Niku-Sama

i am resurecting this. i changed the distributer and everything and the problem is still there, it was acually really bad today. i did some more testing to see what causes it and it seems to be at random. 2-3k rpm, any speed, will happen maintaining speed or accelerating, happens when sitting still revving out of gear, most noticably when trying to get and hold it to 2000 rpm. i have checked Vaccum hoses, TPS, timing, MAF majority of the fuel related and ignition related connector under the hood. i popped the MAF open again to see if their was moisture in there and it was bone dry. had it open before to test air temp. i havent changed the water temp sensor yet (CHTS equivalent) i donno i am kinda thinkin fuel related. the only thing left to adjust is the air screw on the MAF before i go hunting at injector/pumps is it possible that the MAF air screw thingy needs to be re adjusted? in is richer out is leaner right?

hmm, looks like i am not going to be able to run it, using Vista 64bit and i am getting errors from the fact i am running 64bit and not 32bit. oh well. i would try it on another computer but that would be my laptop and its also running vista 64bit

i can get some big heatshrink while i am at frys

i cant find any thing other than "look this car is fast" or "how fast should this car be" or something like that. i take it FAST stands for something but i cant figure it out. the last 6 are 117479 looking at bleach's ZXR list its alot earlier than any of those

yea thats what i was thinkin, makin my own, but if i cant get gold is brass better than regular? and also solder and crimp/clamp and not just crimp/clamp on battery cable connectors right?

meh for $189 i'll get something a little more reputable

yea lemme know about that, it would help me with my vaccum mess if its just as good or better. i wish my PO was just smart, instead he was MR STP and thought the rist fix in the spray cans was all you needed to fix rust....for ever....thankfully there isnt much on there

i was wondering where i could compare vin numbers to get a general idea of how early my '79 is too, its got alot of hold over stuff from the later s30's

i just dont wanna have a battery spider i guess i will when i replace the battery and the cables having 2 black cables gets confusing some times. brass battery terminals any better for the battery cables than regular terminals?

i'll take a look see, i'm gonna replace the distributer any way, the rotor has a lot of play from left to right and twisting before it hits the vaccum advance or the other side

so wiat, he was pulling the vaccum for the ignition from the brake booster and it had more umps at the top end?

alright i think i found the awnser to a new problem that got worse recently. little background, this is on an EARLY '79 it has circulating ball power steering instead of rack and pinion, no O2 but has EGR and then some other odd stuff. any way lately in the past oh, week and a half. if i am going down the road at about 2000 rpm its like the power cuts for just half a seccond and some times i can feel it in the car slowing down and some times i just see it in the tach but its there, today i checked things over and everything looks good except the rotor in the distributer has alot of play before it hits the vaccum advance or before it stops the other way, and i always thought the module on the side was a bit.....iffy (cant remember the name of it) any way a few weeks ago i pulled a whole distributer in beautiful condition out of an 84' maxima wagon along with some other very nice condition peices and i was wondering if i could just swap them, i have gone over and checked everything on this distributer and its good to go. the only thing that concerns me is the module on the side. can i use this distributer with out swapping the box on the side? the 84 has the bladed (male) T connector on the top, same as my 79 but it has an extra one on the side that looks like the injector connector. i was wondering if i could run it in my 79 with out connecting that extra plug on the side because well, i dont have that connector on my car.

would he be just as well off with a 2+2 flywheel too? and also hows that schmucks clutch holding up? low cost i bet?

for memory power i used the ciggerette light lead and grounded the whole head unit seperatly. for key on power i am using the factory harness which in a 79 since it has a manual memory (or mechanical buttons to move the dial) there was only 12v when the key was ON off of the factory harness. i'm gonna go out and wire up the speakers to the factory harness for now so theres something to listen to in the car.

i just thought i would infrom that i got it in, wired up and its workin just as it did in the maxima. 14.2V idle or high revs, light on, heater on wipers going and brake lights on drop it down to ~13.9V. it may not be that low because i am just going on the guage in the car when i do that, i was the only one home i couldnt get any thing to stay on the brakes. battery is a little old and time for a new one soon (leakin) i'll post pics of it in the car soon and some pictures of the wiring i did. since it was a ribbed belt i swapped the pulley with one of similar size but a V belt. i belive it came off of a Delco Remmy GM alternator, perfect size and fit on the stud no problem spacing came out to be near perfect, belt is straight, all the old bolts work on the new alternator. only thing i was majorly concenerd about was the slide bracket to adjust the tension on the belt. since its a smaller pulley i had to slide the alternator further away from the engine to tighten it up but it did before i ran out of space on the bracket.

