BLKMGK

Ah, okay - I'm learning a bit more about T56 since it seems I might be shopping for another... T56 from 94-97 is what we want unless you're doing an LS1. Th eLS1 T56 cannot be used with an older SBC or LT1. The 93's are less desirable due to their 100ftlbs lower torque rating and .6 6th gear instead of .5 Note that the 93 replacement T56 is "only" $1800 rather than $2K+. Ouchie! P.S. Just got a quote on a 97 trans with only 27K miles on it. $1200 w/core, $1500 without. OOUUCHH! Don't yet know what a new one would cost but if it could be gotten for $2K I'd seriously consider the new one. I'm not doing anything with that though until the case of my existing one is cracked open and inspected. (shiver) [ August 11, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Umm, Tim? Why do you think you won't need a trans blanket with that transmission? Automatic transmissions grenade just like stick shift ones do. Flexplates can fly though the car as can bits of torque converter. They have SFI bells for powerglides - the rest usually have to wear diapers

Umm, Tim? Why do you think you won't need a trans blanket with that transmission? Automatic transmissions grenade just like stick shift ones do. Flexplates can fly though the car as can bits of torque converter. They have SFI bells for powerglides - the rest usually have to wear diapers

Mike, is that the video clip you sent me? If so perhaps I can host. I've got a Domain registration coming at last too so it'll be easier in the future My own server, they can't complain if I host video but it might make my bitty connection slow if everyone jumps on it at once. Would DIVx bother anyone? Could someone compress it maybe?

Ever worked with a DFI? I have - it's on my shelf inthe garage along with the harness to mate it to an EEC-IV harness. It was a PITA without any help locally an dwhile it ran it took a bunch of effort for me to get it where it should be - it had lot's left too. I tried it with the 351Wprocharger and finally gave up to get a chipped EEC-IV. If th emotor isn't super radical the EEC-IV is pretty good and actually given a choice between MAF and MAP I'd take MAF all day long. MAF systems actually measure the airflow, something that cannot be said for MAP systems that simply infer the airflow. Lot's to be said for aftermarket EFI but the older DFI like I've got leaves much to be desired. Check out the Felpro system, the SDS, the Electromotive, and others - the DFI is getting a bit long in the tooth IMO. However, I might be talked out of mine for the right price

Ya', CAD plating would be very nice. I believe my RX7 rotors have it and they actually still look gold pretty nicely. Do the calipers too if you can. Maybe I'm just spoiled [ August 10, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

I THINK the LS1 started in 99 but since it's from a 'Vette I'm really not sure. You may have a really good find on your hands! Heh, keep your eyes peeled for any others, I might need one

Mike, are you sure there are cars on the road who's REAR disks are larger in the back than the front? That's insane...

I too have a 72 and am a Ford guy - duh questions? Wazzat? Like when you can't figure out WHY Chevy starters need to be shimmed?! Oh yea, I understand now HP, well as others said as much as you want. Past a certain point it makes no real sense though probably as it'll just break things or go up in smoke. I'm shooting for about 450 horse with maybe a bottle to back it up. Carb'ed first, then EFI, then maybe a blowwer - we'll see. More cubes will give you easier power but probably a lower RPM threshold. I went with a 383 stroker but others have gone for 327, 302, Buick 231, all sorts of things. If this will be a driver maybe consider an LT1 with EFI out of a wrecked Camarobird. A/C - you can retrofit A/C into the 72. It was done way back then, it can be done now. Be aware though that the blower motors are pretty bad. For this reason I want to use Vintage Air in my car. First however I've got to get the intake to stop leaking water and th etrans to run in all gears (grumble). I believe at least one of us has gone this route - done correctly you'll have nice cool A/C

Everyone starts somewhere. Earlier is better and I'd advise you to read everything you can get your hands on to speed the learning curve. You NEVER know when something you read somwhere will be helpful when you least expect it. I'll never forget the time I tore down the car's carb when I was 16. Doing this while my parent's primary transportation was in the shop and this was our only car was probably a bad idea in retrospect. Putting it together only to have the engine die after about 5mins of running wasn't a good sign the first three times I tested it (lol). My parents were on pins and needles but I figured it out and we all got where we needed to go the next day just fine! I'm still not sure it ever ran any better but I had fun anyway

70mm would work fine, I know others running as big as 90mm though. It's not like sizing a carb, you can run BIG throttle bodies but throttle RESPONSE is what suffers a bit. A crack of a 90mm throttle body moves MUCH more air than a 60mm. Throttle feel is WAY different (trust me!). However, as easy as it is to find Ford TBs I'd say go 70 or 75mm and if you ever need to move up bigger ones are readily available. Hrm, and 450hp is going to be hard to hit. I expect that with mild boost you'd be in the 500HP range easy with a well built motor. You could always keep the boost down of course but with only a few lbs used what was the point? Belt driven centrifigul is what's attracting me Injectors... Depends. If the HP rises as you run more boost you can bump fuel pressure but at some point you'll be swapping injectors. What works well for a NA setup will probably end up getting swapped for a blown application. Bigger injectors don't have the "resolution" of smaller ones so you don't want to go too big. My Ford runs 42s and should support over 600HP (there's math for this BTW) but I know guys with blown Cobras running 72s or bigger (gulp). Driveability is slightly compromised but doing the math they can support some serious HP. Actually it's odd, they can support far more with those injectors than they make but for some reason it's felt big ones are required. I dunno. In fact with 42s, which looked good on paper, my car runs a good bit rich. Part of this is an O2 issue but I don't think it's all that. I'll find out sometime in the future but I have a feeling that experience means at least as much in this area as th emath. turning down fuel pressur eonly works to a certain extent BTW - at too low a pressure they dribble rather than squirt. How's all that for really muddy?

