilt nearly my entire suspension, all new brakes, all new wheelstires, new 'glass hood and bumpers, cagefuel cell, new gauges, LSD rear, and on and on. You get the idea The swap itself really wasn't that hard IMO. Oh, and I think my car will be more go than show. It's going to be a driver and the budget is toast - I don't care

What's everyone using for a thermo switch on their fans? I bought one of th ereplacement sensors they sell for mine and wired it to the gorund of a relay - doesn't seem to be working though. Argh!

I'm not sure how to answer your question but I can tell you what I've done. Vent from the fuel cell right over to a hole in the fender to vent. I'm NOT comfortable with it but I'm not sure what else I can do. For a little while, and I mean only a few days, I had the vent shut with a cap. The darned cell now "oil cans" from the expansion it did! There wasn't even any gas in it when this occured... I've got a roll over valve for it but it seems you have to DRILL an additional hole to fit it - it won't screw into th event. I've also got a one way valve I thought I'd use on th event until I realized that it won't really do anything more than what I've got now (hard to explain). IMO, if the pickup for that "vent" is at anytime below fuel level it CAN put gas up the pipe. NOT cool, I would at least vent it someplace where there's no exhaust to be found...

Good point - it's not like we've got 10inches of suspension travel. Heck some of us are probably lucky to have 4! Progressive sound good on paper but I'm not sure that this application is a really good one for them...

Hrm, the Outlaws ARE made from aluminum so it occurs to me that they could always be polished if you wanted a bright finish However I'm pretty sure that would cut down on their heat rejection. Black is fine by me as is the silver rotor. If the hub were more visible it might look nice in a different color. Isn't it possible to do anodizing at home? I seem to recall that it's simply oxidation that's been controlled, right? Migh tbe interesting to research. Purple would be my favorite choice but I think it tends to fade in the sun...

Don't think it'll be safer. when it does break I doubt the shards would be as gentle as "safety glass". Plus Lexan will probably scratch more readily. Lastly, UV will probably cloud it or make it brittle over time. I'd certainly talk to some racers who are running this stuff and make sure that what you buy is tried and true over time. I have no dooubt that in the short run it'll be great but you may find that once it's seen some weather and time that it will need replacing more often than you'd like. Me, I'll stick to glass and not sweat the few lbs I'd save.

I'm with Dan, the shop labor is the wildcard here. $2K at my friend's shop doesn't take long if you're haivng major work done. Perhapa get themotor swapped in before the bodywork in order to make sure you've got enough money? I still think spending more ona body that doesn't need paint is th ebes idea. I'm not super hot on my car's color but it sure beats paint jail

Don't get me wrong, I love turbos! However they're comlex and generate heat. Blowers make power differently too. Done properly you'll have a belt that's wide enough and has enough "wrap" that high tension isn't required on th ebelt. I used to run my Paxton tight as a bowstring and I have no doubt that it contributed some wear. Heck, I even used belt dressing to get more traction! The ATI unit I have now on the other hand has a very wide belt, tons of wrap, and a spring loaded tensioner - it's about as tight as a standard fan belt if that. Shouldn't be any big wear issues with that sort of setup... P.S. just read a dyno test where a 75 and 90mm TB were checked out on a 427cube motor. No significant HP differences found. 75mm should be good for most apps. [ August 12, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Yup, thank SCCA for turning me onto them. They fit pretty nice and hold a ton of water - awesome cooling! Put a decent fan on it and you shouldn't ever have to worry IMO.

Entire swap, to a GN drivetrain, including purchase of car wpaint&bodywork done, for $8K?! Umm, no I don't see it happening. I'm sorry but by the time all of the little knit noidy stuff is added in you're going to be looking at more than that. Going to do brakes and suspension? More money. Want a decent paint job? Ouch! If you've only got $8K to spend buy a decent car in good shape that doesn't need bodywork. Then consider something like a turbo motor from a 280ZXT. These are cheap, can be made to run well, and you'll probably make it within your budget pretty eaily. GN motors on the other hand are NOT cheap and if you're paying shop labor to do things I'd figure several grand in that alone for the GN swap... Guys, am I way off base here?

Yes, I've done this with guidance form MikeSCCA over at Fonebooth.com. The rear hubs are a PITA to drill but can be done if you're careful and follow Mike's steps for drilling them. If you don't or push the bit you'll trash it completely! Mike makes a nice punch to really ease this task too.. The front is MUCH easier and involves swapping to 300ZX hubs and drilling them. I used ARP studs all around. My wheels ended up being Mustang wheels by Konig with +20mm in back and +40mm in front. I used small spacers to get it just right. This was with 17X8 wheels so YMMV. All in all it wasn't too bad to do but it's probably easiest if you're switching to disk brakes in the back. [ August 11, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Breaking belts? Never done that before on a blower I AM starting to hear rumblings about ATI's blowers though. The shop is starting to see more failures than they have in the past. Were they not as closely tied to ATI as they are they say they'd have more trouble warranteeing the blowers. This is torubling since they've had such good results with ATI in the past. They've actually said the Paxton word which is scary as I've had such a low opinion of their stuff in the past (having owned some of it). We'll see - if they switch I'll be surprised but bad product is really bad for business! Who pays for the R&R of a bad blower? Ouch... Paxton outlet temps are supposed to be noticably lower too but the ATI intercooler makes up for that. ATI could be in trouble if Paxton starts using intercoolers... Dunno what I will do in th efuture with my car, I'll watch to see what the shop does. A turbo is nice but the plumbing and heat issue turn me off. Been there, done that. If this were a Ford 302 I'd be more interested since the manifolds would be "free" Maybe a 2nd Z later on? The woman would kill me (lol). I'll keep my eyes open for SBC turbo stuff guys...

Yeah, I have a CVR now but it's not in yet. The JTR recommended LT1 starter could barely turn my motor over! $200 down the drain but I guess it's a good spare for theImapalla The CVR has a 4:1 reduction, I'll let everyone know how it goes...