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proxlamus©

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Posts posted by proxlamus©

  1. magnetic brakes are freakn cool..

     

     

    AK-Z your 100% correct, trailers do use electric brakes..

     

    My impression of this thread is for purely electric brakes.. which would be a no no.. bad bad idea

     

    Many many newer cars now use electronically assisted brakes... which would use an electric solenoid to push on the master cylinder, or even a solenoid on the actual caliper which would "aid" in addition to the hydrolic brakes, but i don't see the advantage of that.. except.. umm... i have no idea.. longer master cylinder life? haha

  2. weird..

     

    was it previously installed in a car by the previous owner??

     

     

    With a Gnose, you need special hinges, or the use of stock hinges, swings the hood out and up... using the stock hinges will cause the hood to hit the Gnose and potentially crack it...

     

    Im thinking, the previous owner, had no idea he needed special hinges, so he kept hitting the Gnose...

     

    soo.. in order to fix this problem, he trimmed a few inches off the leading edge to allow the hood to open and close freely...

     

    (i would of just used hood pins, so it doesn't have to swing open)

     

    Anyway.... no the gap should be no bigger than 1/4" but that is still pretty large... look at the gap between the hood and the fenders.. should be no larger than that.

  3. your 100% correct... the boost control will lack without a doubt, and the boost creep will be reduced..

     

    However, yes it will crack over time... I doubt the housing will be affected.. they are made of cast iron aren't they? they will hold up to alot..

     

    the air as it passes over the leading edges won't superheat or anything, but the intense heat from the exhuast will heat and crack the narrow, weakend puck.

     

     

    there is a downside to almost everything... but it would reduce creep wouldnt it?

     

    ;)

     

    just go external.. it'll be worth it in the long run

  4. *edit* weird... 240hoke and 2fiddyZ posted some threads.. I dont know where they went..

     

     

    Austin I mean to empahsize the stock T3 has two sources, into one source on the wastegate..

    the stock T3 would be a great cadidate for using a dual port wastegate since there are already two sources..

     

    Anyway.. the wastegate actuator won't do much for preventing boost creep.. and like 2 fiddyZ was mentioning.. the best place to have the boost sources are-

    The end of the compressor housing

    Right before the throttle body or tap the manifold

     

    That will send the overall "average" between the two sources into the wastegate for effective boost control..

     

     

     

    Best way to get rid of boost creep is - port the hell out of the wastegate opening.. and upgrade to a larger puck.

     

     

    Alot of guys also drill a small whole on the actual wastegate puck, to vent off extra pressure... so the air doesnt hit the puck and immediatly have to change direction causing resistance. With a hole drilled in the puck, the air will flow through the puck, minimizing resistance and interference drag.

     

     

    Interference drag = Parasite drag caused by the interference of airflow patterns around different parts (ie - wastagate puck)

     

    Ok I went ahead and did 3 MS PAINT pictures..

     

    #1 - basic system of a turbo which everyone should know

    #2 - air flow as it hits the wastegate and example of Interference drag

    #3 - hole in the wastegate puck, notice the slight improvement of airflow and slight reduction in interference drag

     

    330795_297_full.jpg

    330795_296_full.jpg

    330795_295_full.jpg

     

     

    I'm trying my best to describe it.. let me know if I may be inconclusive.. or I might of mixed something up

  5. the dual port will allow two vacuum sources..

     

    The stock Nissan T3 shows a great example of this...

     

    two ports out of the turbo

    4014504828.jpg

     

    One port in the beginning of the compressor housing, and one right at the end of the housing..

     

    the two different vacuum sources will be applied into the wastegate diaphram for a more "controlled" diaphram expansion and contraction..

    my educated assumption

     

     

    anyway..

     

    http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-FTG-010&Category_Code=BCS

    quicktap1_450.jpg

    quicktap4_450.jpg

     

    A boost pressure source near the compressor housing is critical for proper boost control, however, removing the compressor housing from the turbo to tap it for a pressure signal fitting can be a real chore...especially when the turbo is already mounted to the engine.

     

    Each QuickTap kit includes all parts necessary to easily create a reliable boost pressure port on the first silicone connector out of the turbo compressor outlet. Our QuickTap kit features 100% of the functionality and reliability of a fitting on the compressor housing without the hassle of drilling and tapping the housing itself.

  6. Dale MX ... keep in mind this will be different if you have a 14" wheel, or 15" or 16" wheel etc..

     

    do you mean a mark on the inside of the wheel? or the outside of the wheel? Outside of the tire?

     

    too many variables

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