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  1. Currently working on my first project car; a 1993 Nissan 300zx Z32. The car came as an NA 2+2 shell, so instead of rebuilding the measly VG30DE, I decided to swap in an LS series engine. Parts list is as follows 300zx LS swap LM7 5.3L Engine- $500- BOUGHT LOJ Swap kit- $2,700 My total- $435 Mounting Custom trans bracket Custom shifter bracket Custom alternator bracket Custom accessory bracket Cut/balanced driveshaft- Universal Automotive- $85 http://www.universalautomotiveconcordnc.com/index.html Accessories ACDelco F body water pump- $100 Fluids JEGS oil pan- $170 http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/50228/10002/-1 JEGS oil pickup- $40 http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/50247/10002/-1 Griffin Radiator PN 1-25241-X- $180 Ebay GM oil filler neck PN 12570623- $10 http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-12570623-Oil-Filler-Tube/dp/B00GV8O6I2 ACDelco fuel cap PN FC208- $10 http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-FC208-Original-Equipment-Engine/dp/B000C9TTJM/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1XZWE2S8NQKEGFR24B88 Electrical Stock wiring harness with PCM reflash Battery AC Delco spark plugs PN 41-110- $40 Ebay Coolant temp sensor ACDelco- $20 Ebay Exhaust Trailblazer SS manifolds- $150 Custom header-back exhaust Misc. Hose clamps Fuel, oil, coolant, and vacuum lines. Wire, connectors, electrical tape Power/rebuild Stock (LS1, LS6, 6.0L) camshaft- $140 Machine work- $100 Cam bore bearings (waiting on sizing)- $40 Clutch fork boot- $15 https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-oem-300zx-fork-boot-z32-30542-31g10_p_1936.php Input shaft seal- $10 https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-oem-300zx-manual-transmission-seal-front-input-shaft-z32-32114-y4000_p_2574.php Rear output shaft seal- $15 https://conceptzperformance.com/nissan-oem-300zx-rear-transmission-output-driveshaft-input-seal-90-96-z32-32136-01g10_p_2375.php Remaining- $1,090 Purchased Victor Reinz gasket kit- $130- BOUGHT Ebay ARC switch panel- $55- BOUGHT EZ wiring standalone chassis wiring harness- $200- BOUGHT *May require additional circuits, switches ACT 6 puck clutch/pressure plate- $200 BOUGHT *May not work with adapter plate/flywheel Speed Engineering motor mounts- $80- BOUGHT Custom adapter with lightweight flywheel- $100- BOUGHT *Still need to repair, balance, and re-make F-body harmonic balancer- $60- BOUGHT Spent- $825 The order of things Machine work $100 Cam bearings- $40 LS1 camshaft- $140 Build adapter plate AC Delco spark plugs PN 41-110- $40 Trailblazer SS manifolds- $150 Jegs oil pickup- $40 Jegs oil pan- $170 Coolant temp sensor- $20 Weld motor mounts Mount engine Transmission seals, clutch fork boot, sensors Transmission mount Shifter linkage Driveshaft shortening- $85 Alternator bracket Accessory bracket F body water pump- $100 Accessory belt- $20 Griffin radiator- $180 GM oil filler neck-$10 ACDelco oil cap- $10 Oil Battery- $200 Front brake rebuild- $50 Stoptech brake lines- $130 Wiring Tune Start car Subsitutions LS6 camshaft- $160 Scram Speed alternator bracket/Gm LS1 bracket- $140 *Uses truck accessories Dayco Serpentine belt PN 5060685 *If using truck accessories Goodyear Serpentine belt PN 4060695 *If using LS1 idler pulley Corvette water pump PN 252-781- $100* Corvette harmonic balancer-$150* *These are only to be used in conjunction with each other, if truck accessories cannot be utilized. Victor Reinz valve cover gaskets PN 695-VS50250 - $30 Ebay Victor Reinz MLS head gaskets-$40x2= $80 http://www.jegs.com/i/Clevite/695/54441/10002/-1 Fel-Pro MLS intake manifold gaskets- $60 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-ms98016t/overview/make/chevrolet WIX 24766 Oil filter base- $40 http://www.amazon.com/Wix-24766-Filter-Mounting-Base/dp/B000CSIO1C OR Speedway Motors 720-1029 Oil filter base- $20 http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Single-Remote-Oil-Filter-Bracket-Vertical-Outlet-13-16-16-Thread,31462.html NA clutch/pressure plate Moroso LS oil pan PN 20140- $240 requires notching of tabs on subframe http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-20140 