JetHot and others also have "emissive" coatings that help them radiate heat rather than contain heat. These are often used on intake manifolds and such and I think are black in color. I have NO idea what the costs might be but for the ugly SX brakes it's probably a much nicer finish than stock. Actually, how do the SX calipers look bead blasted?

Oh yes, this would be INCREDIBLE! The sound alone would be sweet. A rotary at full song is one bizarre sunding thing let me tell you. I wonder what they're selling these for...

Heads up - turbo on E-Bay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=594009287 Note the cast iron turbo exhaust manifold off to the side!

Always except when out racing on the weekends

I used braided all the way back, no return at this time. If I were to use a solid type line it would've been aluminum. Cheap and "easy" to work with. IMO of course, I've never run a solid line before and have always run braided..

Bleah, the CNC brackets going on with the grup buy are probably easier Scottie. Depending on what dealer you talk to that brack is unubtanium from them too Ross and Mike's bracket looks to fix that... Considering some of the truly whacky parts cobos folks around here come up with I'd say that some have spent TOO much time in the junkyards. Supra brakes? AMC halfshafts? Yikes!

LOL, I'll admit I've nto spent time in the yards but I know that at least a few folks here have spent QUITE a bit of time in yards looking for thos esuckers. Knowing th epossible years - exectly - that these are supposed to have been used on will sure help. I've heard all sorts of different stories on which is the magic year both here and on Zcar! I think I liek th eones Mike made for me but an E-brake sure will be nice when that's done

Two problems - cast iron (heavy) and only 1.5inch primary. IMO I think if I was going to spring for that much money it would have to be bigger. I see no mention of use with straight or angled plugs either bu tI may have missed it. I suppose it could be ported but it also needs to be coated. $350 is just the entrance fee, it goes upwards from there. (sigh) Darned nice headers though! I seem to recall another company that we all liked awhile back but can't quite remmeber the ame. Anyone? I've not yet hit the search engine for this yet bu twill once I figure out if these headers will last me awhile or not

I'm with Pete, a used T56 over a Tremec as th eprices are probably close. Shop hard for th eT56 and you may find it cheap - record I've seen is $800 I think. Tremec is notchy IMO, do you want that ona road course? T5 is pretty smooth and will last if you don't beat it and run synthetic fluids - budget for breakage though... Oh, and the T56 migh trequire a Centerforce flywheel depending on th emotor you've got. 2 Piece rear seal = $250 flywheel so budget that if you ponder the T56! P.S. Another data point - seems my T56 is a bit hosed. This was NOT a local yard and it was bought months ago so I'm pretty well shafted here. I can probably get it fixed locally though. Consider this when purchasing a used transmission. [ August 08, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]

Yes, I've gone with Sparco hood pins on my car. Simply replaced th erubber bumpers with them and it's good to go. These are aluminum units and "self contained" so they shouldn't get loststolen and won't rust. However they provide ZERO security. They weren't super cheap but they also weren't a million bux. I may have a pic of them on my site, if not I can certainly take one. The color went well wiht the rest of my car and they come in several other colors as well (anodized).

Yupper! I wonder what a Z3 vent would look like in there?

The $950 is for BILLET calipers and rotors that are 12X1.25 inches. That setup is quite a bit lighter and nicer than the Toyota setup! It's what I've got front and rear on my car from Mike. It's also not a requirement for good brakes, Mike has reasonable prices on the Toy setup too but boy is it heavier. Two ways to do this BTW - vented rotors or using the stock 240 rotors. I'd go vented if this will be a V8 Z. Hrm, I also don't much approve of slipping one by on the parts counter guys. Sure, you can sucker them but why not just be honest about it?

I used slick 50 on the Mustang engine. When it went in for Turbo install they tore it down to put in rings. Well well, the crank was grooved! I was pretty shocked and mentioned the Slick 50 to th eshop guy, who was a certified Aircraft mechanic and worked mostly on Porsche. His response was why would you put an oil shedder on an oil lubricated part liek a crank?". Umm, duh? They also were curious about the "rat turds" blocking several cooling poassages. Umm, Bar's Stop Leak? Bad, bad, bad. Never again will I attempt to fix a mechanical issue like that with a witch's brew of chemicals. I'll simply bypass the heater core instead I now run Mobil 1 everywhere except the radiator - it gets Water Wetter. Mobil 1 is one of the few synthetics that's actually still 100% synthetic. Not long ago the way synthetic oils were rated was supposedly changed - Castrol and others now have some dino juice in them but NOT Mobil 1 and NOT Red Line ($$). Amsoil is probably okay too but their claims creep me out ala slick 50 I'll break it in with regular oil and switch to synthetic ASAP. Oh, and still change the oil often - it's cheap insurance. Hrm, never tried Royal Purple etc. but 'm betting I'd not see that big a difference so long as it's being changed every 3K or so anyway.

Awhile back someone had mentioned grafting "gills" onto the Z. I happened to run across a pic of a Z with some done rather tastefully IMO so I've linked it here... and a closer look [ August 07, 2001: Message edited by: BLKMGK ]