proxlamus©
-
Posts
2145 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by proxlamus©
-
-
well... maybe a compression test...
metal or paper head gasket? this will make a difference.
do you know the cam specs?!
anyway.. a shaved head, will increase the Compression Ratio. So depending on the pistons, and cylinder head (p90, n47 etc) this will all vary.
tell us some specs
-
Roll bar's and half cages are awsome
FULL cages with roof bars and a halo would be very dangerous on the street car unless you had lots of padding.. ask 240hoke about his head bump during his accident a few years ago, and this was without a cage.
A roll bar will help in the evnt of a roll over obviously and a side collision if at the right part of the car.
4 point belts and seats to keep you IN and not sliding around would be beneficial.
-
you sold the arcade machines?! and the KIDS! LoL
those machines were awsome Brian!
-
aim : yinsaneasylum
name : Ryan
-
Ill be finding out tomarrow, its too dark out tonight to drive it around and look for smoke.
But im willing to bet it will fix the problem. Alot of DSM and Honda tech forums have alot of info on using a restrictor with the Holset turbos. So I think this is the best route.
-
My conversion consisted of:
- 280zx (1982) 10.25" rotors (don't use the 84 300zx 11.4" rotors unless you have the modern-motorsports or custom adapter) ($45)
- Nissan 200sx calipers (similar to 240sx or 2nd generation Maxima calipers) (FREE)
- Modified Nissan Maxima rear adapters. (4 bolt design, but I cut off the corner and 4th bolt hole to allow easy access so I dont have to remove the stub axle) ($80)
- Total - ($125) =)
First Here is a picture of the Z's rear drum brakes on my 1978 280z. Pretty aint it?
After tapping on the rear with a rubber mallet, the front drum cover pops right off and behold the glory if dirty drum brakes.
Take a sawzaw or a 4" cut off disc and cut away on the rear backing plate for the drums. Major PIA, and you have to cut it in 2 diff places, or the plate will not come off. Yes, your sawzaw or cut off disc will not get to the bottom, so I tried to cut down the the bolt holes, and I used a BIG pair of pliars and wiggled it around for a while untill the metal became fatigued enough to break. (You dont have to do this if you remove the stub axle which is a major PIA)
Yay it came off.. (2 hrs later SOB)
This is my caliper choice. I got them from a friend for free, I later found out the are from a 200sx. (very very similar to the 240sx and 2nd generation Maxima calipers) I LOVE these because I was able to use the STOCK rubber lines! score!
NOW one important note which isnt found typically on write-ups. "L" normally means "drivers side" and "R" means passenger side. Well on a Z with a different geometry due to the bracket, you must SWITCH the sides around. I know annoying huh?! Trust me I found out the right way
Now my e-brake arm was fixed on the cast caliper. The 240sx caliper allows some adjustment and is removable, but the arm will be VERY close to the rear sway bars, but won't rub. I am using 1" thick MSA sway bars as an upgrade it it's a little tighter fit.
More pictures, and a peak at using the STOCK e-brake setup, and a handy dandy bolt to holt it together. Yes it works.
Now remember.. bleeder nipple is at its highest point. This is so the air can be bled out of the system!!
Pretty huh?!
I bled the crap out of the system, i was unfortunate and got alot of the air in the system as alot of my threads can attest to. I am not using a different proportioning valve, but it has a very nice balance. I'm happy. But don't give up!
I should prob take pics of the wheels and the rear brakes since it looks so damn good. LoL. Anyway.. questions?!
-
Well.. I have been having really bad problems with my Holset HY35W blowing oil out of the turbine oil seal..
First I checked my crankcase pressure and there was so much pressure, the oil was not draining out of the turbo, so it backed up and went out into the turbo. Typical signs include burning blue smoke once the car is warmed up and the exhuast is burning the oil. FIRST thing to check is the PCV setup. I added one with some good results, just not perfect.
Rather than spending $15 from ATPturbo or another company and finding the right thread pitch and length and size of the oil inlet, I said screw it and fab up my own.
I used the stock banjo bolt that came on the 280ZX turbo's and I am still using the stock oil lines. (12mmx1.5 pitch BTW in BNPT (yes british))
I went ahead and cleaned, wire brushed and de-greased the banjo bolt. I then welded up the opening.
I took a 1/16 (.060) drill bit and drilled through the weld. Tada, my own oil inlet restrictor. I can increase or decrease the size if I choose. (yeh it looks ugly but hell it works)
Now I called Garret and they recommended an inlet size of .035 for their ball bearing turbos. ATPturbo sells a inlet restrictor of .060. Depending on the turbo the size of the inlet will differ. Remember too small, you'll run the turbo dry on oil and damage the seal from oil starvation. Too big you'll blow the seals out from excess pressure. DO YOUR HOMEWORK!
-
anyone using a restrictor on a Holset turbo?!
im having some weird problems with oil blowing out of the seal, I tried a new PCV setup without much luck.
Im still running stock lines, I kinda want to just "bend" it and reduce the flow. But that would be the wrong way to do it lol
-
FIXED it!!
I bled all four corners then the master.
All four corners then the master
All four corners then the master, then A BUBBLE came out of the Master front!
there was a bubble stuck inline somewhere in the system and even after pumping and pumping and pumping the open M/C with a hose and seeing no air bubbles, going around all four corners several times and back to the master worked.
How frustrating. Anyway...
THANK YOU SO MUCH GUYS!
its not perfect yet, but itll give me enough time to buy a proportioning valve and re-bleed the system.
