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Driveshaft came in, also got Speedhut speedometer and tachometer in. I got the 4.5" gauges on a hunch they would fit perfect, and guess what they do! I removed the old gauges from the buckets, removed the bezel from the speedhuts, put electrical tape around them to keep the glass on, removed the old datsun glass, and they slid right in. The wingnuts were a giant pain in the ass to get off, had to squeeze a pliers in to get at them, and then the speedo had one nut that wouldnt budge. Once I got the tach off I was able to slip in a socket wrench with a 3/4" socket, fits right on the wingnut. Had to pull these tubes out, just grab them and wiggle with pliers till they break Had to knock out the back of the speed and cut a little tab for the GPS screw: It fits!: Wiring them up All done And the driveshaft to soon go in

The only stock lines to keep are for the brakes, everything else can be ditched. That is unless your trying to run some sort of EVAP system with the LS motor to suck in gas vapors. I would also see if you can get the motor in with the headers and starter attached, will save you the hassle of stuffing them in later (I think it can be done).

Go ahead and run your fuel lines, and move that passenger side brake line to the top of the frame rail while the motor is out, will save you a headache. Also check out CX Racing's youtube video on how much to grind down the stock tranny crossmember mounts and cutting that tranny tab off. Get rid of CAGS solenoid on the t56 as well with a drain plug.

Solution to fuel sending unit found: Yeahhhh what happens to cost next to nothing, is made of steel, fits a camaro sending unit in it and reduces welding by 90%? Yep paint bucket. Gona drill out the bottom with a hole saw (a new paint can of course), and cut to the desired height, now if only it had a lip on the top... another fun fact there are 1 gallon cups out there that do! I may look into one of those as well

Yeah those are remnants of the old fuel system, I have since ripped them out. Fuel line I'm using is 1/2" aluminum with AN fittings. Here is my current issue: As you can see the fifth gen camaro pump is much to short to fit the datsun tank well, the fourth gen would have been a much better choice. The angle of the picture is a little deceiving, the pump is to tall to fit into the shallower part of the tank when compressed I plan to cut a valley into the tank like this: Would cut pretty deep into the tank though, probably lose 3-4 gallons of capacity, maybe if I could find or make a steel box I could just cut out a square from the top to reccess the pump into. Also if there was some way to extend the pump pickup deeper. Also silly me the rubber piece on the end of the MAF that I thought I needed to slide a tube into actually can be pulled off to reveal just a plastic pipe to hook a filter right on. I took the trucks old fresh air pcv tube and cut it a little, drilled my silicone elbow, and shoved it in really tight. Looks to be airtight, will add some sealant if not: Found this on Ebay to address the steam vent issue, steam line will go into this T on the top radiator hose: Says its 38mm hose with a 1/8th npt hole that I can put a barb on. Was $14

Yep any straight or metal pedal would work very well. Could even chop the datsun pedal off and weld it to a metal pedal. Wiring is officially done now, engine bay looks a bit cleaner now. I hooked the fuel pump relay up near the fuse box in the car since that is where the fuel pump wiring went and was able to utilize the stock fuse: Engine bay looking cleaner: I have been holding off buying an air filter because I was hoping I could find one with a 4" pipe as a base instead of just a rubber part to slip over a 4" pipe. My MAF will only take a 4" pipe clamped into it: Now just need to figure out how where I want to hook the steam line and PVC clean air port into. Also need to do something about the oil fill tube on the valve cover, it is too tall since it came from a truck and it doesn't rotate it seems. *EDIT* the oil filler does rotate, just had to put like 50lbs of force on it, had dried and caked oil residue gluing it in place. Cleaned that up and it rotates with little force.