Moroso oil pickup PN 24050- $50, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-24050 Moroso 93152 oil pan gasket- $40 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-93152 Chevy windage tray PN NAL-12558253- $30, requires modification http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12558253 Vibrant 90 degree reinforced silicone elbow- $75 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-2748/overview/ K&N Air filter- $60 Warlbro 255lph fuel pump- $75 Ebay CX racing V mount radiator kit with 2 12” fans- $350 http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CXR&Product_Code=KIT-RAD-LS-Z32-RAD016&Category_Code=300ZX Stock LS wiring harness with PCM reflash from HP Tuners- $250 with new PCM http://www.wiringspecialties.com/prlsxtoz3230.html Resources 3V performance machine shop http://3vperformance.net/ LS6 cam spring guide Yellow= 02-04 ls6, 05-07 ls2, good for .551 lift..... Blue= 01 ls6 good for .525 lift. JShull's LQ4 swap http://www.tennspeed.net/forums/showthread.php?t=16532 Vode An’s single turbo LM4 swap http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109763-ls-powered-single-turbo-300zx-z32/ LS how-to http://ls1howto.com/ LOJ’s R&D http://www.300zxclub.com/showthread.php?t=219340 LSX differences http://www.nookandtranny.com/Info_LSx.html LT1 swap wiring http://lt1swap.com/ Track 300zx build http://community.rat...-300zx-project/ Alternator relocation http://www.kwikperf.com/lsx_alt_ps.html General LS swap http://www.dragzine....ide-the-basics/ 300zx hard data http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/FAQ/stats/mtjune91.html LS engine component specs http://www.smokemup.com/tech/ls1.php Camshaft basics http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/0607phr-camshaft-basics/ Camshaft overlap calculator http://www.wallaceracing.com/overlap-calc.php
  2. Hello! Looking for an N42, P90 or running l28et around Washington State. For an engine of same value; I have nearly a full LM7/CD009 swap, has a tune just starts and dies, r180/r200 1310 adapters (including new driveshaft and dirty Dingo engine mounts), decided to go back to the L28 instead (or another one of the other engines listed), more info if requested.
  3. This is a build thread to document the progress on a 1977 Datsun 280z 2+2. The previous owner had started stripping the car with intentions of restoring it but it ended up just sitting in a storage container. Before that, the car sat in someone's yard because of a lien against it and eventually a tree fell on the back portion busting out the rear glass and leaving a nice dent. Because the car has been sitting for so long, it has a bit of rust but nothing structural, like the frame rails, is damaged. We've never done any car restoration work before so any pointers would be appreciated. The long term goal is to swap a LS v8 engine (probably a 5.3L or 4.8L), upgrade the suspension and brakes, and have a solid daily drivable Datsun. Below is a list of what we have done to the car already: -Stripped the interior and exterior -removed the sound dampening material with some freeze spray and an air chisel -removed the engine, transmission, and engine bay wiring -misc metal work (cutting out the usual Z rust and welding in patch panels) -coated all internal frame rails and cavities with east-woods internal frame rail coating or POR-15 Here is what we started with. Inspiration / Goals Pulling the engine - relatively easy. When you don't have a load leveler, you just use screw drivers to make sure the chain doesn't slide! Hopefully, the steering rack will be salvageable. Cutting out the rust (floor pans, battery tray, and a big spot in the bumper area) Here's some of the welding / patch panels. We used weld through primer so the the welds won't rust through. Battery Compartment The front nose area - patched on both sides driver's side floorpan (not nearly as bad as passenger side just one patch panel near the seat mount). Passenger floorpan - we fabricated a floorpan that was mainly plug welded in place and also replaced a rusty spot in the trans tunnel. a shot of some POR-15 rust convertor work underneath the cowl panel. That brings the project up to present time, lots of work to do still.
