crapforum

L series is yes Nissan, it refers to the stock motors in these cars (l24 2.4 litre, l28 2.8 litre). I agree a small block chevy will be simplest swap but recommend against the crate motor. IMO a SBC is not worth $2000, you can find them used all over the place as low as a couple hundred bucks. The transmission you will put behind it will most likely determine most of the cost. Be sure to keep reading, you have a ton you need to learn before you start doing this. I would recommend a L33 or comparable chevy ls engine (not to be confused with the Nissan L series), but they are a good bit more complicated to swap (but also more rewarding).

I'd buy whatever you can find in the best condition. My recommendation is don't give a crap about what the stock engine is, they are quite frankly all worthless and any money spent on them would be better spent on a modern engine. I'm sure some people which mod them will disagree but hp/doller a motor swap is the best. A 280z will be the easier platform to start with because you will probably be able to reuse the stock fuel injection stuff (fuel pump, tank, fuel lines), and they also will have slightly stronger axles.

torque converter and flex plate is on an auto car, manual has the flywheel and clutch. Get close to the car and pinpoint where the noise is from then, could be related to flywheel and clutch, could be your engine getting ready to throw a rod. Regardless you shouldn't drive it, at first I woulda guessed torque converter but you said it was manual.

Hey guys so I got a 73 240z which came with factory air, only issue is the PO removed all stuff under the hood (compressor, drier, condenser, hoses) I'm trying to replace that stuff and not sure what to do for the condenser. I'm looking for the cheapest and best option, I know I've seen condenser drier combos out there, not sure what people are sticking in their cars theses days. Let me know what you have done for condenser and driers. I saw that I could get a condenser drier assembly from a nissan versa for under $50, was tempting. Side note the car is a LS swapped car.

Just out of curiosity did you get this idea by watching roadkill by any chance, cause thats what got me going . And is that 200hp at the wheel or crank? If your going to swap a motor may as well shoot for higher numbers it wont take any more money or effort.

Thanks everyone its been a very satisfying, love the torque everywhere It is an LY6 with LS3 intake and injectors and VVT cam with about 224/230 114 LSA .590 intake .580 exhaust lift. I had gapped the rings loose, head studs, and LS9 head gasket as well because this was going to be a turbo motor.

Sounds like a nice build, just use gm parts for all the stuff you are missing. I would have recommended buying a complete motor assembly, the little parts add up in price quickly (bolts, gaskets, wires, sensors, etc). I have a LY6 which is a 6.0 that came factory with those L99 heads, I swapped in a cam with .590 .580 lift and added an LS3 intake assembly. Just got back from the dyno today and made 392hp and tq at the wheels through a TR6060. Also good luck on finding the 6 speed, those things are like gold to everyone these days. Also I am using the stock R180 with stock axles and some stock tires size and compound. With that combination it is surviving so far, I imagine if I got some sticky tires and did hard launches it would not last very long, but me just driving around on the street and only flooring it once it builds up some speed is keeping it alive. The R200 and turbo axles that you have on the other hand should survive even with some hard launches.

Got a little bit of dyno tuning, it had a baseline of 374hp and 374tq, ended up with 392.4hp 392.51tq with that 20 extra showing up throughout the whole powerband as well as the power coming in a little quicker on the bottom end. So somewhere around the 480hp at the motor, I'm happy for now All this on some 87 octane and 9.6:1 compression.

Lol I just posted this exact same thing in the HPTuners forum. Issue is that your ECM is programed for an auto and it has throttle holds and blah blah blah. Check out my thread, you have to grab spark and DFCO tables from a manual car and transfer them over http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showthread.php?51612-Engine-waits-before-losing-RPM-with-0-throttle

Haha I got tired of seeing a code pop up when tuning the motor with my laptop saying "check engine light failure" so I added one. Added a sticker to make it more check engine like

Well exhaust leak sorted out for now, the engine revs much better now and it seems to have gained even more horsepower, seems proper O2 readings are very important on these new engines. Also found a place to wire my check engine light to: Seeing as how I no longer have a choke I soldered the check engine wire from the ECM onto that bulb. Illuminates nicely and required no extra wires or modifications to the stock interior.

Just got of the phone with them and they said that I could mail it back to them for fixing, since I didn't want to ship it to California and wait I asked for some reimbursement which they offered $30. Not much but will buy me some stainless steel wire and beers for my buddy to fix it. I hooked a vacuum to the exhaust pipe to pinpoint the leak, it was where all 4 primaries combine in the collector, up between the top two, probably the most annoying part to try to get into to repair. I would bench test them if I was you by blocking off the ports that go to the cylinder head and hooking a vacuum to where the v-band is, kind of glad it was the driver side one since pulling the steering shaft is actually easier than messing with the starter on the other side.