I'll post a video of it running for the sound as soon as its done, should be only a couple more weeks. Driveshaft is ordered and on the way Clutch line adapters also on the way, this little thing cost way to much: Here is my gas pedal for now ideally it would be lower to the floor: Speedhut gauges should be arriving soon for the Tach and Speedo

The kit has been good to me, I have no regrets. Having some real headers and nicely done exhaust (with vbands so it will never leak) is what won me over, I know that I will never have to worry about the exhaust anytime in the future. The crossmember was easy to modify for the TR6060; if I had a T56 this kit would have made things a breeze. Only thing is that the kit was short a few bolts, not too big a deal but still something. Finally tracked down the wires for the electric fuel pump in the cabin, have a relay on the way to attach it to. Mounted and wired the relay for the fan and IGN circuit and tested everything, all wiring under the hood is now complete! Mounted the truck electric pedal, it is a horrible pedal for this application, the shape was very off for fitment and since its plastic I can't chop it up to make it perfect. I got it mounted in a usable position, but its not ideal. Pictures to come tomorrow. Dropped the tank, examined it for mounting the camaro sending unit, will post pics of my plan tomorrow as well. Trying to figure out how to run my fuel line now, seems the stock line will be restrictive.

Yep stock radiator, it is 3 row though which I thought came in the 280z only. Haven't tried mocking up the rest of the exhaust because I wanted to get the tranny in its permanent place first, but I have high confidence it will fit like a glove. Got the computer programmed yesterday, had to add wires to the ECM for the 2 serial data lines and the fan relay (truck came with manual fan so no wires from factory). Simple tune for now since I'm learning: removed VATS, updated injector table to match the LS3 injectors, enabled the electric fans, and changed the cam VVT phaser tables. Gonna drop the gas tank this week to see what I can do with it, if it turns out to be nasty inside and a nightmare to add the camaro sending unit to I will buy a local for sale factory fuel injected tank.

Car is almost there! Got the shifter linkage cut and tranny crossmember slotted again. Now everything lines up, still need to weld the shifter linkage though. Finally found the hose that fits the upper if your using a truck water pump (part E 71751 from advance auto), got all miscellaneous hoses hooked up except the fresh air for PVC and the steam line at the radiator. Got 95% of the wiring done, and a little mounting plate for the ECM bolted in where the old IGN coil was. Have a fuse block and relays that will also bolt to this plate, they pull power from the alternator. Had my universal electric fan left from my old Camaro and what do you know it fits! Just had to cut some aluminum mounting tabs to bolt it to radiator. Hooked up the power to the car and all seems well, the original Datsun stuff works and the motor turns with the key. Tranny cooler is also in for good. MAF is in place and wired up, used a 4" to 3.75" silicone elbow and it fits perfect. Also had HP Tuners get delivered so once I wire up the OBD2 port I can flash the ECM. Now awaiting clutch line adapters so I can bleed the clutch before bolting in the tranny. After that I need to figure out the fuel system.

Wanted to update and say that I have my wires how I think they will last. Have the power going over top the starter and then power going out from the started to the front of the motor and across. Had to bend the terminals for the power cables at 90* to make them route good. Wrapped them in insulator sleeves and then wrapped the started in a insulator blanket. Both are some sorta fiberglass weave with aluminized outside.

Yep T56 will not have any of these issues, magnum should also not have the issues. Thanks for the link, it seems that the distance the driveshaft falls below or under the diff does not matter, but instead that they are both parallel. That said I don't think I will need to worry about clearancing the tranny tunnel just adjusting the diff's angle.

Supposed to be 1.65" which is a tiny bit larger than 1 5/8 Yeah I will have to move that brake line, but the stock truck dipstick did fit just fine! Below you can see the clearances I was talking about, I will probably buy a heat reflective starter blanket as added protection. Hopefully the MSD wires are more heat resistant now, the ones I had that were melting were about 7 years ago!

