MadMaxDallas

Proper timing when the timing chain cover is off is the only for sure way. #1 at TDC setting on 0 on the cam timing marks. Then the chain has two shiny links. One to match the indent on the crank gear (there is a small dot ) and same on the cam gear. With the valves closed on #1 cyl, they shiny link will match the position with the indent there.

Watch your oil pressure gague when cranking the engine. If it does not register pretty quick, it will lock out the starting (coil) I believe. Just another WAG

I have a wiring harass and ecu from 83 2+2 zxt but it was an automatic. If ya need it let me know. I have tested the ECU on my 83zxt to be sure its good.

I have a 83 engine complete, (some injectors missing) as I was going to rebuild it and put in palnet, 440 injectors etc. But don't have the money at this time. Has alternator, power steering pump, and air con. compressor. All just like it pulled it. I am asking 350$. I dont know what the freight is. I would have to build a crate suiteable for shipping too. Plus the shipping. Let me know. I dont have my camera today, or I would snap some pictures. Could do it tomorrow. I am leaving you a pm for your email address.

I have a complete turbo dash 1983, in red, (analog) not digital complete with all gauge's 50$ Believe it has a crack for sure as all I have seen get them in the same place. I am just north of lewisville, in lake dallas.

Yes I could have helped more. So here is a direct link. Read down near the bottom of the page, there are instructions for installation and getting the program http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html

Look on the site for FAST you can put your vin number in or if you post your vin number I have FAST setup and can give you the info

I have 2 280zxt myself, enjoy the heck out of them, of course their a bit heavy compared to the 240's 260's and I keep a good eye out on craigslist here in dallas. This one almost made me jump, but right now dont have the money for it. 72 240 drag car, that could be redone back for the street.

My sons Z (N/A) had the same problem with the key switch, if you would just turn it enough to start cranking it would work. If you just turn it all the way it would not.

Glad you got it figured out. It is easy if the engine is out. Doing it inside would kill my bad back. Ya other than all the stuff you have to clear out to get to it, its really not to hard. As a minimum, you will need the chain, and gaskets that cover the chain. I would suggest you get new chain tensioner too. There are two sides to that, a straight side (right side looking at front of engine) that does not wear much, and the left side that keeps the tension, you will for sure want to replace that, plus get the spring loading section that presses on the left side too. I dont know if you have the FAST program, it will let you put in your vin code and pull up all the parts you need. I believe its available if you search the forum, if not give me a pm. So its a nice cam huh? Well I have this turbo motor setting here in the garage, waiting for me to start taking it apart... While I love the inline 6 motor, I have been doing some comparisons on the amount of cash I want to spend on making it a 325 hp motor, and putting a ls1 in it.... that has even more potential. On paper, it is almost a wash. The only difference is the pride of building a inline 6 that can still give em hell. Verses somebody saying "well you have a ls1". Also, look around if you dont have a manual on the motor, there are ones online. It will describe how to line up that chain. Decisions Decisions... Again, I dont envy doing that job in the car...

It is in the link he posted above, print it out, put it in a 3 ring binder.

You can check if the timing is right or not. Take the spark plug out of #1 cyl. and your valve cover off. Remove the wire from the coil to dizzy so it will not start. Bump the motor, trying to get the cam lobes to the 10 and 2 o'clock position on #1 cylinder. When you are close, look at the timing mark on the crank shaft, it SHOULD be near 0 deg. Move it until it is actually on 0 deg on the mark. Look closely at the cam lobes. See if they are still in the 10 and 2 o'clock position. (at this time you should also check that the piston is fully up, in case the chain has jumped drastically.) If they are not, your timing is off. I have only set the timing when I have had the front of the cam chain cover off. There are marks on the cam gear, and crank gear (little Ticks) and you align the chain using the two marked links onto these Ticks (there are two links that are brighter than the others). I would suppose if it is off, you could try and get it aligned by observing just the cam lobes, trying to get them centered while you are on the timing mark on the crank shaft. Maybe others could give you a better way, I am just giving you what I have done.

That statement is not true they will jump time, and since you were "driving it like you stole it" its a pretty good chance you did. That does not mean I dont do it. Bit of searching will make it easy on you, looking for timing chain or valve timing. Easy way would be just to check compression, if timing is off, you will have low compression.

If ya do t this, document it well and let us know!

What has happened is its off the pivot or the pivot is broken on the passenger side. Like others said, remove the vent cover between them, 8 screws, and look in there, sometimes it just comes off the pivot.

Do you just need the vacuum can with the cable? I have one if you need it.