Villeman

Thanks TimZ, will definitely do that. Today some friendly 180SSS geeks living 5km away came to the rescue (you cannot imagine how rare datsun people are over here). We checked spark, all good swapped plugs to other cylinders compression tested all cylinders --> no problem here checked valve clearance --> tiny bit off on cylinder 4 did a leak down. --> pressure went away very fast on cylinder 4 and cylinder 3 (sadly I now realise we only checked those two) but no bubbling or hissing anywhere..... did we do something wong? The mechanic said it would most likely be okay since there is no noises anywhere at 6 bar pressure

Here is the thing. I am positive I could fix the valve seal here and still drive the car (registration going another month before winter break) but definitely not a ring...thats why I dont want to take the head off here, no chance getting it home then (would you say it could be driven 450km in this condition?). Is there any way to visually inspect the valve seals with the cover off? If I get it right I wont gain much from a simple compression test because there already is oil in the cylinder? Any ways I will get a compression kit asap and then see

Hey everybody, so we did a full engine restauration on my 76 280z and now I did 700km to break in the engine. It started to run rather rough after 450km and when I checked today, Cylinder Nr. 3 plug was all oily (2 and 4 looking perfect) and i could see an oil film on the cylinder (was up at that point). Also, oil pressure shows rather low (nearly 0 when idling hot and 1/3 on 3000rpm) but that could also be the gauge which is still the original one. So, did I mess up the break in? Engine had to sit quite some time after assembly and we put the rings in ourselves. Whats now the sensible way? (I am 500km away from my shop+tools). Could a head retorque work? I would like to try this before going to a shop for a compression test. Any other good way apart from a leakdown to differentiate headgasket from valve stem (somebody mentioned going to 4000rpm in low gear and have somebody watch for smoke when going off the throttle rapidly)? Also, there is a little leak close to cylinder Nr. 4 on the block but not oil..... Also: no overheating, no excessive oil consumption as far as I can tell that now. Oil is clear, not frothy. Did check for bubling in the radiator or hissing after running it 2 min cold. Pistons were new, as well as rings etc etc. thanks in advance

My car is officially done since I start messing with it Will go for the 92´200sx (never had 240sx here) CA18det gearbox swap thanks to our workshop here at work ^^ Managed to find a pristine box for 110$ in other news, I managed to get my fuel tank all rusted out. But for now it will work again.... VID-20180726-WA0000[1].mp4 VID-20180726-WA0000[1].mp4 ope

now that would be a fun LS swap for sure especially since the whells are just welded metal plates, called Pilote Wheels

in other news. My fathers project also finished nearly in the same time. Just leaves the shared project 4wd to be finished

In case somebody wants some chunks translated just let me know ^^ So far is was about an idiotic regulation here in germany where you can only increase power 40% over stock, then you need to supply a stiffness evaluation certificate for the car (above 10k€ ...) and the old SR20 CA18 discussion regarding aftermarket parts etc. I just asked for the 2+2 bumper parts ^^

Hübsch! funk mal durch wenn du die Plastikteile der 280z Stoßstange loswerden willst. Bei mir sind einige gerissen und ich hätte gerne wenigstens die Option die zu nutzen. Apart from that, yes, 2+2 were really popular when the car was new. Nearly 1:1 rartio here of Coupe and 2+2 whereas it was like 1:10 in america iirc. Wheelbase->stability->autobahn

Ah, good to know.... I would go into the areo direction. Any idea who could have dimensions? + 10mm ... Fiberglas? Sounds bulky indeed. Sooo, how would one tackle getting the aero transferred to an 280z

i think so! + I would like to reproduce it, not purchase it. Thats why I would like to see the dimensions thats w

Hey all, i have always wonders about this thing here https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_tGt5V5rGDVNzBNN2RYbVNYRFE/view Item 24. its the racing under guard. Anybody has additional information about that one, or even measurements? Looks like a good idea for german autobahn ^^

Grüße zurück. Ich melde mich wenn die Ausfahrt mal Richtung Ostsee geht

Do you have a center console harness? Its the 30cm long subharness with 2 black plugs on one side

Hey folks, I have (for now) chosen black 240z style bumpers and I am wondering it chrome bumper guards would be a) quite nice looking contrast b) horrible ? so did anybody try this combo?

Hey, does anybody have a spare 75-76 280z center console harness? Its the one with the 3x3 hazard switch plug and the black radio connector. Don´t want to butcher my one since somehow a 77-78 got in there which is in far too good condition to modify. Its the one from the two black plugs (C10 and C11) to the radio, hazard etc. Like this one, only with the 3x3 connector. thanks

Yes, the 3x3 one! Do you also have the small piece of harness running from the 2 black plugs (C10 and C11) to the hazard switch? would buy both switch and cable

hmmmm, i thought thats what the 6-1 header in my garage was for can´t wait to drive it, just need to figure out the turn signal and then I am ready to go ! Would really like to swing by for a beer, just need fitting floaters for my whale

ITS ALIVE first test drive was a success, until the front tire blwe up..... our shop found a piece or their tire-mounting machine inside . The last thing to settle is a center console harness. If anybody can spare a 75-76 model 280z center console harness I would be happy. There is a 77-78 one inside and its far too good condition to butcher it. Looking good thought ! Car is now conserved with fluid film and will recieve a dose of Mike sanders (a fat/wax mix polular over here) to keep it from rotting away.

Hey you all, for some strange reason my 12/75 has a 77 year hazard switch + plug! Spend 2 days cleaning everything only to figue out one has a 3x3 plug the other a 2x4. Only that my harness has a 2x4 plug as well! So I need a new switch+maybe a 3x3 harness side plug cheers Richard

Lets hope my driving skill never makes it look like that again. Still some things to settle, but it started on the first crank after a complete engine +everything else overhaul, so it clearly finally wants to DRIVE !. Brakes, turn indicators, tach. Thats all on my list. Daniel, you really picked a stunningly good car! Million thanks

Nope, the position is pretty much fixed. I will test it once I am home again and then decide what to do.

Still undecided about the Hella 4004 mirror. I an quite tall so i hope to sit far enough in the back for it to not be a problem...

could actually be worse. On other note, that undercarriage looks really good now. I so hope I can visit TÜV in 3 weeks after handing in my PhD thesis. That would really be a nice revard.

Is the wiring harness complete and in good condition? It just being out of the car is not too bad due to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poka-yoke The nice thing is that there are far less hidden surprises on a dismantled car IF!!!! you trust the seller everything is there and in good condition. Things to consider: -can you run a compression check? If so do it! You don´t want to start with rebuilding parts you can´t do on your own -in my opinion, the disassembled car gives you more room to negotiate -post pictures here! Just do it and maybe someone here will spot a dealbreaker, making your decision much easier