crapforum

I ordered this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/131454778801?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT which I hope will work. It spaces the alternator forward to line up with the truck pulley, so looks like clearance behind the alternator is no issue, just hope it can clear the driver frame rail. I'll comment on fitment when it arrives (probably Monday). Looking for an LS3 intake now to use, seems easier then modifying the hood lol. Also looks like I can get the stock shifter to fit if I cut back the shifter opening some more, looks like it will just be able to fit in the stock center console.

I'm not sure, the cxmounts angle back toward the firewall off of the stock mount towers, if the low mount alternator could fit without hitting the stock motor mounts thenn it should work. On another note progress has been very slow, planned to use a 2010 camaro clutch master cylinder, and driveshaft. Turns out the clutch master will not work since it bolts from the inside of the firewall and doesn't have enough room in there to fully extend its rod, and the stock camaro 2 piece driveshaft is much to long, so long actually that just the front half alone reaches the read diff. I went ahead and bought a Tilton clutch and a bunch of fittings for the transmission. Seems the TR6060 has a built in pump that routes to a cooler, on top of that it doesn't use the standard 1/4" NPS plug that all automatics have been using, seems to be some odd tiny bit larger than 1/4" plug. Also none of the stock truck accessories work, the alternator pokes out about 2 inches above the hoodline, the AC compressor bracket will bolt in but the AC compressor hits the stock motor mount towers, the power steering pump clears but that is not used The stock truck intake hits the hood latch in the back and also protrudes above the hoodline some.

Tried to get the headers and tranny cross member in today. Looks like for the headers I'll have to pull off the starter on the passenger side to get it in and the steering rod on the drivers side to get it in. The crossmember does look like it can be easily modified to work with the TR6060, everything lines up I just need to drill another slot to get the tranny mount screws to go through. As you can see the TR6060 has two mounting screws. When I mocked it up it looked like all I need is to add a slot next to the slot on the right, the leftmost slot seemed to line up with one of the two bolts on the TR6060. I plan to tap into the factory sensors for the gauges, if that proves to difficult I'll try to splice off of the factory coolant temp sensor in the drivers head, and if that fails I'll add a sensor on the passenger side head bung. One thing to note is that most of the front half of the CX racing motor mount plates can just be chopped off since you will probably end up using the furthest back bolt holes only.

It looks like 5" to the bottom of the latch to the valley, the headers seem plenty big (1.65" OD) and the car is not quite as clean as it looks. The rear fender flares both have a good amount of bondo on them as do the corners of each of the door rockers, but overall it is pretty solid.

It all began with a perfectly functional 73 240z which I planned to drive while I put a turbocharged LY6 in my Camaro. Time went on, the Camaro got sold and the juiced up V8 needed a home. Being that it was a truck motor and I wanted to keep the stock accessories and utilize AC I went the CX Racing route (cause I really didn't want to chop a corner off my block for that passenger side motor mount). The kit came with motor mounts, trans mount, full length headers, header gaskets, and full exhaust with v-bands. Things needed are motor mount bolts (the ones to the engine block), 2x bolt and nut to fasten the motor mounts to the motor mount towers, 2x bolt and nut to mount tranny mount to the tranny mount connection point, 2x bolt and nut to mount tranny mount through the tranny tunnel. Who needs a 2.4 when you have a 6.0 First thing to do for the swap is to remove the factory motor mounts, secured by one bolt underneath them. Mine both rounded out after a few turns which resulted in one of my fingers getting sliced really deep, had to saw out the old rubber mounts and grind the bolt out from above. In the end you get this: Next step is to grind the crap out of the stock transmission mounting tabs. This part was by far the most annoying part of getting the motor in. The tranny will collide with these if you don't grind enough. Check out CXRacings youtube video and look VERY close to get a feel for just how much metal you need to remove. Another thing that needs to be removed on the TR6060 is the CAGS solenoid which otherwise collides with the stock tranny mounting tabs (Dorman part 090-040 will plug this hole). You can see the CAGS solenoid hitting below, also note that I had to take a good bit more metal off the tabs before I got the tranny to fit. Heres a shot of where the tranny lines up with the shifter hole, it looks like I will need to shorten the stock TR6060 linkage an inch to get it to fit, 2 inches to get it centered (stock shifter pokes out from the back of the tranny about 1.5") A note on the engine mounting plates the kit provides, I ended up with mine using the 2nd from the back mounting hole. Seems you can't use many that bring the engine farther forward because then the tr6060 case hits the tranny mounting tabs. As you can see with the picture showing the CAGS when the tailhousing portion of the tranny bolts on it protrudes a good bit, to get the tranny in you have to put it far back enough to get that protrusion in front of the tranny mounting tabs which equated to the 2nd bolt hole back on the motor mounting plates. You could also move the tranny forward an extra 2" or so to put it in front of these tabs, but then you lose some weight distribution (but can utilize stock TR6060 shifter). Heres how it sits now, will try to get tranny crossmember mounted soon (seems it will work with TR6060 if I drill new holes that bolt to the transmission's rubber mount) and also set the headers in.

The factory motor mounts, the part with the rubber in it that bolts to the mounting towers, old tranny crossmember also is no longer needed. Here is a couple more pictures, I'll open a build thread once I get further in.

CXRacing kit came last week, have old mounts out and new mounts in (man it took like 5 hours to get the old mounts out, stock bolt too rusted and rounded off, lots of grinding followed). Mounts are a nice aluminum while everything else is stainless. The exhaust (pipes,muffler,resonator)is a polished stainless, very nice looking, have new motor on the floor connected to my tr6060, will set it all in there soon. Heres a few pics for now:

I have a truck motor (LY6) so I think it will be easy, but yea I too was looking at the mounts on the block and it seems you can cut off the front portion. I'm hoping that that will allow me to use the factory AC compressor on the passenger side which is definitely not possible with JCI.

Well I have the full CX kit on the way. I post about the fitment with my LY6 when it's in.

Hawks headers do look a little nicer, but they don't have any flanges on them where CX's stuff has vbands on everything which is very nice. Dirty Dingo really rubbed me wrong with how they sell their stuff, they charge premium then ask me to pay extra just to get the things coated in something other than raw steel. I'm trying to get my hands on a CX kit to do the review, the full stainless exhaust system peaked my interest.

I was going to go the build my own mounts route cause I have a truck motor and wanted to keep the accessories, but that CXR kit is looking promising. Motor, Tranny, Headers, Y pipe combined for less than hawks headers . Fricking overpriced as shit at hawks...

JCI kit states it also works for RHD. Those mounts state the steering needs modification to clear, and they are the same mount for both sides so I immagine it will have issues on a RHD as well.

Hey guys, seems like there is a lot of questions about these with not much answers so I'll break it down for you. These motor mounts only work with Hawks headers, nothing else, and even then will sometime need to be sent back to get to work with your particular car. Only purchase these if you want to use the expensive Hawks full length headers. Otherwise make your own (the Hawks use energy suspension motor mount kit plus some pipe) or use JCI. End of thread.

Lol no, a LT1 T56 is cheap and easy to find. They can be had for $1000 on craigslist. Just use the stock bellhousing as it was made to mount to an LT1.