  4. Hello everyone, my name is Brandon Henness. I've building a 240z for the past 7-8 years and I've finally "finished" it. I've made a build gallery on imgur if you're interested in checking it out. Otherwise here is a before and after of my car. It's swapped with an LS1 and a T56, upgraded suspension, big brakes, chromoly stub axles and CV shafts, self made PCB LED taillights, and much much more. I'm currently entered in SEMA BOTB Young Guns and I'm trying to accumulate some votes so I can win a spot at SEMA in 2021. You can vote for me by following this link, you can vote every 24hr until October 25th at midnight. Thanks Everyone!
  5. Hello! First post here, was wondering what everyone used for their fuel setup on their stock tanks. I have a '79 280zx with a 5.3 (l28 saved for a 280z), stuck on what way to get the ls fuel pump to the stock 280zx pickup tube in the tank. Would there be any safety issue if I use a kit like the one pictured and just clamp send/return from the tank directly to the Corvette style regulator, or would that work just fine? Any info would be great, thanks!
  6. Its time for some changes in my Z due to a knock in the bottom end. I have made the decisions to go the LS route with a manual trans. and i am doing research and getting all my ducks in a row start spending money. I have see sights were people are putting a 350Z/370Z CD009 trans behind there LS. I did some digging and found that a adapter plat is made by Collins performance technologies . The 350z has a great shifting trans and is much cheaper then a T56 and can take abuse, but I have never seen this combo in a S30 if you have even seen this please let me know of if you can think of any pluses or minuses to this idea chime in please! Thanks Will S. cd009 with adapter CD009 CD009 CD009 T56
  7. MY FIRST BUILD! 1976 Datson 280z pictures of how it sits now are posted below. LOOKING TOO... * Install chevy performance shop connect and cruise LS376/480 with 4L70E *280Z LS3 Swap Kit for engine and transmission. SUGGESTIONS? Can I buy this online, if so where? *Install suspension that can handle 475 LB-FT... I NEED SUGGESTIONS?? [NOT looking to spend over $1,500] *disc brake conversion [rear] Does anyone sell simple bolt on kit for this, if so where? *cheap paint job [$1k - $2k] *Dyno mat the car *Install 225-50-15 tires *Install aluminum drive shaft. Can I buy this online, if so where? *cheap cold air intake [$500 - $1k] Suggestions??? *Aluminum radiator with high performance 11” fans [2x] I live in the desert lol *Add 20 gallon fuel cell without cutting into the trunk where the spear goes [if possible] can I use the OEM??? Also need fuel pump Suggestions? PLEASE DONT GET CRAAAZZZY WITH COAST [I'M NOT RICH LOL] SERIOUSLY THOUGH
  8. Picked up this non-running '73 240Z in Wisconsin, it came with an R200 (which I had planned to use, but am now going Ford IRS 8.8) and a mess of other stock parts. It looked to be perfect for what I was building and after media blast it's quite solid other than floorboards so here we go. Parts already here -LS3 TR6060 dropout from a 2010 Camaro w/ 30k miles (lookup Midway Mustang Dewitt IA) -CXRacing LS swap kit w/ headers and y pipe -CXRacing Front LCAs and TC rods -CXRacing adjustable coilovers -T3 Rear LCAs -Silvermine billet front 5 lug hubs -Silvermine front wilwood brake kit -Zedd FIndings Floorboards Parts to order -T3 rear backing plates -T3 rear strut tubes -Ford Explorer 8.8 Diff -Z32 rear 5 lug hubs and brakes -Wheels/Tires, S71B ~17x11 (5.5 backspace) and 17x9.5 (4.9 backspace). 315/35R17, 275/40R17 -Flares (TBD, maybe SSWorxs???) My rear end will largely be based on Sunny Z's build. Digging through the wheel forums it looks like 5.5" backspace on the rear is doable, any advice here on whether 5.5 is too much? The T3 plates should put the wheel in the stock location.
  9. I finished my LS1 and 4l60e swap this spring into my s30. Have enjoyed driving it this year. My plan this winter was to pull the motor and trans and rebuild them. Both are bone stock. Motor is going to be completely rebuilt with c/h/i. While trans is getting built up to handle more power and fix failing clutches. That was until my friend at the junkyard called and said he has a ls3/6l80e with harness and pedal out of a 2013 Camaro ss with 50k miles. I can get it for about $4300. I know the ls3 is no issue, but I can’t find anyone who has put a 6l80e. How much bigger is it than a 4l80e? My LS1 has about 180k miles on it and by the time I rebuild both it and trans with a higher stall, I figure I will have about what the ls3 pull would cost me. My Z was originally an automatic, as was the donor z28 Camaro I took the original drivetrain from. I guess I could always convert to manual and run a t56. Is a 6l80e something I can message in, or is it a major surgery not worth messing with.
