theghosttanker

Rockauto.com

I successfully ran triple webers on the stock mechanical fuel pump, but I had trouble with double Webers, which was easily fixed by using a cheapo Spectre fuel pressure regulator. All of this is a much easier fix than using the electrical stuff!

You seem to be looking for no advice, but rather an argument. How can you possibly think that you can use a fan to move air which in turn is used to turn a turbine and that this could somehow be more efficient than just directly turning the turbine with the fan motor? And your arguments about heat vs exhaust pressure being what drives a turbo are silly, too. Exhaust gasses expand because they are under less pressure after they leave the exhaust port, and their temperature drops because the temperature of ANY gas changes in direct proportion with the pressure. Remember PV=nRT from high school chemistry? P=pressure V=volume n=Avagaddro's constant R=number of moles of gas T=temperature on the Kelvin (absolute) scale. The exhaust gas temperature is higher on the engine side of the turbine because it is at higher pressure; on the other side it is under less pressure and therefore has a higher volume and lower temperature. Thus, the amount of energy absorbed by the turbine is proportional to drops in pressure AND temperature; nevertheless this energy was produced by the motor and is quite large, in the area of 30 hp at "decent" boost levels. By "decent" boost levels I don't mean a lame boost level like 5 or 6 psi, either. The fact remains: if you want to force air into a motor under pressure, you need a lot more power than you think. Turbos rule because they are the most efficient, simple, cost effective way to do it. By the way, the whole point of forced air induction is to raise the VE above 100%, so your CFM requirement calculations aren't much use, either. The thing you need to look for is the horsepower (wattage)of the motor, and the efficiency of the fan. The higher the horsepower, the more air it will move. If the blower you are using only matches the requirements of the motor at 80% VE, then it won't raise your horsepower output at all, except for freeing up the horsepower lost through pumping loss. CFM's are DIRECTLY proportional to HP; they are both work/time units of measure.

The whole idea is totally impractical. Your electric blower ratings are for unrestricted airflow; as soon as you resist the airflow the CFM's will drop to useless levels. A real turbocharger consumes a huge amount of power to make boost...in the neighborhood of 30 hp. They are flowing hundreds of cfm's AGAINST 15 or 20 lbs of pressure. (or whatever your boost is set at) A 30 hp electric motor is huge, and because it takes power from the alternator, you would need a similarly sized alternator to drive it. In addition, the process of converting mechanical energy at the crank to electrical energy at the alternator and then back to mechanical energy with a blower motor is extrmely inefficient...alternators are about 60% efficient and motors are only a little better. That means a total efficiency of about 50%, as opposed to the relatively high efficiency of a turbo. Stick with a turbo.

If you have an e-31 head on there now just use a stock mechanical fuel pump with it and eliminate the electric one altogether.

I am in the process of making up a new intake manifold (similar to the LoneWolf design) and using a cable-actuated throttle body from a Mustang. So I will need to eliminate the stock throttle linkages and figure out a cable setup. I am using a megasquirt and eliminating the distributor so the log will be straight and there will be quite a bit of extra room around there. I'm sure I'm not the first person to do this but I have just looked through about 50 posts and still don't have any good ideas. If anyone has done this type of conversion and has a good picture or advice I'd sure appreciate it.

If by "slightly" moving, you mean you didn't move to a different tooth on the sprocket, then yes, you're fine.

squirt it in the carb throats with a turkey baster

I second zdiggs. The motor is probably fine, but if you want to check then do a compression test. But if you were able to turn it over and start it right up after 7 years it probably wasn't rusted in the cylinders. After sitting for 7 years, the carbs will be full of gunk, which will be clogging jets and orifices and floats. The dampening fluid may be gone from them as well, which can definitely make the car die when you give it gas.And all of the vacuum lines will be suspect. And the vacuum advance as well as the centrifugal advance may be sticky in the distributor too. My guess is that you need to spend a couple well informed hours going through the car to clean up these little details and it will run just fine.

Yeah I'll thank you! That's a great site to show a 13-yo that I know who is just starting out....

without a doubt, the biggest single thing to do to keep it from leaking is to flatten out the dimpled holes. Later cars had a thick metal strip that went between the pan and the bolts, around the rear of the pan, and if you have this piece you need to make sure it's flat too. Once some gorilla overtightens those pan bolts and dimples and deforms the pan, it is impossible to get the even, uniform light pressure on the gasket that you need. And when you reinstall your pan, don't be a gorilla. If the pan leaks, overtightening it will not help, it will just re-dimple it. To get the dimples out, don't just hit them with a hammer, you must back them with a "dolly"...something hard, flat, and at least three times as heavy as the hammer.