The datsun cable did look quite different than my camaros which had a gear on the end of it so I'm not sure if they match. I know that you can get a mechanical output on the T56 installed for about the same price as a cable x

These are the CXRacing headers. There is still a small chance it is the V-Band leaking but I've adjusted the pipes a number of times so that they mount very good and flat on the v-band flanges so I'm pretty sure its ruled out. This is an obvious leak (can hear a ticking and smell and feel exhaust blowing around there)

Turns out my exhaust leak is actually coming from the driver header where the tubes merge into the collector. Not sure how to fix it, pretty disappointed about that since it is a pain to get it in and out. I remember briefly looking over the welds before I put it on and it looked ok, guess not..

Just FYI for others in the future, when you go to wire up your fans (you may have to add the wires to the connector), you want to use low speed fan pin if you only have 1 fan, I had mine hooked up to the high speed fan pin thinking that that would be better. I was having some hard times getting the fan to turn on in the tune, turns out that the hi speed fan is tied to the A/C and you must edit the A/C values in the tune to get it to come on. Also the high speed fan will only come on if the low speed fan is on first, so you have to lower your low speed fan numbers to get it to always be on so the high speed fan will come on when you want. Next step is to get this thing dyno tuned for maximum performance and good gas mileage. More fan tips: The high speed fan is fan #2 so make sure to specify you have 2 fans in the tune, also in case anyone is wondering it seems the 3 row radiator (280z? one) is adequate for cooling the LS motors when you have a good fan.

Yep that is what I ended up doing as well, I still have the thermostat out though. Seems to be cooling fine now, tuning has been a lot more than I expected, many many changes needed to be made. Main issue was it wouldn't rev past 4k RPM from some tranny limiters that were being enforced since it has no tranny signal. And the 5th gen sending unit is a beast, I have been driving this thing around with only 2 gallons of gas in the tank with no starvation issues. Tach is fixed, was a tuning issue as well, need to work out the tune to enable the electric fan properly now. Man the car is fun! Sidenote: really handy to have torque control with these motors, keeps me from blowing up the tires and hopefully keep the rear end alive (noticed the diff leak a couple drops already though )

Almost had a very bad day, took it for a test spin for 2 minutes and was vigilantly monitoring the oil pressure the whole time with the tuning software. And while that was all good I failed to notice the climbing coolant temperature, saw 212 when I cut it off, after I cut it off it rose to about 250 . I don't think the engine was sucking in coolant, radiator was not hot, removed thermostat and now the radiator gets hot. Anyone know if my coolant hoses are backwards (I don't think they are)? I have the one with the thermostat going to the bottom of radiator and the other too the top. Exhaust is quite loud at the moment, seems to be some leaks in it at front, video is deceiving in terms of volume it is loud in person. Clutch needs some adjusting, it engages very early makes it hard to control. Need to check the tach wiring and settings too since its reading 0. Otherwise the engine is a monster, I can feel the car wanting to twist every time I grab a gear. Here it is on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Rw1tc-g6bg

Well guess what fired right up today! Yep its alive and running strong, issue was the tune. Had to disable a bunch of checks and codes for emissions, catalysts, rear O2s, etc. Now to button up the last little things to get it on the road.

Well I had heard people were shifting to the fifth gen units, the guy that sold me the LS3 intake had the whole sending unit cheap so I grabbed it. Looking back the 4th gen would have been much better. Well that is not what I was hoping to hear the packaging said "resistant to all fuels and petroleum products" maybe it was a different formula? Yep that was the only thing I turned off though (all I had heard about). I went back into the computer and also disabled something called "starter checks" which I think was causing the problem. Also had to disable all checks for emissions stuff, fuel level sensor, rear O2s, and check for the transmission. I think it should fire up tomorrow morning its almost midnight here now so I'll wait till people aren't sleeping.

Car came to life today, briefly... Need to investigate the computer and the grounds. If I turn the key from off to crank it fires off right away but for only a second. If I keep the key on ON and try to crank it never fires off. Not sure what is up but will check the tune. Noticed that the power to everything else was getting cut during start, tied together some old coil wires to fix that at least for the ECM stuff. The y-pipe was a pain to get on, had to trim this corner off the TR6060 to get it to fit: Here's the sending unit all jb welded and looking like crap in the tank, but it works good:

The issue with the mounts is the depth. The compressor back will extend into the motor mount, for reference the back of the alternator on the driver side is almost touching the mount: I think that the alternator may need to be clearancing using the fbody accessories since the truck actually spaces it forward a bit. Here is the gas tank with the paint can in it, the metal is very thin on the can, if I had noticed sooner I would have looked for something else. Only placed a number of tacks on it because it was burning through jb welded the rest later. About to go pick up the fuel lines then I will hook it all up. One issue with the paint can is that it is not the optimal diameter for the big 5th gen sending unit, it doesn't give much space to weld on a hold down ring. I bought some real strong bar magnets which I am using 8 of to hold the sending unit on (each has 26lb holding force) when tested for leaks it didn't. Shifter is in, tranny is almost in, have to drill two holes to mount the crossmember and it is very hard to get a drill in there. I picked up a 1 foot drill extension which should allow me to get in there. Driveshaft is in too.

Fixed it lol

It would require fabbing a new tranny tunnel to fit it

Almost did, those wingnuts were very hard to get off. Figuring out that a 3/4" socket fit over them is what saved my life.