proxlamus©
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Posts posted by proxlamus©
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I purchased those iron cross wheels from a buddy on ClassicZcars.com
He spend ALOT of time on those babies
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awsome Tim!
now.. being a 280z owner.. I used to like the bumpers when they were on the car.. but when I removed em I fell in love with the no bumper or 240z bumper look.
why are yours still on?
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do the 200sx calipers have a adjustable or removable e-brake arm?!
Mine have fixed arms and hit my brakes lines and severed them in half
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LoL thanks Mike..
It's just a major pain to maintain.. takes all my free time and spare cash.. LoL
Thank you for your opinions guys! I really appreciate it!
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bumpidty bump for what?! LoL
I'm definatly running 15x8's all around and 205's up front.. no crazy stretching
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Look back on the results thread.. the rear diffuser and underbody enhancements were considered a waste of time, when there is so much to modify on the body of the car.
As Mike emphasized time and time again, the total package and combination of aerodynamic mods were the key to improving the Z's aerodynamics.
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Well I have one more year of college left then off to the real world.. LoL
Having my Z as a daily driver sucks to be quite honest.. too hard to keep up with between school and work...
however I will keep the Z and prep it for track use only.. but untill then... I am looking for a nice daily driver..
What dependable daily driver would be good for hauling stuff around and can tow the Z (on a trailer) that is under $8,000 and gets good MPG?!
I know tough decision... I was thinking of a Subaru Forester, Nissan Xterra or some small truck. Can anyone share their experience with a small SUV or truck that is affordable to maintain and can haul a Z around?
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wow sweet man!! you rock!
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Scott,
this is very interesting that your using an SAFC on the VG30ET..
I attempted to use one on my L28 and had terrible failure.
Search around the Honda and DSM forums about the SAFC as they have plenty of walk throughs..
Make sure the voltage for the MAF matches the SAFC's allowable inputs.. one reason my AFM didnt work with the SAFC. Maybe the VG's MAF (versus AFM) will work out
Why dont you mod the Z31 ECU?! seems a bit cheaper and easier to do!
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Hahaha..
I dont know if you guys have had a girl in the passenger seat and had them ask where the door handle was and couldn't figure it out..
but this video describes it perfectly.. hahaha
NOT SAFE FOR WORK
1978 tool shed = my z since im always fixn the thing on the road
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I am going to test some things to see if my engine is smoking or if its the turbo.
I was going to un-bolt the 4 bolts holding the turbo onto the manifold and rotate the turbine housing down and run an open manifold. This way I wont have to remove the turbo and block up the oil lines.
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600 hp!
holy freakn crap!
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Tim I checked the PCV valve...
it is flowing propely.. opens during vacuum closes during boost.
with the car idling I can tell the block is under vacuum, as when I pull my oil dipstick you can hear the baby hissing... so that's a good thing.
I think I will try pulling the turbo off and driving it around for 10 minutes or so.. if the car smokes its the engine. If it doesnt smoke I know its the turbo.
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I love my Greddy type RS
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Well I am running the STOCK oil lines..
I noticed almost everyone on this board has ran stainless braided lines...
hurmm
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What do you guys think of an engine driven or electric vacuum pump!?
Alot of the big drag cars, with a low idle vacuum use these to decrease blow by?!
Airplanes use vacuum pumps as well. Maybe I can grab a Volvo or SAAB "cruise" vacuum pump and maybe generate 18" in. hg. and see if it'll fix anything.
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Ok i'm reading the Holset HY35W service manual.
Oil leaking from the turbine housing indicates the following :
*Restrictive turbocharger oil drain line
(remove restriction or replace damaged parts)
*Restrictive engine crankcase breather
(refer to engine manufactors manual, clear restriction
*Turbocharger bearing housing sludged or coked
(change engine oil and oil filter, overhaul or replace turbocharger)
*Worn engine pistons rings or liners
(refer to engine manyfactureres manual and repair as required)
*Burnt valves and/or pistons
(refer to engine manyfactureres manual and repair as required)
*Excessive dirt build up on compressor wheel and/or diffuser vanes
(clean in accordance with details in appropriate Holset publication
*Turbocharger damaged
(find anc correct cause of failure, repair or replace turbo as necessary)
Could the turbo be coked?! well thats a possibility...
Worn engine rings/pistons rings?! Well no because all of my cylinders read the same compression and my plugs are not fouled.
Bad valves or valve seals?! If oil was leaking through the valve seals or valves, the smoke would occur on start up.. NOT after 5 min and the exhuast is nice and toasty. Plus my plugs would be fouled with oil correct?!
Turbo is clean clean clean.. so I have no effn idea
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well the turbine bearing is METAL so unless there is tons of shaft play, there should be no reason to smoke.
I could have blown the rubber o-ring.. but damn.. i dunno
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Ok.. I added an oil restrictor.. no change
I added a large PCV setup.. no change
spark plugs are clean, compression numbers are fine across the board.
Minimal shaft play..
What the hell is going on??!
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Than you 510six..
on the 2 fittings, do I hook one up to the intake manifold?!
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Chris you have to remove the wastegate housing on the T3, then attach the downpipe.
Should go Turbo, wastegate housing, downpipe on the 280zx setup.
with the 300zx downpipe the order is Turbo, downpipe.
The 300zx downpipe has the wastegate housing and downpipe built into one.
Im not ripping ya off Chris =) it fits trust me
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OMG this is insane.
maybe he is makn a mold and casting them?!
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I think they means SDS, Haltech, Wolf 3D etc on Z cars
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damn! still smokes..
must be an engine problem. I guess I should pull the turbo and see if the engine smokes then without the turbo
Mounted my Sport Max 002 wheels and 225's on.. mmm
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
i sold em on ebay for around $500 a few months ago