This is the part in contact with the tranny tunnel bracing:

I haven't been worried about it yet, to me the cross member and motor mounts look beefier than anything else on the car lol. On another note I went about trying to get the tranny bolted in. I sloted the tranny cross member to fit the TR6060 mount, but it seems I need to slot it in the opposite direction then what it did shown below: Also seems the stock shifter's groove fits exactly into the 240z's shifter hole.... May have it hard mounted like this: Cut up all the factory shifter's mounting feet and rod and when placed in the car it didn't look like I'd ever get it to work, if I hardmount the shifter like above I only have to worry about getting the rod that goes from shifter to tranny the right length. Also noticed now that with the tranny jacked up as high as it will go in the tunnel the driveshaft is about 2 inches below being centered with the rear diff. Can't jack the tranny any higher up because the bump on top the TR6060 that the remote shifter linkage comes out of contacts the bracing in the tranny tunnel. Seems if you flatten it some you can get a more ideal driveshaft angle, I'll wait till I drive the car to see if it causes an issue, don't feel like pulling the tranny and beating the crap out of the tunnel just yet

Thanks for all the recommendations, I went and ran the positive over top of the starter, seems it will do okay. The issue was that if I have the battery cable going straight up and over the starter then the metal foot on the cable end would be very close to the pin on the starter that tells the starter solenoid to kick on. I had to bend the metal foot to point sideways to keep it clear from that solenoid pin, but this places it towards the header. I'll post a picture later today. I know exactly what you mean with the MSD wires, I HATE THEM. I had them on my 78 Camaro and even with plug boots they would melt, I blame myself for buying into the heavy advertising MSD does. I went with Taylor plugs as well and they were excellent.

Im using the CXRacing kit with the headers they have: Clearance is similar to going between primaries as going behind on the firewall side

Ok so as you guys know the battery sits on the passenger side and with the stock motor the positive lead ran straight to the starter. With a V8 in there now there is a nice red hot header that is between the battery and the cable. Question is do you guys run a longer battery + cable around the header or do you go through the header and use some sort of insulation. With either of the said option what are the results?

So that low mount alternator kit does work just fine with the truck setup, just barely enough room. If the engine shakes to much I may have to rotate the bracket so the positive lead doesn't hit the frame. And with the belt on, it is a Goodyear 4060547 belt:

Agreed LS9 cam is a great cheap swap, the trucks had very mild cams factory, be sure to grab some new valve springs while your at it. I also replaced the lifters and valve stem seals when I did mine, lifters can be had for about $80 a set and seals like $30 a set. I have VVT so had to get a custom grind cam, but if I wasn't VVT I would have LS9.

Where did you hear that? I'm pretty sure you can tune out just about anything, lots of people swapping those setups into old trucks easily enough. I would be concerned with the 6l80e's size, I got a pullout with a 6l90e and it is a good bit fatter that the 6 speed manual I bought to put behind the motor instead, and the manual is quite a tight fit.

Got the passenger side header on and the wiring done. Man the passenger header was a HUGE pain to get in, you have to remove the starter to get it on, but cant get the starter back on when the headers bolted down. I had to jerk the header up in this weird angle to be able to squeeze the starter in and then push the header back down to bolt it all up. All the pinks get tied together to IGN and the purple wire is to the starter solenoid. Working on the crossmember now, drilled the holes too low, need them way up high, also seems the tr6060 rubber mount hits the bolts for the side tabs on the crossmember, may need to modify it.

I am in the RTP area so about 2 hours out from Charlotte. Do you have a motor yet? You can PM me about questions and such.

Yeah I contacted the seller and they are shipping some new spacers. Also got myself a LS3 intake take off and put it on as well as the camaro fuel sending unit. Should be easy enough to get this fit into the stock tank.

Well the alternator mounting bracket came in. Some good and bad news, good news is the alternator clears the frame rail and everything else, bad news is that the kit doesn't space the alternator far enough forward to line up with the pulley. Contacting seller to see if I can have that resolved, otherwise I'll just slip in some washers to space it. Another thing about it is it hits the VVT plug unless you flip it upside down. Also got the driver side header in. Needed to remove the steering shaft as well as the oil filter. Was a pain to get it in but once in there there is a good amount of wiggle room to bolt it up. Noticed that the header just barely clears the little cup things that poke off the frame rail to hold that suspension tension rod. Seems if you move the engine any further forwards than where I am (the second from last mounting bolt) then you will hit it. Will have a LS3 intake here in a day or two, and also picking up the fuel module out of a 5th gen Camaro that I'm gona put in the gas tank to fix the whole poorly baffled tank and lack of fuel system I have.