  10. MY FIRST BUILD! 1976 Datson 280z pictures of how it sits now are posted below. LOOKING TOO... * Install chevy performance shop connect and cruise LS376/480 with 4L70E *280Z LS3 Swap Kit for engine and transmission. SUGGESTIONS? Can I buy this online, if so where? *Install suspension that can handle 475 LB-FT... I NEED SUGGESTIONS?? [NOT looking to spend over $1,500] *disc brake conversion [rear] Does anyone sell simple bolt on kit for this, if so where? *cheap paint job [$1k - $2k] *Dyno mat the car *Install 225-50-15 tires *Install aluminum drive shaft. Can I buy this online, if so where? *cheap cold air intake [$500 - $1k] Suggestions??? *Aluminum radiator with high performance 11” fans [2x] I live in the desert lol *Add 20 gallon fuel cell without cutting into the trunk where the spear goes [if possible] can I use the OEM??? Also need fuel pump Suggestions? PLEASE DONT GET CRAAAZZZY WITH COAST [I'M NOT RICH LOL] SERIOUSLY THOUGH
  11. After 25 years of loyal service my SBC 350 is coming out, and replacing it will be a beautiful 5.3LS out of a 04 Yukon with 95K on the clock. The plans are simple for this build cam,and intake springs and rockers if needed other than that just the stuff it will take to fit and get running right. Have not made a choice on a trans yet would love a 6 speed but the T56 is out of my price range for now but who know buy the thing I get it done. I will keep you guy updated with my progress even though it will be at a snails pace. I am so pumped. Old Sbc new 5.3
  12. Welcome gentleman! (+Ladies?) I have had my '76 280Z for a few years now. Ran a bigger turbo L28 for all the time I've had it. I have recently restored the body and paint, I now need the heart and brains to go with this broad of mine. I have just pulled out my L28 and now need to have a few questions answered. Here is my situation: I can attain a full GTO/C5 LS2/T56 from salvage auction. Or I have a few local engine options I can go with. But I can't find a T56 for the life of me (in Canada, just over the pond from Detroit, A.K.A the gutter of Ontario) First question: I have taken the ECU box of out the drivers side and fed the engine harness through and have taken it all of from the engine. The passenger side however - do I take ALL of the harness out? The pass. side routes to the starter, body grounds, this junk fuse panel (for lights?) alternator, lights, turning signals, etc; do you guys take that all out and run a whole brand new harness from the passenger side connections under the glove box? I've heard of the EZwiring kit, is that something to run for the lights/signals with the LS? Secondly: if I were to go with the LS2 from the salvage car is there somebody or a company that revamps the harness for these engines? My goals for this swap are simple. Have a GOOD running engine and car in a whole. I don't need a wireless engine bay, just clean. I don't need over 450hp either. I want the engine and harness set up to be reliable as possible for I am wanting to go on long drives with this and drive it almost daily in good weather. I want everything I need (aside from odds and ends)before I start putting the LS in. I am going with the JCI mounts and drive shaft for what it's worth as well. I have a good amount of money set aside for this whole ordeal, it my 4th engine swap (rb20, SR engines previously) so I know how somethings are done,! but I do not want to cut any corners with this swap. I want things done right and done right the first time. I have also been looking at a million threads on this but I can't seem to find a few things I want to now. I already have more questions but I want to see the reply I get with this first. Thank you very much for your time and effort in advance. Cheers.