Having a Z as a daily driver SUCKS! especially if its your ONLY car!
-
yeh sorry about the confusion..
I took a pic of how the setup was, then decided to try swapping the "L" caliper to the right side of the car, where the nipple was ontop. So yes it was the same caliper, and 2 diff pics.
The last post I made with 4 pictures (post #6) is accurate on how its setup right now.
is that correct how its setup now?!
-
Ok I switched everything around, added the e-brake.
now my pedal pressure is WORSE than it was before. I bought a mity-vac and have ran around all 4 corners of the car AGAIN.
nothing.
Does this look right to you guys now??!
Drivers Side
Passenger side
-
hmm.. I think I have a 200sx caliper
-
Ok.. Im freakn out. LoL
I purchased some Maxima brackets, and 280zx (1983) rotors (10.25") and some random calipers from a friend.
They look to be Maxima calipers, but I need some help identifying them.
I installed them like the following ... and had a soft pedal and some air in the system. In addition, the arm for the e-brake attachment hits the brake line bracket on the car! and bent it upward!
SOO I figured.. maybe I will put the caliper marked LEFT which I had placed on the drivers side to the passenger side. This is fine, but now the arm looks like it will hit the sway bar! and the hose is ABOVE the bleed line, which doesnt seem right at all.
Which way is the right way?! I'm going crazy!
-
lol with the car titled back, its increasing the angle of attack on those pallets.
im shocked not enough lift was generated to make those bad boys fly away
-
I called Garret (yeh i have a holset but anyway)
they recommended I get an oil restrictor.. maybe down to like .120 or .080
-
I just finished bleeding the master, I bled one "reservoir" at a time, slowly.
the pedal did get a bit firmer, but still slides to the ground.
if I pump it quickly, I get a firm pedal, if I push slowly it goes to the ground and is soft.
I attached a hose to the MC bleeder, ran the tube into the reservoir and made sure it was submurged under the fluid and I pumped slowly about 10-15 times about.
After bleeding the MC should I then go back to all four corners?!
-
Well I pulled the plugs, no oil on the plugs.. so i'm not burning oil in the cylinders.
as for the turbo, the compressor housing and intake piping is clean with no oil residue.
the turbine housing is coated in oil.
I checked the drain line, I installed the PCV which is workn, as I can hear it hissing when I pull the oil dipstick.
Oil smokes at idle, and on deceleration. pretty blue smoke, and only when warmed up.
anything else i can try?
-
I have not. thats a very good idea.
Why would I be able to squirt fluid out of the calipers with no air bubbles, but air trapped in the master cylinder?!
-
i bought an INLINE PCV valve today and used a plugged port.
car still smokes. this sucks
-
Ugh..
everything that can go wrong does
I changed over to rear discs today, and my car is a piece of crap.
"L" went to the drivers side. "R" went to the pass side
240sx calipers
280zx (83) rotors
Maxima brackets
everything is sealed, and there are no leaks.
the bleeder is above the brake line
I have gone through half a bottle of fluid now. Process is rear right (pass) rear left (drivers) front right (pass) front left (driver). I have done this process about 5 times all the way around. Bleeding each about 5-6 times. No bubbles no air. The pedal has some pressure but it goes to the floor.
I am not using a proportioning valve for now. My drums were grinding and I needed to quick fix. I understand that I wont have clamping force on the rear, but does this explain my lack of pressure?
cant get any pressure. help
-
Well,
I have owned 2 Z motors now, a N42 block and a F54 block.
I have been having major issues with smoking pouring out of the exhuast and I am burning oil.
When running an N42 intake manifold, and a turbocharger unfortunatly I am unable to used my PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve on the bottom of the intake manifold. This uses the intake to create a vacuum in the crankcase of the engine and create a good seal between the rings and also pull oil from the turbo.
Alot of Z guys just run the crankcase breather tube and valve cover breather OPEN or with a filter. One problem is engine breaths.. literally.. and all the blow by and crap in the crankcase goes OUT. this clogs the filter which increases positive pressure. continue reading why this is bad.
Positive pressure is bad. why? When the crankcase is pressurized, there is so much pressure, the oil trying to drain out of the turbocharger can't fall into the oil pan. It has no where to go but back up and OUT! This overloads the oil seal, and the oil seeps into the exhuast and turbine blades.
The heat from the turbo and hot exhuast causes the oil to smoke and burn, resulting in a cloud of smoke.
Typical signs of this include - NO smoke on start up. Lots of smoke once the exhaust warms up. Oil in the turbine housing and the exhuast. BLUE smoke. Clean spark plugs. Clean intake piping.
Has anyone else experienced this? or am I the lucky one to get it twice in a row on two seperate motors.
-
I drew this picture a year ago after I took an aerodynamics course.
How did my guestimation come out?
-
I ran a compression test on my motor (F54/P90 stock dished pistons) and a fel-pro headgasket and I yeilded 135psi across the board.
Keep in mind I am at 5,700 feet so the numbers will read lower. I installed a 2mm headgasket and new cam, did another compression test and I get 100psi across the board?!
WTF! the bolts are torqued to spec, copper spray on the headgasket, wtf.
The test was done while the motor was HOT, dry, every plug removed, full open throttle, each cylinder tested for 6 seconds.
After doing a WET test I have 110psi across the board.
-
how far were the VG's placed on the roof line from the top of the rear window seal?
ohh new forum!
in Other EMS
Posted
I just wanted to the first to be on this part of the forum!