While we are relating "myths" vs "actual experience"... I ran a 460 lift cam on stock springs for 60K miles in an l-24 with no problems. It was a street car so in practice it was seeing only about 300 rpm's more than it did with the stock cam, and only in brief periods. I also lightened and balanced the rockers. So if you want to try it, I say go ahead.

The stock springs can handle up to .460 lift. If you go above that, they can coil bind.

I have experienced the same slight bending more than once when I have opened up heads to do valve lash. The 240 I'm driving right now has had the slight bend in it at the rear and I have driven it more than 20k miles that way. I suspect that it has been that way for the entire life of the car. The last two motors I've worked with also had it.Personally I would use the new spray bar because it's clean, straighten it gently if you like but my experience has shown that a little bend at the end doesn't hurt anything, and it doesn't have to be perfectly "dead on" straight.

I made mine myself...I went to the scrap yard and got a little piece of aluminum plate about a quarter inch thick. You can cut and form this using woodworking tools...I cut out the shapes with a band saw but it could easily be done with a jigsaw. The edges can be smoothed and rounded with a belt sander or just by hand on a coarse sheet of paper laid flat on the workbench. Holes punched with a nail and then drilled with an ordinary hand drill. I bead blasted and painted mine but you can just sand them with progressively finer grits to polish them up. Took me about half an hour in my shop, which means I would make a set (unpainted but bead blasted) for $40.00.

I've been sending PM's and also regular posts to this thread for a while now and not getting any replies. Are you still making parts? Cuz I would really like to buy a trigger wheel sized to fit my MSA damper and I would like to have it made without any missing teeth, so I could remove a tooth after I get the sensor mounting finalized.

Sounds like you've lost your hydraulic fluid....most likely cause is a bad slave cylinder, but it could also be a broken line or a bad master cylinder. Check the fluid level in the master; if it's low then top it off, then pump it and then check all three parts for leaks. Chances are you will find visible leakage at the slave. jeez I just noticed we're neighbors. You join the CT zcar club yet? What kind of car do you have?

There is no data plate, the seller says the turbo was rebuilt .

Kinda what I was afraid of. I live in rural CT and I don't have any opportunity to compare it directly to other turbos.How about partial dis assembly? What's the easiest/least risky way to make sure without risking screwing up the turbo?

yes but aren't there non-BB turbos out there that also have both oil and water lines?

Somebody is trying to sell me a Garrett T3/T4 BB turbo...how can I tell just by looking at the outside if it's really a BB turbo? (I'm not really a newb, but I haven't messed with a turbo since the Turbo Tom days.)

The later 240 motors with 9mm rod bolts can handle even more rpm's than an l-28. They can handle just as much torque. Their compression ratios are too high to run lots of boost though, and they also lack fuel injector ports.(an easily fixed problem) If you don't want to run a lot of boost they are fine, if you want lots of boost you need an intercooler and a reduced compression ratio. It's easier to just get an l-28 turbo motor and put it in the car.

I have a chance at a great deal on a turbo...a t3/t4 with an internal wastegate. But the wastegate is set at a low pressure. I will be using a megasquirt and want to run electronic boost control at a higher boost level. questions; Can I eliminate/block off the internal wastegate and use an external? How hard is it to raise the boost on the internal wastegate...is it just a spring replacement? Can I use electronic boost control with the internal wastegate (I think I can but I'm not certain) Should I just hold out for an external gated turbo? At the HP goals I'm shooting for (350-400 at the very most) do I need an external gate?

It's not the displacement of the motor that is important, it's the horsepower you expect to make with it. If you expect a big jump in horsepower with your swap, then you need to use a bigger pump and maybe even larger fuel lines. And yes, you can indeed do damage, if you run a turbo motor lean even briefly it can detonate.

I have replaced mine with ordinary tubing bought by the foot, which is of course much cheaper than buying a formed hose. However, I hafta warn ya, chances are the core or the heater control valve are what's leaking, rather than the hose itself.