BLKMGK

I'd echo what Ross said about the studs, they were installed on mine without pulling the stubs. I DID have to pull the strut to drill it though, I'll see in a few days if they were drilled straight or not (ahem). My stubs are NOT upgraded but I figure on doing it ifwhen they break I'll switch to CVs at that point too. I think we can agree to disagree on spacers. I don't much lke them and am quite happy that mine are paper thin and don't change my lug spacing.

Well, all of my gauges are wired together for the most part. Only a couple of wires takes car of all of them After getting this far tearing it apart again would just kill me. A/C is becoming a must though - geez it's hot here this week! 103+ with a TON of humidity. Glad the daily commuter is healthy and has A/C!

Heh but except for posted times most of us aren't in there. I'll try to make it tonight if I don't pass out. I didn't sleep very well last night for some reason I think it had something to do with me bouncing off the walls with excitement - woke me up at 3AM and no sleep since..

Pull the steering column cover and look for monkey business, I was pretty shocked when I saw th esplicing mine had endured. Higher wattage bulbs are often installed and since the juice goes right thorugh the headlight switch smoke often follows shortly afterwards. Relays, per the tech article here, will fix this and make the headlights MUCH brighter. Straighten up any other garbage you find in the column - it could be pretty bad. Get the Jags That Run swap book. It'll tell you how it SHOULD be wired. It sounds like somone really fiddled around and didn't have guidance while wiring the car. Follow their directions and you may fix LOT'S of issues. Hrm, is the motor set back all the way with the distributor under the hood latch or is it further forward? Lastly, find the sparkplug problem. If it's only missing a little at idle it'll miss worse higher up. as cylinder pressure rises the spark has to be hotter to jump the gap and spark. If there's something marginal anywhere that leaves a lower resistance path that's where the spark WILL go! Check the condition of the wires and all of the plugs, you may find the problem. If one plug is really dirty it may be the one misfiring too Congrats on the puchase BTW, good buy! Post some pics please! It's always nice to see someone else's ride...

Hrm, BIG wheel spacers are scary, thinner ones aren't so bad. IF you're running ARP studs, I am, then the spacer you can run safely is probably wider than with stock lugs. The spacers that use a second set of lugs actually scare me the most - what if the lug pulls out of the aluminum?! I'd rather have it solidly attached to the hub thank you very much. (shiver) To each his own, Evanvhas had good luck with various spacers as I recall and has a good source for them too. Selling those wheels and getting the "correct" ones would be best of course but it's not always easy to get a set you like with the right offset and pattern. Convert to 5lug and things get much easier though...

Thanks, I feel MCUH better about not having pressure now - whew! I've done NOTHING to the brakes other than swapping in the disks. I figure I'll see how it goes without gutting the valve in the back and whatnot and only make changes as needed. I might have to replace it all mind you but I'll do it one step at a time. Thanks again, that's a load off of my mind and explains why Mike said o put lines on the rear and plug them. I think I'd rather wait for lines though (lol). A shame all of the aftermarket masters I've looked at are single and not double else maybe we could find something other than Nissan to replace this for more volume...

Hrm, a shame the FOX headers don't fit th eZ chassis - I know where there's a pair of T25 turbos on cast manifolds in that form factor. Need some work and some porting wouldn't hurt either but they ran well when last used. I have this fantasy of using them again but at the rate I'm going it'll be forever... Why not a Ford motor and try some of the junkyard Turbo install ricks that have been done with flipped headers? Hegith would be my worry but perhaps Mike could sort of peek under his hood with a header in one hand to give us an eye ball idea on this. somewhere here the site with the junkyard turbo project has been linked. I used 2.3L turbos - two - and ran pretty well as I recall.

Heh, I guess if they rate them at high PSI it'll flow more down low? At least it won't croak if you run a blower and one of those damned FMUs that cap off the return. Silly Paxton unit killed my stock Ford fuel pump in less than a week (ahem). Talk about spiking the fuel pressure!

In my case I get really mushy pedal and no apparent pressure to the brakes. My rear lines are non-existant and there's NO fluid in the rear cup of th emaster. I have no doubt this accounts for some of the effects I'm seeing (ahem). The fronts will be bled further today just to make 100% sure there's no air in them. I get a decent amount of fluid through them when bleeding but the pedal goes right to the floor with only a little sensation at the very bottom. Capped up it's not much better, even with the motor running. Prior to swapping out everything the brakes were fine so I expect that switching to larger capacity calipers and having the open rear lines is the cause rather than any bad parts.