  13. Hey Everyone, After months and months of consideration, my 1976 280z is getting a new life. I've had this car for 2 or 3 years and have had it mostly running, but keeping finding small anomalies that turn into more and more fixes, and more questions about what the POs were trying to do with it. Well, my OCD has had enough and it's time for me to know every square inch of this car and have it the way I want it. I'd like to share this project no matter how it turns out, whether it helps someone else, or any of you all want to throw in your 2 cents - I would appreciate some veteran knowledge. Wants: 300+bhp, decent handling, decent brakes, keep it classy looking with exception to wide-body mostly for grip, mostly stock looking interior with sound deadening and added comfort, a much cleaner wiring layout that's color-blind friendly. To achieve all this, I was initially trying to decide between an S54(M3) or LS swap. After some research I'm definitely leaning towards LS with my skill level and budget. I know there's nothing original about it, but I have enough battles to fight - I'm going to keep this part easy. I'm still debating between the 280yz or Subtlez kit, and may likely do YZ rear and Subtlez front - I'm not sure I really want to be running 10-12" wheels square. Budget? I don't have a solid number, mainly because I will take my time to do this right. IF this were to creep over $20k, I'm doing something wrong basically. I know there will be "while you're in there" costs, like bushing kits etc. At the moment I'm just tearing it all down and organizing everything in a separate room with bags and labels. I have some unknowns at this point to digest until I get to them - how I want to remove the paint (grind, sandblast, etc), sound deadening (dry ice chisel, sandblast?), and any remaining adhesives/insulation (sandblast?, chemical?). I read sandblasting the exterior could cause some warping issues, but I haven't dug that deep on that specific subject yet. Anyway, I'll keep this updated, and hope to learn a lot and help anyone else doing this as well. Thanks
  14. I've never seen a thread where someone documented how hawks mounts actually mount up and are installed. So I took a bunch of pics when I did mine for all to enjoy. Chassis Mounts Here's how the mounts look in your hand. I'll explain what each location really does as we move along. And here is the back of the plate that you must weld onto the frame. As you can see, you must clearance the frame in order for the plate to site flush again your frame rails. But before we get into that, lets see how we locate the bracket (front to back). So here is the mount just resting on the frame rail, without the backing plate, You can see now that the lower location of the bracket lines up perfectly with the lower control arm bolt. Now all you have to do is loosen the LCA bolt, remove the nut, and thread the bolt into the bracket (yeah its threaded down there). Once you have it threaded in and snugged (not tight), you've got it located front to back. So then I attached the backing plate to the bracket and swung it back into place on the frame rail. Obviously the backing plate wont sit flush until you clearance the frame. So now, mark the front and back of the backing plate on the frame like so. Now remove the backing plate from the main bracket, also remove the main bracket from the LCA bolt. Place the backing plate on the frame and mark the hole locations. Note that they will be off because you still cant set the bracket flush. So here are my marks. Let me save you some time and suggest that you cut the frame like the pic below. I tried counterboring the holes to make room for the tacked on nuts, but its harder to get the position correct. Notching the frame is easier and much faster. Now you can check to see if the bracket will sit flush. It might not sit perfectly flush, but pretty close. Heres how mine looked. If its good enough for your taste, put the main bracket on the LCA bolt and bolt it back to the backing plate. This will ensure that when you weld it, it is in fact correctly positioned. You probably want to go ahead and grind off the paint on the frame as well, I dont have a pic of that but you get the idea. Now your ready to weld. Just for reference, the side of the frame rail is twice as thick as the top. So you can get a little more heat into that side. Here's my ugly flux core madness, but it will get the job done. The second one turned out much prettier after I found a rhythm. And here is the finished product. Engine Mounts The mounts on the motor are fairly straightforward but I figured I'd show them for documentation purposes. Here is where the original mount goes. And here is the backing plate for the new Hawks mount. Dont put that lower right bolt in though, that comes later with the actual mount. And here is it all bolted together. At this point, I dropped the motor in to position the trans mount. I'll write more on that in the Trans Mount section. Here, its just to show you how the motor sits in the bay.
  15. Hi everyone, I am new to the HybridZ community, but I have been a lurker for a while now. I've begun the planning phase of swapping a modified LS7 into my 240Z. I have most of the build planned out, but I am stuck on what the best option is for engine management. I know there has been success with both OEM computers as well as aftermarket systems. I suppose my question revolves around what is needed to successfully integrate an LS motor from an electronics standpoint, and are there any serious limitations on using an OEM Computer/Harness setup? Also, if I missed the relevant threads in my searches, I apologize and hope you all are kind enough to point me in the right direction. Thanks in Advance...
