Jump to content
HybridZ

Villeman

Members
  • Content Count

    314
  • Donations

    20.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by Villeman

  1. Long Story short…. I blew up the engine replaced a freeze plug the engine builder missed…. and the replacement was too loose (kind of knew that or at least was afraid of). Testdrives etc were fine and 400km further I had to do a hard pull on the autobahn an tadaaaaa, coolant blew out. Sadly I drove to the next parking lot because I thought it was fire (black smoke coming in immediately) fast forward.. pulled the engine and that thing is tough as nails! 2-3 miles without coolant while already hot and nothing. Rings good, crosshatch good, head good. We pulled the main bearings and they showed wear (they were still original one though). Talk about being lucky! Freezeplug, main bearings and rod bearings will be replaced and hopefully I will be back on the road in 2-3 weeks
  2. Finally I am done. Had some issues with suspension and injectors. Now it is doooone! (This time for real^^ )
  3. +1 but come back if you want to turbo it
  4. yes, but once they break containment..... and if there is oil and not air surrounding the broken seal. They were okay when I got them and a year later you cant move them one inch. Still, yes, success!
  5. I would maybe remove everything thats not needed just in case. Aren´t people suggesting ATF and a 1-2 day soak for this? Make sure you are not mangling up the chain in case it dropped down in a bad position (you did remove the wedge for chain Immobilisation, right ? ) then just try to work it in both directions, more of a rattling, trying to break the rings loose (an idea: If he puts the head on and uses a drill to prime the oil pump, would that bring oil back to the crank? )
  6. So, a quick update: Apparently all shocks seized completely. Since seizing for air shocks is unknown to me, I assume the Oil in the strut casing did this (filled to the top) so thats definitely something to know! Thanks everybody for the help. New shocks are in and rides like a charm
  7. 280z 2+2 and I think for the front suspension there should be no difference
  8. So, KYB delivered to Germany in 2 Days (Rockauto+Fedex) Just thinking, how can I check whether I have mixed up the springs? 76 280z 2+2 …...just want to be SURE this time !
  9. Yes, they are old stock... guess I will order KYB for peace of mind thanks everybody!
  10. Well, drove the car quite a bit. At this point i am unsure about the source of the problems, true. Thing is, one side can be pushed in when i lean on the fender like I would expect, and I would be fine if it were just stiff. But changing stiffness with repeated compression is strange. True on the gas shocks not knowing their surrounding. I stil assume that filling in oil (mistake, instructions read later stated: NEVER FILL THE OUTER CASING WITH OIL). Just wanting to be sure since I would have to order shocks from the states or potentially block our lift for a month.
  11. Hey, no, I drove it like that for some time (don´t ask...around 700 miles). The Gabriels were available but I think I will go KYB ones for now.
  12. Hey guys, sooooo… if have a problem with my suspension. I swapped to a full poly setup and first mistake, we didnt loosen and retighten the bolts once the chassis was in neutral position but we fixed that. BUT: I was so smart to put Gabriel shocks in AND THEN add oil. I now have the funny problem that pushing the fender down once works fine, twice becomes harder and 3 times makes the suspension hard as a brick. My question is, can I just remove the oil or did I kill the shocks already ? (in that case I would need to order replacements before dismanteling them) Thanks, Richard
  13. The code should be on a paper sticker in the glovebox. I know an adress in the netherlands that cuts perfect keys based on that number but I guess thats not really feasible for you guys. IIRC the code on the key is useless for this ^^ . He is also skilled enough to get the code from a key picture. You could ask nicely maybe. He found out that my key was not actually for my car since its profile didn´t match the paper-glovebox sticker and now all locks work a LOT better. PM for adress
  14. Just to be able to blame back. Check the oil flow on each lobe before use ^^
  15. I just multimetered them. Plug/wiring seems good. I guess its either blocked or getting tired. (3 are acutally still the original ones). Anybody has 3 spares? ^^