300ZX front hubs will bolt on but the track changes noticably. I do NOT believe that 300ZX front calipers will bolt on but you may be able to use the rotors, MikeSCCA would know for sure. In the rear you have to redrill your stock hubs and can use 300ZX rotors but the calipers are again NOT a bolt-on affair - the CNC bracket Ross and SCCA are working on would be needed with say SX calipers. It's not hard to upgrade to 5lug but it's not a complete straight bolt-on either.

I've driven (and own) both N/A and boosted cars. That has included a turbo 5.0 and nwo a supercharged 351W (barely driven though) along with a turbo rotary. Honestly, no feeling in th eworld beats a motor as it hits boost. The rush of power be it supercharged or turbo is pretty darned incredible. If you're looking for a drivetrain that will provide good power "stock" and can handle somefabrication look to Scottie's Buick swap. Decent MPG for a dialy driver but it ROX on boost. If the Ford swap is easier and more your style realize that there are used Vortechs, ATI, and even gear driven Paxton blowers all over the place. It's a little louder but it can be bolted onto a pretty stock 5.0 and bring th epower up considerably. You're NOT stuck with stock power in a 5.0 and used parts like heads and intake darn near fall out of trees if you look outside. Obviously a blower or heads is going to cost a bit of cash but it will wake up a 5.0 pretty easily - especially in such a light car. I'm wondering how long MikeSCCA will hold out before breaking down and getting a blower Packaging a blower in the Z might take some work but if you've managed to make the motor mounts then the blower shouldn't be much harder. IMO either path would be fine and there's always NOS too. Go with what you're comfortable doing but don't think that a V8 will dead-end you at all.

If anyone does this upgrade in th enear future I'd appreciate a tech article on it. Finally gettign my car running I'm, a little hesitant to tear it apart again but getting an upgrade to blade fuses sure would be nice. Perhaps this Winter or next Spring I'll do it after I've got a few miles under my belt. The more info on doing it the better!

Well, was kind of looking for just the throttle bodies and parts. If I buy the Holley commander setup I have to use their intake and their computer. I'm not yet sure that's the path I want to take although having it all in one package DOES have some attraction. Am half tempted to simply make an adapter plate for a Ford throttle body. At sizes up to 90+mm I'm sure it would flow enough air and I'd just have to figure out an air cleaner assembly for it Ford TB's are cheap and easy to come by...

Drat - lost my reply.. Aeromotive, Mallory, Paxton, Walbro, Accel, Vortech - all make EFI pumps. The E150 Van pump talked about awhile ago actually sounded good to me (OEM) but I'm not sure of the rating. Mallory makes some good ones IMO. Check th eMustang mags for PLENTY of fuel pumps - some inline some not. Just understand that BIG pumps are VERY loud and can brun out quickly if designed for race use and put on the street. (Walbro, Aeromotive, possibly the Paxton (I've got one!)). Here's some to consider... http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=6285&prmenbr=76&path=76%202317%202339%202341 http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=5924&prmenbr=76&path=76%202317%202339%202341 http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=27585&prmenbr=76&path=76%202317%202339%202341 (Holley) http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=26182&prmenbr=76&path=76%202317%202339%202341 (Comp110FI) http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=6203&prmenbr=76&path=76%202317%202339%202341 (I've got this one - LOUD!) Hope that helps ya' out

I remember his old tube chassis - talk about sweet! However while I understand his reason for being grouchy it IS turning away business. We ALL have bad days but to be short with customers is inexcusable. I wanted hsi glass bumpers and because he was short with me I bought them elsewhere. He lost a sale - period. I wanted a 'glass hood - I didn't even bother calling him after the previous experience. In the future I may want flares and other parts, I won't call him. I wanted bigger brakes, same thing. He was rude to me once and made it sound like a bother to even speak to me! I know it's a tough business but he picked it and if he'd been helpful he would've made money off of me. A friend owns a Mustang shop, I see the window shoppers come in ALL the time. He's got an attitude because of it too but for now it's not hurting him because of the demand - Arizona doesn't have that luxury Im afraid.

