Niku-Sama

what manual calls it the air induction valve case? hayes, chiltons or factory service?

the dash is different in this car. what other 280's has a dash like that, i would definitly do a swap for something like that

some harbor freight stuff is alright, some is complete crap. my pop and i got a regular wire welder and its ok for what we paid for it ($100) but the drill press is crap, any resistance and the belts will slip like mad

i depends, mine would stay at about 1500-1700 rpm untill i came to a complete stop. after asjusting it it would come down normally but before if you were coasting down a hill it wouldnt come down for any thing. it was something i noticed before i bought the car but having a similar problem with the BCDD on a maxima i knew how to fix it. was a good haggling point

i agree with the proper tune as i was one of those. when i got my car the AFM was leaned out almost all the way the timing was off the BCDD was adjusted improperly and had all sorts of vaccum leaks, the guy acually used water pump lube and it make the coolant look as if the headgasket had blown but after some through cleaning of connectors and cooling system, replacment of some parts (filters, sparkplugs), tweaking things back to normal (legenthy process) it runs a whole lot better than when i bought it from Mr.STP. as for the EGR circuit it would always start missing when it warmed up so i just took the BPT out and plugged the vaccum that would go to it.

i'm having a problem finding speakers that are a direct fit to replace the factory speakers behind the doors. i know if you use the plastic speaker things that some cars (including mine) came with they are 4 1/2 inch speakers but i had a little prolblem with a certian dog chewing the hell out of one and breaking this ♥♥♥♥ out of the infiniti kappa speaker i had in it. i asked for some pioneer 6 1/2 inch (yea i know infiniti to pioneer) speakers because everything says they will fit where the factories were behind the door but they dont. i dont want to drill into the car and i also dont have enough material to drill into with the pioneers because the mounts only barely make it on all 4. these are what i got: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSG1642/Pioneer-TS-G1642R.html?tp=94 i guess theyre 6 3/4 mount pretty lame i know but does any one know of any thing that will direct fit or have some sort of solution for using the factory spot for speakers? i guess i'll drill if i absoutly have too but its definitly a last resort

you've got to be shitting me, gettin me all excited that there is some one within driving distance that might have some parts and its a fuckin year old thread....DAMNIT

i would scour other datsun cars as well as subaru and toyota cars. they're your best bet but i cant think of any off of the top of my head

are you wondering what other cars ignitors would work you mean?

eh? i was talking about thunder39's heavy white smoke but year, not looking foreward on doing a headgasket on my daily driver, of course it would be easier if my daily driver wasnt a 79 280zx....one of the funky early ones with some werido factory leftover parts.

hrmm head gasket, fun!

alright i need something else if some one can provide. i need the dirmensions of the alternator pulley. outer and inner where the stud comes through. i have been trying for the past couple of weeks to pull the pulley off of the '87 alternator and its just not going any where and i am about to cut it off. but i am sitting here thinking how hard this one is going to be and trying to get an old 30 year old rusted crusty pulley off the old alternator is going to be. i want to keep it kind of intact incase something happens. the junkyard has an old pickup bed FULL of old pulleys so i might be able to find a suitable one there

yea mine was adjusted way lean when i got the car, i thought the PO did it but it happened again so it must be from vibration, any way when it would lean out it would idle fine but it would bump alot. alomst constantly. now it only bumps now and again which could be caused by my weak charging system a bad water temp sensor or valve timing

theres a cheepo HL 510 near by for $350, ad says runs good but needs head gasket, not much else. any way i was thinkin my pop and i could do one last project before i moved away and i would like to do a car i want instead of the other way arround and i was thinkin of doing it up as a old school japanese rod. i'm not sure if the one in the ad is a liftback but heres an idea of what one looks like because i know HL 510's arent common http://adclassix.com/images/78datsun510hatchback.jpg its got that kind of old school japanese look, its one of those odd styled cars you dont see very often any more, the kind you might see at japanese nolstalgic or something that would be bad ass lowered a bit with a mean rake and loud as hell for the size it is. any way are there any people on here that have some bad ass L20b's? i'm trying to get an idea, i'm not set in stone with this car we may do something else but its more of a possibility than the others we've seen

i say KA24 or L20b KA because my girlfriends bro trashed his hard body and the engine still ran well, the transmission and everything else was another story (missing teeth, yeesh) L20b for familiarties sake, your used to inline 6 z engines? just chop 2 cylinders off i was acually just about to post a thread askin about an L20b

are you able to adjust the AFM at all? i know it's only a small adjustment but it helps, trust me

the 81's bucket seats dont have any tears in them and are more cushony than the old ones, when i pulled the seats i did find a bolt, it was about an inch and a half long and it wasnt broken. i cant find where it came from though.