there isnt any sort of switched power i can use from within the car? the head unit has no issues being on the harness power i just need to do something with the amp and i want to try and get some sort of power source thats on when the key is on so if something happens my amp doesent drain my battery because for one reason or another it didnt shut off with the head unit.

so i am working on the elctrical system getting some of the things figured out and taken care of. i did my best to fix the wiring that circuit city did with the stereo, cleaned it up some but i think later on i may just go in and swap the connector out to a newer nissan connector and just be done with the whole thing. i have the stereo hooked up it turns on and keeps time now and it shouldnt come on by it self (heatshink is god) but i dont have the speakers hooked up yet. i little while ago i got a 2 channel speaker amp it pulls a max of 20 amps. the head unit pulls a max of 10 amps and i was wondering if it was possible to power it off the stereo harness 12v. heres the amp specs: Pioneer GM-x332 http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Amplifiers/Other/GM-X332?tab=B dont worry i only spent $15 on it. heres the head unit: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Support/CarAudioVideo/Source/CD-Players/DEH-P3800MP and speakers (for now): x2 http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Products/CarAudioVideo/Speakers/G-Series/TS-G1642R i had to make my own speaker adaptors out of lexan for the speakers to fit in the stock location

yea it threw me off too, but it looks like it would fit really easily though

are your injectors bleeding horrbly from the body seems too?

i'd probally go VG33ER or go super crazy stupid on some sort of L seires engine with one or two turbos or mabe go all out on N/A. either way i would get another car to do it with. my engine is in too gooda shape to mess with right now. only minor seepage right now. plus the cash factor

your gears are really short arent they?

i've been looking but i cant seem to hit the right string to get what i am lookin for. yours isnt too bad but its also going to be hard to tell between a 2 seater Z and a 2+2 ZX. new wheels are further down the road 15's or 16's but my iron crosses are in pretty goos shape, just need a repainting. theyre straight and have few weights on em but i think thats attributed to cheepo tires. i think the dude said they were costco tires but i blew it off because he was lieing through his teeth that they were new. gonna need new ones by the end of summer. you forgot the parrot SQUAK! at the begining edit: i'm not going to have this problem on a s130 and HP struts am i? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121496

alright well hows the clearence on the tokico springs compared to normal height? like the distance from the bottom of the pinch weld to the ground behind the wheel well?

not a "what would you do" because its fun or you want to add performance...no its more like, both are time for replacment and you only have enough cash for one or another. both are in equal....disarray. heres the run down. as of now both are mostly stock. Exhaust is old and starting to rust through, have a minor exhaust leak some where down the line, not the gasket though but i would replace the intake/exhaust any way so i get it out of the way. shotty work from some one in the past, i cant tall if its the stock system hacked up or a crappy newer setup that is still rather old suspension is just as much of a problem, all 4 corners are shot and sagging badly, having bottoming out problems on worn out stock suspension (and thats saying something) i just rolled over 87000 miles and i am sure alot of time was spent sitting arround. body roll is getting worse, bushings are oh except its time for control arm bushings and shock mounts in the rear, would probally do all 4 though. what i would replace either or with is 6 - 1 header, 2 1/4 inch header out the back, cat is gone already, a decent muffler.....mostlikely a tanabe medallion. i hear theyre good performers and arent pissed off angry bee sounding and quieter than most. or tokico springs and HP struts that some one is parting out on another board start the conversion to urethane bushings when i replace the control arm bushings. its a newer set, i guess it got into a wreck shortly after they were installed. both are going to cost roughly the same.

hrmm no periods, go to "carter" high school did we? i have to say though 2000 rpm is half of what i get when cold. if i am lucky my car will idle at arround 1000 cold and drops to 750 warm. occasionally if i drive the piss out of it it'll go up a little but it eventually comes back down. this is gonna sound odd because its a WHOLE different car but my 87 maxima did this hesitation thing, i changed O2 and CHTS (cylinder head temp sensor) and it went away. as for the noise its a noisy engine, mine drives me nuts because i hear really well and i can hear the ticking from inside the car while i am driving. as long as there arent any holes in the exaust and the intake/exhaust gasket is ok i wouldnt worry. also i have herd off and on some times the shorty tubes can cause interesting problems which requires adjustments to the AFM and other such things. all in all it sounds like you need to tweak a few settings and check for vaccum leaks. i bought mine from a crazy owner in grants pass and he was MR STP, additive everything, he even used waterpump lube and WAY too much of it. made the coolant look as if it had a blown headgasket, but it was just a buncha gunk. he had things all outa wack and it took some time to get it back to the way it shoulda been...still not all there though