  16. Hey, This build topic will be constantly changing as I learn and take input from you guys and other sources. So please feel free to let me know if you have found a better way or part for where I am heading. The goal of this build will be to take my Z from it's stock daily driver status and take it to a completely rebuilt machine and return as my daily and occasional autoxer. I am planning on starting the rebuild in the beginning of the new year as I am currently in the middle of moving across country. So for now, it's planning... Engine/Intake/Exhaust LS based - I would like to start with a 6.0l, either iron or aluminum. I am waiting to see what I can find in the local scrap yards. EFI - I want the fuel economy and space savings that come with it. Heads/Cam/Rotating Assembly - The LS6 components look like they will be enough for me for now. Still need to choose headers, exhaust will be based on what is best for the engine/performance Drive Train/Suspension/Brakes/Wheels T-56 6 Speed No clutch setup chosen yet Considering full T3 suspension/coilovers/disk brakes/rear end conversion/5 lug conversion - Looking at the Q45 for the diff and other parts - whatever ends up being the strongest is what I will go for. T3 Front and Rear Sway bars Polyurethane in applicable areas I have several rims that I like, but I will go with the largest tires in the rear I can find...I have a lot of reading to do on that topic... Electrics/Gauges/Interior Glowshift Tinted 7 color gauges - Speedo, Tach, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Water Temp Full rewire kit - American Autowire Highway 22 circuit kit NRG Steering Wheel NRG or Sparco Seats Power window and locks - Spal kits Dash repaired using the how to on the forums Body/Exterior Body completely taken down to metal, cleaned and repaired. Lizard Skin 2 coat system and Dynamat then new carpet 20 gal fuel cell All new weather stripping HID headlight conversion Fender flares Skinny front bumper and air dam 240 style rear bumper I will paint it myself...not sure what color just yet This is what I have so far...So like I said, please feel free to throw in your two cents...Also, I have two 1977 280Zs...My daily is a 4 speed and I bought the other as a parts car (it's a 5 speed). So, when this is all said and done, I will have a lot of the stock parts I won't be needing like the engines and drivetrain/suspension components...So when the time comes I will be looking to get those out to those that need or want them...Thanks and I am looking forward to getting started and hearing back from you all... Volition
  17. I figured it was about time to start my thread on my 240Z that I've been building for a few years.... To start the background on the Z; I found it on ZCar.com in central Florida however it did live half it's life in Texas. Pictures looked pretty decent for a 72 and mostly unmolested. It had recent paint, classic hubcaps and upgraded 280Z block; 5spd and R200 diff transplant. After reviewing the pics and video, I made up my mind to commit to this one. The 175/70-14 donuts were so bad; they almost looked like original tires but what the hell, she was going to be a track car- right? I contacted the owner and found a flight on Jet Blue to Orlando for $99. I flew down on Saturday morning and my old boss picked me up at the Orlando airport and we drove over to check it out. Everything was as expected, nothing to make me fly back to Charlotte today. I did cut some of the fuel line and re-tighten some of the clamps just in case. Paid the guy and drove off to Charlotte. Car ran great up to Columbia where I stopped to see family and take a break from the drive. The biggest problem was the exhaust leak but with both windows down, wasn't too bad ~ Hit the house about midnight that night but she ran great and no issues. I drove her for about a year before the planning stages began. My last 240Z I built was 12:1 high compression L28 that I built back in 93 with forged pistons, floating pins; cam and all the fixins... L28's are pretty good but have limits and are still iron blocks. Looking at other alternatives; I started looking at RB swaps. The biggest issue I found was going to get parts for them, but wasn't a huge issue considering our global transportation system and JDM suppliers on the west coast. You can get a RB engine and wiring harness pretty decent price but then you want to get bigger turbo (s) and all the fixins...Some say the RB26 has too much power and RB25 is better...both can put out gobs of power and take your paycheck just as easy as making that power. There's some good suppliers of RB swaps these days too like McKinney. Then I started looking at VQ swaps like A Hoke. I like the idea of staying in the family but it wasn't that important- Weight and power were the main requirements. There were some VQ swaps out there that look pretty good but then I started looking at the power and