i'm not going to trash them but i dont want to light them on fire trying to weld it, i have had it happen already. theyre going up on craigslist or theyre going to be traded off to some one who wants them for parts or for them to fix at the local club if they want em. either way they need reupholstering, the fuzzy is all worn off and the fabric is shot to ♥♥♥♥. typical 30 year old seats i'll check into this bolt, i dont have a autozone here to check the threads but i'll manage. i went to the junkyard and thankfully the seats out of the 81 were still there, were once read buckets seats, horribly faded but no tears and one of the side bolsters were gone and flappy so i brought em home, and cleaned them and then got into the seat it self to fix the bolster the best i could with out taking the cover off, the guts of this seat were hella rusty, EVEN INSIDE THE THING. but while i was there i noticed no one had taken the heated pt cruiser seats so i got to thinkin, i took the funky stuff off the bottom of the sear and theres a nice wide metal plate to mount rails on and the stock placment of the rails was about 15" from bolt hole to bolt hole, pretty close to a z, so i took it over and popped it ino the yard car and it fits barely, the headrest comes awfully close to the roof, i am worried about sitting in it if i'll hit the roof (i'm 6'6" tall) and i am worried about the width, it looks like i might have a problem with the trim peices rubbing on the sills and/or the cushons preventing me from moving the seat at all. the seat was power up and down but i would remove that but it was manual front to back. mmm seat heater, well if i have some money later on this month i am gonna pick em up $20 a pair for seats, any pair they dont care they say.

because the rest of the seat is done, and its just a wirewelder from harbor freight, not very accurate good for welding brackets on or rails together, making new teeth isnt something i think i can do. i did think about that though

i had found this but alot of the information is for s30 cars and their brackets and mounts seem WAY different

i'd stick to nissan/datsun engines. RB VQ VGxxDE. i personally would like a VG33ER for xmas

so of course my seat broke, the back of the driver seat wont stay clicked in at any normal up and down spot, it'll click in at almost lying down and completely flat, nothing higher than that. i was going to head to the junkyard and get the red bucket seats that were there the last time i was there (not pretty but functional seats) i was wondering what other options, preferably junkyard, are open to use. i already know about the CRX seats, any thing else? a little bit of modification to the seat is ok but i am not drilling into the car and i have 3 seat rails, the 2 in the car already and a seccond driver seat rail. i have a wire welder too, its ok for this sort of thing, i tried fabing up some subaru seats and i got the rails on it nodified but i forgot one rail was lower than another so that was the end of that.

you know i got to thinkin about that and i pulled the old radio out and i went dur, it doesent...or mine atleast didnt need a constant voltage because th presets were manual, you press the button (hella hard i might add) and it manualls moves the dial to the spot on the band

this doesent work with my '79, there is a blue with red stripe wire but it has no constant voltage to it with the car off. the only constant i found was the ciggerette lighter, but ground it seperatly.

BCDD is adjustable, it shows how it is in hayes manuals but i would trust the FSM over the hayes. i had to adjust mine, the hanging at 2000 rpm was just not right. i think some one had adjusted it to lessen the vaccum so the idle would stay up and not die when it was cold. i think its lessen i cant remember its been a while since i have done this. either way when i adjusted it just enough so that no matter the speed i drive its drops down to idle the car ran alot better and my milage went up a bit. i just thought i would toss that out there, i am running no cat and no EGR (its there its not hooked up) and i have always gotten popping out of my exhaust. the dieing when cold was fixed with a valve cover gasket (sizable leak) other vaccum leaks fixed and a new coil. after 30 years the coil couldnt hand out the juice when it was cold