theghosttanker

I have made my own control cables from stock originally made for lawnmowers, I got it cheap at the hardware/mower repair store. Heater cores aren't rare; you can buy a new one for 90 bucks at rockauto.com.

On your welder, the black and the white wires are both live, each carrying 110V but out of phase with each other. So a voltmeter across them reads 220 V AC. The green wire is a ground.Your welder has no neutral wire. You are, however, correct in your assessment of a 4-prong plug.It has two live 110V prongs, (also out of phase with each other) a ground, and a neutral. Some 220v appliances such as ovens or dryers have a 110V light in them, or have timer motors that run on 110v, and the way they work is that one of the 110v lines along with a white neutral wire provides the power for them. So if you put a voltmeter across EITHER hot wire and and the neutral you get 110V AC. Thus, a 4-prong outlet can supply 220 V across it's two live prongs as well as 110v between either hot prong and the neutral, simultaneously powering the 220V heating element in your dryer as well as the 110v timer motor.The wiring inside the dryer takes care of what gets what in terms of the power. You have a modern four prong dryer outlet, just put a matching plug on your welder. There is no reason to replace the cord. Connect the black welder wire to the black dryer outlet wire, your white welder wire to the red dryer wire, and your green or bare grounds together.Another way of directing the hookup is to tell you to pretend that the white wire on your welder is actually red, and your welder has no white wire to connect to the dryer outlet. The white neutral on the dryer outlet will be unused.grumpyvette is incorrect in telling you that the green is not used, it's the ground and has to be continuous and separate from the neatral wire all the way from the appliance to the fuse panel.If you hook the two hot lines from the dryer outlet to the single black wire on your welder you will simply short the two hot wires and make the main fuse blow.

Get yourself a real auto-darkening welding helmet! It makes everything sooooo much better!

The electrical code requires that you use a circuit rated for 120% of the anticipated load. You need to use a breaker and wire rated for 80 amps, as Miller says.

Unbolt the slave cylinder from the transmission housing and leave the hydraulic line connected. Now try to depress the clutch pedal. If you can't, you'll know that the problem is in the master, slave, or hydraulic line. If you can, then you have to pull the tranny and see what's wrong inside the clutch housing. The problem is most likely going to be in the slave cylinder, which is great since they are CHEAP. (get one from Rockauto.com for 12 bucks) There is no reason to drain the transmission fluid and check for chunks as drummingpariah suggests. This is a clutch problem.

Assuming that you have a welder, you can easily install new wire holders wherever you want . Just cut a thin strip of metal, drill a .125" hole in it, and plug weld it in place. This doesn't make a hole. use plasti-dip (made for coating tool handles, and available in different colors) for rubber ends. If you do this VERY carefully,(tack it and immediately put a wet rag on it, tack it again, go slow) you can install these even after you have painted the engine compartment.

You're asking US if your valves are out of adjustment? Go check!

Polishing the combustion chambers and piston tops to a mirror finish is a common practice. It helps with heat transference and reflectance and the removal of sharp edges in the chamber also reduces detonation problems.It doesn't make a huge difference but its one of those little tricks.

Bump

I have a 240Z shell up on a rotisserie right now and am just finishing up a floorpan/doglegs replacement on it. I read an old thread many months ago about rewelding some of the spotwelded seams to stiffen the car up, and I figure now's the time, but for the life of me I can't find the thread. I want to grind slots between every spotweld through the top layer of metal and then plugweld the layers together, but WHERE are the most important places to do this? This car will never see more than 400 HP, and the suspension setup will be Tokico struts and springs.

"Please do not respond if you have no idea what you are talking about"? How will you know the difference?

It's not so bad! Build yourself a rotisserie and have at it. I saw that ad in Craig's list too. If your engine or tranny are bad I have a complete running one here that you can have, all you need is to pull it outta the car. You can even use my heated garage, engine hoist, and tools. It does need to be dug out of the snowbank behind my shed though. I also have a new set of floorpans and frame rails for sale, and extra fenders and doors, plus lotsa other stuff. I currently have a shell on a rotisserie in my garage and am fixing it up; the car behind my shed will be donating its interior and battery tray area to it, and I'll be getting rid of the rest of it.

Another update on the Aussie rear sills: I also sent them a message a few days ago and asked them to quote shipping for a single unit but also a price for 25 units shipped, thinking a group buy might be a good idea. I'll keep you all posted on that.

A lot of machine shops around here use red transmission fluid on their finished work. WD 40 is absolutely inadequate for the job.

