stagefumer11

ah., well im not doing them up tight, They actually break at the base of the barb. when installed. It is at ramdom. my last one was 6 months ago. YOu will find two indentations on the side of the injector at the base of the barb. thats where they start leaking from. My last one Which is still in the car is at the bast of the barb not at the indentations.

Thanks for the Replys Greatly Apericated. Question again, Im currently going Through a large amount of injectors, It seems the base of the injector stalk always seem to crack. has this been knowen to be common ? im getting sick Of trying to sorse injectors for the old girl. Im presuming its because of age and maybe fuel pressure but thats the only thing that seems to blow them. What can i use that a similar rating, or even 260cc's ect, I remind you this is in New zealand where anything l28 is impossible to get.

can someone confum, L28e injector size is 185cc's ?

Well looks like they are high empidance, Great my luck, Will change them back tomorrow. yay! maybe ill have a late night now. Update:: Swaped back in the old injectors in 40 minutes. . Gained alot of power. and boost resonse is alot smoother.

ah, unusuall., maybe explains why all of a suddon my factory rev counter died last night. Factory rated injectors were at 3 ohms. And i know of 2 other l20et's running rb20det injectors. But id like to know what the rb20det ones are rated at, And im sure it may explain why i had to tighten my AFM to run them on boost. they are fine off boost. But now after 1 week the missing has come back.

""waves"" l20et owner here. OK All of the equipment you have will work and run on the l28e Fine. Injectors on a l20et are a factory 185cc. same rating as the non turbo l28. The only diffrence between the Turbo afm and the n/a afm is the spring tension and and the turbo has a Air temp sensor installed "boltin" If you need bigger injectors cheep, Rb20det ones bolt right in, And with tunning of the afm its runs great. Just the swap i had done on my l20et The l20et in factory form does make 145hp. Nothing great, sluggy as hell. But with mine i made 150hp at the wheels on 8psi, That was with a intercooler. Fuel pump and exhasut/intake. Not the injectors.

ah. But if i back the AFM tention off anymore than it is, It will not rev when in boost, It just breaks down. Which is surprising. I had similar problems with the factory injectors and installing a N/a Afm Off a l20e. I had to install my Airtemp sensor tho. The N/a tention was way off compared to the Turbo afm. Came right with the Right tenstion. MY question is. BAcking it off 30% or so. Whould induse overfuling missing. How can i over come this ?

Installing the injectors were a easy task and low imediance, This is on a l20et btw, Now in theroy you detenion the AFm By 10 teeth or so, This leans the mixture out since you have more CC's in my example 270cc's over the factory 185's Ran the standard tention and it idled fine smooth as. Suprising really Detentiond the AFm, and when hitting any kind off boost it just broke down, Decided to detention it some more, And it got worse,. After scrathing my head, I have to tighten it 50% or so to be able to run boost. Its not pinging ect runs great. Possible needs a little bit of leaning out. But in my method hasnt it been reversed ? Im am confused on this matter.

Ah, thats the same one my l20et uses.

As above. Its hard to explain what its really doing, i can really on tell my story and what ive tryed and soforth, so see how it goes.. ITs started with comming home after a long day at work..... Spent half a hour got changed and went out. Now i drove the skyline home. and it was running sweet as. Now after hoping back in. No go. it seemed it didnt want to even bite on cranking. It was getting spark and getting fuel. (by the looks of it). After 30mins of waiting. she seem'd to of went. GREAT! 40 mintues later of driving. She started to break down. Missing. Coughing. It started with a bit of a miss/stumble on boost. (6psi atm) backing off the throttle and back on cured it. Then it became progressivly worse. Light throttle Intoduced large amounts of missing. And over the cause of 3km it wouldnt of even idle. TRying to get up a hill was entertaining. SO i was sitting on the side of the road in pitch back looking around my engine bay with my little pen with a light on the back of it. And noticed my water temp sensor plug had one of the terminals off, inside the plug hosing. Here's me thinking "Yippie" She will go now. Which i was right. Sort of. Still missed only running on 5 cylinders. This got me able to drop this off at a Friends aunty's place so i can come back for it. and so she was safe. Next day........... **ding** Had a look. By the looks on every plug. Overfuling. they were all foued and coated in fuel. Cleening them made no improvement in running. as well not it wont even idle. Ive replaced. "Water temp sensor", AFM, FPR, dizzy cap. Check fuel pump. and line blockages. Spark is strong and timing is fine. The top of number 5 injector is now leaking, yet again i had only just replaced it. Its now the point of. no matter what i do the plugs foul. Cleen them, bang foul. Any idea's ? Its now at the point of. I replaced the FPR 2 nights ago. And the fuel lines seemed to of primed alot better than the other Fpr did. But now my Fuel pump is pulsating. Its getting a perminant 12v sorce from the battery and is Switched throuh a Relay thats trigured off the car alarm. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