  16. soooo.....I am basically an idiot.... the long version, looks like one injector seized or got blocked. I can still hear it firing with a screwdriver, but less defined, and when I pull the plug nothing changes as opposed to all other cylinders. Can I swap over the plug from cylinder 3? They should all fire at the same time, right? Just to rule out the cable..
  17. Thanks TimZ, will definitely do that. Today some friendly 180SSS geeks living 5km away came to the rescue (you cannot imagine how rare datsun people are over here). We checked spark, all good swapped plugs to other cylinders compression tested all cylinders --> no problem here checked valve clearance --> tiny bit off on cylinder 4 did a leak down. --> pressure went away very fast on cylinder 4 and cylinder 3 (sadly I now realise we only checked those two) but no bubbling or hissing anywhere..... did we do something wong? The mechanic said it would most likely be okay since there is no noises anywhere at 6 bar pressure
  18. Here is the thing. I am positive I could fix the valve seal here and still drive the car (registration going another month before winter break) but definitely not a ring...thats why I dont want to take the head off here, no chance getting it home then (would you say it could be driven 450km in this condition?). Is there any way to visually inspect the valve seals with the cover off? If I get it right I wont gain much from a simple compression test because there already is oil in the cylinder? Any ways I will get a compression kit asap and then see
  19. Hey everybody, so we did a full engine restauration on my 76 280z and now I did 700km to break in the engine. It started to run rather rough after 450km and when I checked today, Cylinder Nr. 3 plug was all oily (2 and 4 looking perfect) and i could see an oil film on the cylinder (was up at that point). Also, oil pressure shows rather low (nearly 0 when idling hot and 1/3 on 3000rpm) but that could also be the gauge which is still the original one. So, did I mess up the break in? Engine had to sit quite some time after assembly and we put the rings in ourselves. Whats now the sensible way? (I am 500km away from my shop+tools). Could a head retorque work? I would like to try this before going to a shop for a compression test. Any other good way apart from a leakdown to differentiate headgasket from valve stem (somebody mentioned going to 4000rpm in low gear and have somebody watch for smoke when going off the throttle rapidly)? Also, there is a little leak close to cylinder Nr. 4 on the block but not oil..... Also: no overheating, no excessive oil consumption as far as I can tell that now. Oil is clear, not frothy. Did check for bubling in the radiator or hissing after running it 2 min cold. Pistons were new, as well as rings etc etc. thanks in advance
  20. My car is officially done since I start messing with it Will go for the 92´200sx (never had 240sx here) CA18det gearbox swap thanks to our workshop here at work ^^ Managed to find a pristine box for 110$ in other news, I managed to get my fuel tank all rusted out. But for now it will work again.... VID-20180726-WA0000[1].mp4 VID-20180726-WA0000[1].mp4 ope
  21. now that would be a fun LS swap for sure especially since the whells are just welded metal plates, called Pilote Wheels
  22. in other news. My fathers project also finished nearly in the same time. Just leaves the shared project 4wd to be finished
  23. In case somebody wants some chunks translated just let me know ^^ So far is was about an idiotic regulation here in germany where you can only increase power 40% over stock, then you need to supply a stiffness evaluation certificate for the car (above 10k€ ...) and the old SR20 CA18 discussion regarding aftermarket parts etc. I just asked for the 2+2 bumper parts ^^
  24. Hübsch! funk mal durch wenn du die Plastikteile der 280z Stoßstange loswerden willst. Bei mir sind einige gerissen und ich hätte gerne wenigstens die Option die zu nutzen. Apart from that, yes, 2+2 were really popular when the car was new. Nearly 1:1 rartio here of Coupe and 2+2 whereas it was like 1:10 in america iirc. Wheelbase->stability->autobahn
  25. Ah, good to know.... I would go into the areo direction. Any idea who could have dimensions? + 10mm ... Fiberglas? Sounds bulky indeed. Sooo, how would one tackle getting the aero transferred to an 280z
×
×
  • Create New...