The p-90 head has a more modern combustion chamber shape and if you shave it to 080 it should perform significantly better than an e-88 with larger valves.I have used shaved and shimmed p-90's and p-79's for years and and have always loved them. If you decide to shave to 080 then you should be checking on everything: The valves need to be the ones specified for the n-47 head; they have stems that are 080 longer. The valve springs need to be shimmed up properly as well. The lash pad thickness has to be corrected to get proper wipe patterns. A new set of very high quality valves can be found at a very reasonable price if you google "SI valves". If I were you I would keep the p-90 and go this route; you will be VERY happy with the results and I would guess that it will also end up costing less than replacing the the valve seats and installing larger valves in the e-88 head.

I use an old woodworking compound miter saw for cutting tubing, with a 12" fiber wheel. Yes the plastic parts took a bit of a beating but it still worked OK, except that it is a good idea to pull a big sock over the cooling vents in the motor. The metal particles flying around get sucked into those ports both by airflow and by the magnetic forces generated by the motor, and they cause a lot of damage to the brushes and commutators once they get in there.

I had a similar conversation with a Tabco guy a few days ago when I ordered a set of doglegs. He told me the rear sill pieces are in the works and should be available in a month or so. It never occurred to me that they could make firewall and battery tray and inner fender pieces for the battery area, even though I am currently trying to replace those areas in my shell. Years ago, you could buy new rear quarter panels that ran all the way up to the area where they join to the roof. A guy was selling such a set on E-bay a few weeks ago and bidding ran into the thousands. Asking Tabco to make floor pans and frame rails is kinda pointless since they are available already. But full replacement rear quarter panels would sure be sweet, even if they only came up to the top crease.

Some safety rules to remember, which some guys here are forgetting: Of course all rubber hoses and clamps must be able to handle EFI pressure, so all the rubber hoses and clamps on the 240 need to be replaced. When everything is working perfectly, it's true that there is very little pressure in the return hoses, but things don't always work perfectly. A defective pressure regulator can indeed pressurize your return lines, and this of course is a dangerous situation. Defective venting in the tank can also cause the fuel vapor in the tank to pressurize the tank and the return lines, again causing safety issues. The ENTIRE fuel system should be able to handle pump pressure, and rubber hoses should not run exposed in the bottom of the car.

As you can see from the pictures, the battery tray, firewall and part of the iner fender had to be cut out. can anyone cut these out of a donor and help me out?

The valve stems are .080 longer in the n-47 head. These valves are used in p-90 heads by folks who are doing the head shave/cam tower shim modification that is very popular with p-79 or p-90 heads: the head is shaved 080 to raise the compression ratio, the cam towers are shimmed up 075 to keep timing chain tension correct,, and the long-stemmed n47 valves are used to keep the lash pad thickness and cam lobe wipe patterns correct. If you are planning to use your head for an NA build then this is a great option but if you are building a turbo motor or an NA motor with an unshaved head then no, you don't want to use these valves. If you Google SI valves you will find that high quality brand new undercut swirl polished valves are not that expensive.

If you close those vents up, your defroster will will work even worse, unless you crack open your windows or open the footwell vents. And, as you may have noticed, if you open your windows, the exhaust fumes get even worse in the car. And driving with your footwell vents open in cold weather kinda sux too, and once you get up to any good speed, they will also overpower your blower fan, once again making the defroster even worse. It depends in part on when and where you drive. Here in CT, I would leave the vents open.Instead of welding them shut, you might want to figure out some kind of trick cover that blends in better, maybe juust some kind of subtle louver work that is painted to match the body.

well if the door stamp says 73 it's a 73. Back in the day when your car was sold, it wasn't unusual to list the year of the sale date on the title, so I would say your car was a 73 sold in 74. There was a change in the middle of the 74 model year and I have seen some strange mixes of parts in the 73's and 74's....you can't just look at the fuel rail and tell when the car was made. The big difference is the motor, obviously. The cam in a 260 motor was slightly hotter than the other stock cams, and of course it had bigger displacement.

If you didn't check your valve lash before you did the compression test, you should do that first.

Well, insight number 1: If your car is a 73, then it's a 240Z, not a 260, which were only sold in 74 (in the US). Either way, your carbs are not factory original; they are Weber downdrafts, which were commonly put into 73 and 74 cars to replace the horrible factory original smog control carbs.Anyhow, enjoy the car; I'm always partial to keeping the stock inline sixes in them, although putting in a smallblock with aluminum heads and moving the battery to the back keeps the weight and handling just about the same.

So I was nosing around on e-bay and saw this... .http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180310913186&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem= is a turbonetics turbo a good brand? (I've been looking only at garrets). With the 40 trim would it work well on a mostly stock l-28? Please don't bid on my turbo!