I'd like to see a pic too - then I might like to have one made of CF. I want to do some CF stuff and am really thinking that there are a few flat easy pieces I can try and not screw up too badly.... the little dogleg cardboard things just behind the criver's and passenger's seats for starters

I sort of skimmed this the foirst time but... I'm not sure what you measn by locator hole. Do you mean a non-threaded hole in the flywheel? My Centerforce flywheel had one hole NOT tapped that corresponded with a threaded hole in the crank. I had it tapped and it seems fine. Oh, and don't be a dummy liek I was - buy NEW flywheel bolts. Not having done that is going to HAUNT me until I can correct it. ARP's don't fit on the Centerforce T56 flywheel either. Guess how I know this

Mike, would that possibly hold true for my car with the Outlaws? I'm just a little nervous that I've got almost ZERO brake pressure right now with just the front brakes hooked up. I'm not going to panic until after the rears are done but right now I'm a little worried and am trying to plan what I might have to do.

Thank you, that explains much as the rear is pretty low right now. I expected the wheels to camber inwards but not to toe in like a kid needing a brace. I'll drive it before I get too panicked but I'm interested in the bushings too. Hrm, Mike's arms would fix this too wouldn't they? How much is too much? If there's one thing (okay one more thing) I'm ignorant about it's alignment. Will be watching tire wear closely!

An S2000 motor? Oooh, piss of the purists AND the Honda guys Those puppies redline at what, 10,000RPM? What's an S2K weight in at? If it's less than the Z forget it as the torque is low and it might be a pig aorund town. Honestly, the S2K motor sounds pretty neat to me but I know little about them. I did see a road test on one and was turned off by the silly digital dash. Bleah!

Okay, my "secret" to putting pics here is as follows - I use the image button below Seriously, I used to try and do it other ways and just always screwed it up. I DO simply paste in URLs and let the software convert them for me. Can't help you with GeoCities though. I THINK there's a way to simply FTP to them but I'm not sure how. Honestly I gave up on them awhile ago as I'm NOT an HTML wiz. My site is "easy" becasue I know how to use the software it's based on (Notes) and it does most everything for me... Oh and the Woman tinkers with the HTML constantly - it's become quite the pig but I didn't say that (ahem).

Looking at 10's? He's running 11.1's now shifting into OVERDRIVE before the lights! His car, on the street, can hardly get any traction on low boost w/drag radials - I've seen it! An LT1 would be a great swap but cost will have much to do with where you get the motor. Figure $3K minimum (IMO) and as much as $1700 for the T56 or as little as $800 if you score well. It really varies. Don't forget the wiring harness, radiator ($180), cooling fan ($35-100+), fuel pump (cell?) and other things. It adds up but when done that GT will feel like a slug I promise. You've probably come up against a Camaro or two, probably lost (I'm a Ford guy but...). Now imagine that Camaro with about 1000lbs removed form it

Put the turbos ahead of th emotor - I've seen this done on Fordas and it works WELL. A single turbo would be fine IMO and if it could be made to fit and offered as some form of kit I'd buy it Carb is fine but if I were to do it I'd swap on a throttle body. If you run into problem there's no reason why you couldn't do this as well. OEM EFI intakes aren't too great for higher RPM and are generally built for torque - a carb intake is what you'll want anyway. I'm presently watching two Cutler TBs on E-Bay right now but they're a Dominator flange. Hard to adapt to a 4150 flange? Should I just consider a Dominator intake? What's Cutler's (now Holly?) home page? I've had no luck finding it so far.

I've got FlowTech headers on my 383 and it was obvious as soon as I laid the FelPro header gasket that came with my heads on it. Pics on my site but from the start it was obvious there was too small a primary. On top of that my STRAIGHT plugs were pretty tight and one actually backs into the header tube. Lastly, they're pretty, they're coated, they fit aorund the motor mounts like a glove but... the guy doing the install of the exhaust claims that one leaks due to a faulty weld at the collector. DOH! So, I too am interested in headers but for straight plugs. I'm not sure what I'll do with these to be honest. I've not heardseen th eleak yet so perhaps it's okay...

Hrm, are you planning to use an aftermarket harness like the one from Painless or try to use Nissan stuff? Aftermarket tach? Aftermarket A/C? IMO aftermarket all the way might be easier but I'm still crutching along with the stock harness myself...