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proxlamus©
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Posts posted by proxlamus©
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whew.. good thing i have a urethane
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Phil.. do it right.. and do it right the first time..
go with Austin's kit.. you will NOT be disappointed..
or go with a NPR
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i'd love to take em off.. but the screws are kinda *cough* stripped. .LoL so I gotta whip out the dremel.. ill take em off to see how it looks
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is that J Taylor as in J_Taylor on here??!
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that bitch is loud man!! damn!
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yeh Izuzu NPR intercooler
headlight covers broke.. some kid decided to kick one and break it
the louvers i use because i dont wanna ruin my carpet.. since it sleeps outside all day
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Moby's setup is great..
just very very rich.. so be prepared for sooty plugs and poor MPG =)
other than that.. Im still running his setup.. just with some VE tuning
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I have one of Alex's hood..
superb .. great fit
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that looks really really good man!
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=)I got bored today, and decided to make a PCV evacuation system... similar to the stock setupI didn't want to drill and tap a hole in the intake manifold, so I did it the easy, cheap and effective way..
With the turbo, and N42 intake manifold, the PCV valve hits the turbo outlet, so I had to plug it up with a large bolt..
soo I put a filter on the end of the crank tube...
since the oil and gas blow by blows OUT of the crankcase/block the filter would become clogged, and when this happened, strange things would occur..
the clogged blow by, caused sooo much high pressure build up in the crankcase/block, the turbocharger oil drain would not even drain the oil, because the high pressure was keeping the oil in the line. This would result in the oil to leak out of the turbo seals, and drip into the exhuast, which would smoke really really really bad.
I then ran it open with no filter or anything, but I feared on a dirty or wet condition, water would enter the crankcase and contaminate the oil.
SOO.. I attached clear hose from Home Depot to the crankcase PCV outlet, and put the open end behind the brake master cylinder and brake heat shield so no dirt would enter it
Well.. with the PCV and nasty blowby gases pointed at the firewall, and the old rubber grommets I had, when I rolled the window down the high pressure in the engine bay would flow into the cockpit/cabin and create a vacuum.. ****, now I am smelling all this nasty *** blow by...
I decided to buy the largest PCV valve I could at Checker Auto Parts, and attached a 3/8" hose to the intake manifold... obviously since it's smoothed and cleaned up, I TEE'd off the blow off valve vacuum source, and voila!!
Magic! I noticed the engine seems to run a weeee bit smoother, and the RPMS are steadier... (the vacuum creates a better seal between the pistons rings and crankcase)
here are the pics
Notice the tube from under the intake manifold to the crankcase hole, and the shiney silver filter?? well that didnt work
well NOW here is my ghetto setup
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I got bored today, and decided to make a PCV evacuation system... similar to the stock setup
I didn't want to drill and tap a hole in the intake manifold, so I did it the easy, cheap and effective way..
With the turbo, and N42 intake manifold, the PCV valve hits the turbo outlet, so I had to plug it up with a large bolt..
soo I put a filter on the end of the crank tube...
since the oil and gas blow by blows OUT of the crankcase/block the filter would become clogged, and when this happened, strange things would occur..
the clogged blow by, caused sooo much high pressure build up in the crankcase/block, the turbocharger oil drain would not even drain the oil, because the high pressure was keeping the oil in the line. This would result in the oil to leak out of the turbo seals, and drip into the exhuast, which would smoke really really really bad.
I then ran it open with no filter or anything, but I feared on a dirty or wet condition, water would enter the crankcase and contaminate the oil.
SOO.. I attached clear hose from Home Depot to the crankcase PCV outlet, and put the open end behind the brake master cylinder and brake heat shield so no dirt would enter it
Well.. with the PCV and nasty blowby gases pointed at the firewall, and the old rubber grommets I had, when I rolled the window down the high pressure in the engine bay would flow into the cockpit/cabin and create a vacuum.. ****, now I am smelling all this nasty *** blow by...
I decided to buy the largest PCV valve I could at Checker Auto Parts, and attached a 3/8" hose to the intake manifold... obviously since it's smoothed and cleaned up, I TEE'd off the blow off valve vacuum source, and voila!!
Magic! I noticed the engine seems to run a weeee bit smoother, and the RPMS are steadier... (the vacuum creates a better seal between the pistons rings and crankcase)
here are the pics
Notice the tube from under the intake manifold to the crankcase hole, and the shiney silver filter?? well that didnt work
well NOW here is my ghetto setup
=)
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now wet sand and buff the crap out of those hoods!
the paint looks like it was applied evenly.. no to get rid of that orange peel looking finish from the roller..
with lots of sanding it will have a uniform shine
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finally installed my Apexi N1 muffler .. thanks to s30force...
anyway.. here's some before and after vids
BEFORE
http://media.putfile.com/My-Z-video
http://media.putfile.com/MOV00657small
AFTER
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Ted you kick ***...
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hmmm very interestn...
I haven't done a search yet...
but is there a thread or a site which has a greta write up on how to weld up a differential??
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looka great!!
BTW.. the front bumper shocks have 2 bolts each... they can be pulled out in less than 10 minutes and will look great
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Replaced the clock with a 2 5/8 boost guage
didnt modify the air vent at all.. just used the factory bracket from innovate and unscrewed the air vent pull screw.. slipped the bracket on.. and put the screw back on..
works
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DAMN!!!
way to go man!
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just use a wideband.. and a voltmeter..
set the LC-1 for 0v=10AFR 5v=20AFR
so 1.15 volts = 11.5 AFR etc
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haha thats bad ***
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umm..
its not the coolant that is causing detonation
yes the effectivness of the coolant reduces the chances of detonation.. but the key to preventing detonation is proper air/fuel ratio and timing..
you can have pre-ignition of there is a hot spot ... or detonate with a poor mixture or high cylinder temps..
an F54 block has better webbing for improved cooling.. buy an aluminum or 4 core radiator.. and a good electric fan and you wont have to worry about anything
the Nissan engineer's have it the way it is for a reason..
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um... wouldnt you have to reverse the water pump??
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This is my solution
Installed LC-1 on friends truck today
in MegaSquirt
Posted
470 ohm resistor?
i hope i dont need to use that on my LC-1 or im in trouble.. lol
sorry i couldnt come up man.. im down to 100psi in cylinder 6 .. soo now its almost not driveable