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proxlamus©

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Posts posted by proxlamus©

    Clutch Review - ACT Stage II heavy duty pressure plate and Organic street clut

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    ahh good theories..

     

    I just assumed maybe the metal fingers were breaking in.. as I could not source down what in the world was wrong with my setup.

     

    I am running a stainless steel clutch line, so I hope there is no ballooning...

     

     

    as for the chatter, I have not had ANY chatter after the intial 1,000 mile break in or so .. but the directions indicated chatter is common on initial break in.

     

    I checked the fork when I pulled the engine out 2 months ago, no cracks, or bends. I remember reading all the threads about ACT clutchs and seeing a pic of the fork BENT! jeesh! so I checked it out.. no probs

     

    Weird thing was I ran a NEW master cylinder and a NEW 11/16 slave cylinder at the same time, and still had issues.. no air bubbles or anything...

     

    thats when I gave up, returned the master and bought a 3/4 and life was good.

    Clutch Review - ACT Stage II heavy duty pressure plate and Organic street clut

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    I figured I would write a quick review for those interested in upgrading their clutch on their Z ..

     

    Now by all means, I am a terrible terrible writer, so bear with me..

     

    First off I started worrying about the clutch once I upgraded my N/A engine, and bolted on a turbo and some beefy injectors. I noticed heavy slippage around 10psi and it just got worse over time, so I knew I had to upgrade. Running the stock OEM clutch on a 225mm was not fun.

     

    I found a cheap 240mm flywheel, and chose to get one of the best...

    an ACT Stage II heavy duty pressure plate rated to handle 500ft/lb and a ACT organic street clutch. I chose the sprung organic street clutch because I drive nearly 40 miles a day in my Z so I needed something driveable.

     

    The swap went rather pleasant, I noticed EXEDY was stamped on the pressure plate and clutch disc, but I guess ACT installs firmer springs in the units or something.

     

    Upon startup the clutch was much stiffer than stock but nothing too bad... this clutch chatters ALOT especially with this heavy duty pressure plate. After about 600 miles of break in I could actually see how this clutch engaged..

     

    this clutch performs like a performance clutch should (especially for $450) and made very very firm engagements.. took time to get use to slipping the clutch a little.

     

    After 3,000 miles I noticed the clutch was VERY hard to shift into 1st at a stop, and engaging in reverse was hell. Why is this? Well the metal fingers on the pressure plate began to break in, and I needed a longer pedal throw to full disengage the clutch.

     

    I chose to upgrade to a Nissan Pathfinder 1988, 11/16 slave cylinder, as this unit is much smaller than the stock slave cylinder. Having a smaller cylinder will give you a much longer throw. Only downside is a firmer pedal.

    Installed it in 15 minutes and everything was great! and for $16 ? you can't beat that!

     

    Now the clutch has 6,000 miles, and I am having shifting problems, and I can not shift into 1st or reverse at a dead stop. Infact I had to rev to 3,500 RPM for the clutch to slip enough to go into gear... can the pressure plate be completly broken in now?? jeesh I hope.. this sucks..

     

    Soo i bought a new OEM master cylinder, thinking I had a leak or something, no luck. I decided to upgrade to a 3/4" Tilton universal master cylinder from the old 5/8" stock unit. Why? Having a larger diameter master cylinder displaces more fluid, which on the slave end, gives you a longer throw. Advantages were less pedal pressure, and more pedal throw.

     

    Everything was perfect after the 3/4" Master Cylinder, however because I still had the 11/16" slave, the pedal pressure was.. well.. extremely stiff.. my girlfriend couldnt even disengage the clutch .. haha..

     

    My recommendation is upgrade to the 3/4" Master cylinder, and keep the STOCK slave cylinder.. and be DONE WITH IT... the master cylinder was $79 and I needed a flared fitting which was $17.

     

    I've spoken with alot of guys who are running ACT clutches and other performance units, but they have not had any problems, partially because they have not put on as much miles as I have, and mine is definatly broken in.

     

    330795_283_full.jpg

    330795_286_full.jpg

     

    (notice the coat hanger on 2 bolts to hold the flywheel still as I tightend the bolts)

     

    330795_288_full.jpg

    330795_290_full.jpg

    11216255643.jpg

     

     

    Good luck!

    1 hr MS installation? It's possible...

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    yeh I swapped to a F54/P90a ... the old motor was smoking really bad.. rather than rebuilding it or finding what the problem was I got a deal on a complete turbo motor..

     

    plus with the Holset .. 18psi on the n/a motor scares me.. lol soo I figured lower compression would be great

    Welp.. all done.. sort of.. motor swap.. VIDEO and pics

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    my dad hates my car.. which is why he wouldnt let me do it in the garage..

     

    he tells me everyday to sell the rusty piece of **** .. or he will light it up in flames..

     

     

    my mom hates the car.. she thinks its too fast for a 20 year old...

     

     

    i dont care.. its the Z I love.. i even sacrafice a ticket doin an engine swap in the street.. mailman approved it.. haha

    What is it about those exotic engines?

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Horizontally opposed engines sound distinct because of alternate firing..

     

    In a two-cylinder, horizontally opposed engine, the pistons are timed so that one fires on one revolution of the crankshaft and the other fires on the next revolution -- so one of the two pistons fires on every revolution of the crankshaft. This seems logical and gives the engine a balanced feeling. To create this type of engine, the crankshaft has two separate pins for the connecting rods from the pistons. The pins are 180 degrees apart from one another.

     

    this diagram is similar to the subaru firing.. this diagram is a V6 though.. but you get the idea

    ET-X-Odd6.gif

     

    this diagram is for a even fire motor like a Honda.. NOT a subaruso in a 4 cylinder... one pistons fires for every 180 degrees of rotation.. like your Honda Civic or a Acura Integra etc etc....

    ET-X-4Cyl.gif

     

    Subaru's have ODD firing.. which gives it the rumble.. similar to a Harley Davidson

     

    http://www.epi-eng.com/ET-PistonExcit.htm this page has LOTS of info reguaring engine pulses and even firing or odd firing

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