Villeman

Just a friendly advice, what are you planning to do? Basic resto or full blown porting/stroker/modding of the engine? Any basic work should be possible everywhere, mine was done by a boat engine specialist to teach new apprentices on an old engine

did you remove the hand crank? Or did the connection between the two pinions break? With spring, do you mean that one? http://woodworkerb.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/WindowCrank2.jpg

Got around to some more work, still stunning good substance, inside of doors are pristine, no rust at all. Had to organise my stuff a bit more... and took off the front axle. Just replacing the bushings, ball joints are firm and steering rack looks good. we decided to still ice-blast everything and do the restauration properly also, single carb manifold for the L28, in case people are discussing that Nissan didn´t make them

Just in case anybody is facing the same problem. I realised my cold start valve was stuck after not being used in 35 years... this is what I did: measured the resistance, was around 5 Ohm. Tried pulsing with a lab power source at 9V (current limited to 0.5A) -> nothing increased current to 1.5A max --> nothing Ultrasonic treatment (Bandelin high power source) immersed in 2-Propanol (Iso) for 5 minutes -> nothing injected ISO straight through the nozzle end into the mechanism (around 80µl) and used US again -> nothing (but might have helped the next step. be VERY careful not to touch the needle. If you have, a small transparent Eppendorf tip works great with a 10µl syringe ) then moved to the lab source and tried braking in free. It cracked open at 16V 1.5A and is now working perfectly at 9V 0.5A it is paramount to only TAP it very shortly above 12V or so, at 16V 1.5A it was producing sparks but broke free at the first tap. DO NOT attatch both wires and increase the voltage, go in 1v increments and tap. A lab source is great, especially if it shows when you max out your current. next step will be syringe-feed carb cleaner while pulsing the valve submersed in more carb cleaner. total work time, around 30 minutes if you cut out the first try. (Its blocked and ISO won´t reach the place its needed to be...)

Sorry for the necroposting, the original one is stiff rubber and quite sturdy if these are still needed, I can send pictures of a dismounted one

guess I will have them made out of metal if thats possible.... Its a bit large for 3D printing I really need that parts car....... well, not need but really really want ^^ paint...done.....and a fourth time assembled (Piston pins set wrongly on 3 pistons........) and as luck has it there was a bend piston ring that we found while fixing it. The inlet manifold found its way to my desk as bad weather project for evenings. Does anybody know wether or not an Ikea desk supports a vice ?