Jump to content
HybridZ

proxlamus©

Members
  • Posts

    2145
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by proxlamus©

  1. there have been issues with USB to serial cables..

     

    actually MegaSquirt states it directly in their website

     

    You need Windows 95/98/ME/XP and a conventional serial port to communicate with MegaSquirt. USB will NOT work directly, however some people have reported that they have been successful using a USB-serial adapter. You do not need a fast computer to tune MegaSquirt, just about any computer that is capable of booting Windows 95 (or better) will be fast enough, but get the fastest machine you think is reasonably priced.

  2. well.. my parents have been tryn to force me to sell the car. but I'm not giving in..

     

    but I guess a daily driver for a 19 year old college kid.. in a car that breaks down EVERY week.. ranging from electrical gremlins.. to a blown up radiator on the way to finals (which I barely barely made) and MASSIVE starting issues every morning when it's cold it's not ideal

     

    I'm tryn to buy a 2nd car a Mazda Miata for a Daily Driver.. har har..

     

    but sometimes.. it's impractical

  3. Well the rear brakes i didn't touch...

     

    I took the car to a shop and they gave me an estimate of $600.. ha..

     

    they said the fronts were gone.. but the rears were in spec.. so I figured I had some time before they pooped out...

     

    All I did when I did the brakes, was install new front rotors, wheel bearings, and pads.... and Ive gone though maybe a quart of fluid by now.. flushing it over and over.

     

     

    would adjusting the drums affect it? even though they havent really been touched?

     

    the pads do not vibrate or squeel or anything.. and no rubbing..

     

    very little pressure, and I mean little.. still results in a firm pedal.. very firm.. at a stand still :( once i start moving..it goes down

  4. LoL..

     

     

    I work at Home Depot and I have never seen this guage..

     

    Plumbing Aisle 28 ?!

     

    Ok let's see here

    153050_3.jpg

     

    Ez-Flo

    100 PSI Water Pressure Test Gauge

     

    Model 45171

    Price: $4.49/ea

     

    Water pressure test gauge. Steel case, shatter resistant lens, 1/4 in. male iron pipe brass fitting connection with 2 in. faceplate. Up to 100 PSI.

     

     

     

    And there is also a 300psi guage!

     

     

    Ez-Flo

    300 PSI Water Pressure Test Gauge

     

    Model 45169

    Price: $7.96/ea

     

     

    Water pressure test gauge. Steel case, shatter resistant lens, 3/4 in. female hose thread brass hose connection with 2-1/2 in. faceplate. 0 to 300 PSI.

  5. Ok..

     

    a few weeks ago i did my front brakes for the first time.. However, I have bled the brakes and clutch numerous times so I shouldn' t of been a problem..

     

    well after the new pads and rotors, and bleeding the system, I have had some "squishiness"..

     

    I went out and bought a vacuum pump hoping it fix the situation.. but here is what I am dealing with :

     

    - I jump in the car, start her up and drive to the stop sign about 20 feet away, firm pedal, hard braking

    - I then drive about 1/4 mile down the street to the next stop sign, the pedal goes about half way down the floor this time and is very soft, so I let up, and push the pedal down again, nice and firm! hmm

    - I drive about another 1/4 mile to the next stop sign in 3rd gear, push the brakes and it goes about half way again, so I let up and push again, nice and firm!!

    - I drive to the stop light about 3/8 of a mile away, nice and firm.. argg

     

    So the pedal pressure is iffy, sometimes firm and sometimes squishy..

     

    So I have bled the master cylinder 3 times, and I have bled the two front brakes many many many times... 6 times today.

     

    The master cylinder has been full of fluid, all the fittings are tight, and the bleed screws are tight..

     

    Here's my procedure :

    1. Open up the master cylinder cap

    2. Attach the vacuum pump and pump to (-)20 in.

    3. Open the bleeder valve about 1/4 of a turn and let it run to (-)15 in. close the bleeder. and pump back up to (-)20in.

    4. Repeat numerous times and switch to the other side

    5. Keep checking reservoir and make sure it's full

     

    I even had my brother pump the brakes 3 times and hold it down, in addition to the vacuum pump!!

     

    Any thoughts?? The master cylinder was replaced 2 years ago.

×
×
  • Create New...