decided no VQ35. Hmmm, what about VQ37? still pretty new and prices were still pretty high for a VQ37 with tranny and harness. I started to think about the old american love of sticking a V8 in a small foreign car like Carol Shelby. Why not? The SCARAB was our answer to this question. But the early generation small block engines were heavy and not what I was looking for in a car to track. After seeing Dave Palarmo's LS1 240Z at the 2008 ZCON @ mid-ohio I thought that was a nice setup. Doing some research on it; the LS engine is a few pounds different than the L28. Buying a LS1/T-56 combo was easy to come by but many of them have oil issues (lack of owner responsibilities in changing the oil) and ragged out / tranny issues with hard shifting over 80K+ miles on most of the combo's. Started looking at the various LS engines and options. The F-Body SS Camaro's and Firechickens were around and running car would cost about 4-6K depending on the condition. Better the condition the better the care I thought...THen started looking at wrecked GTO's for LS2 engines with lower miles. About the same in price. I put the word out and found an LS6 at the right price. A fellow track junkie and known around the circles; I was pleased to find this beast with about 4800 miles on it and already had a hot cam installed. So off to the rodeo I went. I started to strip down the Z and for the past three years- due to three crazy kids, wife and job...I'm "almost done!" kind of...at this point I'm just ready to get her started and shake out a few things- mainly what is left to do: Run brake lines (MC to wheels all aorund) Finish fuel lines (today?!?) Dash decision - Aluminum or stock (going twords aluminum to just do it...) wire it up Radiator Exhaust Battery wires THE LIST [Drivetrain] LS6 Engine - Fuel Injected with cable throttle body. T-56 Magnum- Enough to hold 600 HP. - Stock will not work (for long) Q45 / CV shafts. Driveshaft shop Aluminum driveshaft DXD dual friction clutch Interior Roll bar Auto-Meter guages Start switch Battery relocation / lighter battery Exterior ZG flares BRE spoiler [Chassis] Bad Dog Racing full frame rails New floor pans Stripped and painted underpan Stripped and painted front clip [Fuel] Fuel cell - 16 gal Summit circle track Russell Fittings Bosch 44 fuel pump Speedway LS conversion regulator For now- stock fuel rail [suspension] TTT rear lower control arms Coilovers - Koni Shocks Quick steering couplers / bump steer spacers TTT T/C rods TTT Lower Control Arms [brakes] AZC Wilwood on all 4 corners (6/4). Heavy Duty Rotors SS Lines all around Wilwood 1" MC 280Z Booster Pics attached... Thanks to Matt Isbel and Mike Kelly for inspiration as well as the countless hours on HYBRIDZ allowing me to second guess everything and upgrade upgrade upgrade... This is my first real track car so I'm sure I've screwed up somewhere- feel free to tell me -much of this has been a great learning experience from restoring cars since I was a kid helping my Dad to what I've built to date. So far I'm really happy and wish I could be ready for ZDAYZ but looks like that's out this year- Hope to get her to CMP this summer... Right now, I'd like feedback on the fuel setup - how much fuel starvation will I have and do I need to sump it? Any concerns with my setup like heat soak or fuel starvation issues I can avoid? Thanks in advance for the feedback
  18. hey guys i'v been looking on line for answers to solve my sloppy rear suspension, i have the tokico lowering kit 'springs and blue shocks.' i have a 5.3 lm7 with a saginaw 4 speed trans. stripped interior ' no dash' and new 195/70r14 tires, and new poly bushings all around. the set up feels alright when im cruising around and in straight lines but when i start going 65ish mph through a long fast turn i feel the rear wanting to spin. 1) I wonder if my car is unbalanced since i have the v8 up front and only the fuel tank in the back?i did position the engine as close to the fire wall as possible when i made my motor mounts. 2) And if its not because of weight distribution is it because i dont have the correct spring rates for my set up? what would you recommend on the springs F and R ?
  19. I bought a 1977 280Z off my neighbor for $400 garage kept for 20 years when he stopped driving it due to him becoming handicapped. Been driving it for a while, but I do want to do an engine swap on it. I hear alot about these LS1, LS2, LS6's being good also pretty easy being that holley makes kits for them. My friend told me to put an engine from a 90-95 300zx either single turbo, twin turbo, or non turbo. He also suggested a turbo 3000cc or an F20c. I guess what i'm asking is for the more senior car men to give me suggestions on what I will give me the most bang for my buck. Im open to all suggestions of other engines.
  20. aveloz

    My 5.3 Zx

    From the album: 5.3 v8 280zx

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