As above. Its hard to explain what its really doing, i can really on tell my story and what ive tryed and soforth, so see how it goes.. ITs started with comming home after a long day at work..... Spent half a hour got changed and went out. Now i drove the skyline home. and it was running sweet as. Now after hoping back in. No go. it seemed it didnt want to even bite on cranking. It was getting spark and getting fuel. (by the looks of it). After 30mins of waiting. she seem'd to of went. GREAT! 40 mintues later of driving. She started to break down. Missing. Coughing. It started with a bit of a miss/stumble on boost. (6psi atm) backing off the throttle and back on cured it. Then it became progressivly worse. Light throttle Intoduced large amounts of missing. And over the cause of 3km it wouldnt of even idle. TRying to get up a hill was entertaining. SO i was sitting on the side of the road in pitch back looking around my engine bay with my little pen with a light on the back of it. And noticed my water temp sensor plug had one of the terminals off, inside the plug hosing. Here's me thinking "Yippie" She will go now. Which i was right. Sort of. Still missed only running on 5 cylinders. This got me able to drop this off at a Friends aunty's place so i can come back for it. and so she was safe. Next day........... **ding** Had a look. By the looks on every plug. Overfuling. they were all foued and coated in fuel. Cleening them made no improvement in running. as well not it wont even idle. Ive replaced. "Water temp sensor", AFM, FPR, dizzy cap. Check fuel pump. and line blockages. Spark is strong and timing is fine. The top of number 5 injector is now leaking, yet again i had only just replaced it. Its now the point of. no matter what i do the plugs foul. Cleen them, bang foul. Any idea's ? Its now at the point of. I replaced the FPR 2 nights ago. And the fuel lines seemed to of primed alot better than the other Fpr did. But now my Fuel pump is pulsating. Its getting a perminant 12v sorce from the battery and is Switched throuh a Relay thats trigured off the car alarm.

I instaled my Spring system backonto the wastegate and no improvement. But now the old girl os off the road. as it is over fueling madly and wont rev. And the fact now someone drove into the back off it, while it was parked. off the street, down a long drive way

i think they are Oring, but im sure i can clamp a hose onto the Ends.

Evening all. Im at the point of my Upgrading that i do wish to go larger in injecotrs sizing. I currently have a HR30 Skyline Coupe with a L20et. FActory the inectors are 185cc. which is on the small side for turbo Aplications. Rb20det injectors are 270cc. and i can get 6 for free. My questions are How simple is it to swap these injectors onto a L fuel rail, Currently my standard injecors have been modified with hose clamps since the Barbs went holding. If that can help me, im unsure. Ive come to the point where i am sick of replacing injectors because the Top sections always seem to start leaking. My car has simple mods. with a Celica intercooler in Fmic Setup. Rebuild head. a Large bosh fuel pump. 2.5" exhasut. Ive been running 10psi on the factory turbo and in some instances up to 15psi. with no probllems. I guess my last question is, I do know of a person who has done this swap. installed them (dont know what was involved as he will not give details) And ran fine. Then from someone else who did it, and his l20et wouldnt run on them. Which makes me think how would i go about tunning my AFM to work with the extra 100cc's ?

ah thanks. lucky i found a L20a in a Larule at the local Wreckers. Grabed a AFM and Dizzy cap and Sensor. but didnt fix my problems,

Due to the lack of availibility of parts for L motors here. i need to know asap what WAter temp Sensors work on a L20et. same as a L20a. do most other L serries Temp sensor's work ? or something from another Vehical.

Ive just installed a Blitz manual Boost controler. which is great. large Robust. and a F*Cken pain in the but. I currently had a Threaded Acuator Arm which was great for running 8psi but anything higher and the travel was gone. and the Wastgate flap didnt open far enough causing the boost to creep. So i installed/borrowed a blitz boost controller. I unwound my acuator arm untill their was a slight pretension on the wastegate arm. and installed the contorller. (bleed vavle). Blow me down, it took me 1 hour to get the dam thing to do 9psi. 4 complete turns, and 15psi. 3 turns 6psi. 3.5 turns 15psi. and one click back from 3.5 turns and its 9psi. "sigh". I was thinking i had it right and went for a drive. Then this happend. 2nd Gear 9psi. 3rd gear 12psi, 4th gear 15psi. :S It was constintly doing this, no matter what. I got pissed off, and went home. Now this morning didnt touch a thing and the dam thing only ran 6psi and 10 minites later 15psi. What the hell is going on!?!? i never had this much problems with a cheep bleed vavle compared to a expensive one.

ka24de

Drax is corrent, the l20et is based off the l20a design, Factory they produced 145hp at the flywheel which is about the same as the l28e. In factory form they are quite weasy but loved to rev. but with minimal mods seem to wake up well, i do highly recomend moving your AFM onto the front of the Turbo intake, i gained alot of torque and had a much smooth power band and improved throttle response Im planing on a Rb20det turbo upgrade to replace the 20 year old factory turbo, and rb20det injectors. so im thinking 140rwkw is achevible

ah, nothing like a daily drivable race car, I used to be in wellington but currently moved up to auckland, and i have a R30 /turbo couoe

ahahhhh good to see another NZer' have you talked to rob at rips yet, i do know he isnt keen on giving out information yet on the rb30det as it is he "special" motor. IF you are requiring a head check All nissan parts oh hutt park road, Seview. Not cheep tho. Also look around on the SDu forums, http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz and see what you can find also.

Its the rod oil splashers, throws the oil up under the pistons

After 2 years it was about time i got the old girl dynoed, Produced,. 109rwkw, aka 148RW Hp, and 350Nm of torque on only 8psi. Mods are 2.5"exhaust. Celica intercooler, Factory turbo. Merc V8 fuel pump. and RAcepro B.ov. I was aiming for 120rwkw, but the turbo was limiting, as it will grind anything over 10psi

intresting how you say they are needed, i was getting excessive blowby and removed my pcv valve system, I still have the hose hooked up that runs under the intake manifold. and have a filter on the rocker cover.

When using .8 gap on my Ngk's Bp5ey's at 10psi my spark gets blowen out. Now ive gaped them to .6 and it ran to 18psi fine (as a test)....... Now id presume this is to weak of spark?, i have a Nice Bosh GT40R Coil, new leads plugs. Now i cannot get a new Dizzy cap and rotor which i guess i badly need. Would also bad grounding to the block cause this ?